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Old 08-20-2012, 06:45 PM   #46
Mandello
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Eek

Quote:
Originally Posted by F_Sahms View Post
Smaller gaps = valve stays open slightly longer, so less time closed, during which the valve can transfer heat to the valve seat.
Correct, Smaller gap = hotter engine
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Old 08-21-2012, 07:57 AM   #47
LonerDave OP
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Guess I'll reconsider the valve clearance. Received Guzziology yesterday and Dave's position is in line with what I'm reading here - noisy valves are happy valves.

He also mentions ignition advance springs sometimes losing their springiness. What?!? They only last 40 or so years? I suppose I'll have to replace them again in 2050! Will check them out tonight.

Thanks all.
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:06 PM   #48
nick949eldo
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Valve clatter

Its isn't noise - its the chirping of crickets. A happy sound.

These aren't modern water cooled engines, and they aren't and shouldn't be quiet.

Nick
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:35 AM   #49
LonerDave OP
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Thanks guys.

Nick, just started reading your Trans-Lab ride report. I'm inspired!

Dave
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Old 08-25-2012, 12:05 PM   #50
Rob Farmer
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Dave,

That bike looks great. Keep the paint it's very Austin Powers, you need to get kitted out to suit



Quote:
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I like the look and they are a bit quieter than the holey fishtails. Worth the coin, IMHO.

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Old 08-25-2012, 05:39 PM   #51
Carter Pewterschmidt
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You got that thing for $1700? Damn, I should have bought it...
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:38 PM   #52
LonerDave OP
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Adjusted valves to .22mm (OK, a tight .009") per owner's manual and sage advice from here. Noise level isn't objectionable and I feel better about the looseness, heat-wise.

Replaced distributor advance springs and cleaned pivot points for weights. Re-timed ignition at full advance. Re-balanced carbs. Seems to be running very good now.

Between the tapping of the valves, the growl from the exhaust and the honking from the K&N pods underneath the seat, I've got a real symphony going on. Oh but what a wonderful song!
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:51 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LonerDave View Post
Adjusted valves to .22mm (OK, a tight .009") per owner's manual and sage advice from here. Noise level isn't objectionable and I feel better about the looseness, heat-wise.

Replaced distributor advance springs and cleaned pivot points for weights. Re-timed ignition at full advance. Re-balanced carbs. Seems to be running very good now.

Between the tapping of the valves, the growl from the exhaust and the honking from the K&N pods underneath the seat, I've got a real symphony going on. Oh but what a wonderful song!

It's a visceral experience for sure. Enjoy the ride!
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:15 AM   #54
BubbaJim
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Cool2 Just ride it man!

Quote:
Originally Posted by LonerDave View Post
Adjusted valves to .22mm (OK, a tight .009") per owner's manual and sage advice from here. Noise level isn't objectionable and I feel better about the looseness, heat-wise.

Between the tapping of the valves, the growl from the exhaust and the honking from the K&N pods underneath the seat, I've got a real symphony going on. Oh but what a wonderful song!
You've done the right things there and now you are reaping the rewards! You have a Guzzi that looks different from the mainstream - and what's wrong with that? - but more importantly you have a bike that runs well and is making all the right noises too.

Get out there and enjoy that thang as it is.....you won't regret it for a minute!
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:58 AM   #55
Andy-Gadget
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Do not, ever, trust Guzzi flywheel timing marks, ever!

My Cali 2 didn't have any marks at all, AND it has a dyna ignition fitted, how the PO timed it I don't know, but ran lots better when actually timed to new marks.

And my Mille GT had its factory marks out by 15 degrees advanced, Geseppi had a few too many reds at lunch that day.

Do a positive stop check of the timing marks, and I will bet you a drink sometime that they are out.
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'95 Sport 1100 Guzzi,'84 Cali 2 Guzzi, '95 Guzzi mille, '84 R65LS, '84 R100, '82 R100RS, '05 DL650, '72 Bultaco Sherpa T 350, '78 Montessa 348, "00 XR650R

Andy-Gadget screwed with this post 08-28-2012 at 03:05 AM
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Old 09-24-2012, 01:19 PM   #56
LonerDave OP
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Andy,

Put together a positive stop device and checked the timing marks. To my surprise, TDC marks for both cylinders were dead on. In the words of Dan Hicks, "Make mine a Harvey Wallbanger!"

In other news, was trying to identify the source of an oil leak between the jugs. Discovered that one of the coils was leaking. Not sure if that's what's causing the mess, but ordered a couple epoxy-filled Pertronix Flame-Thrower coils to replace the original Marellis. $32 a piece. Could have gotten some cheaper, oil-filled ones (cross reference to a late 70's VW beetle!), but these are recommended in Guzziology and by Greg Bender.

Hope the weather holds out for a few more weeks. Between the Guzzi coils and the ethanol-rotted fuel lines in the Ducati tank, I'm down to just the R90 for riding. Not ready for the end of the season yet.

LonerDave screwed with this post 09-24-2012 at 03:47 PM
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Old 09-24-2012, 03:10 PM   #57
nick949eldo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LonerDave View Post
Andy,


In other news, was trying to identify the source of an oil leak between the jugs. (:
Check that the clamps holding the rubber tubes beneath the crankcase breather box are tight and aren't split. I pondered a persistent mess of oil between the cylinders for ages before figuring out what was happening. I took 30 seconds to fix with a screwdriver.

Nick

PS Make sure to put the right amount of oil in the crankcase (usually 3L). Too much and the engine will blow it out of the breather hose. They don't like too much oil.
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Old 09-24-2012, 05:26 PM   #58
Andy-Gadget
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LonerDave View Post
Andy,

Put together a positive stop device and checked the timing marks. To my surprise, TDC marks for both cylinders were dead on. In the words of Dan Hicks, "Make mine a Harvey Wallbanger!"

In other news, was trying to identify the source of an oil leak between the jugs. Discovered that one of the coils was leaking. Not sure if that's what's causing the mess, but ordered a couple epoxy-filled Pertronix Flame-Thrower coils to replace the original Marellis. $32 a piece. Could have gotten some cheaper, oil-filled ones (cross reference to a late 70's VW beetle!), but these are recommended in Guzziology and by Greg Bender.

Hope the weather holds out for a few more weeks. Between the Guzzi coils and the ethanol-rotted fuel lines in the Ducati tank, I'm down to just the R90 for riding. Not ready for the end of the season yet.
Wonders will never stop, good to hear about the timing marks, I will have to change my attitude to Guzzi build quality, for the better.
As to coils, Where are they mounted?
I have room under the side cover on both my Cali 2 and my Mille, for transformer style coils, much better than the conventional coils for starting and general work.
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An investment in knowledge always pays the best interest"
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'95 Sport 1100 Guzzi,'84 Cali 2 Guzzi, '95 Guzzi mille, '84 R65LS, '84 R100, '82 R100RS, '05 DL650, '72 Bultaco Sherpa T 350, '78 Montessa 348, "00 XR650R
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Old 09-25-2012, 08:09 AM   #59
LonerDave OP
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Andy,

Coils are located roughly between the cylinders. One hangs from the top tube



And the other hangs right below it from a bracket between the top rails.

Hope the new coils can be squeezed into that space.

Here's a shot of the leaking coil. Not sure what caused the deformation and hole.



Nick,

With regard to the tubes that lead to the breather box, here they are.

Hoses seem intact but I notice a gap around each tube (crankcase vent and oil return?). I found some old hard rubber washers around each one, but wonder if the gap needs to be sealed somehow? The washers wouldn't create much of a seal and were simply held in place by the rubber hose that connects to each tube. Should I find a way (RTV silicone?) to seal them?

Thanks.

Dave

LonerDave screwed with this post 09-25-2012 at 08:25 AM
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:44 AM   #60
F_Sahms
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The metal breather and oil line coming up from the clutch cavity do not need to be sealed to the crankcase. The clutch cavity is open to the atmosphere at the bottom anyway.

The seal that's important is between the rubber hoses and those pipes. And the fat one needs a check valve (there's an original flapper in the breather box, but I disable them and slip the later ball-check valve into the hose.)

It looks like someone banged that coil on something and cracked the thin casing.

Issat a solid-state voltage regulator just forward of the coil?
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