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Old 02-11-2013, 09:28 AM   #616
Drsilver
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My Stryker in Cold Spring NY

My first attempt at HDR.

My 2011 Yamaha Stryker in Cold Spring NY.

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Old 02-11-2013, 09:48 AM   #617
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:35 AM   #618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex76 View Post
Here are a few from my sunset ride tonight (and one from a couple days ago). Still new to the HDR thing but I'm liking it alot so far







Very nicely done! I'd love to know your workflow...

You can tell they are HDR but your blacks aren't blue, your trees and edges aren't "glowing" and your saturation isn't over the top.

I like it!

The last pic almost looks like the north short of Lake Ray Roberts?
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:06 AM   #619
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Not HDR, but edited with Snapseed on iPhone...




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Old 02-11-2013, 11:10 AM   #620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
The last pic almost looks like the north short of Lake Ray Roberts?
Very close! This was a "closed" park by Lake Lavon, Northeast of Dallas and only 15 miles or so from my house. I used three bracketed shots for these, -2, 0, and +2. Combined and edited in Lightroom 4, there is a module called Enfuse that lets you blend the three images and keeps all the RAW data so you can edit how you see fit. Get as crazy or subtle as you want . There are some awesome shots in this thread, HDR is a great way to make everything pop and make us look much cooler than we actually are
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:21 AM   #621
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Thanks for the tip on Enfuse - I've been merging to HDR from lightroom to photoshop and then back to lightroom. I'll check it out
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:27 AM   #622
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex76 View Post
Very close! This was a "closed" park by Lake Lavon, Northeast of Dallas and only 15 miles or so from my house. I used three bracketed shots for these, -2, 0, and +2. Combined and edited in Lightroom 4, there is a module called Enfuse that lets you blend the three images and keeps all the RAW data so you can edit how you see fit. Get as crazy or subtle as you want . There are some awesome shots in this thread, HDR is a great way to make everything pop and make us look much cooler than we actually are
Interesting, I've been along the western shore of Lavon, and I did not see that little dam. Where is it?

I will add, the last time I was there, I was in my truck, and the short fooled me, I though it was fairly dry, had the truck in 4x2, all of a sudden the rear end started sinking, by the time I caught it and got the truck into 4x4L, it was too late. 1-800-friend-with-a-Z71-HD-1500-chevy time ...
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:34 AM   #623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxLoneRider View Post
Interesting, I've been along the western shore of Lavon, and I did not see that little dam. Where is it?

I will add, the last time I was there, I was in my truck, and the short fooled me, I though it was fairly dry, had the truck in 4x2, all of a sudden the rear end started sinking, by the time I caught it and got the truck into 4x4L, it was too late. 1-800-friend-with-a-Z71-HD-1500-chevy time ...
Oops, the Dam was a part of the DFW tag game and is located in Irving, Sorry forgot about that one.
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:17 PM   #624
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Have any of you gents played with the effects of depth-of-field on HDR images?

For example shooting your aperature wide open vs. an F8 or F11?

I think I might have to go experiment a little...
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:57 PM   #625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
Have any of you gents played with the effects of depth-of-field on HDR images?

For example shooting your aperature wide open vs. an F8 or F11?

I think I might have to go experiment a little...
Hey geek, I actually did the other night taking a pic of this church (3.5f on an 18-135mm lens). DOF wasn't really affected, I just needed the extra light. Didn't have my tripod so I needed as fast a shutter as I could get lol

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Old 02-11-2013, 02:02 PM   #626
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Experiment: Aperture and HDR.

For any photography geeks I thought I'd post my results... if you couldn't care less please just scan to the next msg

When taking a photo, depth of field is controlled with your Aperture setting.
A low number (big opening) like 1.8 or 2.5 means you get a very shallow depth of field.
A larger number (small opening) like 8.0 or 11.0 means you get a large depth of field.
If you choose a really large number like F22 .. you'll see the dust on your lens

non-HDR examples:

Shooting F1.8 @ 50mm - notice I've focused on the "500XCW" and the depth of field is shallow. The KTM on the tank is blurry (this blur is often referred to as "Bokeh" in photography).


Shooting F11 - notice now the 500xcw AND the KTM are both in focus.


So why do this experiment?

HDR often leads to "super clear" images.
Shooting with a wide open aperture has a purpose of NOT having the entire photo "super clear" but sections of it super clear.

I was curious as to what would happen when the two styles run into eachother



...to be continued.
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:13 PM   #627
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Some test photos.

I was quick and dirty shooting with a mono-pod so none of these photos are done really well, and the subject isn't that interesting - the goal was to compare the results.

I wrote my own HDR processing script and saved it as a preset in Lightroom 4.1.
Each collection was auto-bracketed by my NEX-7 (-3, 0, +3), opened in Lightroom, merged to HDR in photoshop, and then had my personal preset applied - i.e. the processing of every photo is identical.

The goal wasn't to make remarkable HDR images.. it was to do the exact same thing to the different aperture images of the same item to see what happens.

Results:

Set 1:

50mm - F1.8


50mm - F8




Set 2:

50mm - F1.8


50mm - F11



Set 3:

50mm - F1.8


50mm - F11




Conclusion:





Seriously though...

Depending on your processing style of HDR - the bad things about HDR get exagerated with a shallow depth of field's bokeh regions and the good things about HDR get exagerated in the focal areas.

I think one's particular camera/lens' bokeh quality has a lot to do with it... and the exaggeration that results from merging multiple non-focused elements.

Depending on the boldness of colors, the background can look extra-blotchy from the HDR merge.
Items like straight lines and text that are located in the non-focus area can make the photo look like it was improperly focused due to the HDR sharpen/blend.

Hyper processing cam make a photo look exceptional grainy if large aperture openings are used - so extra care should be taken in the sharpening / smoothing phase of processing.

FWIW.

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Old 02-11-2013, 02:23 PM   #628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex76 View Post
Hey geek, I actually did the other night taking a pic of this church (3.5f on an 18-135mm lens). DOF wasn't really affected, I just needed the extra light. Didn't have my tripod so I needed as fast a shutter as I could get lol

Nice!

That's EXACTLY why I was wanting to try this

Shooting in low light I find I need to open the aperture up to get enough light... I wanted to see if HDR processing was going to "get along" with wide open images or a percentage there of...

...because heaven knows HDR does NOT like ISO noise

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Old 02-12-2013, 11:48 AM   #629
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I've had photography on my brain lately, so that leads to late nights of looking stuff up.

realative to the topic: has anyone tried this app out? https://triggertrap.com/products/triggertrap-mobile/


I guess it can act as an intervalometer. I also see it has a setting for setting up your HDR shots/stops, which is why i'm bringing it up.

They have something listed as hdr time lapse as well, was just curious. The app is free, but the dongle is not.













I have no affiliation with this app, I actually have no affiliation with anything i will ever post on this forum...i'm a roofer
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:13 PM   #630
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Just looked - not NEX-7 compatible
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