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Old 08-05-2012, 05:38 AM   #46
MotoJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leaf View Post
What is your opinion on using a liner like that if I find pinholes? Think it'll split open like a ripe melon someday, even if I JB Weld 'em?

Though I guess with no lingering gas fumes, there's nothing stopping me from welding on it.....
Check out the site. They make an epoxy stick for holes and also a seam filler that's in a tube. Use those on the outside and the sealer on the inside.
I don't want to seem like a shill for the stuff, but it really worked for me. DON'T use JB Weld. The tolulene and other crap in pump gas will dissolve it.

Welding it would be the most foolproof, but easy to burn through where the seams make the turn to sheetmetal.
I've heard of guys filling the tank with water then welding it.
You could try a short section with plumber's solder, flux, and a torch. It would take forever probably, but it should work.

That o2 purging technique for brazing sounds pretty ingenius!


PLAN B:
http://www.yellowpages.com/baltimore...5?lid=11908145

Call Dean and ask him if he has a tank. Huge warehouse of mostly UJM and dirtbikes. Your eyes would pop out of your head...
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MotoJ screwed with this post 08-05-2012 at 06:00 AM
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Old 08-05-2012, 08:23 AM   #47
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The next day, after bubbling all night. Drained the narsty rust-water. I can see a little bare metal!!!



Seems to be working!!! Refilled with clean water and washing soda, turned the anode around, and the process continues....

It seems to be working a lot faster now. I theorize that the resistance gets lower as the rust breaks away, allowing more electrons to flow.
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Old 08-05-2012, 09:58 AM   #48
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Science is frickin awesome!
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Old 08-05-2012, 06:41 PM   #49
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As I began to tear down the front end (both the brakes and the forks need to be rebuilt), I discovered that the crash bar and fairing are both being held on with pipe straps!!! And the oil cooler is bolted to the fairing mounts, with english bolts, and the proper bolts to put it back on the frame are missing! This doesn't fly, not even in Leaf Land! >:O

It appears that the crash bar /will/ mount properly once the fairing mount is gone, so it's official: Fairing goes to the junkbin, and I'll just put a windshield with an apron on it. This means I'll probably also have to find some headlight ears, if not a bucket, too.



Front end all tore down except for the triple-trees. The factory toolkit is missing, and I don't have a wrench big enough for the steering head nuts (other than crescent wrenches, and that ain't going to happen on the steering head lol), so I'll take it off when I haul the frame+engine down to the machine shop to pull the motor. There is significant resistance and jerkiness in the steering head, so I figure the bearings need replaced there, too. The oil cooler is just hanging there with tie wire for now.



More parts for the parts box! Ima have to get a bigger parts box....... And it is getting difficult to reach my front door. X_x I believe I'm going to have to build a bike barn, soon. Grumble.



I think I'm going to end up bolting the passenger pegs to the crash bar, pointing out (since they fold up) and junkbinning the highway pegs that are on it. The engine is too wide to get your feet on them pointing in like that!

Leaf screwed with this post 08-05-2012 at 06:55 PM
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Old 08-08-2012, 08:27 AM   #50
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Oh my god, I'm having flashbacks to Purple Rain as seen in my avatar! Can you spot the problem, kids?

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Old 08-08-2012, 04:15 PM   #51
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Carb bank all stripped down for rebuilding. First, a nice soak in a basket can.

I like to soak and rebuild them one at a time so I don't get parts mixed up between carbs. It probably doesn't matter, but I am weird like that.......



Here's #3 pre-dip. Pretty filthy. There's even varnish (or some kind of gunk) in the air cut chamber. O_o The pilot passage is a solid mass of varnish. I hope they are salvageable!

The PO supposedly cleaned them. But as far as I can tell, all that was done was to take the float bowls off two of them, lose half the screws, break the needle holder off one of the floats, and get some kind of sticky crap all over the vacuum pistons.



More parts. I like to dump all the large parts into a large ziplock bag, label it with the carb number, and then separate the metal from the nonmetal parts into smaller bags and put all that in the bigger labeled bag too.



I've never rebuilt one with an accelerator pump on it. I had to remove the choke idler linkage and pull the cotter pin off the one end of the accelerator pump linkage to get all the plastic bits out so I could soak it. Stupid me forgot to take a picture of how it's supposed to look, so I hope I can get it back together again. >_>

Regardless, I think I'd be hard pressed to do a worse job than the PO. I am nonplussed. Floats are expensive, and the new ones are white and don't match my tan ones. :/
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Old 08-08-2012, 05:38 PM   #52
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I left you a link for Dean at Baltimore Cycle Salvage in a previous post. Call him and see what he has. You might find a whole bank of carbs cheap. He's a straight shooter.
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Old 08-08-2012, 06:19 PM   #53
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Thanks! I definitely will if these give me too much guff.

I think I can get 'em working, though. Assuming I can get the choke idler and accelerator pump linkages back together. >_>
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Old 08-08-2012, 07:28 PM   #54
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Good grief!

I started trying to tear down the rear end while the #1 carb soaked. The aftermarket exhaust is in the way of getting a wrench or socket on the axle nut, and of course the joint between the muffler and the headers is rusted solid. The mufflers are toast anyway, so application of a BFH made a dent large enough let me get a wrench on the axle nut.

... Which wouldn't budge, even using another wrench as a cheater. I had to use lots and lots of PBblaster, a breaker bar, a bigger dent, and a 4' section of cheater pipe to get that thing to budge. But it finally came. And lo, a nasty white mess of dried up grease clogging the threads beneath it (I guess that's what it is!).

Fortunately it only took one shot of PB to get the pinch bolt good and loose.

So I started driving the axle out with a drift. And pounded and pounded, and she ain't budging. Surely it doesn't thread into the final drive.... Does the axle turn when I stick my socket extension in the little hole on the other side? No. What if I use a wrench for a cheater? Oops, I broke my socket extension.

Thinking maybe I missed something, I went back inside and checked the HSM again:

(1) On centerstand. Check.
(2) Remove axle nut. Check.
(3) Loosen pinch bolt. Check.
(4) Remove axle. Grumble!

So, back out with the drift and a bigger hammer.

I finally got it to move about a quarter inch and it hung up again. By this time, it was starting to get dark and I didn't want to disturb the neighbors with my banging.

If I still had that electric jackhammer, I could stick a piece of rebar in the end and drive that bastard right out of there... (We used to drive 10' ground rods through rocky ground with it at the electric company; worked great!)

I 'spect with it that stuck and all that pounding, I'm gonna have to be shopping for wheel bearings no matter what......

Which leads me into a short treatise on Working on Junk Like This:

This old rusted out junk can be damned contrary sometimes. But you've gotta just be cool/zen and keep pecking away at it. Getting mad never helps matters, so if ya start getting too annoyed, just stop before you break something, go do something else for a while, and wait until you are all zen again. :P
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Old 08-08-2012, 09:17 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoJ View Post
Check out the site. They make an epoxy stick for holes and also a seam filler that's in a tube. Use those on the outside and the sealer on the inside.
I don't want to seem like a shill for the stuff, but it really worked for me. DON'T use JB Weld. The tolulene and other crap in pump gas will dissolve it.

Welding it would be the most foolproof, but easy to burn through where the seams make the turn to sheetmetal.
I've heard of guys filling the tank with water then welding it.
You could try a short section with plumber's solder, flux, and a torch. It would take forever probably, but it should work.

That o2 purging technique for brazing sounds pretty ingenius!


PLAN B:
http://www.yellowpages.com/baltimore...5?lid=11908145

Call Dean and ask him if he has a tank. Huge warehouse of mostly UJM and dirtbikes. Your eyes would pop out of your head...

I've had bad luck with the stick epoxy.

Plumber's solder is the cat's ass for tank repair. I'll never use any sort of epoxy again!
Just clean the inside of the tank very well so no trace of gas is left, then sand the rust holes down to shiny metal. I dented the holes in slightly, don't know if that's a hafta' do thing or not though. Add flux, heat the metal with a propane torch and flow the solder on (melt it on the hot metal, not with the torch!).
Done properly, the solder WILL NOT come loose. It's also easy to blend the lines back in so you can't tell it's there. (Before Bondo, they used lead...).

For big holes, you can add a patch and solder that in place too.
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Old 08-09-2012, 04:26 PM   #56
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Well, here goes the tally again. :P

Tug: Free, plus...

$34.00 for a used float to replace a broken one in the #3 carb, from an ebay breaker.

$171.95 for gaskets, o-rings, idle circuit plugs, air cut valves + springs, float bowl screws for all 4 carbs, plus accelerator pump rod/spring/accordion, plus choke butterfly screws, plus cotter pin for the accelerator pump linkage from Randakk's. I probably could have gotten all that a little cheaper separately on ebay, but I'm not sure it'd have been worth the hassle to scrounge it all up.

Tug total so far: $205.95

The carb kit doesn't come with float valves, but I have two brand new ones of the same part number out of a CB400T kit. So I'll use those two and whichever two used ones are in the best condition, with a dab of wintergreen oil rubbed into the tips.
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Old 08-10-2012, 09:42 AM   #57
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To preserve thread continuity, a link to the discussion on wheel and tire options:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=816019
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Old 08-10-2012, 12:12 PM   #58
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#1 carb, soaked for a day, toothbrushed and shot out with spray carb cleaner, soaked for another day, toothbrushed and shot out with carb cleaner again. All the passages seem clear, so I'm gonna call that good enough. #3 is in the can now...

Slow going, but I'd rather take a little time the first time around and not have to take the carbs on an off more than a few times (seems like there is always something still plugged somewhere the first couple times!). :3

I missed taking the little plastic washer off the jet needle! D:= It seems ok though.... I don't think that parts cleaner is quite as caustic as carb spray.

Rebuild kits and the replacement float shipped today. At the rate I'm going, it should all be here long before I finish cleaning the carbs. :P



Quick test spray of the new colors, on the sidecar nose, to compare against old. It's not as bad as I first thought after getting the paint, I guess. We'll see how it looks when it cures a little more.

Notice how a fly has already gotten stuck in it. -_-'

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Old 08-10-2012, 01:57 PM   #59
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Dig it!

Nice choice.
Here's Krylon's color: Blue Ocean Breeze. Very retro...

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Old 08-10-2012, 02:10 PM   #60
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I was going to mask the areas where the paint joins with chrome trim tape, but I read that it doesn't bend around sharp curves very well. So I am using black instead. 1/4".

I think it will be somewhat snazzy, if I don't get too many bugs / orange peel (though the Ural paint is fairly orangepeely anyway).

Gotta get that tug running and roadworthy first, though! Though I probably ought to just go ahead and paint the frame when I get the motor out, so I don't have to pull it twice......

Do ya reckon I ought to leave the frame black? I was going to paint it in the same blue.
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