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Old 04-21-2012, 01:49 PM   #16
ADVMax
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sstewart View Post
I need to order five gallons of Loctite 648.
You know, when Sadlsor's came loose he put the bolts back in with the 648 and it came loose again. That's when I gave him the Vibra Tite VC-3 to reassemble it with. It hasn't gotten loose again after the Vibra Tite application.


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Old 04-21-2012, 02:10 PM   #17
sstewart OP
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Bolts

I hope everyone will protect their investment,I'm sick over this. I have spent a bunch of money on this bike,this was the first real ride on it.
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Old 04-21-2012, 02:11 PM   #18
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Q-tips, carb cleaner inthe holes first. Clean and oil-free
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Old 04-21-2012, 08:36 PM   #19
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Fwiw- I did the loctite fix to my drz after having this same happen. I used brake clean and acetone as prep, allowed 48 hours to set/dry, 1k miles later I opened it back up just to double check and one bolt of six was loose again. It seems to me that the correct fix would be to have the flywheel and starter clutch fitted with hardened pressed in pins to handle the torque.
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Old 04-21-2012, 09:24 PM   #20
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Sends a chill up my spine just looking at it.

That really sucks. At first when I looked at the picture I thought I was looking at little worms and had to say WTF!

Is there really any way to flush the motor without splitting the cases to be 100% sure?
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:23 PM   #21
getagripgreg
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I bought my 950 with 85,000 + miles and a dead stator from this same failure. So those bolts can come loose after many many miles. I think it would be wise to check them as part of a major service, maybe every other valve check or so.

FWIW, the factory bulletin not only specifies the type of loctite, but where to apply it. Not only on the bolt threads, but on the entire mating surface of the two parts.

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....3&postcount=24

As for worries about shrapnel inside the motor, I don't think you should get too nervous. KTM does a really good job with screening and filtering the oil. Even the scavenge pump inlet is screened, so if you have a piece of steel bolt in the sump, it will land on the screen before going through the pump. Worst case, you will get some bits in the various ball bearings that are splash lubricated... but they are pretty tolerant to that kind of stuff. And the copper bits from the stator are really soft anyways, a good ball bearing wouldn't even sneeze at copper bits.

The oil tank screen catches any big bits before the pressure pump, and the paper filter catches anything after the pressure pump. Basically, no harm can come to your crankshaft and rod bearings from your stator failure.

The only way to eliminate risk of any damage is a complete teardown and clean or replace all ball and needle bearings. But since that isn't reasonable, just change the oil and filters, clean the screens, and try not to worry.

(My bike is closing on on 100,000 miles and has no ill effects from the stator failure, though it was not as severe as yours.)
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Old 04-22-2012, 12:48 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckracer View Post
How would you know this wasn't done if you aren't the original owner and the previous owners did their own wrenching, like me? In my case 62,000 miles (half of those mine) and it's strong and quiet...should I disturb those bolts and do this anyway?

My thoughts are if it hasn't come apart by now it's not gonna, and perhaps disturbing those bolts is worse than leaving them alone.

Your thoughts?
Firstly SStewart sorry for your troubles and thanks for sharing with the brothers in your time of need.

Chuckracer I've always wondered about this too. i mean - if I undo the bolts and retension then I lost the strength of the Locktite. If I just check the tension and visually nothing moves and the tension is correct I should be right (unless something did move and couldn't see it, surface tension broken and locktite no longer bonding). And if I retension, something obvious has moved, do I undo and clean up both treads, re-locktite and hope for the best. May-be leaving well enough alone and not looking for trouble could allow me to sleep at nights
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Old 04-22-2012, 12:06 PM   #23
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By next week , I'll be diving into my 34,000 mile Stator check I'm waiting for one more part to arrive.
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Old 04-22-2012, 12:11 PM   #24
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holy crap.

After you get it reassembed I'd flush it with inexpensive dino oil a few times to get as much copper bits out as possible.

Interestingly the TSB for the ignition rotor bolts only references 2003-2004 bikes.: http://cpmodem.smugmug.com/Motorcycl...503211&k=4WRXr
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Old 04-22-2012, 03:29 PM   #25
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It'd be great to hear from those with later year bikes that have had this unfortunate problem.
Hopefully there's a year, or specific serial number bike, that has been determined to have a factory fix implemented for this issue.

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Old 04-22-2012, 03:31 PM   #26
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Tb

I spoke to one of the guys at KTMWorld today. He said that the 05 didn't have the TB.
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Old 04-22-2012, 04:07 PM   #27
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There was a thread posted not long ago where another inmate had his stator disintegrate. I don't recall if bolts came loose or what year it was.
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Old 04-22-2012, 04:41 PM   #28
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This was by Qwik:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=37

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Old 04-22-2012, 07:20 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdvGa View Post
This was by Qwik:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=37

#37
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Well that's the clutch side.. better tighten those up too...

I recall a stator being chewed up.. maybe it was in the Garage forum, not OC, and certainly not to the degree as in the pics above.

Too many threads to keep track of.
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Old 04-22-2012, 07:26 PM   #30
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Scott,

Dude, I feel for you. All the work you put into this bike and now this... ouch!!

Gonna have to pull it apart I'm afraid there are so many small copper parts laying around in there...
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