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Old 10-26-2012, 06:27 AM   #706
russt
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where does the hose go?

Hello,
Just got my bike back together last night and had taken out my air box. I cannot remember where a hose coming off of the right side of the carburetor connects. There are two hoses coming from the carb. The larger one comes off the carb and connects to the middle of the air box. The other hose comes off the right side of the carb and I cannot remember where it connects. Should have taken pictures when I pulled it apart to aid in reassembly
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Old 10-26-2012, 07:27 AM   #707
Bronco638
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IIRC, the hose that connects to the "middle" of the air box is the crankcase vent. That vent line snakes it's way up under the gas tank and then rearward to the air box. The big hose that comes off of the right side of the carburetor actually does not connect to the air box at all. It terminates above the air box with a small filter housing. The smaller hose, which you can see in the image below, simply lays on top of the air box itself.

Does this help (image courtesy of ProCycle)?



Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 10-26-2012, 08:35 AM   #708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
IIRC, the hose that connects to the "middle" of the air box is the crankcase vent. That vent line snakes it's way up under the gas tank and then rearward to the air box. The big hose that comes off of the right side of the carburetor actually does not connect to the air box at all. It terminates above the air box with a small filter housing. The smaller hose, which you can see in the image below, simply lays on top of the air box itself.

Does this help (image courtesy of ProCycle)?



Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks! You are correct, I just retraced the hose that feeds into the middle of the air box and it does go to the crank case. The hose that I thought went into the air box is connected to the small vent.

So the small hose that is sitting on top of the air box is a vent from the carb? Either way, I got it all back together correctly if the small hose does not terminate into anything, rather sits on top of the air box.

Thanks for your reply.
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Old 10-26-2012, 11:06 AM   #709
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DR650se is meant to be rode

FWIW I have a 2009 DR that I ride all the time. It's mostly white and the only mod removes the back spark arrester bolt for more rumble. But with the choke (enricher) always on, this bettered throttle response *above* off-idle (which bogs mildly now). OK don't send me to prison for not being arrested 100% With, tired tires, frt TW is at 16psi and rr TW at 20psi, everywhere. Almost maint-free has spoiled me ...not so the new old cr250r hopely delivered Monday, guess it'll rock me like a hurricane (Sandy). Seth
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Old 10-26-2012, 03:23 PM   #710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russt
So the small hose that is sitting on top of the air box is a vent from the carb?
Yes, I believe it is the float bowl vent.
Quote:
Originally Posted by russt
Either way, I got it all back together correctly if the small hose does not terminate into anything, rather sits on top of the air box.
Correct, it just sits on top of the air box (and does not terminate into anything).
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Old 10-27-2012, 12:57 PM   #711
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Just picked up a DR.

Been on the adv forum for awhile with a Honda Nighthawk 750. Picked up a DR650 yesterday. It as a few farkles, but I think it needs a little sorting out. The dr reminds me of the Nightawk in that it is a good, solid motorcycle. Not a star, but a workhorse.

Spent the morning catching up on the thread.seems like a good group. Like the basic philosophy.
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Old 10-27-2012, 02:25 PM   #712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russt View Post
Thanks! You are correct, I just retraced the hose that feeds into the middle of the air box and it does go to the crank case. The hose that I thought went into the air box is connected to the small vent.

So the small hose that is sitting on top of the air box is a vent from the carb? Either way, I got it all back together correctly if the small hose does not terminate into anything, rather sits on top of the air box.

Thanks for your reply.
the 1/2" hose to comes of the right side of the carb and has s small filter on the end is for the vacuum slide. air is pulled into or pushed out of the carb when the slide moves up and down.

the factory filter is a round ball looking unit with a filter inside it. many replace it with the small filter seen above which can be easily cleaned and oiled. this filter keep dirt out of the carb and must be maintained just like the main filter should for peak performance.
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:12 AM   #713
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drdubb - welcome. I agree with your assessment, a workhorse. It is a star in it's simplicity. I remember a post once that summed up the after ride maintenance for a DR. "I pulled it level, saw oil in the site glass, and had a beer"

Enjoy the ride.
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:36 AM   #714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Pretty much.

I'd prefer to keep things as simple as possible. So, I think I'll leave the CCT alone. Perhaps I can remove the starter far enough, with other things in-place, so that I can lube that bushing and then re-install it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Simple is why I did mine on the bike. Post back, inquiring minds will want to know if it can be done with the CCT left in place (a very important point for the less mechanically inclined and future information).
Bump for a good thread.

Hi , it's been two weeks, anything to report?
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:29 PM   #715
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Took the '03 on a little jaunt to Copper Canyon a couple weeks ago.







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Old 11-09-2012, 09:36 AM   #716
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sweet!
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:33 PM   #717
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Changing a rear flat

Fixing a rear flat. Got one side of the tire of just fine and pulled out the old tube. Any suggestions on getting the valve stem of the new tube in the rim? It is hard to pull the sidewall of the tire out enough to get the stem in there.

Thanks.
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:47 PM   #718
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I have one of these on the bike, but I can usually jiggle things around to get the stem thru the rim.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...ve-Stem-Puller
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:18 PM   #719
JagLite
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Pissed Tire change

Quote:
russt • Today 07:33 PM Changing a rear flat

Fixing a rear flat. Got one side of the tire of just fine and pulled out the old tube. Any suggestions on getting the valve stem of the new tube in the rim? It is hard to pull the sidewall of the tire out enough to get the stem in there.
I just came in from the garage where I put a new tire on the rear wheel.
I used the "Zip-Tie" method and it worked great.


I inflated the tube inside the tire enough to expand the tube into the tire.
Then I strapped the zippies around the tire and cinched them tight, pulling the beads together as one.
The valve stem was held tight by the beads and I just fed the valve through the rim hole and pushed the tire all the way into the rim well at the valve.
I then screwed the nut on the stem some so it wouldn't pop out and then I put a zippy around the tire and the rim to hold the tire in the well.

Then I was able to push both beads over the rim for more than half the tire and used one tire iron to pop the rest in a few inches at a time. I had done the front tire last night the same way (first time ever using zippies) and I did that one dry, with no lube and it was easy. For the rear I used dish soap to compare and it was just as easy even though the rear tire is much stiffer and wider. FWIW I timed how long it took at my usual turtle pace and it was 5 minutes from tire zipped and sitting next to the rim, to tire completely on the rim and ready to remove the zippies.

I do also have a valve stem puller that threads into the valve (replacing the core) and I have always used it to fish the valve stem through before but with the zippies I didn't need it.

As you have found, trying to get the valve stem through the rim with one bead on the rim is an exercise in character.
That means if you don't turn green and get hulking mad and throw stuff around, you have a good character.
I don't. My hands are too big and the bead is so stiff!

So, a long worded response to your simple question but I recommend pulling the tire off the rim and try the zippie way.

Otherwise, the way I used to struggle and fight to get the valve in required Hulkifying angry strength.
And that always resulted in lots of skin torn off the backs of my hands and fingers.

The valve stem tool helps to fish but you still have to fight to get the valve at 90 degrees to the rim hole to feed it through.

Anyone else have a good secret?

I am going to use Zip-Ties from now on. I used a small screwdriver to lift the lock tab to release the zippies for reuse.
I picked up a bag of 15 (?) at Lowe's and now I keep them in my tool box with my tire tools.

Hope this helps
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:04 AM   #720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russt View Post
Fixing a rear flat. Got one side of the tire of just fine and pulled out the old tube. Any suggestions on getting the valve stem of the new tube in the rim? It is hard to pull the sidewall of the tire out enough to get the stem in there.

Thanks.
Take one of your tire tools and open the bead up on the opposite side of the tire next to the stem. This will give you more room to get your hand in there and move the tube into place. Also helps to have the tube partially inflated. By adding some air to the tube helps to prevent pinch flats. Another tip is to use baby powder on the tube. This allows the tube to slide easier against the tire making it easier to get the tube lined up so the stem is straight. Also helps to prevent friction between the tire and the tube.
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