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Old 04-27-2012, 04:02 AM   #1
Tbone OP
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1150 driveshaft rebuilt

I was wearing out my drive shaft worry beads concerning my 116k mile 2003 R1150GS. Nothing weird going on, just figures it would be a good idea to be proactive and get it rebuilt. I saw MSI mentioned in an older thread

http://www.machineservice.com/
I sent mine to the Green Bay facility and I am very happy with what I got back. First off they did it fast(one day turnaround), they did it much cheaper than Brunos ($260 versys $390) and the shipping was only $12 one way vs $38. The u-joints have zerk fittings so are greasable. I've put 200 miles on it now and running smooth with no issues. They even marked it so it's easy to line it up to stay in phase during install. Nice to support the USA.



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Old 04-27-2012, 04:41 AM   #2
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Nice. Thanks for the info on machineservice.com
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Old 04-27-2012, 06:26 AM   #3
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Sweet! Wish I had this info before tackling my own rebuild. Well, at least I got some experience out of the deal.
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Old 04-27-2012, 06:57 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbone View Post


You need to arrange your sockets according to size...yours are all mixed up.
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Old 04-27-2012, 07:39 AM   #5
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Not enough beer and too much TV.
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:02 AM   #6
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looks as if the caps are spot welded instead of swedged.

thats how I had planned to rebuild mine, but the joints are like $80 each.

heck at that point Ill just pay the $260
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:23 AM   #7
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I welded mine in too. I got these: ELBE 106 for $60 each.
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:25 AM   #8
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cool, thanks for the tip

Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert Skies View Post
I welded mine in too. I got these: ELBE 106 for $60 each.
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Old 05-12-2012, 07:13 PM   #9
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But Bruno machines grooves and installs c clips, does machine service ??
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:50 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by mouthfulloflake View Post

looks as if the caps are spot welded instead of swedged.

thats how I had planned to rebuild mine, but the joints are like $80 each.

heck at that point Ill just pay the $260
Take a close look, the caps are not welded. I didn't see it the first time either.
Machine Service welds in spacers to retain the caps.


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Old 06-11-2012, 07:14 AM   #11
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ah yes thats a good idea.

so does that mean the replacement joints have shorter cross sections?

or the yokes have enough material to allow for the depth of the spacer I guess.

I need to dig my spare shaft parts out of the shed and do some measuring.
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:46 AM   #12
drcool
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Take a close look, the caps are not welded. I didn't see it the first time either.
Machine Service welds in spacers to retain the caps.

That's how I did it in my shop at home. The 1/4" flat washers drop right in the recess and it's a simple tack weld to hold it in place. Minor job to dig the washers out for future replacement.

We get hosed pretty hard for the crosses here($130 each I think) but the local drive guy stocks them.

Rear cross wore out first. About 80k miles. Front was notchy around 100k miles.

I'm going to do a quick inspection prior to a trip but expect everything is good to go.

Not sure why they painted it.
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Old 08-14-2013, 05:41 AM   #13
Tbone OP
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Well I had to dig into the bike after experiencing some vibrations through the pegs. I found the front u-joint ready to self destruct with only 20k miles after being rebuilt. They did recommend I grease it every 15k and I was 5k over that. Just glad I found it before it took out the driveshaft/swingarm tube and maybe me with it

Just spoke to them on the phone and they said they'll work with me on fixing it. It had a 1 yr warranty (now past) but I still don't understand how the stock joints made it for 116k with no grease and the replacements can't make it 20k??

Tbone screwed with this post 08-14-2013 at 05:52 AM
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:46 AM   #14
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Do you know what joints they put in it?
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:48 AM   #15
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Do you know what joints they put in it?
No.
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