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Old 10-06-2014, 06:13 PM   #1
ehatcher OP
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Location: Eastern PA
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Rust never sleeps

A family member recently passed away and I wound up with a 1999 7.3 diesel F250 with around 230,000 miles. The truck is mechanically sound, but the frame is very rusty. One of the cross members is pretty well shot and needs to be replaced, but the rest of the frame is still solid....for now. This truck was in NY state and apparently everything up there rusts away.

Short of replacing the frame, what is the best way to slow/stop the rust? I see lots of products that claim to fix/stop/convert rust, no idea what might actually work. I don't mind putting some effort in - but I am not pulling the body off or going over the whole frame with a wire wheel.

Or was Neil right and I should just get rid of it?
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Old 10-06-2014, 06:49 PM   #2
k-moe
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Get a 5 gallon bucket of Evaporust. Fill a garden sprayer, and douse the frame with it. Don't forget to spray inside of any drain holes.

http://www.evaporust.com

Follow up with a rust converter, or POR-15.
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Old 10-07-2014, 04:19 AM   #3
32x20
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I did some floor pan and rust repair on a Fiat I had a few years back and used rust-mort as a rust converter and then primed and painted using rustoleum 'rusty metal' primer and topcoated with a rustoleam topcoat. I remember going with rustoleum because I think it had some kind of oils in the paint which seemed like a good idea and it wasn't going to be visible until you pulled floor mats so matching colors wasn't an issue. I never saw any signs that any rust was coming back. To be fair, I didn't store it in a rust-prone environment but it did get driven during a couple of tropical storms when my truck broke down.

Any of the phosphoric acid based rust converters work in the same manner but some are more concentrated than others (rust-mort, ospho, naval jelly). I have no experience with the evaporust stuff, though. I think with all of them you need to plan to seal them with some kind of paint/coating. POR15 is supposed to work really well over rust but it is expensive.

I'm back to researching this again to nip some rust before it becomes a problem (different vehicle). I'll probably go with the same plan for any underbody rust but will go with self etching primer and a matching paint for small areas of body rust.
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Old 10-07-2014, 05:13 AM   #4
sanjoh
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In my limited experience with rust, it follows a reverse Pareto. You are only seeing 20% of the rust, remaining 80% will be revealed when you begin working on it

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Old 10-07-2014, 07:15 AM   #5
ehatcher OP
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The evaporust looks promising - that seems like the right way to go. I have a 4000 psi power washer I can do the frame with first to get it clean. Their website says people have had good luck brushing it on and scrubbing a little bit. 90% of the frame is pretty easy to reach on this truck.


Not really sure what to topcoat with, POR 15 seems expensive, Eastwood has some more reasonably priced products...I have had good luck with Rustoleum products but this would be a much more demanding job than I have tried them on in the past.


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I............ You are only seeing 20% of the rust, remaining 80% will be revealed when you begin working on it
Seems like all of my projects kinda go this way. Don't get me started on what I have run into while working on our 100 year old house. Still, like an complete idiot who never learns from past experience, I always head off into these things with 100% confidence in the best case scenario. I appreciate your assessment which is all too likely to be true


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Old 10-07-2014, 09:25 AM   #6
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Eastwood seems to have a pretty good selection of stuff to treat rust. If you're the studious type you could look into sacrificial anodes, like the ones used on ships in salt water. Way back in the day, for instance, there were zinc inner fender liners available for cars which would decay instead of the metal in the fenders.
I had to study rust while working on a degree in archaeology - surprisingly interesting.
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Old 10-07-2014, 11:50 AM   #7
131unlimited
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07 Jeep rubicon - many salty, long winters along with hurrincane Irene and Sandy...

Every summer - power wash all underneath, let it dry, get busy with a wire brush and some scotch brite pads. Buy a case of flat black rustoleum spray paint.

The first time doing it, it took a lot of time and paint to get it all done. Now that it's been painted several times, it's easy to get underneath and spot the places that need to be sanded and repainted, it's quick and easy to maintain.

For me, it's a cheap and effective way to keep the rust under control and ensure the jeep lasts and looks good too.
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Old 10-07-2014, 12:32 PM   #8
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I can hear my Bronco outside rusting as I type.
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Old 10-07-2014, 12:50 PM   #9
TheOtherBart
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 131unlimited View Post
07 Jeep rubicon - many salty, long winters along with hurrincane Irene and Sandy...

Every summer - power wash all underneath, let it dry, get busy with a wire brush and some scotch brite pads. Buy a case of flat black rustoleum spray paint.

The first time doing it, it took a lot of time and paint to get it all done. Now that it's been painted several times, it's easy to get underneath and spot the places that need to be sanded and repainted, it's quick and easy to maintain.

For me, it's a cheap and effective way to keep the rust under control and ensure the jeep lasts and looks good too.
Is there anything under there you have to mask off?
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Old 10-07-2014, 12:51 PM   #10
Murf2
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I have had great results with this stuff! Len is also a great guy & the guys on the forum are a wealth of knowledge. http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...gory_Code=6RCC

Good luck with your project!
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Old 10-07-2014, 03:32 PM   #11
trailer Rails
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I would think about pulling the bed off. With the help of two more people, you take 8 bolts out holding the bed down, three screws out of the gas filler neck, one electrical connector. Lift it off and you can work on everything a lot easier.
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Old 10-07-2014, 04:17 PM   #12
Murf2
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+1 on lifting the bed. You can also use an engine hoist with a little rigging.
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Old 10-07-2014, 05:07 PM   #13
ehatcher OP
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I would think about pulling the bed off. With the help of two more people, you take 8 bolts out holding the bed down, three screws out of the gas filler neck, one electrical connector. Lift it off and you can work on everything a lot easier.
Forgot to mention it has a dump bed. Just gotta push a button to get access to the rear half of the frame, which does make things a bit easier.




E
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Old 10-07-2014, 05:46 PM   #14
trailer Rails
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Originally Posted by ehatcher View Post
Forgot to mention it has a dump bed. Just gotta push a button to get access to the rear half of the frame, which does make things a bit easier.




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That's cheating.
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Old 10-08-2014, 09:23 AM   #15
131unlimited
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Is there anything under there you have to mask off?
The exposed shaft of the sterring stabilzer, besides that , nothing else gets masked off. I make sure not to get it on the exhaust or brake rotors. I've spray painted so much that i'm comfortable with getting where i want it.
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