Guzzi Weirdness

[SlackerSteve]

I wish my R50/2 had that paint job on it. SERIOUSLY, don't paint it and blend in.

[Wirespokes]

I'm jealous! I'd love to have a T3, and in as nice a shape as that one.

I think the bike looks fine, except for the mufflers, and they're only a slight distraction. Of course, I'd never think of a paint scheme like that, but it appears to be well done, and for some reason I like it. Can't say why...

First thing I'd do is lower bars, then add another front disc.

Where was it for sale? What did you give for it?

[oldhippie1]

If you don't want to spend the money for Guzzi mufflers look into Bub's. Join the club like I suggested and run an advert for some good used mufflers.

[LonerDave]

Originally Posted by Wirespokes

...

Where was it for sale? What did you give for it?

The bike was on Craigslist here in Milwaukee. At the risk of looking like a fool or a thief, I paid $1,700.

[Sniper X]

It's what these two ride.

[Sniper X]

Originally Posted by LonerDave

The bike was on Craigslist here in Milwaukee. At the risk of looking like a fool or a thief, I paid $1,700.

That's a deal. I would ride it as is since those pipes are so bitchin in a 1950s Sci Fi Ray Gun way.

[pigeyes]

Originally Posted by thumpism

The Guzzi flames aren't bad, just plain. Needs outlining and contrasting shading as the Norton has.

Mate that ain't a flame job, that's a box jellyfish and they can be deadly!
mick

[Ddouble]

I have run the EMGO Dunstall replicas on a couple of my Tonti Guzzis. They look good and sound really great IMO. They are quite a bit louder than stockers.

[drhach]

So it finally sold. I eyed that several times wishing I had the cash to go get it. I think given the house in the background of the picture, you really had no right to expect anything less. All the same, it doesn't look like it iwll take much to put that right. Wanna trade straight across for a 72 Sportster?

[LonerDave]

Originally Posted by Ddouble

I have run the EMGO Dunstall replicas on a couple of my Tonti Guzzis. They look good and sound really great IMO. They are quite a bit louder than stockers.

Thanks. Bought a set of these. At about $50 a pop, worth it to see how it changes the look and sound.

Originally Posted by drhach

So it finally sold. I eyed that several times wishing I had the cash to go get it. I think given the house in the background of the picture, you really had no right to expect anything less. All the same, it doesn't look like it iwll take much to put that right. Wanna trade straight across for a 72 Sportster?

Yeah, had been on CL for a while. The seller lives down the street from the Caddy house and placed it there for better exposure. Suspect some passers-by just thought it was the latest addition to his outdoor gallery. Here're pix of house. http://blog.markcz.com/cudahy-wisconsin-cadillac-yard/ BTW, the shark is now attached to his garage.

[Bongolia]

Keep the tank. Enjoy the bike. In three years time there will be a cafe backlash and flames will be big. Blaze the trail.

[LonerDave]

The decision about new exhausts kind of made itself for me. The fishtails were rusting through. Bought a set of Dunstall replicas from Emgo ($55 each from JCWhitney).

I like the look and they are a bit quieter than the holey fishtails. Worth the coin, IMHO.



Have spent the past couple weeks sorting various mechanical things.

Adjusted valve lash to .006" and .008" (intake and and exhaust, respectively) instead of the .009" called for in the manual, based on feedback from the InterWebs (Pete Roper, others). Valves still put up a racket, but livable.

Checked timing with strobe and couldn't see any marks, so opened up the distributor to double-check the Dyna III's positions. Timed it with a test light to the "static" marks (2-3 degrees BTDC). Now the strobe shows what I believe are the "advanced" marks (two centerpunched dots 30 or so degrees BTDC) at idle. Runs better than before, but suspect it needs some additional work. Does the Dyna replace the advance mechanism entirely?

Adjusted and synched carbs (using DIY manometer). Again, running better than it did.

Think I'll keep the flames for now, but would like to do something about the peeling chrome on the valve covers. Any ideas on a cheap and safe way to strip the chrome? I read that soaking them in cola will strip them. Or muriatic acid. Or reverse the plating process. I'd like to get them down to just the clean base aluminum and run them that way. I'd appreciate any ideas.

Thanks.

Dave

[Mandello]

Adjusted valve lash to .006" and .008" (intake and and exhaust, respectively) instead of the .009" called for in the manual, based on feedback from the InterWebs (Pete Roper, others). Valves still put up a racket, but livable

It's not a racket but the "sound" Guzzi valves make when they're happy. A lot of people reduce the gap to lessen this sound but your bike will run hotter as a result.. smaller gaps means = less air flow.

[F_Sahms]

Originally Posted by Mandello

Adjusted valve lash to .006" and .008" (intake and and exhaust, respectively) instead of the .009" called for in the manual, based on feedback from the InterWebs (Pete Roper, others). Valves still put up a racket, but livable

It's not a racket but the "sound" Guzzi valves make when they're happy. A lot of people reduce the gap to lessen this sound but your bike will run hotter as a result.. smaller gaps means = less air flow.

Smaller gaps = valve stays open slightly longer, so less time closed, during which the valve can transfer heat to the valve seat.

[SeanF]

Originally Posted by LonerDave

Checked timing with strobe and couldn't see any marks, so opened up the distributor to double-check the Dyna III's positions. Timed it with a test light to the "static" marks (2-3 degrees BTDC). Now the strobe shows what I believe are the "advanced" marks (two centerpunched dots 30 or so degrees BTDC) at idle. Runs better than before, but suspect it needs some additional work. Does the Dyna replace the advance mechanism entirely?

Hi

The Dyna only replaces the points. The advance is still handled by the springs & weights. If the springs are original they may be clapped out, and/or the pivots for the weights may need a dash of lube.

I found it difficult to get the timing just right on my T using the usual methods. So I did the following: Pick a cylinder. Rotate the engine until the full advance mark for that cylinder is centered in the inspection hole on the trans. Then rotate the advance mechanism using a wide slotted screwdriver until it is at full advance. With your third hand () adjust the pickup sensor until it is just switching on. I found that it does not line up with the mark on the dyna rotor, so use a test light to find that point & make a new mark.

It's basically static timing at full advance. I think the method is good; I just returned from an 900 mile weekend, returned 50mpg, bike ran strong with zero pinging. Stock carbs & jetting, 51k miles.

The T is a good bike. Mine is probably my favorite bike ever.