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Old 10-13-2013, 09:09 AM   #76
vtwin
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: NorCal
Oddometer: 7,299
Silly question, but it looks like the sleeve isn't quite lined up with the bolt hole in the picture.

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Old 10-13-2013, 02:00 PM   #77
cb200t OP
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Location: Bellefontaine, OH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtwin View Post
Silly question, but it looks like the sleeve isn't quite lined up with the bolt hole in the picture.
Nope, not silly. The sleeve for whatever reason isn't lined up with the block. I don't know why, it was like that when I disassembled the engine. It doesn't interfere with anything, and slides down the stud easily without hitting so I guess it doesn't hurt anything. Also, to fix it I would have to heat the cylinders up in the oven to try and correct it. Since it doesn't seem to be hurting anything, I wasn't too concerned
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:35 PM   #78
NJ-Brett
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Location: Southern New Jersey
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Yes, its looking really good!
What a lot of iron in those sleeves!
Plated bores these days, all that iron has to hold in some heat!
Makes you want to bore about a 1/2 inch out of those things.

Very interesting contrast between old motors and new, the thick sleeves, the long heavy full length pistons, the big thick rings over the modern thin ones...
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Old 10-13-2013, 10:17 PM   #79
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They actually aren't as thick as they look, what you see is a lip. The cylinder itself isn't nearly that thick :

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Old 10-31-2013, 12:30 PM   #80
Hannda
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Location: Not yet far enough away from town
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Looking great! I had the ugly puke-green model. Great little commuter.
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Old 11-02-2013, 06:06 PM   #81
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Two-fer post since I forgot to post earlier this week. On Monday I decided to try and clean out the oil slinger and screen. In attempting to get the right cover off, a screw head stripped (despite using impact screw driver, the head was rusted). So I had to drill it out. Okay, no problem should be smooth sailing here on out. Well, I managed to get the Phillips screw out of the slinger cap, and threaded the wrong size bolt in to the hole. I should have used an 8mm, and I used something smaller. :roll: I wrenched it down and it broke off inside up against the crank :shock: :o So, I tried making a "tugger-tool" out of a couple of hooks and some chain using a trailer hitch to "jerk" it out. The cap didn't budge. I tried threading an 8mm bolt into the threads on the slinger cap, stripped the threads. By this point I have lost my "zen" and used an open end wrench to pop the slinger out, ruining the bearing surface unfortunately. I decided to just shine a light up and look at the oil screen rather than taking the pump off etc. It looked fine. Not going to mess with it. So here I am chasing down a slinger cap, ordering O-rings from china and buying a removal tool off amazon. :

Fast forward to today. I attempt to put my chain on...and end up spending another $100. My lovely new o-ring chain came in the mail yesterday while I was away at class. Great, should bolt right on!! Not. First it was too long. So I looked for a chain break, and found one...for more than I wanted to spend. So I dremeled the pin down and used a punch to knock the pin out and shorten the chain. Perfect, it has a little clip, I'm golden! Not. It required me purchasing the chain break kit I was trying to avoid buying in the first place. Oh well, now I have it. So as soon as that arrives I'll finish the chain. I did get the chain guard on, and the wiring harness roughly put in place. I need to put the rest of the electronic stuff on still, but I can only afford to work on the bike for an hour a day, slow going. I did get the float height set on the carbs, and "bench sync'd" so they are ready to bolt on.
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Old 11-02-2013, 06:06 PM   #82
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Location: Bellefontaine, OH
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I ended up staying up until 0100, but I got the bike nearly all put back together. I ran into a couple issues with the wiring harness, but Sonrier has been awesome helping me out. I would have no hesitation buying anything from him again. Excellent customer service. I just need to get the engine finished, make my air filter extensions and finish the wiring. Then the bike is back together!! Hard to believe!! To summarize, I put the chain on, ignition switch, horn, R/R (redid the original mounting holes since it's Sonrier's unit), wiring harness, chain guard, new coil, indicator and solenoid, and new foot peg rubber.

Still to do: new oil slinger cap/oring, button up right case, run the clutch, tach, throttle and speedo cable, make the bracket for the hydro front brake, hang the exhaust, set the point gap and timing, finish the wiring, drill the new handle bar for the controls, mirrors, fit the petcock to the tank and install it, make the pod-filter extensions, tighten everything and make sure cotter pins are where they are needed, fire it up!!

During this project I have purchased a lot of tools, I'll share a list:
Wheel balancer
Torque wrenches (two different ones)
Carb float height tool
Tire levers
Chain breaker/press/compressor
IJS screw drivers/bits
Impact screw driver
Digital caliper
Bench grinder
Dremel
Carb Sync (present from parents)
Timing light
Dental picks
Valve spring compressor (not what you'd think, it was to remove the spark advance unit)
Feeler gauges
Valve lash adjustment tool (AWESOME!!!)
1 tonne press (bench top)
Vise (miniature clamp on type)
Feeler gauge handles (convenient for having the spark plug and valve lash feeler gauges handy)

I have probably spent a lot more redoing this bike than a lot of other people. I often wonder if the money was worth it, and I mentioned this to Steve. As he said however, "the experience and satisfaction and pride gained was worth it". As a new rider and this being my first bike, I think a 200 was not a bad choice. I also have learned from reading countless other posts to NOT ever sell this thing. Too many people regret selling their first bike and their first resto. If/when I get another bike, this one will be kept, and ridden regularly.

I'll post more updates and pictures as things progress. Thanks for following along.

BTW, if you thought the tool list was long...the parts list dwarfs it. :shock:
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Old 11-02-2013, 06:07 PM   #83
cb200t OP
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Made an air cleaner mod for my CB tonight so that I could use UNI foam filters and keep the side covers. The goal of the bike is to look stock. I used a 3" long section of aluminum pipe and a 3" long section of silicon turbo charger hose. Press them together to leave a bit sticking out of the one end for the air filter to sit on and you can push the other end of silicon hose on the other end. Credit to the thread where I found this: Do The Ton.

Materials
-6" 1.25" OD pipe.
-6" 1.25" ID silicon hose Can be found here
-2x UNI foam pod filters
-hose clamps.

1. Cut the aluminum and silicon tube into 3" lengths.
2. Grind the ID of the aluminum sections to make them a little bit tapered, clean up burrs. Clean up all aluminum dust from inside the tube.
3. Push the aluminum section into the silicon section so that 1/2"-3/4" is sticking out one end and equally as much silicon tube is sticking out the other end; they should be offset.
4. Oil the UNI filter and push it on the exposed aluminum end. Hose clamp.
5. Push the silicon end on the carb; hose clamp.
6. Replace side cover.
7. Be done.

Pictures:















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Old 11-02-2013, 06:08 PM   #84
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Set the point gap and the timing today. I was told I could do it with a little static timing light, but don't fiddle for too long as the as the coil can burn out. I am not even to the point where I can hook the battery up and have current to anywhere, so I used my volt meter and used the resistance setting. If they touched, the needle moved. If they didn't, it sat still. This way I could still set my gap and timing and not worry about the coil or the fact that I haven't got the wiring set up yet.

On that note. I HATE WIRING. There is literally nothing in the world I hate more than wiring (okay, that's not true, but for dramatic effect it is). I don't understand it, I don't like how finicky it is, I don't like how if you don't wrap something it stresses the union of the wires, or rubs through and shorts out. I don't like the way you have to have perfect grounds, I don't like how everyone seems to think it's okay to rig something to "Just work" which causes me headaches later on, I just hate wiring. Oh, and being color blind sucks too. Rant off.
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Old 11-02-2013, 06:08 PM   #85
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Right side is buttoned back up. I got my O-rings from China (they're red??) and cleaned out the oil slinger. Put it back on the bike, bent a couple of the pins down on the washer and put the screw back in. Cleaned the gasket surfaces and put the case cover back on. I finally got to put on the shiny new allen head engine bolts! I put in fresh oil and with an oil pan under the left side, started kicking. I kicked for a couple minutes and still no oil to the head. I did lube everything up w/ assembly lube, so I'm not desperately concerned as I know it takes a minute to get up there so I'll keep kicking until I see oil on both sides of the head.
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Old 11-02-2013, 06:27 PM   #86
MacNoob
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No electric starter? I'd probably remove the plugs so the engine will spin faster - wouldn't be surprised if you NEVER get oil to the top just kicking.
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Old 11-02-2013, 06:29 PM   #87
cb200t OP
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Location: Bellefontaine, OH
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No electric starter? I'd probably remove the plugs so the engine will spin faster - wouldn't be surprised if you NEVER get oil to the top just kicking.
Heh, it has an electric starter, I just don't have the wiring hooked up to the point where I could use the starter. That's the next task.
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Old 11-02-2013, 06:50 PM   #88
McJamie
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Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Courtice, Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb200t View Post
Made an air cleaner mod for my CB tonight so that I could use UNI foam filters and keep the side covers. The goal of the bike is to look stock. I used a 3" long section of aluminum pipe and a 3" long section of silicon turbo charger hose. Press them together to leave a bit sticking out of the one end for the air filter to sit on and you can push the other end of silicon hose on the other end. Credit to the thread where I found this: Do The Ton.

Materials
-6" 1.25" OD pipe.
-6" 1.25" ID silicon hose Can be found here
-2x UNI foam pod filters
-hose clamps.

1. Cut the aluminum and silicon tube into 3" lengths.
2. Grind the ID of the aluminum sections to make them a little bit tapered, clean up burrs. Clean up all aluminum dust from inside the tube.
3. Push the aluminum section into the silicon section so that 1/2"-3/4" is sticking out one end and equally as much silicon tube is sticking out the other end; they should be offset.
4. Oil the UNI filter and push it on the exposed aluminum end. Hose clamp.
5. Push the silicon end on the carb; hose clamp.
6. Replace side cover.
7. Be done.

Pictures:















I did the same sort of thing with my CB360T. I removed the air box, but because of the frame rails, I had to keep the rubbers from the back side of the carbs, and clamped the filters right to them. So then the filters still sat behind the side covers. Unfortunately the bike is long gone, so I have no photos of it. It seemed to work quite well though.
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Old 11-02-2013, 06:54 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McJamie View Post
I did the same sort of thing with my CB360T. I removed the air box, but because of the frame rails, I had to keep the rubbers from the back side of the carbs, and clamped the filters right to them. So then the filters still sat behind the side covers. Unfortunately the bike is long gone, so I have no photos of it. It seemed to work quite well though.
Thanks for the heads up. I will probably try and clean up the aluminium pay to make them smoother. Very concerned about getting it started first though :-)

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Old 11-02-2013, 08:26 PM   #90
NJ-Brett
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I used metal drain pipe from Home Depot, nice chrome, but you can not see it.
I used the original tube from the carb to the air box because its offset alot to get it to the airbox, which I kept as its a dirt bike (XT200).
I used the same pod filter though, as the original system was a leak ready to happen, and really small.

Depending on how you have to do it, radiator hose also works, and you can get it with various bends.
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