HELP ME WITH THIS kAWI 650!

[Hawk Medicine]

Guys:

One of my friends just got an unmolested "time capsule" Kawasaki 650 for free and I want to try to help resurect it. The bike was stored in a garage untouched for several years and the engine is now frozen, so we flooded the cylinders with oil and let it sit for a few weeks, hoping that it would loosen up.

We have the keys, the battery is new and the starter solinoid clicks when you press the starter. There is also a nice aftermarket fairing that came with the bike and includes the headlight and turn signals all of which work and the fairing and tank are near perfect. OTOH, I'm having some trouble getting the clutch to actuate properly. In other words, it won't release. The trans shifts perfectly, mileage is almost nill, solid exhaust, good chrome, etc and we don't want to part the bike out yet but the clock is ticking. I know we'll need to replace the intake rubbers, rebuild the brake system, new tires, etc and the owner is up for that but we need to get a running bike. Therefore, we need help.

Now if this was an Airhead, I'd have had it on the road two weeks ago but I'm totally inexperienced with Japanese bikes and could use some advice and help.

Is there an online manual for these bikes?
How does the clutch on these bikes work?
Whats the firing order?

I'm of the opinion that what we need to do next is to get the clutch to work, so that we can try to get the rings to free up.

Thanks in advance.....!

[JeffS77]

sure that aint a 750 twin ?

[Bloodweiser]

rope, zip tie, duct tape, whatever the clutch lever and let it sit for a night or two.
Probably just stuck from sitting, so long as the cable moves freely.

You could try rolling down a hill and popping the clutch in 3rd or so to free it.
Freed a 83 yamaha maxim yesterday just like that.
Fresh battery and wah lah.

[nhmaf]

That sure looks like a Kawasaki 440 LTD that I almost bought back in 1982. From the frame or engine number, you should be able to get the model number if the stickers aren't still in place by the headstock or under the seat.
http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/kaw...0_ltd_1982.php

[Airhead Wrangler]

Wait, is this the former "mind sock" talking?

[MightyChosen1]

I think its a KZ-440 as well. I passed on a running one for $200 a while back because the title was a little "fishy"..


I would try a little PB Blaster in the cylinders. I have heard folks use it on old frozen tractor motors with good results.

[anonny]

Tear it apart and find out what is seized.

[Hawk Medicine]

I looked at the headstock and confirmed that it was a 650 but next time I'm over there I'll take a photo to support that idea.

[Tosh Togo]

Originally Posted by Hawk Medicine

I looked at the headstock and confirmed that it was a 650 but next time I'm over there I'll take a photo to support that idea.

While you're with a camera, take a snap of the engine displacement tag on the engine: it should be somewhere on the front of the engine, near the case split. Look for an odd small flat area with the engine's size in cc's cast on it.


PS- the easy way to break the clutch free is to straddle the bike/engine off/in 2nd or 3rd gear. Pull clutch lever in, then rock the bike back and forth against the frozen clutch until it breaks free.

-The previously suggested method of "rolling down a hill and popping the clutch in 3rd or so to free it" is unwise, and mildly impossible... with the countershaft moving and the mainshaft/clutch frozen, how do you get from second to third?... and that stuck clutch negates the only other third-gear option which is to put it in third, pull in the clutch, and coast....

DAMHIK, but going from neutral into any gear while moving, with the engine off, results in very ugly noises... the countershaft is spinning at a good clip, but the clutch and the mainshaft are stopped.

[Bloodweiser]

^may have been unclear.
The roll and pop is to free the motor,
Not the clutch.

[Tosh Togo]

Originally Posted by Bloodweiser

^may have been unclear.
The roll and pop is to free the motor,
Not the clutch.

True, but the OP's clutch stickification needs to be cured first.

Getting back to the OP... regardless of what size the engine is, you'll have fun.

[Bloodweiser]

Agreed.
I'd try roping it first,
Unless you're short on time or rope.

[JeffS77]

marvel mystery oil..i have used it to free up a few motors..bump it down in the cylinders and let it sit for a day or two

[kz1]

Kawasaki did not make a KZ650 twin. The KZ650 was a four cylinder. I think it is also a KZ440LTD.

+1 on the Marvel mystery oil.

[McJamie]

440 LTD for sure.
We sold them by the truckload in the early eighties. Chain drive would probably make it 81 or 82. 83&84 had belt drive. The 750 twin is much taller, has a disc on the rear, as well as belt drive. They did make a 650 twin, but totally different (Meguro/ W series). And I think 1970 was the last year for them.
You kind of need to be sure before you start ordering parts. Make sure you take the complete serial number with you to the dealer and let them check for sure.