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Old 04-11-2012, 08:01 PM   #16
Warney
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaseyJones View Post
I'd love one, too - but they're spendy; they're yesterday's technology (rear drums and stamped-steel wheels) and frankly, other scoots of that engine size give a better riding experience for much less money.

So...much as I love the style, unless a BR drops into my lap, I'll content myself with a RucKlone.

I just wish it would go just a little faster...and that I could have more confidence in running it WOT for long periods.
You own an R1200GS and think a Honda Big Ruckus is spendy?
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:12 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by wanna bECO View Post
great report... what did u pay
$1455 from Motobuys.

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Originally Posted by deezildennis View Post
Are you able to put it up at night or do you have to store it outside?
Outside parking lot at my apartment building. I have a cover and disc lock alarm. However, seems I might have some issue to handle with my building manager regarding parking motorcycles in parking spaces.

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Originally Posted by deezildennis View Post
Can you adjust that side box to get it to close better?
I hope I can. It looks like it's completely plastic, so I think I can form it into shape properly with a heat gun. The top of the box is slightly warped, so the cover doesn't want to sit properly where the lock engages. So it slips looks and the thing pops open. So far, not once today, and I've done some hard riding today. Maybe it's already coming around. PEACE.
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:15 PM   #18
ABritOnMaui
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It 'should' be on this side . In theory it is to the left of the auto enricher. I think I see it. It should be a slightly recessed flathead screw. It looks like it is just below that black pipe \ breather hose is to the left of the two screws holding the autoenricher in place. To the left of those screws is an approx 1 inch brassy circle, now go down a little to the bottom of that breather hose and I think I see it hiding there :)


carb2 by ABritOnMaui, on Flickr

Circled in red.
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We have the same trouble here. What I don't understand is If it's called tourist season, why can't I shoot them
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:22 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by CaseyJones View Post
Nice buy. Nicer write-up.

I had damage to mine, too - that somehow the brick&mortar didn't catch or hoped I wouldn't. I didn't, until I got home and the busted panel fell apart at the touch - the forward splash-shield right behind the front wheel, protecting the gas tank.

My top speed is 51 mph, and at that speed the engine is over the redline. Which is odd since I'm a heavy cuss; a lighter rider would have the engine whipping to the redline even faster. Needs different weights in the variator.

The speedo change, is immaterial. The thing is so far off it's literally useless, digital or analog. It's right between kPh and mph...remember 100 kPh is 62 mph. Ninety kPh is about 55. Yet on mine, a reading of 60 is 49. That doesn't cross-rate to anything.

So...I'm planning to mount a GPS right on the front bar , probably blocking the useless speedo.

Anyway...it's a good package and excellent value - except for the limited top speed. I'd love to find a way to bump it up to 65...or more accurately, a cruising speed of 65. But whether I do or not...I like the ride.
Two days in and couldn't agree more. The speedo is just plain useless. I've never looked at a gauge and laughed before. I feel like plastering a sticky over the top of it and write "something" on it. I'm going some speed. Slightly faster than city traffic and slightly slower than causeway traffic. That could be anywhere from 45-55mph.

The next time I change the gear oil, I'm gonna take the variator apart and start logging roller weight changes and performance. I will have to find some sort of metric that doesn't use rpms though. I guess the butt dyno mixed with GPS readings will do. I'm thinking lighter weights, even if it means even lower top speed. I only have to cross the causeway a two days of the week, so I'd rather have more acceleration around town. PEACE.
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:29 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by ABritOnMaui View Post
It 'should' be on this side . In theory it is to the left of the auto enricher. I think I see it. It should be a slightly recessed flathead screw. It looks like it is just below that black pipe \ breather hose is to the left of the two screws holding the autoenricher in place. To the left of those screws is an approx 1 inch brassy circle, now go down a little to the bottom of that breather hose and I think I see it hiding there :)



Circled in red.
Thanks for the edited pic. That's exactly what I was looking at when I snapped that picture. There's a bit of an optical illusion from the reflection. That's not a flat head screw. That's a completely-flat surface. It doesn't look like a screw was broken or sheered-off. It looks like the hole was filled, or almost like they didn't drill the hole, but milled a little circle there.

I've pressed and poked at it with my screwdriver, and it's solid. No give, no rotation, no nothing. The PDI I printed had a diagram of the engine, and that's where the screw was supposed to be. I've also seen and done limited work with model airplane engines, and they're pretty much setup the same way with the idle and fuel screws.

So...any ideas? It's not like the engine is stalling on me or giving trouble starting, but I would like to have some control over how my engine runs. PEACE.
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:48 PM   #21
ABritOnMaui
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Originally Posted by Pimpwerx View Post
Thanks for the edited pic. That's exactly what I was looking at when I snapped that picture. There's a bit of an optical illusion from the reflection. That's not a flat head screw. That's a completely-flat surface. It doesn't look like a screw was broken or sheered-off. It looks like the hole was filled, or almost like they didn't drill the hole, but milled a little circle there.

I've pressed and poked at it with my screwdriver, and it's solid. No give, no rotation, no nothing. The PDI I printed had a diagram of the engine, and that's where the screw was supposed to be. I've also seen and done limited work with model airplane engines, and they're pretty much setup the same way with the idle and fuel screws.

So...any ideas? It's not like the engine is stalling on me or giving trouble starting, but I would like to have some control over how my engine runs. PEACE.
Very weird! That is exactly where it should be and what it should look like lol. Very weird it has no way of turning it. As you say, it isn't an immediate concern if the scoot is running ok, however it is something you may need or want to adjust in the future (if you decide to take it up any mountains) or you notice it is running lean. There are ways of getting it to turn, using a dremel to make a bevel for a screwdriver would be one I guess. Replacing the entire carb would be another, given they aren't expensive. Very very weird it is not adjustable, I wonder if they set it correctly in the factory and do that to stop us messing it up? Then again they cannot know what altitude we would be using it at either.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crampfan View Post
We have the same trouble here. What I don't understand is If it's called tourist season, why can't I shoot them
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:33 PM   #22
RustyStuff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ABritOnMaui View Post
Very weird! That is exactly where it should be and what it should look like lol. Very weird it has no way of turning it. As you say, it isn't an immediate concern if the scoot is running ok, however it is something you may need or want to adjust in the future (if you decide to take it up any mountains) or you notice it is running lean. There are ways of getting it to turn, using a dremel to make a bevel for a screwdriver would be one I guess. Replacing the entire carb would be another, given they aren't expensive. Very very weird it is not adjustable, I wonder if they set it correctly in the factory and do that to stop us messing it up? Then again they cannot know what altitude we would be using it at either.

The hole might have been pluged. Something the EPA requires to get emmissions compliance in the USA.
Everything built for on road in the last 30 years is that way.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:36 PM   #23
Tarka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pimpwerx View Post
I'd like to know that. I took two pics of it.




Do I need to drain that plug along with the big one that has the screen? If so, I guess I'll complete my next oil change tomorrow when I hit 100 miles instead of when I hit 150. I supposed that could be where that extra Prima magnetic bolt goes. PEACE.

That to my eyes is a pretty standard location for an engine drain bolt....if they`re not as the photo they`re central underneath or at the front next to the oil filter....and I reckon therein lies the mystery bolt 'unmystified' !

I`m loving this thread!
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:36 PM   #24
btcn
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I don't read all the replies here but I read your posts on the bike.


Youse doing a good job! These china bikes have some potential to be reasonable bikes, BUT, if you do that extra TLC. Youse likely to have a reasonable experance due to your efforts from day 1. Not 1/4 the quality of a Honda or a reputable scooter or motorcycle, but its still can be good!


And man, don't complain about that speedo! For a china scoot, with only 5 MPH off is great! Seriously. My Honda motorcycles read about that! Nearly every Japanese Motorcycle reads somewhere between 5%-10% off.

EXCEPT Honda scooters in my experance. My old 86 Elite 150 is within +/- 1MPH of both GPS and Radar.

But, this will be a little slow. Expect to top out 55 MPH once broke in, maybe 60 MPH or so in decent conditions.
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:04 PM   #25
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So, I learned that the fuel gauge actually works. I ran out of gas just about the second the gauge hit "E". Luckily, I was exactly one block from my apartment when it happened. Slightly embarrassing, but no worse for wear.

As the guy from AAA put it, "How can you run out of gas on a motorcycle?" Well...besides being an idiot, I had bought a 2.5 gallon gas can, which I had deposites 2.1 gallons into on Monday. However, the bike was delayed until Tuesday, so I left the gas can sitting on the porch. It has a cap and valve, so I figured it was airtight. I poured the full can into the tank, but the fuel gauge only registered like 1/3 full. I only drove 80 miles or so, which is what I ballparked a third of a 3 gallon tank getting me, but I was still of the belief that I had poured-in around 2 gallons. Damn hubris. PEACE.
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Old 04-12-2012, 03:15 AM   #26
CaseyJones
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warney View Post
You own an R1200GS and think a Honda Big Ruckus is spendy?
I bought the oilhead in better days. I do okay now; but the days of being flush are over, at least for now.

I've considered even selling the GS - but I don't want to; it's paid for and there's no telling whether I'll get a chance to own another. If the arthritis gets worse....WHEN it does...I'll sell and add to my stable of scoots; but for now I'll keep my memento of better days.

No room in the budget for a used $4500 scoot, though.
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Old 04-12-2012, 03:19 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pimpwerx View Post
Two days in and couldn't agree more. The speedo is just plain useless. I've never looked at a gauge and laughed before. I feel like plastering a sticky over the top of it and write "something" on it. I'm going some speed. Slightly faster than city traffic and slightly slower than causeway traffic. That could be anywhere from 45-55mph.

The next time I change the gear oil, I'm gonna take the variator apart and start logging roller weight changes and performance. I will have to find some sort of metric that doesn't use rpms though. I guess the butt dyno mixed with GPS readings will do. I'm thinking lighter weights, even if it means even lower top speed. I only have to cross the causeway a two days of the week, so I'd rather have more acceleration around town. PEACE.
Unless they changed things even further...you have a red indicator to show excessive RPMS there. It's one of those warning lights that are not explained in my manual...maybe not yours. A red triangle with an exclamation mark.

There may or may not be a rev limiter. I've never gotten it past the 10,000 mark - where the tach shows the redline.

As for the gas gauge...apparently there's a binding or problem in the float mechanism. Takes time from when you add gas to when it shows full; and - looks like - takes time from when the tank runs out to where the float shows E.

I have an electronic bar graph and it STILL has problems with showing correct level.
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Old 04-12-2012, 04:59 AM   #28
deezildennis
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Make sure you get a cover for it if you keep it outside. If you mentioned you planned to I must have missed it.


Mine seems to be a little quicker out of the hole since I changed my cvt belt. The new one seemed less pliable than the stocker.

I may play with the rollers as well or look into better pulleys.

I did get a spare cvt cover and vented it though.
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:09 PM   #29
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So...I'm 263 miles and 4 oil changes in now. I haven't updated in a while, because life's been busy. I also lost a memory card with some pics on it, so I'm short on images today.

First oil change was out of the box. The second oil change was at 85 miles or so. I noticed flakes of metal. I guess that's normal. It turns out that mystery bolt is the second drain for the crankcase, after all. So I ended up performing a third oil change at 180 miles. I also changed the gear oil at this time. I noticed more metal flakes in the engine oil again, but not as much as the previous change. I used brake cleaner to remove it from the magnetic bolts. I also noticed metal flakes in the gear oil and cleaned those. When I'd ridden my bike back to my apartment, I noticed it was dripping oil. I didn't replace the washer on the second drain bolt, and it was warped. So the bolt didn't sit properly and I had a slow leak. This resulted in a fourth oil change the very next day...somewhere around 200 miles in.

I currently have 263 miles on the bike, so I've got a good amount to report. First, the few pics I managed to snap last weekend.


See the wrench sitting in the middle? I hooked into one of the fins on the drive face, and then used the kick stand rod as a stopper. This let me turn the variator nut without spinning the variator. I haven't quite figured out how to remove the clutch bell. I was kinda fatigued by the time I got to this, so I wasn't thinking straight. Any thoughts?

FYI, when I removed the variator cover, the gasket tore. I was gentle too, and the bike has low miles. I'm pretty disappointed in that. It just tore in one place. Is it really that important given how many people vent their cases?

Also, pictured is the stock belt. Let me know if it looks like it's too small. I thought it was supposed to be 842, but it's a 835 belt.


I haven't researched changing brake fluid on these bikes, but I assume I have to. The rear brake fluid seems low. I don't know how to read the brake fluid indicators, and they change levels when I'm riding. I don't really know how to get fluid in and out of the reservoirs, so any advice is welcome. I'll just google it if necessary.


I stripped her bare. I'm having some performance issues, so I took off all the panels, pulled the carb and adjusted the valves. It's sitting in my shed under the bike cover while I drag my feet cleaning the carb and consider purchasing performance upgrades.

So here are my issues:

1. Loss of power after running 5-10 miles. Once I hit that distance, if I go WOT for more than a few seconds, once I release the throttle, the engine either sputters and loses power, or just dies altogether. After that, it won't start up again unless I let it sit and cool down for some time. It can be anywhere from 5-20 minutes. I'm not sure how to kick start (I know...I'm stupid).

I haven't researched this, but I thought I remembered reading something about adjusting the valves and setting the mixture and idle. This is why I just got annoyed and pulled everything off. I'm like, "this problem's getting fixed before I take it for another ride".

2. Not really an issue, but holy crap crossing drawbridges is scary. Is there any threat of my bike skidding out from under me? I'm just trying to go in a straight line, and the bike is wobbling erratically. Any tips other than finding overpasses?

3. I'll track is closely in the future, but I feel like my gas mileage is only 50-60mpg. During my first two oil changes, I was overfilling the crankcase, since I wasn't draining it completely. I don't know if this is responsible for the mileage.

4. I have different diameters of fuel and vacuum hose. I'm gonna have to buy more of the stuff before I replace it all. I've also gotta track down more extra nuts and bolts than I thought as some stuff has rattled loose. Red loctite will be going on.

Here are my fixes so far:

1. I fixed the storage compartment, at least its inability to stay closed and locked. I took the box off and noticed the locking latch was bent and wasn't slotting into the locking hook on the box. So I took some pliers and made sure I bent i back into shape without damaging the latch. The real test will be if the storage compartment stays shut with my disc lock banging around inside.

2. I rerouted some of the fuel and vacuum lines that just seemed tangled for no good reason. It's obvious some of these hoses were changed or added after others, because there's no logic to some of their routing. I still plan on replacing them all, but I figured rerouting was necessary anyway. It was an easy fix.

3. I found the air/fuel screw. ABritOnMaui circled it in that pic. It's underneath that aluminum cap. I had to drill it out using a 1/4" bit. This was a bit nerve-racking. For one, I took off a little bit of the surrounding cast metal while I was drilling. I also felt like might have made a mistake, because I was drilling for so long. The cap is thicker than you might think. Be warned. I'll try to snap pics when I clean it out. It'll give you an idea of how deep the screw is in there. It's a PD24J carb. I'm just stoked I can tune the engine at least a little bit now.


Other stuff of note:

1. So I took the variator off (again, I'll try to snap pics) and it comes with 17g weights stock. I weighed them. I plan on starting off with lighter weights and tinkering once I'm back on the road.

2. I pulled off the stock belt and it's a Gates Powerlink 835 20. WTF? Isn't that too short for the type of engine I have? I ordered a 842 20 belt on Amazon already. I'm not sure what to think. Should it be obvious if the belt is the wrong size?

3. When I started taking it apart, I wanted to be cautious, but I got so annoyed I just went crazy. I've never taken an engine apart, but I was like, "welp...it's already giving me problems, what's the worst than can happen". So I decided to just go for it and popped the carb and valve cover off. I'm glad I did. It's very close to model airplane engines, and I've worked briefly with those. I'm tempted to try my own port and polish now. I have no fear of damaging anything on this bike now.

That's it. I'll update as I go. PEACE.

Pimpwerx screwed with this post 05-07-2012 at 07:18 PM
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:14 PM   #30
deezildennis
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Hmmm..

There shouldn't be any need to mess with the clutch bell or the clutch shoes behind it with under 300 miles on it. I have well over 3000 on my rowdy and the clutch shoes look fine.

Your running issue sounds to me like a vapor lock in the tank brought on by a faulty gas cap that isn't allowing the tank to vent. And not a valve clearence issue especially with that few miles.

The 835 is the correct belt size for the rowdy. When I had mine in for the 2k checkup I asked to have them check the valve gap and it was in spec. I suggest not messing with them and make sure the tank is venting at the cap. Since the rowdy is on the heavy side of the 150cc bikes I also suggest keeping the heavy stock weights in the trans. I tried several different weights to just mess around and it didn't do anything.but affect the performance of the bike.

As for the hoses .. I left mine alone since they seem to function and be of good quality.

The cvt cover doesn't really need the gasket. But when I replaced my belt when it wasn't needed..... I just ran a thin bead of black silicone around the cover and slapped her back on.

I did away with my vented cvt cover and put the stocker back on since I ride mine rain or shine and big puddles of water tended to make the belt slip If water got into it. I have ran 100 plus miles in a day non stop and though the cover is hot the belt isn't affected that I can tell even with the wife sitting on the back with me. Never run with the cover off since it is a structural part of the case. Lots a of gy6 ruckus mod guys have cracked their case that way and its a sure fire Way to trash your block and causing a need for a new engine assembly.

To kickstart it, put the bike on the center stand and make sure the key is on and the run switch in on, flip out the kick peg, hold one of the brake handles in and kick the lever down in one fluid motion while standing faceing the rear of the bike and use your right foot. It'll start.

Find the vent hole for the cap and make sure it is venting. New caps can be had but yours is probably stopped up. My brand new triumph had the same issue so it does happen.
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