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Old 05-17-2012, 08:25 PM   #1
bmwktmbill OP
Traveler
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Traveler
Oddometer: 4,741
KTM 640 Adventure Instrument module problem

Hello everyone.
2002 KTM Adventure.
I am having a problem with my trip reset function. It refuses to reset despite multiple presses on the reset rubber nub. All the other functions work, the fuel warning funcion is disconnected.

Anyone got an idea for how to fix the problem or a link to a thread from the past that delt with the problem?

Thanks in advance.
bill
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:07 PM   #2
Low594
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Location: Oakland, CA
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If i recall this is the orange KTM unit, not the Touratech IMO 100R (see: utter crap) unit, right?! If so, I believe the 950/990 also used that one, so you might adjust your title. Sorry i dont have anything more useful!
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:40 AM   #3
gunnerbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
Hello everyone.
2002 KTM Adventure.
I am having a problem with my trip reset function. It refuses to reset despite multiple presses on the reset rubber nub. All the other functions work, the fuel warning funcion is disconnected.

Anyone got an idea for how to fix the problem or a link to a thread from the past that delt with the problem?

Thanks in advance.
bill
Hi Bill,

I have had problems with mine in the past and did the following to get it working:
I took the plastic cover off the display {4 screws} and sprayed the button posts with electro contact cleaner, worked the buttons and then turned it unit upside down to drain.... I did this several times and then allowed it to dry before replacing the cover to give it a try... Seemed to work every time but be care full only to spray the contact cleaner to the button post area....

Good luck...
David.
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Old 05-18-2012, 10:30 PM   #4
bmwktmbill OP
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Thanks Gunner and all,
I'm on it.
bill
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:22 AM   #5
bmwktmbill OP
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Gunner and all,
Got around to this yesterday, popped the lens off-4 screws, from the front of the instrument(no need to remove it from the dash) and gave the button stalks a spray with dics brake cleaner.

Bingo!!
Started to work immediately.
Cleaned the lens, etc, so nice to heve full function in the various modes back.

Gunner is a genius!!!!
bill
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
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Old 06-21-2012, 04:10 PM   #6
Droptarotter
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: Cloverdale
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Guys...........be careful with Brake Cleaner, I do not think it is the same as Electonic Contact cleaner..............I have had Brake Clean eat some plastics!! YMMV??

Cheers
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HP2 Sport, R1200S, R100S, KTM 640 Adventure, KTM 520 EXC/Motard, Yamaha RZ350, Hodaka 125 Wombat

Droptarotter screwed with this post 06-22-2012 at 02:13 PM Reason: text
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Old 06-21-2012, 11:33 PM   #7
bmwktmbill OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Droptarotter View Post
Guys...........be careful with Brake Cleaner, I do not think it is the same as Electonic Contact cleaner..............I have Brake Clean eat some plastics!! YMMV??

Cheers
Yes I took a chance with brake cleaner, sprayed it on some plastic first. It came with a plastic nozzle and a plastic spray tube for application

I believe it is tetrachloethylene and is the same as electric motor cleaner supplied by CRC. CRC says it's the same stuff.

This is what I used.

http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/cont...?S=Y&PN=05089T

MSDS sheet says it's the same.
bill
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
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Old 07-03-2012, 04:07 PM   #8
bmwktmbill OP
Traveler
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Traveler
Oddometer: 4,741
Guys,
Got another electrical/instrument problem.
Intermitant tachometer operation and intermitant instrument lights operation.
Lights dim, tach drops to zero, then everything starts back up, then it happens again.

Nothing else appears to be affected, my headlight system is far from stock with HID's installed in both hi and lo beams run off relays etc.

Seems like this is a grounding problem to me so I am on the search for a bad connection.

The wiring diagram shows a massive ground connection point below and to the left of # 40 on the 640 LC4 Adventure wiring diagram and also a cround connection #13 and some combination plugs, #29 and 12 and 31.

I will try to locate all of them.
Am I on the right track?

Anyone had this problem?

TIA, bill
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
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Old 07-03-2012, 09:45 PM   #9
It'sNotTheBike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
Guys,
Got another electrical/instrument problem.
Intermitant tachometer operation and intermitant instrument lights operation.
Lights dim, tach drops to zero, then everything starts back up, then it happens again.
TIA, bill


Bill -

It sounds like there are some pins in the cluster harness connector which need cleaning, and maybe the pins in the
cluster itself also need cleaning. I'd guess the intermittent operation is due to the vibration of the bike causing contact
to be made and broken. Obviously you want the contact not to be broken, so everything works properly.

If there is a Radio Shack near you, they probably have some Deoxit in stock. The red stuff is what you want ;
it is a cleaner which is mildly corrosive. Radio Shack usually sells it in a blister pack which also contains the
gold Deoxit. It's good to use the gold Deoxit as the final step in the process, to prevent future corrosion.

I like to use the red Deoxit as step 1 of a three step process. Spray the red Deoxit on
the pins in the connectors and wait about 8 - 10 minutes ( use a stopwatch, you do not want to wait too
long ). Step 2 : use CRC QD electrical cleaner to blast the pins clean. You should be able to buy the CRC
QD at an Autozone or Advance Auto or any other decent auto parts store. The CRC QD is meant for cleaning
electrical contacts, and it dries very quickly.

IMPORTANT : You DO NOT want an open flame or any source of sparks nearby
when you use the CRC QD. It is very flammable and has a very low flash point.

Step 3 : spray the gold Deoxit on the connector pins, and reassemble the connectors,
and test the instruments. Hopefully this will get you back in business.

Whether you use the above potions or not, the idea is to clean oxidation off the
electrical contacts in a manner which does no harm to the connectors. I have in the past
used battery terminal cleaner spray instead of Deoxit, it works in a similar manner by
chemically cleaning the crud off the terminals. But if you can get some Deoxit I'd use that.
After cleaning you want to prevent the pins from corroding, which is best accomplished by
applying something which will prevent oxidation to the pins.

Given the far off riding you do on your 640, if you have time you might disconnect each electrical
connector on the entire wiring harness and clean and treat the pins with anti-corrosion stuff.
This could save you hassles when on a trip. Automatic transmission fluid could be used as a corrosion
preventive if you have some handy. I like to use dielectric grease on some things, like the battery terminals
and the starter terminals, but I have seen it cause poor connections in multi pin connectors because it is thick enough
that it can prevent male and female pins from having good contact, so I prefer to use a light oil in those spots.


.

It'sNotTheBike screwed with this post 07-03-2012 at 10:46 PM
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Old 07-03-2012, 10:11 PM   #10
gunnerbuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
Guys,
Got another electrical/instrument problem.
Intermitant tachometer operation and intermitant instrument lights operation.
Lights dim, tach drops to zero, then everything starts back up, then it happens again.

Nothing else appears to be affected, my headlight system is far from stock with HID's installed in both hi and lo beams run off relays etc.

Seems like this is a grounding problem to me so I am on the search for a bad connection.

The wiring diagram shows a massive ground connection point below and to the left of # 40 on the 640 LC4 Adventure wiring diagram and also a cround connection #13 and some combination plugs, #29 and 12 and 31.

I will try to locate all of them.
Am I on the right track?

Anyone had this problem?

TIA, bill
Hi Bill,
Have a look at your key switch internals if you haven't already... The first time mine went I had similar symptoms as to what your getting...
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Old 07-03-2012, 11:10 PM   #11
bmwktmbill OP
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Location: Traveler
Oddometer: 4,741
Gunner,
Key switch??
That's the worst news yet. I would rather rebuild the engine!!

Every motorcycle I touch needs the ignition switch disassembled.
It's a guarenteed pain in the mind.
Thanks to all.

I'll dig ASAP.
bill
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
bmwktmbill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2012, 11:19 PM   #12
bmwktmbill OP
Traveler
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Traveler
Oddometer: 4,741
Gunner,
Ignition switch??
That's the worst news yet. I would rather rebuild the engine(which BTW is running great after a quick thousand miles)!!

Every motorcycle I touch needs the ignition switch disassembled.
It's a guaranteed pain in the mind.

Thanks for the pin cleaning tout Bike. I usually just squirt a little light oil on the connectors, plug and unplug and call it good. I know, I know...well at least they don't corrode.

I'll dig ASAP and report back.
bill
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
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Old 07-22-2012, 02:19 PM   #13
bmwktmbill OP
Traveler
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Traveler
Oddometer: 4,741
Hi everyone,
The problem is getting worse, now the speedo operation is now affected as well as no dash lights and intermittant tachometer operation.

I have serviced all the multi-plugs to no avail.
Does anyone know the location of the multiple grounds for the instruments, etc. represented by the ground dot on the wiring diagram in the upper area of the wiring diagram located just below item # 40?

I fear a grounding problem rather than a power problem.

Can anyone help?

I will have the tank off tonight and will report any results.

I have not disassembled the ignition switch yet, I wanted to save that for last.
I was unable to see an easy way to remove the ignition lock/switch.

TIA,
bill
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
bmwktmbill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2012, 11:29 PM   #14
gunnerbuck
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: N.V.I, B.C.
Oddometer: 3,731
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
Hi everyone,
The problem is getting worse, now the speedo operation is now affected as well as no dash lights and intermittant tachometer operation.

I have serviced all the multi-plugs to no avail.
Does anyone know the location of the multiple grounds for the instruments, etc. represented by the ground dot on the wiring diagram in the upper area of the wiring diagram located just below item # 40?

I fear a grounding problem rather than a power problem.

Can anyone help?

I will have the tank off tonight and will report any results.

I have not disassembled the ignition switch yet, I wanted to save that for last.
I was unable to see an easy way to remove the ignition lock/switch.

TIA,
bill
Hi Bill,

You don't have to remove the whole ignition switch, just remove the bottom half that houses the electrical contacts... This is easily removed by taking out the 2 philliips screws at the 4 and 7 oclock positions...
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:38 PM   #15
bmwktmbill OP
Traveler
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Traveler
Oddometer: 4,741
Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
Hi Bill,

You don't have to remove the whole ignition switch, just remove the bottom half that houses the electrical contacts... This is easily removed by taking out the 2 philliips screws at the 4 and 7 oclock positions...
Gunner, thanks for that, I'll try it.
bill
__________________
'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered
"On the road there are no special cases."
Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing

The faster it goes the faster it breaks.
And high performance=high maintenance.
Bill Shockley
bmwktmbill is offline   Reply With Quote
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