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Old 06-28-2013, 01:00 AM   #1756
RoninMoto OP
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Location: In the mountains?
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June 3. Osh
I slept in and caught up on net stuff. Went to Muztoo to get a new front from them. I knew they had a 90/90 21 TKC 80 waiting for me. $120. I can't complain. For a long lasting tire, the TKC 80 front is decent. Plus my current front was just about shot. Muztoo rents Motos to people to ride Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. They are great guys and they are very willing to help. If you want to do the Pamir Highway, you don't need 2 months. You only need 2 weeks. Fly to Osh, get some bikes. Ride the pamir highway. Fly home. Muztoo website.
GPS. 40.529 72.793

June 4. Osh to near Kazarman 307 km.
I was on the same road the I had already ridden twice befor until Jala-Abad. When I got close to Jala-Abad, for about 5 km there were trucks parked on the side of the road. I had heard rumors about protests blocking the road between Osh and Bishkek. I was hoping I would be able to avoid the protest but before I knew it, I was there. And there was no way around. So I went through like I owned the place. I rode past all the trucks, cars and people. I wend around the trucks blocking the road. I rode right through the group of people in a large circle listening to someone talking on stage. On the other side I stopped and snapped a few quick pics. A few people started asking if I was going to Bishkek but I said I was going into the mountains to Kazarman. They were skeptical but didn't cause me any trouble. I told them to fight the power and the shook my hand and I went on. Soon I was on some nice ADV roads again climbing through mud and rocks. Snow on the side of the roads. In the evening my bike started to chug and miss. A now familiar symptom. I was looking for a place to camp and the bike died. I guess thats where I camp. This is my 3rd time replacing the low voltage connection to the coil. I cook some noodles and go to bed. It rains some in the night.






Protesters blocking the street.


Back into some good riding.
























Hidden.

June 5. Near Kazarman to Karakol. 552 km.
In the morning there is sun and threatening rain. I get to dry the tent most of the way before starting to ride again. The first town I find has a small shop. Breakfast is chocolate and canned fish while I hide under the shelter from rain. On and off all day it rains but it is beautiful. The roads are fast and fun. They don't get muddy, they just get "not dusty". By the evening I am riding along the south side Issyk Kul. It is quite strange. There are abandoned hotels along the lake. The north side is where all the drunk Russian tourists go. I get to Karakol and find a hotel with a locking gate. The Karakol Cafe is a great place for internet. The girl there is very nice and speaks amazing english. I warn you though, you will fall in love a little. I asked her if the border on road A362 was open. It had previously not been open to foreigners for about 2 years. All the info on the internet I had seen said it was supposed to be open to non-locals but no one had tried yet. She called a friend of hers who was Kyrgyz border police. He said it would open on the 7th. Stay one more day in Karakol? Sure why not. That night I went out with a guy from UK and a girl from Massachusetts. She was vegetarian and it was funny to listen to her stories about traveling in central asia. Good luck not eating meat. Everything is cooked with meat, around meat, in meat product, processed with meat, or cooked in a pan that had 1 minute previously cooked meat. Maybe this is why the food is so good.




Canyon.




I was riding in the clouds for a while before it cleared to see this.








Grave yard.


Really? I think the signs were put up before it was built.


German push bikers. I have seen way more peddlers then motos in the stans. Maybe I am early?


Issyk Kul

June 6. Karakol.
I spent the day updating the blog and talking with Aikerim and updating the blog. This was the day that I typed up 10 days from Tajik and hit post.. then everything was lost and I had to retype. A bit frustrating but it is what it is. I fixed a few of the bicycles that Aikerim rents in exchange for coffee and some soup. She was definitely a cool girl. The kind a guy could fall in love with if he stayed longer than 2 days. I fully dried my tent in the sun and got ready for leaving the next day.







June 7. Karakol Kyrgyzstan to Almaty Kazakhstan. 336 km
Quick ride to the border on some nice roads. Beautiful views. I love going to border crossings that not many foreigners go to. Infact, there was basically no one there. Since this was the first day this border was open, I was the first American passport they had seen in years. Many of them ever. Leaving kyrg was quick and easy as expected. Kazakh took longer. Only because the customs guys couldn't figure out the computer program to "temp import" my moto. I knew I needed this paperwork for Russia. Russia, Kazakh and Belarus (I think? Maybe Ukraine) are in the same customs zone. While I waited they fed me soupe, bread and coffee. Free lunch is ok by me. Riding was nothing special until I got 30 km from Almaty. Then you have to ride loud and aggressive or you will be a bug on a bumper. Almaty is like any other big city in central asia, way to many cars and shitty drivers. What makes Almaty different is the amount of money. So its not only shitty drivers in shitty cars, its shitty drivers in fast cars also. You have to constantly be looking in your mirrors because they don't respect motos or bicycles. "I have 500 hp SUV. Get the FOOK OUT MY WAY". I found my friend and we went to get some food and drinks.


Riding through orchards with snow covered peaks on both sides in the morning.






The road less traveled.


Kazakh border guards wanted pictures.



June 8- 13. Almaty.
If you are in Almaty, you need to visit Yeldos at his restaurant "Eldoro". Its located on Puskin St. 42/44. GPS 43.260, 76.953
Great coffee, burger, and Pizza (as well as local food). But.. I hadn't had good pizza since Italy. He let me park my bike behind locked gate at his restaurant. He took me to many different moto shops to help me find oil, a tire and a spare Reg/Rec. He rides himself and loves to talk over tea and coffee. Definitely a good guy, especially if you need help.

When I couchsurf, I like to pay back the person I am staying with. At Shynr's house, I spend a few days waiting for parts so I had her make a "honey do list" before I got there. I fixed the toilet, bathroom lights, installed a dimmer switch, fixed a drawer and curtain rod. It was quite fun getting stuff I needed from the bazaar. Good place to practice Russian. We went to a few concert, sang karaoke, ate amazing food, and walked around the city a lot. I even cooked pad thai for her. Before I knew it a week had gone by and I was feeling the itch to get back on the road.


At the concert.







Because I'm classy.










She likes my pad thai.

While I was loading the bike to leave, I was approached by a man... "Noah? Hi I'm nightflyer from ADV, I've been following your trip for a while". This is the 2nd person who who has recognized me from ADV or my blog. The first was in Portland Oregon. Great to meet you dude! Go get a moto... the soul can not survive with the absence of 2 wheels!


nightflyer on the left.
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Old 06-28-2013, 02:13 AM   #1757
Edmond Dantès
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Good stuff Noah!
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Old 06-28-2013, 03:40 AM   #1758
Cortez
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:22 AM   #1759
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Outstanding

Awesome write-up and pics.

I like the idea of the "honey do list" payment for couch-surfing. And damn, when they're that cute why not stick around a while


Enjoy,
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:25 AM   #1760
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the soul can not survive with the absence of 2 wheels!

Hey man!

great update!
I don't have a motorcycle around here but at least I ride my mountain bike, that's better than nothing right?

Shynar is sooooooo happy with all the handywork you performed in her appartment she even gave me the detailed list

Ride safe, I am sure our paths will cross again later....

P.S: regarding what we talked about for Myanmar, check your PMs!
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:57 AM   #1761
RoninMoto OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PirateSeaCaptain View Post
Awesome write-up and pics.

I like the idea of the "honey do list" payment for couch-surfing. And damn, when they're that cute why not stick around a while


Enjoy,
Thanks Man. You should have heard how she complained about the people who do house maintenance there. She showed me all the stuff that she paid people to "fix" and made it worse or broke something else. Tough to find good help I guess.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nightflyer View Post
Hey man!

great update!
I don't have a motorcycle around here but at least I ride my mountain bike, that's better than nothing right?

Shynar is sooooooo happy with all the handywork you performed in her appartment she even gave me the detailed list

Ride safe, I am sure our paths will cross again later....

P.S: regarding what we talked about for Myanmar, check your PMs!
A bike is better than nothing. And I guess better than a scooter.
Did you talk to Yeldos?

Thanks for the PM. Hopefully that pans out.
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RTW Ride Report --> http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781893
Blog ------------------> http://rtwwithnoah.blogspot.com/
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Old 06-28-2013, 04:58 AM   #1762
Cortez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
A bike is better than nothing. And I guess better than a scooter.
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:09 AM   #1763
RoninMoto OP
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Originally Posted by Cortez View Post
I guess if you had this scooter it would be ok.


But I shouldn't talk shit. I will be on one soon enough in Vietnam
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RTW Ride Report --> http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781893
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:16 AM   #1764
Cortez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
I guess if you had this scooter it would be ok.


But I shouldn't talk shit. I will be on one soon enough in Vietnam
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Old 06-28-2013, 05:27 AM   #1765
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Noah, I'm stuck on the other side of the world away from my home and bike all summer. Reading your trip report makes me want to drop everything and do the same thing as you. Thanks for the great writing and pictures!
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:16 AM   #1766
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Hiya NOah.


Looks like you're moving forward as you should. Again, great pictures and fantastic reading. Thanks again.
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Old 06-28-2013, 08:18 AM   #1767
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What made you set out on this trip? And have you begun finding whatever it is that you were looking for?

Great trip report. Loved all the pictures.
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Old 06-28-2013, 10:10 AM   #1768
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Originally Posted by rhino1987 View Post
Noah, I'm stuck on the other side of the world away from my home and bike all summer. Reading your trip report makes me want to drop everything and do the same thing as you. Thanks for the great writing and pictures!
Thanks for following along. I am so thankful for all of you that give me encouragement. Without being held accountable to this RR... I might not take the time to write it down or take that picture. I'm a bit lazy like that. But you forget. And I'm happy that I can share it with all of you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
Hiya NOah.

Looks like you're moving forward as you should. Again, great pictures and fantastic reading. Thanks again.
Hiya Hardwaregirl! Glad you are enjoying. Cheers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red liner View Post
What made you set out on this trip? And have you begun finding whatever it is that you were looking for?

Great trip report. Loved all the pictures.
The truth?
I was working/living in southern California. I'm going to generalize here.. I found people to be rude, materialistic, fake, ignorant and not hard working (does not apply to ADV inmates ). I always said after 5 years with this company I would step back and look at my life. "Am I happy". I liked my job, but I knew I would have to stay in California for a few more years. It was not where I wanted to spend the remainder of my 20s.

I was saving for a house. I had a pretty good down payment set aside. But again, I have no wife.. no kids.. why do I need a house? People always plan to travel when they retire. I am glad many of you get that chance. But I did not want to risk not making it to that point. I have changed so much in the past year.. good bad or ugly, my life will never be the same. It seems a shame to wait until I am old to learn about myself, the world and the people we share it with. No better time than now. I wanted to see the world before it is to fooked up to see. I wanted to experience culture before the western culture has infiltrated every last inch of the earth. No better time than now.

I see people backpacking staying in hostels. They live by the lonely planet book. I feel sorry for them. They just don't get the same experience you do on a moto.. with an idea for a plan.
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RTW Ride Report --> http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781893
Blog ------------------> http://rtwwithnoah.blogspot.com/
Facebook------------> https://www.facebook.com/RtwWithNoah

RoninMoto screwed with this post 06-28-2013 at 10:16 AM
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Old 06-28-2013, 10:57 AM   #1769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
I see people backpacking staying in hostels. They live by the lonely planet book. I feel sorry for them. They just don't get the same experience you do on a moto.. with an idea for a plan.
What might be even sadder is a moto traveler totally relying on that same book

It's a reference, not a bible, way more out there than what is listed in there.

I will continue to work until I die, retirement is a pipe dream. Travel as much as you can before you're old and tired out, lots more adventure to be had
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Old 06-28-2013, 10:59 AM   #1770
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Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
It seems a shame to wait until I am old to learn about myself, the world and the people we share it with. No better time than now.
spoken like a wise old man to be
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