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Old 08-23-2012, 03:06 PM   #121
Kmart
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For whatever it's worth, my intent is to not touch the valves unless I'm really bored in the middle of the winter and have nothing better to do. I have been kinda religious in the past with some of my other bikes to check the valve clearance as recommended. IMO, this is a big hassle with zero rewards. Even when a valve needs a small adjustment (almost never happens), it doesn't make any difference in the real world in terms of perfomance etc...
What my scooter needs is gas, oil, tires and brake pads when required. Adjusting valves every 2.5k miles is way out of line.
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Old 08-23-2012, 03:20 PM   #122
hexnut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kmart View Post
For whatever it's worth, my intent is to not touch the valves unless I'm really bored in the middle of the winter and have nothing better to do. I have been kinda religious in the past with some of my other bikes to check the valve clearance as recommended. IMO, this is a big hassle with zero rewards. Even when a valve needs a small adjustment (almost never happens), it doesn't make any difference in the real world in terms of performance etc...
What my scooter needs is gas, oil, tires and brake pads when required. Adjusting valves every 2.5k miles is way out of line.

Me, I always make sure for if one should get too tight it could hold the valve open enough to burn the valve. But thats just me. And I have found them too tight on occasion.
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Old 08-23-2012, 03:27 PM   #123
sendler
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I will adjust mine at 600 miles to the loose end of the spec. Since they are screw adjusters I can put them anywhere I want. Unlike my CBR250R which has shims and is coming up for it's third valve clearance check at 16,000.
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Old 08-25-2012, 07:37 AM   #124
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nice...
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Old 08-25-2012, 03:20 PM   #125
sendler
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1 round trip to work and some Saturday riding. 6 miles at 65 mph. the rest of the miles at 53 mph. Ran the PCX150 until the last bar started flashing at 121 miles and kept going till 128.5 miles. Filled it on the center stand as much as I could get in which is part way up the neck. 1.299 gallonsUS. 98.9 mpgUS.

sendler screwed with this post 08-25-2012 at 03:25 PM
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Old 08-25-2012, 08:02 PM   #126
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1 round trip to work and some Saturday riding. 6 miles at 65 mph. the rest of the miles at 53 mph. Ran the PCX150 until the last bar started flashing at 121 miles and kept going till 128.5 miles. Filled it on the center stand as much as I could get in which is part way up the neck. 1.299 gallonsUS. 98.9 mpgUS.
Seeing as you ride like I do. Cruising around 50 and the occasional push. If you do end up doing the 600mi valve change can you report back if they needed to be adjusted?

I may do it I just don't want to open it up to find that they're fine.
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Old 08-28-2012, 05:40 AM   #127
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Second monitored fill on my 80 mile round trip back country commute. 96.5 mpgUS. Rainy and slower on the way home. The tires stick ok in the rain with still no slipping under hard braking. The rear did move out a little more than my CBR250R does in the wet. I'm surprised that despite the amount of wind you feel on your legs, my pants stayed pretty dry. The high beam is better than many cars.
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Old 08-28-2012, 03:38 PM   #128
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Originally Posted by hexnut View Post
Me, I always make sure for if one should get too tight it could hold the valve open enough to burn the valve.
It's a single cylinder. If a valve gets tight it won't start. Also it's a Honda. My Valkyrie is 12 years and 48,000 miles overdue on its valve check. I once checked a first generation Gold Wing's valves after 28 years of neglect. All eight were on the money.
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:52 PM   #129
hexnut
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Some have shims and some have screw adjusters. Shims stay in adjustment much longer. As the valves wear in the seat they tighten up.

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1589021

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...ave-on-running

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...questions.html

http://www.vw-resource.com/valve_adjust.html
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:45 AM   #130
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Tried to run the PCX out of gas while carrying a fuel bottle but didn't have time to keep going. I made it to 149.5 miles and added 1.538 gallonsUS at the fill up for 97.2 mpgUS. Maybr Satyrday I can run it dry to determine the true tank capacity and fuel remaining when the last bar starts to flash. The last couple bars on the fuel gauge go by too quickly to be useful. Something like 12 miles for the 4th, 8 miles for the the 3rd, and 6 miles for the 2nd to last. Maybe 6 more miles on the last bar before it starts flashing but then it will flash for 35 miles. I am close to 100 mpgUS so you can translate all of those miles remaining roughly into .01 gallonsUS remaining.
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600 miles already. Time for the first service. Will change to Mobil 1 4T or I might even try regular Mobil 1 since there is no wet clutch. The valve clearance check up is due but it might be a couple more weeks before I get around to tackling that.
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The tires tend to shake at speeds over 55 sometimes. Other times not so much. There aren't any wheel weights on either wheel. Rather than make my service department tear the wheels off to balance them, I am going to try some Dynabeads in the tires. I also started to detect a very slight steering head oscillation at 65 mph that starts with the tire vibration. Just barely noticeable.
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A scooter's low center of gravity and a seating position which is less conducive to sticking out a knee or hanging off the seat means more lean angle for any given curve than a sport bike. My tires show only the slightest chicken strips remaining unused even though I don't do any hard cornering.
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:57 AM   #131
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I use Mobil 1 4T 10W40 motorcycle oil only because it has a lot more anti-wear additives in it (ZDDP) than regular Mobil 1.
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Old 09-02-2012, 08:12 PM   #132
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Another good tank done. 150.9 miles and 1.525 gallonsUS for 99 mpgUS.
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I did my first oil change at 715 miles with automotive Mobil 1 5W40. Let's see if that makes any difference.
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I got my Koso tach installed.
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http://www.kosonorthamerica.com/new/...i-rpm-meter-4/
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I only had to take off the windshield panels to feed the cable down and could reach in through the spark plug access panel to wire it up It is a really simple instal as this model is powered by a button battery so it only needs the red wire to be wrapped round and round the plug wire for inductive pick up, and a ground which I crimped on an eye and bolted with the valve cover bolt. Don't forget the front of the engine pivots up and down, opposite of the rear wheel, so leave enough slack in the main cable before tie strapping it down. The programming had to be set to ".5" which shows that the PCX ignition system does not use a waste spark. The refresh rate is speced at <.5 sec and it is happily much quicker than that and seems to be just right. Not too jumpy to read but not so slow that it is missing things. The only draw back to the easy installation due to on board power , is the lack of any back light. It works perfectly with the only drop outs occurring during decel fuel shut off for some reason. It comes on automatically each time it sees a spark signal and records the max rpm. A normal rider doesn't need a tach but I might end up playing with the trans so it is good to know the rpm.
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This also answers the question of the limiting that I feel at the top speed of 68 mph. That is evidently the smooth application of the rev limiter at 9,600 rpm.
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My PCX150 variator pulls at 6,800 when cold and 6,600 after the belt warms up during hard acceleration below 50. 50mph is already pretty well "locked up" at the top of the pulley and runs at 7,000 rpm on flat ground while occasionally showing 6,800 when coasting down hill. I may decide to raise the pulling rpm from 6,600 to 7,000 with different weights or by shimming the spring in the back pulley.
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:54 AM   #133
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Good to know the max speed is tied to the rpm, not the speed (as has been previously speculated). It might make adding top speed mods easier.

If you're planning on trying to swap some weights, I've heard good reports about DR Pulleys, you could try those. I'm going to let my drive belt go for another couple thousand miles, then open her up and replace the drive belt with a new one and replace roller weights with DR Pulleys.
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Old 09-10-2012, 05:33 PM   #134
Rub-a-Dub
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Ground clearance

Hi All, I am looking for a scooter to do commuting around town (40 mile/day) and I am between the PCX 150 or the Zuma 125. I've ridden the yamaha and was not very impress with the comfort. Some of our local roads are not the best and there are a couple dirt roads (no rocks). I like the looks of the PCX150 and the fact that it has 14"wheels. I would like to know the ground clearance of the PCX and if any of you have taken the bike on a gravel/dirt road?
Cheers
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Old 09-10-2012, 06:32 PM   #135
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Originally Posted by Rub-a-Dub View Post
Hi All, I am looking for a scooter to do commuting around town (40 mile/day) and I am between the PCX 150 or the Zuma 125. I've ridden the yamaha and was not very impress with the comfort. Some of our local roads are not the best and there are a couple dirt roads (no rocks). I like the looks of the PCX150 and the fact that it has 14"wheels. I would like to know the ground clearance of the PCX and if any of you have taken the bike on a gravel/dirt road?
Cheers
I would say its about 6" of ground clearance. I've taken it briefly on gravel/dirt. It rides pretty competently you just have to be careful. The tail will slide if you're not careful on the throttle this could easily solved with a tire swap though. Comfort wise I really haven't had a problem, but i'm also not too picky in terms of seats.
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