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Old 07-31-2012, 07:52 PM   #31
MotoJ
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I'm still crying myself to sleep about having to mess with the paint!

C'est la vie!

Maybe I'll just repaint it the original colors instead...

What do y'all think? :O
Wait 'til you get the tug and see what that suggests. It might have its own personality that calls for something completely different.
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:08 PM   #32
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The CB900C (he swears it's a 1980 "Supersport", which according to my reading is the CB900F, but he says it has the 2-speed jackshaft, which was an artifact only found on the CB900C) is due to magically appear in my yard while I am on the road with work on Friday.

I am almost as pumped as Robert Hamburger, but will probably be less so when I see how much work it needs.

Still, it will get the ZX2 out of my flowerbed, regardless. :3

95 ponies (as measured in 1980 ponies, that is) ought to be enough to haul that Ural chair around!!!
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:48 PM   #33
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The CB900C (he swears it's a 1980 "Supersport", which according to my reading is the CB900F, but he says it has the 2-speed jackshaft, which was an artifact only found on the CB900C) is due to magically appear in my yard while I am on the road with work on Friday.

I am almost as pumped as Robert Hamburger, but will probably be less so when I see how much work it needs.

Still, it will get the ZX2 out of my flowerbed, regardless. :3

95 ponies (as measured in 1980 ponies, that is) ought to be enough to haul that Ural chair around!!!
Who's Robert Hamburger? Is he like Mr. Creosote? Wafer thin?

With that HP, and the 80s styling, maybe you should go for a more sinister MadMax look...
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Old 08-02-2012, 03:22 AM   #34
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Who's Robert Hamburger?
He's the "Ninjas are Mammals" guy. :P
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Old 08-03-2012, 02:21 PM   #35
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Truck got busy with his buddies while I was gone, and the 900 is in my yard now.

It's in more boxes than I expected, and the tank is pretty rusty. But the engine turns over when I put it in high gear and yank on the wheel....

A skeleton!


The ubiquitous "Box o' Parts", common to most all $100 motorcycles...


The tank, in my favorite CB900C color, which is something of a shame because.....


Ewww. I'll probably have to strip it to make sure there aren't any pinholes once I get the rust out of the inside. :<


And the massive Fairing, which will be nice in the winter. But I dunno if I want to use it in the non-winter months or not..................


Edit: Oh yeah, there is a seat too, in good shape, but I forgot to take a photo of it.
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:25 PM   #36
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I'm enjoying watching this come together.

When you finish stripping, have you considered spraying rhino liner or similar bedliner inside the tub to keep it from getting beat up and rusting?
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:03 PM   #37
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I will probably put some kind of lining on the floor and up the sides 0.5-1.0 inch. But I'm not sure yet.......

I am planning to build some kind of oaken duckboards instead of using the rubber mat, though. I don't like the way water hangs out underneath of rubber and doesn't evaporate.
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:21 AM   #38
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I will probably put some kind of lining on the floor and up the sides 0.5-1.0 inch. But I'm not sure yet.......

I am planning to build some kind of oaken duckboards instead of using the rubber mat, though. I don't like the way water hangs out underneath of rubber and doesn't evaporate.
Make them with some sort of rigid strap to tie the slats together. Some kind of plastic maybe? The ones on the ribbons just slide around under the passenger's feet and bunch up. I ended up cutting down a bargain minivan floor mat. There's never been water underneath.

You'll be surprised how little water gets in under the tonneau cover. I did put a weephole in the lowest part o the tub, but not sure I needed to.

I POR15'd everything and emptied a can of aerosol undercoating on the bottom for good measure. No rust a year later.
Of course you have to make sure you get all the existing rust arrested before you paint over it.
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:24 PM   #39
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I was thinking about bolting them to a narrow piece of channel, countersunk into the wood, and then put rubber feet on that to keep it up out of any water that decides to stand in the bottom. Hopefully that'll keep it from rust/rotting for a good long time.
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Old 08-04-2012, 05:40 PM   #40
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Time to remove some rust from inside the tank!

Man, it's bad. I shook a ton of loose rust dust out of it, then rinsed it out good with water at the hydrant.

I'm going to try electrolysis! I've never tried this before, so this will be interesting!

Bill of materials! Washing Soda (calcium carbonate, not sodium bicarbonate; I hear salt works too), The beefiest DC power source you can find. Scrap iron or steel anode. Insulator or hanger.



I used the neck of a carb cleaner bottle for an insulator. The water/rust must be able to get through the insulator and bond to the anode, hence the holes.



Tank full of water. One heaping tablespoon of washing soda per gallon of water. Mixing it in a higher concentration won't speed the process. I just eyeballed it and dumped a bunch in....



The hole for the petcock must be plugged, of course. I whittled a plug out of a twig and jammed it in there good. Don't use metal, especially a metal other than steel, or weird things will supposedly happen during the reverse electroplating process.... Something nonconductive. Wood, rubber, cork.



Once the anode is in, the water in the tank is topped off to where it just overflows. Bubbles start to form on the anode. These are hydrogen bubbles. Electrolysis splits the water into hydrogen and oxygen atoms, so the water will slowly boil off and need to be replenished. As the electrons flow from the - tank to the + anode, they pick up the rust as they leave the tank. The rust is carried to the anode, and left there when the electron goes into the anode and travels back to the power supply.



It is working very slowly. I think I need a beefier battery charger. My little trickle charger just ain't cutting it. :P

About 30 minutes later, we can see a little rust starting to stick to the anode...



Much later in the night, a rust soup begins to form around the anode. Don't forget to keep the water topped off as well as you can!



According to the interwebs, this process takes a couple of weeks, unless you use a really Serious power supply.

Also, the areas closer to the anode supposedly lose more rust than the areas farther away.

Once the rebar gets the worst of the mess out, I am going to replace it with a metal clothes hanger that reaches much farther down into the tank. You must make sure that the tank and the anode are never actually touching, though!

Leaf screwed with this post 08-04-2012 at 05:58 PM
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:04 PM   #41
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http://www.por15.com/SPECIAL-Sealer-...oductinfo/S7Q/

If worse comes to worse, this stuff works.
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:40 PM   #42
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A can of that stuff came with the bike, actually. :P I'm not sure how old it is, though. The can is a bit rusty, which seems ironic. :P

Does that stuff peel the same way Kreem does? I am a little leery of using a tank liner. :x

If the electrolysis makes for failcakes, I'm going to try toilet bowl cleaner, then maybe a liner of some kind. Heck, I might slosh some toilet bowl cleaner around in there, followed by some phosphoric acid, followed by a diesel rinse, anyway....
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:07 PM   #43
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I've used it on two tanks. One's over a year and no problems. Kreem sucks. It's way out-classed nowadays.
You need to use the Prep & Ready etcher with the POR. It neutralizes the rust. Then swirl the POR sealer in there. It has to be perfectly dry first. There are directions on the website.
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:13 PM   #44
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What is your opinion on using a liner like that if I find pinholes? Think it'll split open like a ripe melon someday, even if I JB Weld 'em?

Though I guess with no lingering gas fumes, there's nothing stopping me from welding on it.....
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Old 08-05-2012, 05:01 AM   #45
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What is your opinion on using a liner like that if I find pinholes? Think it'll split open like a ripe melon someday, even if I JB Weld 'em?

Though I guess with no lingering gas fumes, there's nothing stopping me from welding on it.....
Many moons ago I was part timing in a foreign car repair shop. We had a car come in with a leaky gas tank, my job was to empty & drop the tank. The shop owner rinsed it with water than hooked a hose to the shop trucks exhaust and ran it to the tank. With the exhaust running through the tank (purging the O2) he proceeded to braze the holes closed.
Freaked me out!
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