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Old 09-12-2013, 04:51 PM   #1711
Two Moto Kiwis OP
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Originally Posted by MTKNZ View Post
Chase them all you want and take more photo's while you are at it.
Suggest not catching one though, I have heard the experience is a little like a cross between catching a tiger by the tail and a jogging in a hurricane.
You end up very bruised, bloodied, and homeless!
And that's before your wife gets hold of you!
Don't have the money in the budget to catch one or a wife who would see the funny side if I did!!

Ellen wouldn't beat me, she would get the Triads on to me and torture me ... make me ride a BMW road bike or something really evil or something

Tomorrow my friend is writing and catch up day, had a big day in Columbia's back yard trying to find the non existent road ....which I was right

Maya took a beating, dented head pipe and bashplate, mud, water, dropped her in a creek ... poor thing.

Those pics to come, cheers mate.
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:40 PM   #1712
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So how is it now with FARC? No I'm not asking a personal question, (although feel free to respond )

I read the book by Glen Heggstad who goes by the name StrikingViking, who had an interesting stop over in the hills some distance away from Medellin, the gist of which is that some parts were dangerous to ride through, or has situation that passed now? I can't help feeling he went looking for adventure, and got it in buckets. I drove an old Land Rover through central Africa years ago, and I made a point of avoiding known tricky spots, given there are plenty of other destinations that have good food and a quiet night.
cheers
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Old 09-12-2013, 06:39 PM   #1713
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Originally Posted by TwoUpTourer View Post
So how is it now with FARC? No I'm not asking a personal question, (although feel free to respond )

I read the book by Glen Heggstad who goes by the name StrikingViking, who had an interesting stop over in the hills some distance away from Medellin, the gist of which is that some parts were dangerous to ride through, or has situation that passed now? I can't help feeling he went looking for adventure, and got it in buckets. I drove an old Land Rover through central Africa years ago, and I made a point of avoiding known tricky spots, given there are plenty of other destinations that have good food and a quiet night.
cheers
John
Heya John, I'm FARCing good man (ask Ellen ) ....seriously though, we have not seen or heard from the FARC, there are known hot spots which we will stay away from although the distance between ok and bad varies it is not a fine line and is easy to stay away from, plenty of other great stuff to see and enjoy.

We have been riding around the hills in Colombias back yard the last few days and there is no action other than big waves, big smiles and great people, we have found no animosity here whatsoever, just curiosity with the orange alien.

The small towns (which I agree with you on) on are far better, cheaper Hotels, friendly locals, great food and more about adventure travel and we have found generally a laid back atmosphere and no concerns for safety.

Re Glenn Heggstad, yeah I will probably get shot for saying this but there is something about owning your own responsibilities, you can be in the wrong place at the wrong time but that is rear, my opinion is he kinda asked for it, there is adventure and there is stupidity and I feel he fell into the later category, going where he did alone is just looking for trouble.

That said he made a mint out of it ... maybe that was the plan who knows.

As I say in my experience in international travel which includes, French Caledonia, Thailand, Ozzie, Iceland, Scandy, China, Tibet, Europe, Alaska down to Colombia, Cuba and a few other places my old head can't remember most places have their danger zones, even good old NZ has a very dark underbelly and one needs to take these into account and weigh up the odds of something unusual happening so to ride straight into FARC territory .... well.
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Old 09-12-2013, 06:54 PM   #1714
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Eh? What do kiwis know anyway?
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Old 09-12-2013, 07:22 PM   #1715
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Eh? What do kiwis know anyway?
Nothing ... nothing at all, I just goodled the answer

Besides Miamiraguans are no better
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Old 09-12-2013, 08:06 PM   #1716
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Medellin To Rio Claro

Saying goodbyes to R2R team Andres with local knowledge personally escorted us out of town to avoid traffic and no go way north only to come back to where we wanted to be, yet again he made the offer just to be of help ... Andres when are you moving to New Zealand to start a KTM dealership???

Andres on the tastie 1190



The final look, wave goodbye, Andres cracked it open and was gone in a flash they have more grunt than a paddock full of pigs



Waving goodbye after being kicked out formally we gased up and headed for Rio Claro, a park based on water sports.

The trip was uneventful, no protests or trouble and San Antonio was mostly cleaned up of truck tyres etc.

Arriving at the park we looked for some alternate accommodation as the park was expensive, in the end we stayed at the park, their price included tea that night, breakfast and lunch the following day, still more than what we would normally spend but we were there and the setting is very nice indeed, our room with the towel.



The room only has three and half walls, not a window to be found in the entire place, we thought we were going to get hammered by mozzies but there are none to our surprise ..... saweet.



That evening we were talking to some people who live in Medellin, I had gone to the bike to get some stuff when a fella came up and started talking with me interested in the orange alien so we chatted about the trip etc....as ya do.

He asked what we thought of the Rio Claro, so I said well it is beautiful and the next day we were going to go swimming and walk to the top.

The conversation progressed to are we doing any of the Zip line, rafting or caving so I openly said we wouldn’t as we had already creamed the next days budget before the next day so we would settle on the walk and swim which is included in our park entry fees.

The conversation took a very unexpected turn, this man was the son of the owner (which I didn’t know till then) and he said, ok in the morning you can do the Canopy tour zip line or rafting, gratis on the house but please tell your friends.

So with that offer we said yes please and wanted to do the zip line .... WOH HOH, love Colombia

Next morning we woke to a stunning day after a night of very big lighting, deafening thunder and very heavy rain which bought the river up 0.5 meter or more.

On with the gear .... hmmmm what have we let ourselves in for





Teaming up with our fello zipliners we walked up to the top and promptly swung and zipped our way down, the longest line being 300 meters long along the river.

Pack of scared muppets



Ellen mostly ready ... I am sorry what did you say ..no intendo senor .... vwumpf off she goes





The second line was the longest



Coulda put her hat on straight for the pic instead of hanging on for dear life ... sorry fellas



Incoming Kiwi



The last line before home and terra ferma



I am actually saying where is the toilet here



Ellen mid flight



Arriving back to base in one piece (which was cool) and smiles a mile wide we were very happy campers.

So now we have told our friends .... ouwh and you guys

After that we went for our walk and swim, talk about life of luxury on the footpath to freedom



There is a nature flow out of a rock wall so we swam over to investigate, the water flow was strong





The rope ladder



The water was coldish too



She wasn't climbing this very well



From there we continued to the top on the walking track through rock formations and massive limestone overhangs



Safety first ... what handrail



Cool rock formations, stalactites, stalagmites and a stellawife



Massive spider webs everywhere, really cool coloured spiders in them too



Awesome colours in the limestone rock



All in all we really loved the place and it was worth the expense as the food was outstanding and included in complementary coffee, even though we had a gratis zip line it was still very well worth it.
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Old 09-12-2013, 09:41 PM   #1717
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Originally Posted by Two Moto Kiwis View Post
"In my my experience in international travel which includes, French Caledonia, Thailand, Ozzie, Iceland, Scandy, China, Tibet, Europe, Alaska down to Colombia, Cuba and a few other places my old head can't remember.
oooooh.... now that I have 'permission' for bragging rights.....
My List:-
New Zealand (first!) Sorry, never went back :(
Singapore, Thailand, Hong Kong, Japan(back there next month, ridden around it twice), USSR(as it was then), Finland, Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Germany, Holland, UK(for 4 years), Ireland, France, Lichtenstein(does it count?, Belgium, Italy, Greece, Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, Nepal, Malaysia, Spain, Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Niger, Nigeria, Central Africa Republic, Zaire, Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania, Sudan, Egypt, Vietnam and Fiji. And a little place called Oz.

And stop overs:-
Taiwan, Baghdad-Iraq, Colombo-SriLanka, Rihad-Saudi Arabia, Crete, and the 8th state of Australia, Bali.

Now I feel better with that off my chest :)

cheers
John
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Old 09-12-2013, 11:23 PM   #1718
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You guys are having such an adventure!!! I stumbled on your stream a couple of weeks back and took about a week or more to read about three quarters of it until you were leaving Mexico. I'm soooo jealous.
All the saga's with the bikes and accidents reminded me of Mark Twain' s definition of success. "Ignorance, confidence and filthy rich friends"
Well maybe not the 'Filthy rich friends' but if we weren't ignorant of what we were going to go through, we wouldn't be confident and maybe none of these things would ever be tackled.
Hats off to Ellen for getting as far as she did with so little experience. You guys are legends for persisting.


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Old 09-13-2013, 12:54 PM   #1719
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Originally Posted by TwoUpTourer View Post
oooooh.... now that I have 'permission' for bragging rights.....

cheers
John
Ouwh man that is cheating I only listed them into areas , I am envious of the stans and Africa and is on the too do list .. forgot to mention NZ too
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Old 09-13-2013, 12:58 PM   #1720
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Originally Posted by mettalique View Post
You guys are having such an adventure!!! I stumbled on your stream a couple of weeks back and took about a week or more to read about three quarters of it until you were leaving Mexico. I'm soooo jealous.
All the saga's with the bikes and accidents reminded me of Mark Twain' s definition of success. "Ignorance, confidence and filthy rich friends"
Well maybe not the 'Filthy rich friends' but if we weren't ignorant of what we were going to go through, we wouldn't be confident and maybe none of these things would ever be tackled.
Hats off to Ellen for getting as far as she did with so little experience. You guys are legends for persisting.


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Yeah it has been exciting ... sometimes a little more excitement than we need

We are so lucky we don't fit into the filthy rich category ... apparently we are lucky cos they reckon it changes your life if you win lotto but I would be happy to be a test pilot

Yes if you knew you were going to have an epic prang or get robbed/ripped off etc you probably wouldn't leave home.
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Old 09-13-2013, 05:13 PM   #1721
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Page Shortening post

As it says above
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Old 09-13-2013, 05:23 PM   #1722
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Rio Claro (River clear or in English propa Clear River)

We packed up waved goodbyes and set off for another park only 20 minutes away which is the Parque Tematico Hacienda Napoles which was the home of the biggest baddest drug lord in Colombia and he tried to build the biggest collection of African animals outside of Africa, he was killed in the 80s and now his place is a resort.



The driveway



We rocked up to the gate, the admission fees were a lot, the hotel was alottamoreagain so way over and the extras for parking the moto and extra cost for meals was out there, all in all it was shaping up to be a budget basher of epic proportions so we both agreed that the level of interest compared to the level of cost wasn’t our gig so we carried on.

We decided to google it, it looks like a great place but one thing about RTW travel on a budget is some things do have to go amiss if they are not top of your chart, it becomes a cost/value exercise.

Continuing on we hooked a right and headed to Honda then towards Manizales, well I wanted a photo in Honda just because but with trucks and traffic and keeping my mind on the job we rode straight through and I didn’t even know if ... oh dear.

Rocking into a small town of Mariquita it was later afternoon so we decided to stop there, we found a great hotel with a big courtyard to park Maya in, once settled in we walked into town to find the big footy game on between Colombia and Ecuador and virtually the whole town was wearing yellow tee shirts..they are into it.

We couldn’t believe how many moto shops there are in a small place including the availability of tyre for big bikes.

We had been talking about reshaping our seat so Ellen doesn’t keep sliding forward so I drew some pictures and wrote what we wanted to do, we took Maya in to the shop and had the job done, it cost $20 mil which is about $11 US dollars and works a treat, the only thing that worried me was the seat cushion was very wet so I think the rain is coming in through the stitching.

This is the only pic I have but you get the idea

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Old 09-13-2013, 06:24 PM   #1723
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Mariquita To Manizales

Leaving Mariquita, after the wee rain shower finished





We opted to take a back road through to Salamina, there was mix of shingle road, mud and very nice tar seal, by one way or another we managed to pick our way through the backroads with the help from locals, our map and mrs.garmin.



Spiffing views coupled with a nice day



A little moto ridden by a future GP rider



The little motos can out corner us but when it comes to KTM country we whistle past, parts of the road got slimmy and wet



Everyone should have a rocket in their front yard , here we are in Colombia back yard with a rocket in the front yard



Three on a bike common around here



We got down to our supposed turn off beside the bridge but no road, not even a walking track, see me riding across.



At the abutment there is meat to be a road



Now our paper maps show a road, google maps show it, osm show it, mrs.garmin shows it so wtf whee is it hmmmm.

No biggy we just changed our plan a little, next turnoff was 30 km down the road so no biggy, tanking up and resting for 10 minutes we carried on to our turnoff ....which did not exist, again the road is shown on everything but the building in the middle of the "road" was gona be hard to ride through being concrete...yeah i know harden up and just do it.

Ok, plan m by this stage, this means Manizales which we were meant to be two days away from so thar didn't work very well.

Stopping at roadworks we talked to a dude in a C63 Mercedes out for a hoon, he was up it leaving darkies past us with the sound of a 6.3 liter v8 with lovely sound system and ripping through the twisties like a hot knife through butter, he told us of a nice place to stay out of town so we decided to head there.

Suddenly the stop go chickie turned her lollipop and he was off hussing it up off the line, nice to se a real car being used well,

Continuing on down the hill we turned off and headed up the valley per instructions, this when we met Max on a DR650, we had almost stopped while having a chat, Max stopped and turned around so we had a good kiwi/ozzie chst on the side of the road, he too was looking for acommodationgiven it was 4.45pm so we all headed back down the valley, Ellen had spotted a place not far away.





We discused the options and it worked out way cheaper for three of us in one room so we did that, with a small restaurant down the road we all scrubbed up and went for a local feed and had a chat about bikes and travel.
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Old 09-13-2013, 09:25 PM   #1724
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Wicked Hi Andi and Ellen

I have just read up the last 4 pages , good reading and keep having fun . On your write up on Cuba when you said about people living in there own rubbish made me laugh. Its not what u have in life but the pride u take in what u have that matters aye. Im at a Camiguin Island now , not as poor as other places I have been to here , off to soak in the hot pools now then try and get ABs V SA game on streaming but internet is a bit slow . Take Care and keep the pics and stories coming .
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Old 09-14-2013, 05:08 PM   #1725
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I have just read up the last 4 pages , good reading and keep having fun . On your write up on Cuba when you said about people living in there own rubbish made me laugh. Its not what u have in life but the pride u take in what u have that matters aye. Im at a Camiguin Island now , not as poor as other places I have been to here , off to soak in the hot pools now then try and get ABs V SA game on streaming but internet is a bit slow . Take Care and keep the pics and stories coming .
Heya Toddy, got ya Skype message yesterday but didn't have time to reply...pretty busy ya know

Sounds like you are having fun bro and that is the main thing.

Loving Colombia, it is a very cool place indeed.

Cheers Andi
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