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Old 09-13-2012, 09:18 AM   #526
Bronco638
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Itasca, IL
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WANTED - Stock Air Box - 1996-Present

I'll post in the FM but if anyone has a stock, unmolested air box (with or without snorkel), I'm looking for one. Thanks.
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:52 AM   #527
bouldertag
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Utah
Oddometer: 433
Rear Brake pads

I messed up and think I got some WD 40 on my rear rotor or must have as after cleaning chain I went for a ride and I have less braking power. Pushes way low to connect to slow me down. No instant stop anymore.

So I figured I was an idiot and didn't check to see if any of my spray went on the rotor.

Basically my question is How do you clean it off or take care of this? I rode highway speeds for an hour after cleaning and oiling chain so it is basically embedded within the left pad i believe.

I really don't want to buy new pads i have 5k on my bike so far but pads look great.

Friend says to use brake cleaner on the pad with 200 grit sand paper lightly.

Any better ideas or is this good?

boulder
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:54 AM   #528
Rob.G
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Location: Fulltiming in an RV!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bouldertag View Post
I messed up and think I got some WD 40 on my rear rotor or must have as after cleaning chain I went for a ride and I have less braking power. Pushes way low to connect to slow me down. No instant stop anymore.

So I figured I was an idiot and didn't check to see if any of my spray went on the rotor.

Basically my question is How do you clean it off or take care of this? I rode highway speeds for an hour after cleaning and oiling chain so it is basically embedded within the left pad i believe.

I really don't want to buy new pads i have 5k on my bike so far but pads look great.

Friend says to use brake cleaner on the pad with 200 grit sand paper lightly.

Any better ideas or is this good?

boulder

Funny, my DR's rear brake has always been like this... VERY annoying. I've rebuilt it, adjusted it, used a braided line, new pads, etc. Nothing fixes it. And my KLX250S uses the EXACT same master cylinder and it works like a charm. Sure wish I could fix it.

Rob
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:21 AM   #529
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bouldertag
I messed up and think I got some WD 40 on my rear rotor or must have as after cleaning chain I went for a ride and I have less braking power. Pushes way low to connect to slow me down. No instant stop anymore.

So I figured I was an idiot and didn't check to see if any of my spray went on the rotor.

Basically my question is How do you clean it off or take care of this? I rode highway speeds for an hour after cleaning and oiling chain so it is basically embedded within the left pad i believe.

I really don't want to buy new pads i have 5k on my bike so far but pads look great.

Friend says to use brake cleaner on the pad with 200 grit sand paper lightly.

Any better ideas or is this good?

boulder
A long time ago, far, far away.......I used to race cars. The rear brake shoes used to get soaked in gear oil because of crappy seals on my rear hubs.

Anyway, I used to have the shoes put in a vapor de-greaser. Not every auto shop has one of those any more. However, WD40 is nothing like gear oil. I would suggest hitting them with Brake-Klean and then baking them in a warm (200-250º F) oven for an hour or so (provided your wife/significant other is on-board with this). Yes, you read that right. Or, if you have a friend that stick welds, they may have a welding rod oven. Use the same procedure. WD40 is pretty light weight oil and the heat should bake it right out of the brake pad material. Don't forget to clean your rotor, too.
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Old 09-13-2012, 12:52 PM   #530
GaThumper
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Location: Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
I didn't get the chance to look at my DR last night. I got home too late, from picking the bike up from the dyno, to have a look (39 hp @ 6K, BTW!).

The brown wire should be power (+). The black w/white tracer should be ground (-).

Let me throw another thought at you; are you still using the stock speedometer? If not, you could use the pigtail for the speedo back-light. That's right, if you've ditched the stock speedo, there's another pigtail with switched power. I'm running a Vapor, if you haven't figured that out yet. The speedo back-light pigtail is gray (+) and black w/white trace (-).

I believe you crimp the ends on the wires and then insert them into the connector. There should be a "barb" on the wire end that snaps into the connector to hold it in place. You could also double check with Vintage Connections, too. Perhaps there's instructions on their web site?

How much do you want for a connector pair and a set of crimp-on connector pins?
I probably couldn't get them to you any cheaper than Vintage Connections. The connectors were $2 each including 3 of each connector, and they only wanted $3.30 shipped to me in Georgia, I went ahead and got 5 pair for $12.20 shipped. I've got plans for making a few different sets and might only have one extra, but they are so inexpensive from V.C. anyway...

I still have the stock speedometer, but that's good info for anyone that doesn't. I just wish it wasn't switched, but I'm going to use it any for my GPS. I'm tired of managing on the internal battery!

At some point I've decided to go with an HBD top clamp with some power outlets and switches and will power from the battery, but for now it will be good to have the GPS charging while the switch is on.
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Old 09-13-2012, 01:01 PM   #531
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper View Post
I just wish it wasn't switched, but I'm going to use it any for my GPS. I'm tired of managing on the internal battery!

At some point I've decided to go with an HBD top clamp with some power outlets and switches and will power from the battery, but for now it will be good to have the GPS charging while the switch is on.
My gps tended to lock up when powered from the spare connector behind the headlight. I tapped the power lead going to the ignition switch instead, and the Montana hasn't locked once since then.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 09-13-2012, 01:51 PM   #532
sandwash
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Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Flagstaff Az
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bouldertag View Post
I messed up and think I got some WD 40 on my rear rotor or must have as after cleaning chain I went for a ride and I have less braking power. Pushes way low to connect to slow me down. No instant stop anymore.

So I figured I was an idiot and didn't check to see if any of my spray went on the rotor.

Basically my question is How do you clean it off or take care of this? I rode highway speeds for an hour after cleaning and oiling chain so it is basically embedded within the left pad i believe.

I really don't want to buy new pads i have 5k on my bike so far but pads look great.

Friend says to use brake cleaner on the pad with 200 grit sand paper lightly.

Any better ideas or is this good?

boulder
Just suck it up as a dummy move(been there,done that) and buy another set of pads,they are cheap and worth your life.If you were in a bad way,then yes do as the poster suggested.
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Old 09-13-2012, 02:22 PM   #533
eRRmmm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
I would suggest hitting them with Brake-Klean and then baking them in a warm (200-250º F) oven for an hour or so (provided your wife/significant other is on-board with this). Yes, you read that right. Or, if you have a friend that stick welds, they may have a welding rod oven. Use the same procedure. WD40 is pretty light weight oil and the heat should bake it right out of the brake pad material. Don't forget to clean your rotor, too.
Read this first:

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

Choose your brake cleaner carefully, read the label and the MSDS

http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/cont...?S=Y&PN=05089T

then conduct a risk assessment on the possibility that you could create toxic phosgene gas in your kitchen (by the time you smell it you're too late).


Or just buy new pads.
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Old 09-13-2012, 07:42 PM   #534
bouldertag
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Mucho appreciated Brake issue wisdom

Rob. G-Ya I heard that. But mine was working pretty good. It would bite just by a half of an inch foot press. Now it is two to three inch press or more to get same bite.

Bronco638- Makes me feel better it was just WD40. Love to have a brew with you and hear about your racing stories-ha a long time ago far, far away…Makes me wonder what type of cars you raced. Pretty cool. Thanks for your knowledge.

Sandwash- Right its lurking in my mind to just purchase..thanks

HerrMnn- Holy Shit Man!! OK don’t heat up brake cleaner! Wow!! Just put it on your rotor in case your having tailgaters messing with you on your bike then ride with brakes on a bit and smoke them out…Jeez that’s psycho!

Thanks all! Great info!


boulder
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Old 09-14-2012, 01:15 AM   #535
Tyrepower
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Location: Perth WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bouldertag View Post
I messed up and think I got some WD 40 on my rear rotor or must have as after cleaning chain I went for a ride and I have less braking power. Pushes way low to connect to slow me down. No instant stop anymore.

So I figured I was an idiot and didn't check to see if any of my spray went on the rotor.

Basically my question is How do you clean it off or take care of this? I rode highway speeds for an hour after cleaning and oiling chain so it is basically embedded within the left pad i believe.

I really don't want to buy new pads i have 5k on my bike so far but pads look great.

Friend says to use brake cleaner on the pad with 200 grit sand paper lightly.

Any better ideas or is this good?

boulder
I should be dead!!!! Every time I ride my bike off road or when wet. After cleaning the thing I soak it in WD40 or a Silicone type spray depending on what is close at hand when I need to spray. Whilst not trying to deliberately spray it on the rotors I certainly don't mask them off. I spray the hubs,spoke nipple, and anything else black and metal looking. All I do is make sure I squeeze the brake a bit harder when next out to burn off any residue that may have found it's way onto the rotors. I live on top of hill so need brakes by the time I get to the T intersection at the bottom of the hill or I would not be typing this now. Not recommending it to others to do as a practice, just saying I think some people worry to much about this when it mostly burns off very, very quickly. I have been doing this for 20 plus years now and still race dirt bikes. That's my HL500 race bike in my Avatar. Whilst this has drums, they get the same soaking and some would surely make its way onto the shoes. Mind you I have over shot some hole shot first corners, but always catch up under brakes in the next lap or two.
Cheers Richo.
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Old 09-14-2012, 01:18 AM   #536
Tyrepower
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Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh it's on again on the other thread.
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It's all good fun until someone gets hurt......... then it's hilarious!!!
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Old 09-14-2012, 07:07 AM   #537
Bronco638
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Location: Itasca, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaThumper
I probably couldn't get them to you any cheaper than Vintage Connections. The connectors were $2 each including 3 of each connector, and they only wanted $3.30 shipped to me in Georgia, I went ahead and got 5 pair for $12.20 shipped. I've got plans for making a few different sets and might only have one extra, but they are so inexpensive from V.C. anyway...
I was just teasin' anyway.

I have a Tourtech power kit for my Garmin GPS units. It has the connector that plugs directly into the back of the Garmin unit. I started out with the GPS V which had known issues with running on batteries (the terminals would get carbon-covered and cease working). I have a 60Cx now that does not have those issues and actually runs just fine, for long periods of time, on batteries. Tapping directly into power isn't a bad idea. The GPS unit shouldn't pull that much current anyways.
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There are some simple thruths......and dogs know what they are - Joseph Duemer

Andy holds the lead. And he will, all the way to the Highway. Today is his day.
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Old 09-14-2012, 07:12 AM   #538
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bouldertag
Bronco638- Makes me feel better it was just WD40. Love to have a brew with you and hear about your racing stories-ha a long time ago far, far away…Makes me wonder what type of cars you raced. Pretty cool. Thanks for your knowledge.
I started out in SCCA F Production in a 1967 Austin-Healey Sprite Mk IV (same as an MG Midget Mk III). After doing that for three seasons (2 at the Regional level, one at the National level), I "graduated" to SVRA and a 1966 Shelby GT-350. I even got my Dad into it (he raced another GT-350). It got to the point where if you didn't get Jack Roush to build you a $40K motor, you weren't going to even finish in the top 50% of the cars entered (and that was close to 60 cars at some events). So, it was time to "retire". Most of my racing was done in the Northeast; Lime Rock, Pocono, Watkins Glen, Summit Point, Bryar (aka NHIS) and Indianapolis Raceway Park. I've also spent some time in an SCCA Improved Touring car at Blackhawk Farms - ITB Datsun 510 (IL) & Gratten - ITB Volvo 144 (MI).
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There are some simple thruths......and dogs know what they are - Joseph Duemer

Andy holds the lead. And he will, all the way to the Highway. Today is his day.

Bronco638 screwed with this post 09-14-2012 at 07:19 AM
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Old 09-14-2012, 07:15 AM   #539
Bronco638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrepower
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh it's on again on the other thread.
What other thread?
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There are some simple thruths......and dogs know what they are - Joseph Duemer

Andy holds the lead. And he will, all the way to the Highway. Today is his day.
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Old 09-14-2012, 07:26 AM   #540
doug s.
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What other thread?
the thread w/the most useful info about dr650's...

doug s.
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