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Old 02-25-2015, 05:31 PM   #1
smacdab949 OP
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Should these be loose? (Sherco)

I have a 2002 Sherco 2.9

The front brake disc is slightly loose (play) in its mountings. It this for heat expansion or do I need to tighten it down? (All bolts equally).

The rear disc is not loose at all.

In addition, the rear sprocket is slightly loose (play) in its mountings (all bolts equally). Does this need to be tightened down or is that the way it should be?

thx!
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Old 02-25-2015, 05:38 PM   #2
lineaway
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The front disc is floating and should be this way. If the rear sprocket is loose you are about ready to spend about 400 bucks. I would pull all the bolts to see what problems you have. Good luck.
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Old 02-25-2015, 07:14 PM   #3
broncobowsher
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Floating rotor. That is what you have. Still used today.
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Old 02-26-2015, 06:18 AM   #4
motobene
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More detail.

With disc brakes there has to be 'float' or lateral give somewhere:

- caliper floating laterally on greased pins sealed by rubber boots (because some calipers have pistons only on one side of the disc)

Trials rear:

- caliper pistons float relative to a rigidly affixed disk via pistons or 'pucks' on both sides of the disc

Trials front is trials rear plus:

- the disc floats a bit on hub dodads

motobene screwed with this post 02-27-2015 at 07:11 AM
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Old 02-26-2015, 09:10 AM   #5
nuggets
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lineaway View Post
If the rear sprocket is loose you are about ready to spend about 400 bucks.
He speaks the truth.

An expensive paperweight.
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Old 02-26-2015, 11:16 AM   #6
Sting32
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let's be clear.

On the rear hub:
EVERYTHING should be tight! only way rear wheel and disc alignment can get wopper-jawed or anything, assuming chain tensioners are set right, is if/when rear wheel axle is loose, or swingarm breaks or wheel bearings go bad.
TIGHT: Disc and Sprocket and spokes!

Front HUB:
the front brake rotor floats, because the 2 forks can move (slightly)independently, and only held together with the axle and the fork brace which also holds the fender! if you take off the fender and brace, you can see the wheel move a bit side to side when in a bind, like balancing against stuff...

Just stating it all in one post for clarity...
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Old 02-26-2015, 01:29 PM   #7
smacdab949 OP
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Thanks for all of the replies.

I had a recent chain incident (slow speed crash), so maybe the bolts weren't loose for a long time...


Once I get a new chain and chain guide on, we'll see how it runs!
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Old 02-27-2015, 06:54 AM   #8
motobene
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How to help prevent problems with the rear hub:

Grease the M8 sprocket bolt threads. You will have more fastener tension as a result of torque and a better feel on torqueing. Don't bother with Loktite as the fasteners are Nylocks. Just before I tighten them I bias the sprocket slop toward the power direction, then tighten my first fastener.

I don't mess with the disc screws because they tend to be frozen in. I just make sure they are tight. The factory assembles the M6 low height socket head cap screws dry with Loktite, and after a few years they tend to corrode and stick in the hubs, and don't like to come out without impact with a chisel. If I do have to remove one or more of them, I lightly grease the threads then add some blue Loktite. Yes, you can use both thogether. The grease to prevent corrosion and freezing up, and the Locktite for some prevailing torque. Just make sure you don't get grease on the disc. Regardless of whether you think you do or not, it's a good idea to wipe the disc with clean paper tower after a spritz of disc cleaner or carburetor cleaner. If you don't have those use rubbing alcohol.

motobene screwed with this post 02-27-2015 at 07:07 AM
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