ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Riding > Ride reports
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-06-2012, 07:04 AM   #271
Merlin III
Mean SOB
 
Merlin III's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Maine
Oddometer: 1,512
Quote:
Originally Posted by rtwpaul;19758921

to finish the day we asked for a recommendation for a restaurant from Reynaldo and Antonina from Sol y Luna - they suggested Taco Don Felix, they told us he used to have a taco stand with table covered in white linen, but now he was in a building outside of town but it was worth going...the drive there about 30 pesos in cab takes you through 'the ghetto' kind of so don't be surprised...but what i was surprised at was one of the absolute best pepper steaks i have ever had (and i have had many around the world) and very reasonably priced if i might add

[IMG
http://dmh65.smugmug.com/RidingRTW/oct-5-san-miguel-de-allende/i-hCWkhgc/0/XL/SAM1779-XL.jpg[/IMG]
Paul, nice photos! I was just wondering if you have taken any photos of the "ghetto" areas. IMHO, those types of photos would fill in a lot of gaps in our perception of Mexico.
__________________
"I have approximate answers and possible beliefs and different degrees of certainty about different things, but I am not absolutely sure about anything." Richard Feynman, CalTech Scientist, Challenger Disaster Committee member.
Merlin III is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2012, 10:51 AM   #272
Rafael Martins
Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2012
Location: Castro/Paraná Brazil
Oddometer: 23
Hi Paul!

Are you comming to Brazil? I'm close to Iguassu falls, in the Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil boarder.

See you
Rafael Martins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2012, 07:00 PM   #273
Aron31
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Aron31's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2010
Location: Western Chicago Il
Oddometer: 113
Better late than never.... I'm in. Best of luck. Awesome bike btw. How did you come about one in America?
__________________

My 2008 Klr 650 (orange)
Wife's 2008 Klr 650 (red)
Aron31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2012, 07:26 PM   #274
rtwpaul OP
out riding...
 
rtwpaul's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: round the world
Oddometer: 1,929
Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin III View Post
Paul, nice photos! I was just wondering if you have taken any photos of the "ghetto" areas. IMHO, those types of photos would fill in a lot of gaps in our perception of Mexico.
not much for photos in those areas unless i'm riding thru, i do have a few and i'll add some as i go along

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rafael Martins View Post
Hi Paul!

Are you comming to Brazil? I'm close to Iguassu falls, in the Paraguay, Argentina and Brazil boarder.

See you
not this time, farthest southeast i will be is in Venezuela near the Guyana border, then i have to be back to Columbia to catch a boat to Cuba, thsanks anyway, next time i'm headed south for sure we should meet up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aron31 View Post
Better late than never.... I'm in. Best of luck. Awesome bike btw. How did you come about one in America?
you are one of the early ones...i bought the bike in the UK and shipped it to Argentina and rode it north from there last year, see the off the grid reide report below for details
rtwpaul is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2012, 09:18 PM   #275
rtwpaul OP
out riding...
 
rtwpaul's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: round the world
Oddometer: 1,929
the plan for the day - Zacatlan....FAIL...but in a really good way!!!

out of san miguel in the morning



another one for the reasons not to ride in the dark south of the border...wide load here is a lot wider than in the north



here's another



and another



riding parallel to the mountains in the high desert



route planned to find this back road to Zacatlan, thru the mountains...this is what it looked like on a map, makes the tail of the dragon look like a straight road, and this is all dirt



this the real view, if you are even the slightest bit bothered about heights this road is not for you, some corners had atleast 2-3000 foot shear drops





...and this is the view from the top of Barranca de Tolantongo and down to la Gloria Tolantongo



so there is these guys at the top of the mountain, legit fee to go down to a resort (its saturday) and to get to the bottom takes one hour (it's 3 pm) and they assure us there is no way out to Zacatlan, the map shows one, Garmin GPS shows one, then a couple in a car come up the hill and agree there is no way out "no salida"





if it was before noon it would have been a good ride down and back up just because, but due to the time we doubled back kind of!!!

we saw a different road which the guys said we could go on, we ended up in a tiny village, not even on the map, at a fork in the road we stopped and this little old lady came out to talk to us, she told us there was no way down we needed to double back...i wish i had a video camera, she said (in spanish) where do you want to go? not here right, nobody comes here! and then she giggled like a little girl and smiled at me showing me her gold teeth. I don't think she had ever seen gringo tourists in her village. And yes she was about 4 feet tall



looking back this was the sign heading back



doubling back down the mountain dirt road






our new destination was Pachuca, found a hotel called Los Banos...yes yes i know what it means, but it doesn't really

anyhow the roof access was open and this was the view of the city




bikes parked inside the lobby



amazing clock tower in the main square



the city at night





and the absolute weirdest thing of the day, a guy playing bag pipes, sounded Scotish from a distance but as we got closer it was mariachi music...try and get your head around that Scotish Mariatchi no really becuase

rtwpaul is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2012, 09:55 AM   #276
miguelito
Studly Adventurer
 
miguelito's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: San Miguel de Allende, GTO, Mexico
Oddometer: 505
Quote:
Originally Posted by rtwpaul View Post
to finish the day we asked for a recommendation for a restaurant from Reynaldo and Antonina from Sol y Luna - they suggested Taco Don Felix, they told us he used to have a taco stand with table covered in white linen, but now he was in a building outside of town but it was worth going...the drive there about 30 pesos in cab takes you through 'the ghetto' kind of so don't be surprised...but what i was surprised at was one of the absolute best pepper steaks i have ever had (and i have had many around the world) and very reasonably priced if i might add

Hey! Some of my best friends live in that "ghetto". :) Don Felix is a local institution in San Miguel. Yumm! Just discovered this, but better late than never. Enjoying your report.
miguelito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2012, 05:42 AM   #277
MikeMike
Beastly Adventurer
 
MikeMike's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Oddometer: 4,149
Paul, that's "la gaita" not bagpipes per se. The gaita is a Spanish version of the "agony bag". If you had asked him to play "Danny Boy" it might have been akin to
asking the London Philharmonic to play "Freebird". LOL!

There is also a great joke about a bar in Barcelona, an octopus, and a gaita. When you come through on your way back, I'll tell it to you.

Did you get caught in the rain in Xalapa yesterday? The Craneguy and I were damn near fording rivers in the streets and I am still drying out. Really interesting.

We'll catch up on your way back through, you are going to really like the photo ops and riding here in the mountains.
How was the Nautico?
MikeMike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2012, 09:28 PM   #278
rtwpaul OP
out riding...
 
rtwpaul's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: round the world
Oddometer: 1,929
Quote:
Originally Posted by miguelito View Post
Hey! Some of my best friends live in that "ghetto". :) Don Felix is a local institution in San Miguel. Yumm! Just discovered this, but better late than never. Enjoying your report.
i meant it in the best possible way,i was just very surprised by the location

i will be back for seconds, thirds, forths...excellent chef
rtwpaul is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2012, 09:30 PM   #279
rtwpaul OP
out riding...
 
rtwpaul's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: round the world
Oddometer: 1,929
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMike View Post
Paul, that's "la gaita" not bagpipes per se. The gaita is a Spanish version of the "agony bag". If you had asked him to play "Danny Boy" it might have been akin to
asking the London Philharmonic to play "Freebird". LOL!

There is also a great joke about a bar in Barcelona, an octopus, and a gaita. When you come through on your way back, I'll tell it to you.

Did you get caught in the rain in Xalapa yesterday? The Craneguy and I were damn near fording rivers in the streets and I am still drying out. Really interesting.

We'll catch up on your way back through, you are going to really like the photo ops and riding here in the mountains.
How was the Nautico?

sounds like bag pipes...looks like bag pipes - case is still open on that one

ride report will show my rainy day!!!

i'll send you an email
rtwpaul is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2012, 09:51 PM   #280
rtwpaul OP
out riding...
 
rtwpaul's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: round the world
Oddometer: 1,929
This morning Andy T and I split as we left Pachuca, he headed off in the direction of Guatemala, searching out the shortest route, me on the other hand; I will be in Guatemala but first I am riding in the direction of Belize




As I left this morning riding solo for the first time in a week it felt strange as last time I was riding alone in Mexico (even though I was with a group) I was chased by the cartels for about 40-50 miles and a friend was kidnapped. (If you hadn’t read about that its in my other ride reports, not going into that at all in this thread.)



Anyhow its kind of like re-finding my comfort zone, as I left Pachuca I rode about 40 km’s out of town towards Tulancingo and then my GPS locked up completely whilst trying to recalculate it stuck on 50% for an hour. Everything else worked (speed/ elevation/ compass etc) so I had a paper map, not the greatest one and a compass…so my heading was southeast to Vercruz.

I got turned around a few times in Tulancingo but eventually found my way out of the one way system heading southeast to what I thought was the road to Zacatlan…wrong, I was on the road to Cuautepec which is basically a dead end unless you have a good map or a GPS to find the small back road out of town, all I found was dead ends. Now add to this Andy was the Spanish speaker of the two of us. I asked for directions, but it really didn’t help, still found dead ends!

Then bingo the GPS kicks back in and points me in the right direction, I have it set for no toll roads and it sent me down an unassuming road a right turn off the 130 that for 20 k’s or so was very cool (signs showed it was the Ruta 2010 anniversary route) skirting the side of a mountain looking down into the rain forest below, then it took me downwards, the paper map agreed and off I went. I rode for maybe two more hours thru some very small villages and was eye balled a lot, there was a VERY strong police presence (more than I saw in Pachuca the night before for a city of about 1,000,000) for such small areas, but I was headed in the right direction towards Poza Rica south of the 130. My mind was working overtime, as I rode, not surprisingly but the road condition for the most part was very good until I went from 8000 feet down to about 1000 feet and then it was a mix of black top and gravel and dirt, with a river crossing thrown in for good measure which turned out to only be about 8 inches deep











I got caught in very heavy rains so decided against hitting Xalapa (I’ll catch it on the way north) and headed for the ocean. I finished the day just north of Palma Sola in a small hotel in MAr Azul on the ocean for 195 pesos and had a fish supper.






The guy that owns the place is called Manuel and every time I hear that name because of growing up in England it makes me think of this - Fawlty Towers, too much butter on those trays. And my Spanish is at about the same level as Basil



Talking to Manuel, he asked which route I took, he frowned when I told him about the small villages and the route i took, he said good to see you got here!

Those little villages used to be bad but now the bad guys have blended in with the good guys…and he left it at that, but then said from here on south its all good, not sure if that made me feel better or not? So I locked the bike against a concrete pillar and turned in for the night
rtwpaul is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2012, 10:10 PM   #281
rtwpaul OP
out riding...
 
rtwpaul's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: round the world
Oddometer: 1,929
Left Mar Azul headed to Veracruz and then Catemaco…I left the hotel and got some insider advice from Manuel on how to avoid the toll going into Veracuz by taking a side road at Salmoral which would come out right after the toll, he said find the road that goes between the river and the train line. Not difficult to find, just follow the taxis!!!




if you sell bananas you have to have a yellow truck!!!



Riding thru Veracruz I got a nail in my rear tire that shredded the inner tube, luckily I had another and it happened right next to a motorbike repair shop…coincidence?



So I figured I would let them do it as next door there was a tire repair shop so it would be quicker than me getting out all my repair stuff…now remember here my Spanish is almost zero.

So I pull out the inner tube and it’s the wrong size!!! This is the second one I have got that was wrong but in the right box, last time I had a 12 inch instead of a 17 inch, this time it was a 17 but 17 x 4 not a 17 x 5.10 like I needed. Luckily there was a spares place across the street so I got a new one and a new spare. Tubes were about the same price as the states 156 pesos’ each or around $12

My old tube got to hang on the tree of shame; it’s the one on the top, split right down the middle



When the tire was put back on the sidewall expanded creating a bubble, small but it was there all the same, it’s a Hiedineau with only 2000 miles on it.



I stopped for gas and a Ford Ranger that’s seen better days pulled up with a cow n the back, I’ve seen mini trucks with Llamas in the back in Argentina and a horse in Mexico before but never a full grown cow….add this to the reasons not to ride south of the border at night…just think if that thing took a dump as the truck was moving!!



So I carry on and get to Catemaco, the rain was intense most of the day and I ended up in a hole of a hotel (hotel campestre) for 200 pesos, I had to move rooms as the first one, the wall started leaking from the heavy rain and the floor became a swimming pool.

I did have a video but can't get it to load via smugmug??? The video is nothing on how it was really raining as the trees blocked almost all of it, but it gives you the idea of the place. I did fid a better place for the same price on the main square but they had no parking and wanted me to leave my bike two blocks away on a side street – nope!



Once the rain stopped I went out to lube the chain and noticed the bubble has grown considerably so now tomorrow its time to try and find a new tire, Hiedeneau…not impressed. I got it from Revzilla so hopefully they will stand behind the product even though I can’t return it for obvious reasons

rtwpaul screwed with this post 10-09-2012 at 10:24 PM
rtwpaul is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2012, 11:02 PM   #282
Patrol
VALE 46!
 
Patrol's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Little Mogadishu, Canada
Oddometer: 1,366
Awesome RR. Blows about your tire.
__________________
Somewhere between One Love and Molon Labe
Patrol is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2012, 05:19 AM   #283
MikeMike
Beastly Adventurer
 
MikeMike's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Oddometer: 4,149
Good to hear you beat the toll via Salmoral.
Did you do Catemaco via Roca Partida, Monte Pio, and Sontecomapan?
Rain was intense in Xalapa, very, very intense, you were lucky you booked on for the coast!!
Hope to see you on the way back through.
MikeMike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2012, 09:00 AM   #284
rtwpaul OP
out riding...
 
rtwpaul's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: round the world
Oddometer: 1,929
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMike View Post
Good to hear you beat the toll via Salmoral.
Did you do Catemaco via Roca Partida, Monte Pio, and Sontecomapan?
Rain was intense in Xalapa, very, very intense, you were lucky you booked on for the coast!!
Hope to see you on the way back through.
no cause of the heavy rain i just got there!!! on the way out the mission was a new tire, i had to go all the way to Tabasco to get one, so i was looking for smooth roads...not easy in this part of the world, the tire was getting worse by the hour
rtwpaul is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2012, 09:01 AM   #285
rtwpaul OP
out riding...
 
rtwpaul's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Location: round the world
Oddometer: 1,929
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrol View Post
Awesome RR. Blows about your tire.
i'll wait until Guatemala as i'll be there for a month or so and the import duties are lower so i also have time to wait
rtwpaul is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 12:53 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014