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Old 10-15-2012, 11:07 PM   #1
indr OP
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Alternator Rotor Removal

The manual isn't of much help.



I have the removal tool. And I have it in place as in the picture. The outer sleeve (the piece with the threads on the inside, is on. And the inner bolt, is finger tightened all the way. What's next? Do I keep tightening the bolt; will it just make the rotor pop out?
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:29 PM   #2
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Should work like this. Make sure C is out like your instructions say. If you can say what year make and model of motorcycle it is you can search Alternator removal for xyz and you may find videos or instructions.

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Old 10-16-2012, 04:14 AM   #3
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in my experience, once the inner bolt is quite snug, striking its head smartly with a soft hammer will pop the flywheel loose.

sometimes it must be tightened and struck again.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:38 AM   #4
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Hold sleeve with wrench.

Tighten bolt with another wrench.

That will press into the crank and pull or press off the rotor. If it's really tough. strike the bolt with a dead blow hammer. The shock usually convinces the rotor to break free and come off. You're striking the bolt not the rotor.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:44 AM   #5
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Yes keep tightening the inner bolt - the whole point of that tool is to use the bolt to push against the crank - the outer piece is threaded into the rotor and pulls the rotor off.

Don't lose the woodruff key when you pull off the rotor. Never had to hit one with a hammer to take off the rotor on any of the 6 bikes I have done it on in my garage, but I use an impact driver on the inner bolt
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:57 AM   #6
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grease the threads and the center bolt, hit it with a impact gun
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:28 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustynut2 View Post
grease the threads and the center bolt, hit it with a impact gun

This is likley fine for many bikes, but not so fine for those with magnets glued in place . . . . you KNOW how I know
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:57 PM   #8
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impact wrench is a bull shit in this application.

i've turned wrenches for many years but feel it is a waste of time to post in the garage because children must learn the expensive way.
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:13 PM   #9
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any magnet that falls off was ready to go anyways.

get er done with the gun
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:21 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by rustynut2 View Post
any magnet that falls off was ready to go anyways.

get er done with the gun
Disagree . . . .but, hey, your attempt at poetry will likely sway folks ;-}
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:24 PM   #11
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Grease the threads on the puller bolt. It'll protect the threads and make it easier to tighten. With tapers, some will come easily, and others will require a shock. Use a brass faced hammer. It won't booger up the puller. Watch for the key so it doesn't fall into the engine. I like to turn the crank so the key is at the top. When you re-assemble it, if the key is loose, use a center punch on the side of the key to raise up the metal so the key fits tightly in the keyway and doesn't slide out of place as the rotor is installed.
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:29 PM   #12
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Eek

Striking the rotor can cause the magnets to lose their magnetism?
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:49 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by D.T. View Post
Striking the rotor can cause the magnets to lose their magnetism?
Yep....I did not think they'd put that warning there for no reasons. I tend to listen to any warnings nowadays,gets expensive fast if they are true. They usually are....! Still like to know the why....Google is good for that.

http://www.physlink.com/education/askexperts/ae472.cfm

Maybe I'll go whack a magnet in the shop.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:22 PM   #14
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Well, sh#t on me.

There is some good heat in there too, probably up to 250 deg F from the oil. High enough to demagentize?

Quote:
1) Via heat: ferromagnet materials will lose their magnetism if heated above a point known as the Curie temperature. At this point, the energy being put into the magnet from the heat will permanently disrupt the magnetic domain structure of the material, turning it into a paramagnetic material [a similar effect occurs in materials called hard ferrites, which exhibit a form of magnetism called ferrimagnetism; the analogous temperature for these materials is known as the Neel point]. You would have to re-magnetize the magnet again, either in a solenoid or with another permanent magnet, in order to restore the magnetism. If you heat a magnet up a little bit, it will lose some of its magnetism, but on returning to room temperature [depending on how high it was heated, and on the shape of the magnet itself], full magnetism can be restored.
Nope, need around 750 deg F and above.

Don't hammer the rotor magnets!

Hammering or jarring: the mechanical disturbance tends to randomize the magnetic domains. This will leave some residual magnetization.
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D.T. screwed with this post 10-16-2012 at 06:44 PM
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:33 PM   #15
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Well some magnets sure are brittle. One little tap randomized it all right!



Not a clue yet on measuring magnetism accurately and if banging can reduce it ever just so slightly to f....up an alternator but I know where there are a few rotors. I may just bang one this week and put some weights to it before and after.

I miss banging on things....too many warnings "not to" nowadays.
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