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Old 05-23-2014, 11:42 AM   #1
BillR1150GS OP
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26 FOOT FLEETWOOD GEARBOX Info?

Tell me about a 26 FOOT FLEETWOOD GEARBOX, any known issues and what to look for. A friend is selling a 2006 that seems to be in good condition but I know nothing about them.
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Old 05-23-2014, 02:44 PM   #2
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You will get some number of answers, but likely limited by the unique brand and model you want to know about.

You might like to look at:

irv2 forums, and the toyhauler section:http://www.irv2.com/forums/f49/

rvnet forums and the toyhauler section: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...m/13516802.cfm

Just these two forums and threads will consume your weekend. Good luck.
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Old 05-25-2014, 03:22 AM   #3
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Same crap different label. Front corners are leaking, windows are leaking, the World Friendship a Power Converter is going to burn out soon, the tires are usually under rated for the weight, and the interior fit and finish is low quality.

If you buy it pm me your email adress so I can send you instructions of how to fix it.
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Old 05-25-2014, 05:07 AM   #4
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Same crap different label. Front corners are leaking, windows are leaking, the World Friendship a Power Converter is going to burn out soon, the tires are usually under rated for the weight, and the interior fit and finish is low quality.

If you buy it pm me your email adress so I can send you instructions of how to fix it.
This isn't Dan's first rodeo. In the last few years before Fleetwood's stock went to $.08/share, and they went tits up, they were building some unusually horrendous shit. I had an '03 that rotted to the point that the ass was sagging, by the end of the two year warranty period. At first Floatwood attempted to deny the claim. By some strange twist of fate, at that exact moment, my dealer was so tired of their garbage, that after nearly thirty years of doing business with them, he told them to "we are no longer doing business, come get their shit". While they were on their knees, begging to not be shown the door, he added a total rebuilt of my unit as one of his demands. My unit was built and rebuilt at the Maryland towables factory. It was bad, but they actually made some of their towables to much lower standards. After, dealing with a string of extremely poorly assembled units, and doing fifty two repairs to a brand new unit, during the pre-delivery inspection, he told Fleetwood that he would no longer be accepting units built in their Texas trailer manufacturing facility, since they were such garbage, he didn't want anything to do with them.

Unless this one is dirt cheap, and you are willing to risk it being heavily rotted inside the ceiling and walls, I would pass. There are many photo rich blogs of total rebuilds of low quality trailers out there. They are enough to make you cringe, and typically even at a DIY labor rate of minimum wage, the wasted time and material far exceed the value of the unit.
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Old 05-25-2014, 06:40 AM   #5
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Thanks, that is what I was wondering. The price is not a bargain by any stretch so I will probably pass. I did spend a couple of hours yesterday looking at new rigs and all I need now is lots of money.
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Old 05-25-2014, 10:11 AM   #6
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Dan,I Don't want to hijack the OP's thread but, are there any quality brands to look for in a smaller toy hauler?
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Old 05-25-2014, 04:31 PM   #7
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Dan,I Don't want to hijack the OP's thread but, are there any quality brands to look for in a smaller toy hauler?
The "better" brands in general, when it comes to trailers are Nash/Arctic Fox, KZ, Jayco and a few others. On the other extreme, a buddy of mine had a Weekend Warrior hauler that was new in '06, or '07. IMHO, that hauler may of been the biggest piece of shit on the planet.
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Old 05-25-2014, 05:20 PM   #8
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On the other extreme, a buddy of mine had a Weekend Warrior hauler that was new in '06, or '07. IMHO, that hauler may of been the biggest piece of shit on the planet.
It is. I have an 06 23 FB Super Light.The only thing 'light' on the POS was the frame. Single wall, press formed sections, 3 separate pieces per side that are riveted and welded to form the base. The fucking tongue has a 3" rise over an 8' span. Makes for an interesting hitch setup. Any trailer longer than a 23' had problems with windows cracking, doors that would stick / not open and leaks galore.

Court documents after the lawsuits describe a "prophylactic fix" for the tongue and how the advertised tongue weights were no where near actual.

I bought mine used; didn't do enough research before I bought it. Having said that, aside from the tongue bend and weight, it's still a POS.
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Old 05-25-2014, 06:39 PM   #9
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Dan,I Don't want to hijack the OP's thread but, are there any quality brands to look for in a smaller toy hauler?
They're all pretty much built the same. Top corners don't have proper overlaps and don't seal, they don't seal the screws under the vinyl insert that they run onto the roof. That's fine on the vertical but flat on the roof water is going to seep in the screws. The window openings are cut too large and they use a foam or rubber gasket on the window and they miss the frame around the corners. Water heater openings are usually cut too big in the corners as well.

Instead of a brand name look for how it's assembled instead. Ideally you want full fiberglass front and rear caps that wrap around the sides and roof by several inches so there is only one molding to seal. You want smooth Filon sidewall preferably in a bonded wall construction as opposed to a hanging wall. Rubber roof is pretty much the industry standard, clean it three times a year and put a UV protectant on it once a year. Check the axle ratings against the actual weight of the trailer fully loaded to make sure they're strong enough, as well as the tires load ratings. Avoid it if it has Lippert Components Axles, they're a very light duty and will bend, they're okay for their rated weight as long as you never hit a speed bump or pothole.

After you buy one pull all the windows out and reinstall them with putty or butyl tape instead of the gasket or foam they misused. Seal the edges of all the moldings etc with an RV formulated sealant. Every two years it will need scraping off and resealing. Every five years the roof sealant will all need to be stripped off and resealed.
Your fridge will last about seven to ten years. Water heater will rust out in six. Appliance circuit boards will give up at random and damn near everyone is using the crap World Friendship Corporation Power Converters which will die a horrible death just outside of its warranty period. Don't bother trying to replace the permanent fuse that's in it, that's only there to keep it from catching on fire, replacing it will cause exploding capacitors.

In a nutshell, they all need work right away, find a floor plan you like and be prepared to spend a couple grand for someone who knows what they're doing to go through it and repair all the issues. Don't bother with the extended warranty, they won't cover a rotten floor and the most expensive thing in the unit is the fridge.
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Old 05-25-2014, 09:39 PM   #10
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It is. I have an 06 23 FB Super Light.The only thing 'light' on the POS was the frame. Single wall, press formed sections, 3 separate pieces per side that are riveted and welded to form the base. The fucking tongue has a 3" rise over an 8' span. Makes for an interesting hitch setup. Any trailer longer than a 23' had problems with windows cracking, doors that would stick / not open and leaks galore.

Court documents after the lawsuits describe a "prophylactic fix" for the tongue and how the advertised tongue weights were no where near actual.

I bought mine used; didn't do enough research before I bought it. Having said that, aside from the tongue bend and weight, it's still a POS.
Super lights are a bad idea all around.

I recall that some/all of the Gearbox units had excessive tongue weight also. The fix was to add weight to the rear, usually in bumper area. While this reduced tongue weight, it also reduced your towable weight.
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Old 05-26-2014, 05:58 AM   #11
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Lance (yeah the truck camper company) has started building and selling toy haulers.

If they can build truck campers which have no external frame, then building a TH on a frame using their technology should result in a good product. They have been building travel trailers for a few years now too.

Lance used insulated and bonded walls with aluminum framing. Nothing to rot.

Just my 2 cents.

Oh yeah, we have had 2 different Lance truck campers and like them.
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Old 05-26-2014, 08:41 AM   #12
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Are the ones that are more like a converted car trailer built any better? Like Play Mor, Vintage, Work & Play, etc? They seem to be more robust but I have no experience with them.
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Old 05-26-2014, 09:07 AM   #13
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I love my Livin-Lite VRV.

http://www.livinlite.com/

My only complaint so far, if you can call it that, is that mine didn't have much in the way of finishing touches like towel bars, TP holder, etc. But it's extremely well built, IMHO. I've had everything from Renegade toters (not great) to Featherlite built Prevost coaches (great, if drive it all the time, not so great if you store it for a few months at a time) to a Fleetwood tag camper to custom built car haulers with living quarters to a fully custom built coach on an HDT cab/chassis.

Now I putter around with the family in this setup:

Untitled by djb_rh, on Flickr

More here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/326438...7633258182887/

But I think the advice above to simply look at how things are constructed as best you can is good, too. I'm sure there are other quality built toyhaulers on the market from smaller companies, you just have to find them. Seems like all the bigger outfits are just under too much pressure and throw things together with questionable quality.


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Old 05-26-2014, 12:11 PM   #14
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I love my Livin-Lite VRV.

http://www.livinlite.com/

My only complaint so far, if you can call it that, is that mine didn't have much in the way of finishing touches like towel bars, TP holder, etc. But it's extremely well built, IMHO. I've had everything from Renegade toters (not great) to Featherlite built Prevost coaches (great, if drive it all the time, not so great if you store it for a few months at a time) to a Fleetwood tag camper to custom built car haulers with living quarters to a fully custom built coach on an HDT cab/chassis.

Now I putter around with the family in this setup:

Untitled by djb_rh, on Flickr

More here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/326438...7633258182887/

But I think the advice above to simply look at how things are constructed as best you can is good, too. I'm sure there are other quality built toyhaulers on the market from smaller companies, you just have to find them. Seems like all the bigger outfits are just under too much pressure and throw things together with questionable quality.


--Donnie





Sweet.

Couple questions,.
How much does that trailer weight?
You have the 3.0l V6 in your Sprinter?
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Old 05-26-2014, 04:59 PM   #15
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Sweet.

Couple questions,.
How much does that trailer weight?
You have the 3.0l V6 in your Sprinter?
If memory serves, the trailer is 3k. The sprinter is the 3.0L diesel, and 2011 and later models (IIRC) are 500/5000 tow rated. Earlier Sprinters are only 350/3500, so watch out buying used if you plan to tow.

It tows this very well, even with 1200 pounds or so of stuff in it.


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