Installing a CPR air filter on my 990

[Spark01]

Originally Posted by olec

So you made an extra pocket on the old baseplate, but it didn't help (too much), and you reaplaced it with the updated baseplate now and then you found more cracks in the old one when removing it? (just to be sure before I order it that there are no more issues with the new one)

No
those pockets where made in the OLD type base plate to have clearance between the plate and the 2nd valve motor and idle speed motor:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=64
Otherwise it would be installed under stress, but the cracks i found where in the tabs not around the pockets.

I installed the new type last week so.. no feedback of strenght issue's. but according Chris from CPR the new plates should be stronger than the old ones.

[Lelos950]

Dear friends, has anyone tried the CPR air filter on 950 adventure? What is the improvement, concerning throttle responce, horsepower, gas consumption? Is it worth spending money? What other adjustments are required, concerning carburator jetting etc.

[moto-treks]

Originally Posted by Lelos950

Dear friends, has anyone tried the CPR air filter on 950 adventure? What is the improvement, concerning throttle responce, horsepower, gas consumption? Is it worth spending money? What other adjustments are required, concerning carburator jetting etc.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=786119

[olec]

Ordered, received, installed and tested on an '11 990R. Already tuned for motohooligan airbox with K&N, and the CPR breathes quite similar to the old setup. I am happy.
Best part was that it is more quiet compared to the K&N which has this very sharp bark between 4 and 5K. The CPR flattens this out and just breathes with a good base tune.

No bolts and nylock nuts included (as pointed out earlier). The fit could be more precise becaue if you lock one of the quarter turn tabs first, it's very hard to lock the second and vice versa. I think the whole issue is that it's difficult to get the filter enough over to the right side when the lip of the filter goes under that base on the left side. Maybe it will get more play after some more usage, but lets see.

I ordered a baseplate w/o breather hole bc that hose is now just venting to air in front of filter, ending in a filter sock zip tied to the frame.

Cheers!

[geometrician]

I have a set of FCR39's to put on my 950 but am not really keen on using the K&N air filter pods that come in the SUDCO kit

Would this filter system work with FCRs? I think that would be the ticket!

That way I won't have to build my own airbox...

[Johnf3]

Originally Posted by geometrician

I have a set of FCR39's to put on my 950 but am not really keen on using the K&N air filter pods that come in the SUDCO kit

Would this filter system work with FCRs? I think that would be the ticket!

That way I won't have to build my own airbox...

No. Not even close.

[blublapp]

It will if you build your own baseplate for FCR's....

[Spark01]

Originally Posted by geometrician

I have a set of FCR39's to put on my 950 but am not really keen on using the K&N air filter pods that come in the SUDCO kit

Would this filter system work with FCRs? I think that would be the ticket!

That way I won't have to build my own airbox...

It could with a custom base plate
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p1...duct_info.html

But i don't know if this base plate has the exact same size like the CPR.
So you also can buy a matching ITG jC30-100 filter.
With filter socks
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p1...duct_info.html
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p1...duct_info.html

As used by another inmate:
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....&postcount=300

[Sporting Wood]

Originally Posted by Spark01

It could with a custom base plate
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p1...duct_info.html

But i don't know if this base plate has the exact same size like the CPR.
So you also can buy a matching ITG jC30-100 filter.
With filter socks
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p1...duct_info.html
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p1...duct_info.html

As used by another inmate:
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....&postcount=300

I made my own for my 950. Its not so hard... In fact, I feel mine is a superior product with a more secure gasket to carb flange mount and its 6061 aluminum, not gonna crack.



If theres anyone with a 990 in NC, I'd gladly help someone make their own.

[howl]

I like the idea of making your own Mr Sporting Wood,as £200 for the CRP is a bit steep (bit poor at the moment) Has any one got a template drawing for the 990 they could post ? I'm sure I could fabricate one using a jigsaw and file. Money saved would help pay for DYNO time .Have got the Akra tune, can't need much more fuel surely .

[geometrician]

Originally Posted by blublapp

It will if you build your own baseplate for FCR's....

my thoughts exactly...

Originally Posted by Spark01

It could with a custom base plate
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p1...duct_info.html

But i don't know if this base plate has the exact same size like the CPR.
So you also can buy a matching ITG jC30-100 filter.
With filter socks
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p1...duct_info.html
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p1...duct_info.html

thanks for the links!

I'm thinking of my own box w/a flat filter on top sourced from catalogs of the filter manufacturers- with airbox volume limited by tank & glovebox (if I keep it) filter surface area is important. I'm sure there are several out there that will fit. Building a custom box will also allow me to direct the air coming in & keep engine/radiator heat from migrating up as much- going to the trouble of the FCRs (TPS, etc) I'd no doubt have a heat blanket/director on top of the engine/below the carb bodies. I could source sheet plastic & heat-weld it together, but then again I have a friend with a huge roll of neglected CF he bought for a small project. I know plastic welding, but getting into making molds, resins/curing agents/etc and ending up with something I'm proud of might be tough since I'm a bit of a perfectionist... all I need is another hobby/skill-set...

Originally Posted by Spark01

As used by another inmate:
http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....&postcount=300

been lurking on that thread for a while- enjoy the side-stories & use of alcohol in the shops

[Sporting Wood]

Originally Posted by howl

I like the idea of making your own Mr Sporting Wood,as £200 for the CRP is a bit steep (bit poor at the moment) Has any one got a template drawing for the 990 they could post ? I'm sure I could fabricate one using a jigsaw and file. Money saved would help pay for DYNO time .Have got the Akra tune, can't need much more fuel surely .

I have a template for a 950

Have a couple buds with 990's but it'll be a while till I can get my paws on their bikes.

FWIW, I don't really think this particular filter is really all that and a bag 'o chips. Works and its a pretty decent compromise, but the fit is pretty tight/ weird and it routes air mostly right above the velocity stacks. Way...WAY better than living with the airbox but I'm thinking single UNI's might be just as good and a bunch easier... though the problem of attaching them well remains. Back in 2007 I ran some single K&Ns that worked great... but I ride a lot of dust and had them simply zip tyed to the carb intake w/o the velocity stack. Put the box back on eventually.

One observation, water from rain likes to roll down between the glove box and the seat, soaking the top of the filter just above the rear intake. It'd be wise to weatherstrip the gap or cover it when it rains.

[howl]

Originally Posted by Sporting Wood

I have a template for a 950

Have a couple buds with 990's but it'll be a while till I can get my paws on their bikes.

FWIW, I don't really think this particular filter is really all that and a bag 'o chips. Works and its a pretty decent compromise, but the fit is pretty tight/ weird and it routes air mostly right above the velocity stacks. Way...WAY better than living with the airbox but I'm thinking single UNI's might be just as good and a bunch easier... though the problem of attaching them well remains. Back in 2007 I ran some single K&Ns that worked great... but I ride a lot of dust and had them simply zip tyed to the carb intake w/o the velocity stack. Put the box back on eventually.

One observation, water from rain likes to roll down between the glove box and the seat, soaking the top of the filter just above the rear intake. It'd be wise to weatherstrip the gap or cover it when it rains.

Thank you for reply ,single UNI's sound a better idea if they could be attached ,like you comment about the rain ,we get quite a bit if that in England ,could fabricate somthing to cover that gap under the seat may be.

[Spark01]

Originally Posted by Spark01

But i don't like the new routing of the crank case breather, as i still have the 2nd valve motor inplace.
The hose is pushing against the front injector connector and the connectors of the 2nd valve motor.
So i removed the hose and sealled the hole with a bolt and 2 washer with some rubber seallant inbetween.
And ordered a small crankcase breather filter to put on the hose.

i think this also will help for lowering the intake temp some degrees. because the warm fumes from the crankcase will no longer enter in the airfilter.

Finally the crank case breather came in (K&N 62-1110) and i installed it with a self made bracket to the rear throttle body:


Hose routing:

[moto-treks]

Cleaned the Rottweiler the other day after about 2K mile of use. It was a bit dirty



But totally clean inside



A simple wash and re-oiling with some no-toil filter oil and it as good as new.