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Old 06-02-2012, 07:56 PM   #16
elgato gordo OP
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Major progress, got the engine put in and some real handlebars.

Just waiting on some longer cables and have to order a custom brake line for the front brake.

Looks like the electrical cables to the hand switches will be long enough since I re-routed them from stock.







and a bracket for the calipers
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Old 06-09-2012, 08:53 PM   #17
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It Runs

No big progress visually but the motor starts and sounds good. Got the SV650A clutch and throttle cables. Clutch is the right length but the throttle cable don't fit my housing on the bars. Had to order an integrated switch/throttle housing that from the A model as well. Odd they use a different housing on the A model. Below are the part numbers for the cables and throttle stuff:

58200-17G00 CABLE ASSY,CLUT
58300-16GA0 CABLE ASSY,THRO
58300-16GB0 CABLE ASSY,THRO
57110-45D01 Grip, Throttle
37200-17G10 Switch, RH+throttle assy
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:37 AM   #18
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Using the SV650 for an adventure bike can result is a great little romper. I built one for my wife a few years back and it was a blast to ride. She is to short for a DL650 so I modded a SV650 to work as a long distance adventure tourer. Used a tourance tire for the rear and a supermoto dunlop up front, added DL1000 bars and 1" risers, Givi faring, stunt crash bars from England, custom panniers from ADVRider, and a bunch of other small stuff. The best part of the SV is there are CHEAP!!! I paid 1500usd for an 06 that was scuffed up on the right side with 2500miles!!! Tough to beat that.









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Old 06-11-2012, 12:19 PM   #19
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How difficult was the SV motor to take down? I've rebuilt a single cyl motor but never a multi. I only ask because I have a DL650 now with 30k on it, at my rate ~25k/yr, I may be doing it in a few years.
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Old 06-11-2012, 01:41 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjm204 View Post
How difficult was the SV motor to take down? I've rebuilt a single cyl motor but never a multi. I only ask because I have a DL650 now with 30k on it, at my rate ~25k/yr, I may be doing it in a few years.
You are just breaking that thing in.

My buddy Kith has an 03 DL1000 and just rolled over 250k on it! Yes a quarter of a million miles and has never been in the engine other than valve checks/adjustments. - http://www.stromtrooper.com/dl-1000-...-write-up.html
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Old 06-11-2012, 01:44 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by RedRaptor22 View Post
Just a shot in the dark here but I once compared my Sv swinger to the one from a wee and it looked it was highly possible that it would bolt up being that it also had the left offset shock, the rest can be cut or turned to fit.
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Originally Posted by elgato gordo View Post
I was looking at that but was not sure that it would help much. Do you know how long the Vstrom swingarm is? I assumed the shock and linkage are about the same. May be a little more travel.

The Vstrom 7.5 project used a Cogent shock so I was going to give them a call and see about using one of their units. I'll have to save my pennies for awhile to swing that.
I don't know the specs off hand, but I can tell you that the 07-11 DL650 swingarm is 10mm longer than the 04-06 DL650 swingarm to accommodate ABS if that helps you at all.
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Old 06-11-2012, 01:50 PM   #22
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Shorter dog bones,will lift the rear some.
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:13 PM   #23
elgato gordo OP
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I agree the SV is really cheap, I've see several at auction sites. Parts are plentiful on FleaBay also. The seat height is still OK even with the YZ forks and GSX shock. Great bike you ave there how do the tires do off-road? I'm looking at Shinko 244 or 700 right now. I like those crash bars, that's up pretty close to the top of the "what's next list".


pjm204
The motor is just like two KTM cylinders and one KTM gearbox. Only hard part was the special bearing tools that none of my local shops had. Once I made a bearing tool and a flywheel holder the work was pretty easy. I was worried about timing of the front and rear cylinders but it all worked out. Drove around the yard a couple of time tonight and it sounds pretty good.
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Old 06-12-2012, 05:00 AM   #24
RedRaptor22
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I don't know if your going to want to use the 244's gordo, they are great tires even though they are shinko's, but I just tore through a rear on the Xr650 in about 1000 miles and it has no power compared to my Sv, plus they are rather soft and flemsy.


I did find one thing stamped into the sidewall that I thought was kinda funny, "DO NOT EXCEED 70MPH"....I went well over that on gravel with them lol.

You may want to check out the 700 I think it is, whichever is between the 244 and 705.



As far as the swingarm, I've been looking at them on ebay and it appears they do have the offset shock, the bearings are the same part number as well, but the spacers and swinger bolt are different part numbers, could'nt find any dimensions on them though, maybe someone will be kind enough to measure their strom swinger width and pivot bolt diameter for you.
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Old 06-14-2012, 03:07 PM   #25
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If the swingarm doesnt go through the motor which it didn't appear to, a ktm exc swingarm like on my cbr project might be a better way to go. They will definitely fit between the frame and you are all set for running a 18"dirt wheel. You can then fit in an upper shock mount with the pds wp shock and eliminate the linkage. Judging by your fab skills should be easy enough. Longer travel set for dirt and a better travel to match your front travel.

I have all the parts and can take measurements if you want them.

I just checked, the swingarm is 24.5" from the center of the pivot bolt to the center of the axle with the adjuster about halfway or maybe 25.5" in total length from pivot to pivot. The swingarm is about 8.5" in width as close as I can measure at the pivot. You'll need to machine a spacer in the middle as they are designed to span an ktm engine. I also had to cut spacers to locate the swingarm in the honda cbr frame. I'm not sure (and can't measure right now) the pivot bolt diameter, but I measured the old honda swingarm and it's a 17mm bore and I don't recall having to sleeve the ktm so I ASSUME the ktm uses a 17mm pivot bolt.

The issues I ran into are:

The CBR motor is wider than the KTM obviously so I have to turn down the SC sprocket to bring the chain closer to the motor, and also made a sprocket spacer to kick the chain out on the wheel end. I got damn near perfect alignment. I would expect your SV would be easier and narrower than the CBR being a 4 cyl.

You'll need to fab up a mount for the upper shock. But you eliminate linkage, the PDS shock works great, easy to get springs for your weight, tons of travel, and the new swingarm should stretch your wheelbase out to a more manageable length than the stocker.

Hope I explained this well, there's pics in my build thread if you want to see how I did it.
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sailah screwed with this post 06-14-2012 at 03:29 PM
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Old 06-15-2012, 07:05 AM   #26
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah View Post
If the swingarm doesnt go through the motor which it didn't appear to, a ktm exc swingarm like on my cbr project might be a better way to go. They will definitely fit between the frame and you are all set for running a 18"dirt wheel. You can then fit in an upper shock mount with the pds wp shock and eliminate the linkage. Judging by your fab skills should be easy enough. Longer travel set for dirt and a better travel to match your front travel.

I have all the parts and can take measurements if you want them.

I just checked, the swingarm is 24.5" from the center of the pivot bolt to the center of the axle with the adjuster about halfway or maybe 25.5" in total length from pivot to pivot. The swingarm is about 8.5" in width as close as I can measure at the pivot. You'll need to machine a spacer in the middle as they are designed to span an ktm engine. I also had to cut spacers to locate the swingarm in the honda cbr frame. I'm not sure (and can't measure right now) the pivot bolt diameter, but I measured the old honda swingarm and it's a 17mm bore and I don't recall having to sleeve the ktm so I ASSUME the ktm uses a 17mm pivot bolt.

The issues I ran into are:

The CBR motor is wider than the KTM obviously so I have to turn down the SC sprocket to bring the chain closer to the motor, and also made a sprocket spacer to kick the chain out on the wheel end. I got damn near perfect alignment. I would expect your SV would be easier and narrower than the CBR being a 4 cyl.

You'll need to fab up a mount for the upper shock. But you eliminate linkage, the PDS shock works great, easy to get springs for your weight, tons of travel, and the new swingarm should stretch your wheelbase out to a more manageable length than the stocker.

Hope I explained this well, there's pics in my build thread if you want to see how I did it.
I can add some info to what Peter said if you want to go this way:

00-03 EXC/SX used a 15mm swingarm axle, 04+ is 17mm.

It doesn't have to be from an EXC, those from an SX(F), XC(F) etc will all work as they are the same castings (for each year), the only difference is the inner width where the engine normally goes but that should matter anyway if it gets replaced by a spacer.
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Old 06-15-2012, 02:45 PM   #27
elgato gordo OP
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Swingarms

My main issue with the KTM S.A. is changing the top sock mount since the frame is cast alum and it would require major re-design. The STROM S.A. may be OK but I can't believe it is a big improvement. If I go longer I think a slide in machined block into the existing would be easy and very strong. I would have to move the axles at least 2 to 3 inches to get aft of the existing cut out for the axle. If I get really wild and crazy I may look into re-design of the link system. The fabrication would be pretty straight forward but the layout could be a lot of hours and require several iterations.

Took a short ride this week on the pavement and I am suprised that is still handles well in the turns with the new geometry.

Just got the new A model throttle housing so I can route the cables properly.

Also have a new YZ fender that will fit up high with just a special bracket to allow it to clear the radiator. That's the project for this weekend.
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Old 06-17-2012, 07:49 PM   #28
elgato gordo OP
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SV650 Adventure Ver 0.9

Pretty much the basic stuff done, at least enough to ride. The throttle cables and housing are a bust since the connector on the one I purchased was an 8 pin and mine is a 10 pin. Funny thing the wiring diagram I downloaded show 10 pin to be 2007 and up, mine is 2005. Also the A model cables are about 1 inch longer, so not that great. So I routed the existing cables the best I could moved the grips inboard as much as possible. Really hate the integrated throttle and switch housing. Looks like you can buy it for about $85 or so. All of the stuff on Fleabay is older. This should work OK.

New cable routing:


Made a special fender mount to allow it to clear the radiator:




Ready to rock:




List of future stuff:
Hi tech lithium battery because of the GSX shock
Steering stop
Tires-Shink 244 or 700?
Headlight
Skid plate/crash bars
Relocate foot pegs and levers
Slip-on muffler

elgato gordo screwed with this post 06-18-2012 at 06:31 AM
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Old 06-17-2012, 10:07 PM   #29
RedRaptor22
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Oh jesus! that fender! You should look into a vented acerbis two peice motard fender like I have on my Xr lol, doubt you will notice much with the amount of rake you have but I know my stock fender was about that size and on the highway up around 60mph+ it went to flopping back and forth pretty good, which traveled straight to the bars and tire lol.

Like doxie said you could simply buy dogbones to level it out if thats all you want to do, I had mine lifted an inch in the rear with a set of bones from Svracingparts.com, but I would'nt go more than that without going with dirtbike style chain tension and a few spare chain sliders because even just an inch changed the swingarm angle enough that the slack to tight variance was on the verge of being unacceptable, plus the extra angle on the swinger changed the rear trail enough to force me to buy a better shock because the first two inches of travel were way stiffer than the last two and a half.

Thats why I reccomend a new swinger, or at least extensions, that way you can get the added travel and not kill your rear rake and trail and the resulting chain path will not destroy chain sliders and possibly force you to install a chain roller.

A heavier spring will probably be needed but maybe not if your going for dirtbike soft feel, I have a shock from i think an 05-06 gsxr 600/750 that will bolt up, but it'll need a lighter spring and it'll lower ride height by about 10mm.
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Old 06-18-2012, 06:29 AM   #30
elgato gordo OP
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THe fender is "large" but tested at speeds up to 75 and not too floopy. I think it all looks strange because of the tiny tire but geometry is pretty close to standard dirt bike that would be about 63 degrees rake.

At the current swingarm angle it would have enough clearance to do 8 inches of travel if I could get a shock that had 90-100 mm of stoke. Seems like that would be Ok for moderate 2-track stuff. I have the GSX 750 1998 on there now. Seems a little stiff but not enough time yet. I have a shock from an SV1000 if I need stiffer spring but would nave to make new dog-bones to adjust the length. These shocks have very little stroke before they hit the bumper. Most shock stroke specs I've seen refer to total stoke if the bumper was not there.

I can fab some new links for the suspension when I nail down the front end a little more. Pretty happy so far, thought I would have to limit the travel and beef the springs. They are way better that the stock ones, and no clunking either.

Specs are acceptable:
Rake = 62
Ground clearance = 9
Seat height = 34

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRaptor22 View Post
Oh jesus! that fender! You should look into a vented acerbis two peice motard fender like I have on my Xr lol, doubt you will notice much with the amount of rake you have but I know my stock fender was about that size and on the highway up around 60mph+ it went to flopping back and forth pretty good, which traveled straight to the bars and tire lol.

Like doxie said you could simply buy dogbones to level it out if thats all you want to do, I had mine lifted an inch in the rear with a set of bones from Svracingparts.com, but I would'nt go more than that without going with dirtbike style chain tension and a few spare chain sliders because even just an inch changed the swingarm angle enough that the slack to tight variance was on the verge of being unacceptable, plus the extra angle on the swinger changed the rear trail enough to force me to buy a better shock because the first two inches of travel were way stiffer than the last two and a half.

Thats why I reccomend a new swinger, or at least extensions, that way you can get the added travel and not kill your rear rake and trail and the resulting chain path will not destroy chain sliders and possibly force you to install a chain roller.

A heavier spring will probably be needed but maybe not if your going for dirtbike soft feel, I have a shock from i think an 05-06 gsxr 600/750 that will bolt up, but it'll need a lighter spring and it'll lower ride height by about 10mm.
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