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Old 11-23-2012, 04:14 PM   #751
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Yes, I did thanks and now others do too. I wanted the OP to scroll thru the thread to see what's available in Krusty's Index.

Also thanks for your tips in the GPS and Spot threads.
Ok, just checking.

And you're welcome for the gps and Spot tips.
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Old 11-23-2012, 05:05 PM   #752
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killme_quik View Post
Thank christ there's a newer, less monsterous DR thread... After many attempted searches through that monster, I've decided to post my question here.

Has anyone done the full top end rebuild on a DR650? I'm looking at getting the high performance top end rebuild kit from procycle as my big pig has about 25-26,000 miles on it. Is it too soon to do a rebuild?

Thanks
Is your bike displaying any obvious symptoms of needing a rebuild or poor running? DR650 top ends last a long time. We do hear about some bikes that smoke on start up ... this is typically caused by worn valve guide seals ... not really a reason to rebuild whole top end.

26K is not high mileage (I'm near 50,000). But if you've got some extra money and strive for a bit more bottom end power ... then a big bore kit or high compression piston MAY give you what you need.

Before installing an aftermarket piston kit I would look carefully at the QUALITY and potential LONGEVITY of these parts and determine if they are equal to Suzuki items. The sellers will tell you they are better. Make them prove it.

Symptoms of a worn top (or bottom) end could be:
1. A lot of oil use (worn rings or poor valve sealing)
2. Loss of compression (best to do a "leak down" type compression test)
3. Continual valve lash adjustment with repeated loss of clearance.
4. Very loud piston slap or some other godawful noise, like from a broken ring or broken valve stem or ... ???

I hope you have none of the above ... and #4 is pretty rare from reports I've read on DR650's.

With reasonable oil & filter change intervals and keeping valves adjusted, no reason a stock DR650 should not go to near 100K miles ... if 3rd gear doesn't break before then!
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Old 11-23-2012, 07:52 PM   #753
killme_quik
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Wink Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Is your bike displaying any obvious symptoms of needing a rebuild or poor running? DR650 top ends last a long time. We do hear about some bikes that smoke on start up ... this is typically caused by worn valve guide seals ... not really a reason to rebuild whole top end.

26K is not high mileage (I'm near 50,000). But if you've got some extra money and strive for a bit more bottom end power ... then a big bore kit or high compression piston MAY give you what you need.

Before installing an aftermarket piston kit I would look carefully at the QUALITY and potential LONGEVITY of these parts and determine if they are equal to Suzuki items. The sellers will tell you they are better. Make them prove it.

Symptoms of a worn top (or bottom) end could be:
1. A lot of oil use (worn rings or poor valve sealing)
2. Loss of compression (best to do a "leak down" type compression test)
3. Continual valve lash adjustment with repeated loss of clearance.
4. Very loud piston slap or some other godawful noise, like from a broken ring or broken valve stem or ... ???

I hope you have none of the above ... and #4 is pretty rare from reports I've read on DR650's.

With reasonable oil & filter change intervals and keeping valves adjusted, no reason a stock DR650 should not go to near 100K miles ... if 3rd gear doesn't break before then!
It's not showing any of those symptoms so far, hopefully they don't manifest themselves(fingers crossed). I'm still thinking about doing the high comp piston though, if not the cam. The piston kit is a JE 10:1 kit with a new gasket set from procycle, I've heard very good things about it.
Thanks again
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:29 PM   #754
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killme_quik View Post
It's not showing any of those symptoms so far, hopefully they don't manifest themselves(fingers crossed). I'm still thinking about doing the high comp piston though, if not the cam. The piston kit is a JE 10:1 kit with a new gasket set from procycle, I've heard very good things about it.
Thanks again
JE have an excellent reputation. I used JE in my two stroke race bike and in a rebuild of my former XR250R. Good stuff ... but that was 5 or 6 years back.
Now? Who knows. Sourcing and quality shift with costs and the economy.
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Old 11-23-2012, 09:07 PM   #755
killme_quik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
JE have an excellent reputation. I used JE in my two stroke race bike and in a rebuild of my former XR250R. Good stuff ... but that was 5 or 6 years back.
Now? Who knows. Sourcing and quality shift with costs and the economy.
Still hearing good things about them
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Old 11-24-2012, 02:50 AM   #756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bultaco206 View Post
Had a DR guru friend (he lurks on here...thanks for your help, Paul) who's up on all the necessary DR mods help me for a day a few weeks ago. The bike really woke up motor-wise. Drilled out the fuel screw, re-jetted for the Q4, installed Ricor emulators, added external fuel filter, re-worked the neutral sending unit mount, installed new rubber (Shinko 244 test) new Renthal Jimmy Buttons, did the DR200 taillight swap, kickstand safety switch removal, upper chain roller removal, Acerbis handguards, and the rear end conversion to a simple license plate mount. This thing pulls like a tractor now right off the bottom. My Wolfman racks and Expedition bags have been shipped. And I'm playing around with a new Cee Bailey sport windscreen mounted on a spare headlight shell for quick conversions. The jury is still out on the performance of that, and now that winter has set in here in NE Iowa it will be next spring before I can figure that out.





That yard must be a bitch to Mow !
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:20 AM   #757
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Rim Locks

Had a tough ride yesterday on LAB2V ( LA to Barstow 2Vegas). Had three flats on the rear.
1- picked up a nail. Just unlucky.
2- tore valve stem out of tube. Running 16 psi, evidently not enough and spun the tire on the rim.
3- pinch flat. Classic snake bite pinch. I guess 19 psi was not enough for the rocks we were riding through.

My question is on rim locks. Does anyone run them? These would have reduced/ eliminated the tire spin is what others said on the trail yesterday. I am thinking of drilling my rims to install a set. I have not read about rim locks on the DR threads. Are you guys running more pressure in the dirt? You are probably smoother riders then I am. But I sure got my practice with trail side flat repair.

Lastly, an 18" rear wheel. I have read a few posts about guys changing their rear to an 18" rim. What are the pros and cons to this? Seems that 17" is more street oriented and dirt bikes have 18" wheels. I think the DRZ400 comes with an 18" rear.

Thanks!
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:59 AM   #758
Adv Grifter
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Three Flats In A Day???

Man, that's some bad luck. I'm guessing you're keeping a pretty fast pace, not slowing up for rocky, tough sections? I've run similar pressures in Baja (15 to 17 psi front with TKC 80's .. 18 to 20 PSI rear .. Dunlop D606), but I keep a very moderate pace, no flats and no rim locks.

What tires are you using?

I'm not hammering the throttle accelerating ... so maybe that helps? Hard charging over rocks can aid in spinning the tire on the rim and head on hits can pinch a tube. Riding technique can influence this some. Riding Enduros I followed Dick Burleson's motto: "Save the Equipment".

To Win, you must first FINISH!

Quite a few DR guys are running rim locks. No big deal on install, just makes flat repairs a little tougher, until you get used to dealing with them.

The 18" rear is the choice of some DR guys doing more dirt than street. An 18" tire will typically have a TALLER side wall, this gives you more cushion on hits, resists pinch flats better than a 17". Also, it changes Rake/Trail geometry slightly ... and some say the bike turns better with an 18".

If you switch to an 18" rear wheel, make sure you use a wheel TOUGH enough to handle 650 power, as some 18's come from DR350's I believe.

Another plus: every knobby on the market is available in an 18". Not so a 17". But some of those knobbies are not ideal for the very heavy DR650. Some tires for Moto can chunk or shred under hard use.

For traveling nowadays, you actually find MORE 17" rear tires available on the road than 18's. This true in all of Latin America anyway.

Tell us about the event. What was the mix of bikes? How many showed up? Where was the overnight held?
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Old 11-24-2012, 12:05 PM   #759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by russt View Post
Had a tough ride yesterday on LAB2V ( LA to Barstow 2Vegas). Had three flats on the rear.
1- picked up a nail. Just unlucky.
2- tore valve stem out of tube. Running 16 psi, evidently not enough and spun the tire on the rim.
3- pinch flat. Classic snake bite pinch. I guess 19 psi was not enough for the rocks we were riding through.

My question is on rim locks. Does anyone run them? These would have reduced/ eliminated the tire spin is what others said on the trail yesterday. I am thinking of drilling my rims to install a set. I have not read about rim locks on the DR threads. Are you guys running more pressure in the dirt? You are probably smoother riders then I am. But I sure got my practice with trail side flat repair.

Lastly, an 18" rear wheel. I have read a few posts about guys changing their rear to an 18" rim. What are the pros and cons to this? Seems that 17" is more street oriented and dirt bikes have 18" wheels. I think the DRZ400 comes with an 18" rear.

Thanks!
That's a bummer, 3 in a day. What did you say when you got the 3rd one ? Not printable I bet !
Coming from a dirt bike background I have always run rim locks, although I don't have one in the rear of my DR at present, but I am always 2 up so run high pressures. (30+ unless in mud) I have one in the front because it's a DRZ front end/ wheel so it came with one but I have changed it for a Motion Pro light weight one
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/...ory/rim_locks/
One my dirt bikes I always used to put the rim lock close to the valve because it was easier to change that way but it's not so good for balance. With the lightweight ones it requires less weight to balance the wheel.
Do you run heavy duty tubes ?
Cheers Phil
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Old 11-24-2012, 12:58 PM   #760
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Originally Posted by M1Jeep View Post
+1, 34k miles and going strong. It's all about PMCS (preventative maintenance checks and service). "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"
Please don't forget to fill out a 2404...
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Old 11-24-2012, 04:49 PM   #761
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Ah! New rubber is SO nice! ...just sayin'....
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:07 PM   #762
TrophyHunter
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LA B2V - tough day. I spoke to my riding buddy Strega after seeing him stop for a DS group right before Baker. Funny timing as the wife and I passed him on our way to Zion when he stopped his truck to help some riders on 15. They got on fine and we saw some in Baker gassing up and getting re-energized. Strega said some riders limped in around 4 AM with no headlight, chase team bringing gas to those who needed it, etc.

Glad you made it back to civilization. Still on my list of rides to do. I think the dinner is in Vegas tonight.

I just run my pressure high and have only had one flat on the trail in about 4000 off road miles. I've considered the rim lock since I'd like to try lower pressure when out in the deep sand.
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Old 11-24-2012, 06:56 PM   #763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bultaco206 View Post
Had a DR guru friend (he lurks on here...thanks for your help, Paul) who's up on all the necessary DR mods help me for a day a few weeks ago. The bike really woke up motor-wise. Drilled out the fuel screw, re-jetted for the Q4, installed Ricor emulators, added external fuel filter, re-worked the neutral sending unit mount, installed new rubber (Shinko 244 test) new Renthal Jimmy Buttons, did the DR200 taillight swap, kickstand safety switch removal, upper chain roller removal, Acerbis handguards, and the rear end conversion to a simple license plate mount. This thing pulls like a tractor now right off the bottom. My Wolfman racks and Expedition bags have been shipped. And I'm playing around with a new Cee Bailey sport windscreen mounted on a spare headlight shell for quick conversions. The jury is still out on the performance of that, and now that winter has set in here in NE Iowa it will be next spring before I can figure that out.






That license plate bracket is just what I have been looking for. Where did you purchase it?

Thanks, Brad
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:22 PM   #764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhino_adv View Post
That license plate bracket is just what I have been looking for. Where did you purchase it?

Thanks, Brad
Lower right here: (warning: DR pron)

http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html#electrical
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"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:47 AM   #765
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Well, now that its quickly approaching winter, I finally get the DR on the road Did the nsu fix, 250w stator, 14/43 gearing, rack, skidplate, barkbusters, case covers, weight reduction, airbox mod/twinair, vapor tach/speedo/hdb top clamp, 1 1/8" handlebars, DR250 taillight, rear fender eliminator/license plate light, buell directional signals front/rear, wide footbegs, 1" bar risers, and a new set of D606's. Gonna be getting a TM40 pumper next week, and try to source a gsxr exhaust can and midpipe. Heres a few pics:




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