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Old 10-14-2012, 10:19 PM   #646
Adv Grifter
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Location: Passing ADV Stalkers in California
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If you use a true "Heat Troller" (patented) then the pulse system really is more efficient for heated gear, according to the owner of Warm & Safe, which now sells through First Gear or Tourmaster. (can't recall which).

I've tested it both ways and the Heat Troller is clearly better.

With the Troller you will get MORE HEAT and use LESS POWER than just switching your electric gear On or off.

The DR650 only puts out about 200 watts total and a Heat Troller helps make the most of those meager Watts.

I also run a headlight ON/OFF switch and an 35W HID light. I can run my Gerbing jacket (77 watts) at 100% and heated grips on HI (27 watts), battery has never gone dead over four or five hours of running.

But in Day Time running, to get Max output/warmth, I switch off my headlight. The required daytime "Headlight On" rule is rarely, if ever enforced here in California. Canada may be different.

At night (with stock 55 Watt headlight on) with both grips and heated jacket on, your battery will get low in about 3 hours running with everything at 100%. If you have an "Electric Vest" it may go longer.

Electric Jackets are better than Vests ... heating your arms and wrists ... which helps keep your hands warm. With headlight off you could also add electric gloves ... and the system could handle it.

I don't have electric gloves but have tested them. HEAVEN!

With my 35 watt HID, Gerbing set at 75% and grips on HIGH, I can ride all night. (I've done it ... over 8 hours) No battery problems.

But for Canadian cold you'll need 100% Power to be safe.
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Old 10-15-2012, 04:05 AM   #647
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
If you use a true "Heat Troller" (patented) then the pulse system really is more efficient for heated gear, according to the owner of Warm & Safe, which now sells through First Gear or Tourmaster. (can't recall which).

But for Canadian cold you'll need 100% Power to be safe.
Thanks for the lengthy reply - I am aware of the advantages of the Heat-Troller - we have two on our BMWs. My need to economize right now means I can't get them for the Suzukis at the moment, though.

I bought a Gen 3 heated liner recently, directly from the warmnsafe.com site, getting the ADV discount. It's an awesome jacket but at 90 watts, it's only going to be used on the BMW for now.
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:26 AM   #648
GSF1200S
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Heres my 08 DR as I bought it with 6700 miles for $3400:


Such is life in Pensacola- cant take the bike out for a 15 minute spin without the sky opening up. Heres a drier but unfortunately smaller picture of it:


It now has 1 1/8 handlebars with moose deflectors, buell directional signals, black anodized hdb clamp with switch for headlight and a vapor dash/computer, manracks bbq rack, nsu fix, case armor, skidplate, case saver, metal chain guide, and new dunlop 606 tires on it. It will have a pumper carb, a 14tooth sprocket and the suspension reworked before too long. Ill post pics upon completion. Its going to Alaska via portions of the TAT and as much dirt as I can find next year in may
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:23 AM   #649
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Originally Posted by GSF1200S
...It's going to Alaska via portions of the TAT and as much dirt as I can find next year in May
That may be a little early for some of the high passes, in the Colorado Rockies, to be clear of snow. Be sure to post a Ride Report!
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:48 PM   #650
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That may be a little early for some of the high passes, in the Colorado Rockies, to be clear of snow. Be sure to post a Ride Report!
Ill be leaving mid May (16th), and won't be in Colorado until at least the third or fourth week of May
. I will have to do more research I guess, because Colorado is a big part of the trip for me. I can slow down or speed up my route, but I also have to factor in the small window Alaska itself has...
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:46 AM   #651
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Originally Posted by GSF1200S
Ill be leaving mid May (16th), and won't be in Colorado until at least the third or fourth week of May. I will have to do more research I guess, because Colorado is a big part of the trip for me. I can slow down or speed up my route, but I also have to factor in the small window Alaska itself has...
There are certain years, depending on snowfall, where those high passes don't clear until late July. It's best to touch base with locals, next Spring, to see how much snow there is and if the State of Colorado has cleared any of them. I believe there are "big bike" alternate routes that avoid some of the passes with high difficulty terrain. You may be able to employ those alternate routes to your advantage.
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Old 10-17-2012, 09:59 AM   #652
victor441
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Originally Posted by kobukan View Post
I run a heated jacket (77w) and heated gloves (27w). With stock lighting the bike can't really handle both. I run the gloves on high and the jacket turned down a little. I have one of the digital voltmeters from Procycle installed and just watch the voltage when I'm running the heated gear. The voltmeter is very easy to install and I wouldn't really want to be without it when trying to run extra stuff on a bike like this with limited capacity.
That sounds about right, FWIW many of the the old British bikes have 120W alternators and cannot handle any added loads with the lights on so I figured my DR at 200W probably has roughly 80W to play with

victor441 screwed with this post 10-17-2012 at 10:44 AM
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:08 PM   #653
neoxaero
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I bought my bike about a month ago and the headlight on it looks awesome but is about as functional as tits on a boar hog.

What options are available for a good BRIGHT light that makes riding in the dark a game of playing follow the leader behind a cage so you can see where you're going? If it could maintain some sexy sumo looks that would be great!
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:15 PM   #654
sagedrifter
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Originally Posted by victor441 View Post
That sounds about right, FWIW many of the the old British bikes have 120W alternators and cannot handle any added loads with the lights on so I figured my DR at 200W probably has roughly 80W to play with
80 watts is safe, that's my average estimated draw. The 35 watt HID saves an estimated 20 more. I noticed my heated gear works better since the HID was put on. Haven't killed a battery running yet...

But, I do turn off the headlight when off road while going slowly with heated gear on. With the light off I can run things on a sweat lodge mode with no issues.

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Old 10-17-2012, 05:25 PM   #655
GSF1200S
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Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
There are certain years, depending on snowfall, where those high passes don't clear until late July. It's best to touch base with locals, next Spring, to see how much snow there is and if the State of Colorado has cleared any of them. I believe there are "big bike" alternate routes that avoid some of the passes with high difficulty terrain. You may be able to employ those alternate routes to your advantage.
Thanks very much for the info. I might need to use some of those routes; Alaska is usually the clearest in august, so that is when I would likely try to be there. Im not so worried about cold as ill be prepared for that, but ice on a mountain road

Reminds me of old Benjava- black ice on a mountain road took him out, and he was a great rider.
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:29 PM   #656
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Id actually like to take the headlight deal farther and find a good aftermarket or KTM piece that increases light while also lowering weight. The stock piece is far too heavy for how (not) useful it is.

Ive heard certain KTM fenders work with the KTM housings (and bolt up to the DR with little modification), but these usually are strictly focused on weight. Anyone have any beads on a replacement front cover/fender option that increases function while reducing weight?
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:45 PM   #657
victor441
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Originally Posted by neoxaero View Post
I bought my bike about a month ago and the headlight on it looks awesome but is about as functional as tits on a boar hog.

What options are available for a good BRIGHT light that makes riding in the dark a game of playing follow the leader behind a cage so you can see where you're going? If it could maintain some sexy sumo looks that would be great!
adding relays makes a BIG difference, the stock wiring and switches drop about 2 volts without them on my bike which cuts light output nearly in half. DR's take a standard H4 bulb so for off road use more powerful bulbs (like 80/100W, etc) are available, or to stay legal on the road "plus" bulbs are much brighter at the cost of reduced life. I thought about using a different headlight but there is so much crap behind the stock surround that it would be hard to hide it all...ended up adding relays and a Silverstar bulb and lighting is greatly improved. If you do go with a higher wattage bulb a heavy duty H4 socket is a must, easy to find at an auto parts store...and one advantage of the stock headlight is that it is glass and can take high heat, some newer bikes and aftermarket lights use plastic lenses that can melt when high power bulbs are used


victor441 screwed with this post 10-17-2012 at 05:52 PM
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Old 10-17-2012, 09:01 PM   #658
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Originally Posted by victor441 View Post
adding relays makes a BIG difference, the stock wiring and switches drop about 2 volts without them on my bike which cuts light output nearly in half. DR's take a standard H4 bulb so for off road use more powerful bulbs (like 80/100W, etc) are available, or to stay legal on the road "plus" bulbs are much brighter at the cost of reduced life. I thought about using a different headlight but there is so much crap behind the stock surround that it would be hard to hide it all...ended up adding relays and a Silverstar bulb and lighting is greatly improved. If you do go with a higher wattage bulb a heavy duty H4 socket is a must, easy to find at an auto parts store...and one advantage of the stock headlight is that it is glass and can take high heat, some newer bikes and aftermarket lights use plastic lenses that can melt when high power bulbs are used
I should have posted a picture to show the headlight my bike has on it right now.. I think its an acerbis one.. I like the look of it, but the light it puts out is horrible.
Maybe I should throw a couple 55w floods in it and see what happens..

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Old 10-17-2012, 09:03 PM   #659
GSF1200S
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I love the look of that headlight- please give us a heads up if a bulb change makes it put out decent light

Also, is it a good bit lighter than the stock cover/headlight mount?
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Old 10-17-2012, 10:27 PM   #660
neoxaero
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Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
I love the look of that headlight- please give us a heads up if a bulb change makes it put out decent light

Also, is it a good bit lighter than the stock cover/headlight mount?
Will do!

I weighed the bike with a full tank of gas and it was 338lbs. Looking at the stock headlight vs the one thats on there I would assume you lose a couple pounds but the bike didn't come with the stock one so I can't say for certain. Its basically plastic and two bulbs so it can't weigh very much.
With a 15/41 combo on the bike I can barely keep the front wheel down as it is. It'll do power wheelies in 3rd gear with no problem. Need to get a lighter tank on it to lose some more weight off the front.. 4th gear power wheelies? Yes please!
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