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Old 06-07-2013, 02:47 PM   #1666
TahoeRob
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: N Lake Tahoe
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Bravo Noah. Your photography has come a long way through the course of this thread. The intimacy these people are showing you is a testament to your growing skills while shooting. (GREAT image!) And the last few posts of landscapes are nothing to sneeze at either. The landslide image really puts the scale in perspective.
Thanks for letting us tag along.

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Old 06-07-2013, 06:06 PM   #1667
Lutz
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Location: North Shore of Lake Superior
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This is so awesome, Noah! I can honestly say I had no idea the natural and man-influenced beauty in that part of the world. I guess like so many others, my views have been warped by media coverage of areas in or following conflict. Thanks for showing an uplifting perspective.

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Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
When I started the trip I weighed in at about 205 lbs (93kg). Today I stepped on a scale for the first time in many months. I was just under 175 lbs (79kg). I don't think I've been this weight since high school. I bet if I shave the beard I'll be at 170
And I recall someone early on in your trip telling you to watch it with the heavy foods (burgers, I think). Guess you've had a pretty good balance of diet and exercise after all.

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Old 06-07-2013, 06:44 PM   #1668
Honkey Cat
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Wow sp glad you choose not to listen and ride there.
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:12 PM   #1669
lightfighter
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I lose a few pounds on a weeklong trip covering two states.

I figure it's a sign that travel is good for the soul and you find yourself less hungry.
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:14 PM   #1670
b737jets
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Noah this is possibly the best ride report I have ever read !!!! Keep up the great work enjoy the ride those last set of pics were great felt like I was almost there...
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Old 06-07-2013, 09:58 PM   #1671
RoninMoto OP
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Joined: May 2010
Location: EN ZED
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May 27 Garm Chasma to Kalaikhum. 292 km
The road to Qualaikum was shitty pavement or gravel. I would be up against a cliff or in lush green agricultural towns. If it was green on the Tajik side, there was probably a cliff on the Afghan side and visa versa. I found an ATM in Khorog and pulled out a couple hundred US worth of Sumis. Up until now I had only spent about $100 in Tajikistan. Chicken shashlik for lunch. There was a nice girl and her mom sitting next to me. I find it funny when I ask if someone speaks english and the reply is "yes, of course". They act like it is no big deal. Its either "No", or "a little" or "yes of course" She had a brother in the US studying to be a doctor. Just as the sun was getting low, I was entering a small village.. more like a restaurant with 2 houses. I slowed like I normally do and stood up to look around. A huge dog ran out from my left and started biting at my heels. I knew there was a kid further up on the left also. I accelerated a bit to try to get rid of the dog and the kid went sprinting across the street in front of me. I locked up the rear tire and braked hard on the front. If I missed him by 20 feet it felt like 3. Adrenaline pumping, trying to figure out what just happened I slowed to a stop and looked back. 2 Truck drivers were throwing rocks at the dog. I went back to make sure everything was ok. The mother was hysterical and yelling at me. I tried to explain that the dog was biting at me and the kid ran right in front of me. The truck drivers helped and after a minute we all calmed down. I kept telling her I am sorry and we both agreed that it was good no one was hurt. Now that my nerves were paper thin the games kids play to "block the street" or try to give you high five were not fun anymore. I just wanted to park the bike. In Kalaikhum I found a homestay. They did not have a garage but I was able to put the bike in a neighbors garage for $2. The fed me salad and dumplings. Beer was a necessity to calm my nerves. I watched a movie on my laptop and went to bed.




The lady on the right was having a good time. I promise.












School uniforms.






Lots of Chinese trucks.. Not much room on this road.






More shashlik. I will tell you when I am sick of it.




At this point I was riding on a nice paved road looking across the river at Afghanistan thinking it would be much more of an adventure on that road.




Smooshed rocks.






Anywhere that is green has water...




The only person I have ever let ride my moto who didn't have a moto for me to ride in return. I'm not sure why I did it. But it was the slowest this bike had ever gone. Shortly after they made me do wheelies before they would open the gate.










Woops.


Last pic for this day.
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Old 06-08-2013, 12:34 AM   #1672
MeinMotorrad
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Location: Between Velez Rubio and Huercal Overa, Spain.
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Lovely stuff Noah. Stunning landscapes.

If the craziness ever stops in Afghanistan it is a must ride country from what I have seen from various TV reports. Perhaps one day the 'Hippy Trail' will re open. If it does, I'm on it.
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Old 06-08-2013, 05:58 AM   #1673
RoninMoto OP
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Location: EN ZED
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May 28 Kalaikhum to Dushanbe. 381 km
I got fuel in Kalaikhum then headed out. The road was potholed gravel for a while and I stopped to take a picture and noticed the dry bag with my Tent, sleeping bag and camp pad had fallen off my moto. I turned around and started backtracking. Soon I saw the military trucks that I had passed earlier. I flagged them down and tried to explain what I was looking for. They laughed at me for about a minute then one guy jumped out the cab and handed it to me. I thanked them all with candy bars. Soon after that there is road construction for about 120 km. It was either smooth rolled gravel with small rocks making it like riding on marbles or it was brand new pavement. Soon the canyon opened up and I was riding on a shit gravel/mud/clay/dusty road along the river. They were building bridges over the rivers that flow into the Pamir so there were a few rocky water crossings but nothing horrible. Later as you are climbing away from the Pamir valley toward Dushanbe, the road is all clay. You are either in rockhard dusty ruts or nasty red mud. There is no in between. The moto started to give me an FI fault code (as discussed earlier). By the time I made it to Dushanbe I was very frustrated. About 50 times that day I had to turn the moto on and off to reset the problem. It would last anywhere from 30 seconds to 30 hours without problem again. I found the Adventurers Inn Guesthouse just as it was starting to get dark. A few people on bikes, a few backpackers and some guys in a landrover were all there. It was nice to be around travelers again.








Brand new pavement.


This Italian was cool. Ski instructing in the winter, bicycle touring in the summer.


One of the rocky river crossings. Not much water.


Some clay mud to play with.






My last view of Afghanistan.


Watch out for washouts.


May 29 and 30 Dushanbe
On the 29th I spent most of the day getting caught up some writing, video editing and journal entries. Later in the day I took a spin on the moto. I connected the multimeter to the regulator/rectifier to see if that was the problem. Sure enough, when the FI light started flashing and the bike went into limp mode (running like shit) the voltage jumped from 14.4v to 19v. I tired to find an auto bazaar to see if I could source replacement parts. It seems Motos are very uncommon in Tajikistan so no luck. That night I met a guy who knows a guy. If you have problems with your moto in Dushanbe, there is only one guy who can help you. His name is Andrew (sounds like Andre) and he speaks about as much english as I speak russian. I brought my bike to his garage (a container full of tools and scooter parts) and I showed him what I needed. He had some Reg/Recs from chinese scooters but they were 2 phase charging not 3 phase like the bigger bikes. I was thinking I was totally screwed and would have to wait for parts to come in. I asked if he knew of anyone with a big bike that had been crashed. His friend had a 95 yamaha 600 that was not running. Within 20 minutes I had a direct bolt up replacement of the reg/rec on the KTM. We spliced the wires and I was again charging at 14.4 v. 200 sumis later, about $50, and I was in business. That night we celebrated with many beers and shashlik. Note to self: Chicken wings on shashlik skewers are amazing. There was a girl from Singapore at the Adventurer's Inn was talking about going north to Iskandar lake by share taxi. She didn't know if she could get the 24km back to the lake from the main road. I told her I was heading up that way and if she needed I could get her to the lake if needed....


Old on the left. New on the right.


Installation. This pic shows most of my extra grounding prep. I don't like relying on the frame.
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RTW Ride Report --> http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781893
Blog ------------------> http://rtwwithnoah.blogspot.com/
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Old 06-08-2013, 06:55 AM   #1674
sprouty115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
There was a girl from Singapore at the Adventurer's Inn was talking about going north to Iskandar lake by share taxi. She didn't know if she could get the 24km back to the lake from the main road. I told her I was heading up that way and if she needed I could get her to the lake if needed...
Gotta ask - did you end up giving her a lift?
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Old 06-08-2013, 07:20 AM   #1675
squawk77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post

At this point I was riding on a nice paved road looking across the river at Afghanistan thinking it would be much more of an adventure on that road.
Yea haha... what a trail!! The country is full of them. Just get over that pass and meet me at the Pizza Hut in Mazar-I-Sharif Looks like an amazing trip
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Old 06-08-2013, 09:08 AM   #1676
tvbh40a
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Pics

Noah your pics are great. I love the scenery. Amazing focus, are you using any kind of pod or just hand held?
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Old 06-08-2013, 09:49 AM   #1677
jonnykilo
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A year and counting

Noah, still following along now that you over a year and counting. Great mix of photos and personal narrative. Thanks for keeping those of us who are bound to normal lives entertained with your adventures. Godspeed and safe riding.

jak
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Old 06-08-2013, 02:41 PM   #1678
Uller
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Location: Arlington, WA
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Simply Amazing!

Living vicariously through you Noah. Love the pictures. They are just incredible.

Glad you got the moto fixed.
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Old 06-08-2013, 04:32 PM   #1679
LordSteven
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???

Seriously, did you give her a ride?
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Old 06-08-2013, 04:49 PM   #1680
Kirkster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprouty115 View Post
Gotta ask - did you end up giving her a lift?
Quote:
Originally Posted by LordSteven View Post
Seriously, did you give her a ride?
He is building the suspense.... Or not tellin
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