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Old 08-17-2012, 07:49 PM   #91
beemerphile
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowdymoose View Post
Anyone know how to check for error codes on this bike? I'm getting the Check Engine Light to come on on every ride now of about 5 miles or more (still under 100 miles total as I don't want to go on a long ride if there's something more serious).

Do modern bikes have OBD2 ports that I can connect a reader/scanner to?
Mr. Moose,

I got my service manual on the 700x today and I did a little digging on your check engine light. I am assuming that you have the manual transmission model. There is no OBD2 type of hookup to the computer. The DTC's are read like older Hondas by interpreting the flash code. If there is no flash code, but the MIL is on steady, there are a couple of troubleshooting checks between the ECM connector and ground. After that, it says to replace the ECU with a known good one.

ETA 8-18-2012: See post #104 for corrections and more info
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beemerphile screwed with this post 08-18-2012 at 07:51 AM
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Old 08-18-2012, 06:03 AM   #92
nc700x
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i have ridden this baby from istanbul to kazbeq 1600kms no problem at all.Just seat nees some gel my ass still hurts
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Old 08-18-2012, 07:18 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemerphile View Post
Mr. Moose,

I got my service manual on the 700x today and I did a little digging on your check engine light. I am assuming that you have the manual transmission model. There is no OBD2 type of hookup to the computer. The DTC's are read like older Hondas by interpreting the flash code. If there is no flash code, but the MIL is on steady, there are a couple of troubleshooting checks between the ECM connector and ground. After that, it says to replace the ECU with a known good one.
How do I get the flash codes to come up? Of course as luck would have it, the light hasn't come on all week while riding...go figure.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 08-18-2012, 07:26 AM   #94
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Originally Posted by nc700x View Post
i have ridden this baby from istanbul to kazbeq 1600kms no problem at all.Just seat nees some gel my ass still hurts
The first one to solve the seat riddle should get some kind of prize. It is the one glaring flaw in the bike. Congrats on the bike. It looks nicely equipped and you have a beautiful place to ride.

We had some ergonomics discussions earlier. I saw this link on a different ADV thread and thought I'd repost it here in case anyone wanted to have a look.

http://cycle-ergo.com

If you enter NC700 and CUSTOMIZE you can get the data for the bike with you on it and a number of common modifications. The knee bend on the bike is quite good as a starting point compared to any sport bike and most naked bikes. Since I am 6'-2" I am likely taller than the average Joe or Josie the bike was designed to fit and my ergos were improved with 1" up and 1" back on the bars and 2" up on the seat. I like a 5-6" forward lean for long distance comfort. I plan to make the 2" up on the seat by lowering the pegs one inch and raising the seat one inch with a Russell conversion. Whether I do the rise and setback with Rox style risers or with a replacement handlebar depends on where the numbers end up when I measure radial and ulnar deviation of the wrists. Click on the descriptions in this link to understand the topic of wrist deviation...

http://davisplus.fadavis.com/starkey...ar%20Deviation
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Old 08-18-2012, 07:47 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowdymoose View Post
How do I get the flash codes to come up? Of course as luck would have it, the light hasn't come on all week while riding...go figure.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
My first reading wasn't exactly correct last night. It looks to be as follows:

1) There is a tester called an "HDS Pocket Tester that can read the codes. It connects to a small DLC connector next to the positive battery terminal under the maintenance lid.

2) There is a jumper you can connect to the DLC connector that connects the brown and green wires (SCS Service Connector part number 070PZ-ZY30100). After connecting the jumper, you can read the first part of the code from the MIL light blink counts. The first part of the code gives the major area only. To get the second part of the code (the detail) you need the HDS pocket tester.

3) If the HDS is not available, the MIL will blink the current DTC (if one exists) when the ignition switch is on, the kill switch is set to run, and the sidestand is down. The MIL light will stay on if the engine speed is over 1,850 RPM or the sidestand is up. There are two type of blinks - long and short. For counting the MIL code, a long blink is (1.3 seconds) is equal to ten short (0.3 second) blinks. So a code of two longs and a short would be MIL code 21.

So, if there is a current problem, the DTC can be read by lowering the side stand with the engine idling in neutral. This will not show a stored but non-current DTC. That can only be done by the first two options. So, next time the MIL light comes on, pull over safely to the side of the road, hit neutral, and drop the sidestand. Read the code count.

BTW, if you can come up with a code, I can look it up for you and give you the major problem designation.
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beemerphile screwed with this post 08-18-2012 at 07:52 AM
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Old 08-18-2012, 11:27 AM   #96
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Heated Grips - heads up!

You'd think if you ordered a set of factory heated grips that everything you need would be in the box. Well, no. You have to order the installation kit. Okay, so now you think that you have everything you need because Honda says to install their HO08T71-MGS-A30 heated grips you need their HO8T710-MGS-A30 Grip Install Kit. Then, to make sure you don't break the hidden plastic tabs that hold the Tupperware (tm) on during the install, you spring for the HO61MGS00 NC700X/XD Service Manual. OK, done, you order the three items and go home with a lightened wallet. The parts come in and you journey down to the dealer and pick up your three items and off you go to install them.

And the instructions say...

1) "Connect the sub-harness (sold separately)"
2) "Install the relay and fuse (sold separately)"
3) "Install the left handlegrip using Pro Honda 08712-0001 cement (sold separately)

Project on hold, back to the dealer. Someone ought to be hung from the belltower.
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Old 08-18-2012, 01:26 PM   #97
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Great thread. Man I want one of these.
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Old 08-18-2012, 05:39 PM   #98
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Seat comfort is very personal. I rode my 700 440 miles to the mountains yesterday and 360 in the mountains today. I don't have a problem with the seat after the initial ride three weeks ago. Not everyone has my butt though. :)

This bike continues to surprise me. Ridden briskly cross country yesterday I averaged 69 mpg with stuff for a weekend. Today I was able to buy ethanol free premium and got 74 mpg riding mountain roads.
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:24 PM   #99
Loomis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemerphile View Post
You'd think if you ordered a set of factory heated grips that everything you need would be in the box. Well, no. You have to order the installation kit. Okay, so now you think that you have everything you need because Honda says to install their HO08T71-MGS-A30 heated grips you need their HO8T710-MGS-A30 Grip Install Kit. Then, to make sure you don't break the hidden plastic tabs that hold the Tupperware (tm) on during the install, you spring for the HO61MGS00 NC700X/XD Service Manual. OK, done, you order the three items and go home with a lightened wallet. The parts come in and you journey down to the dealer and pick up your three items and off you go to install them.

And the instructions say...

1) "Connect the sub-harness (sold separately)"
2) "Install the relay and fuse (sold separately)"
3) "Install the left handlegrip using Pro Honda 08712-0001 cement (sold separately)

Project on hold, back to the dealer. Someone ought to be hung from the belltower.
When I installed an aftermarket 12v socket into my storage tub this passed week, I saw a capped off connector that's taped off under the plastic on the left side. I also noticed an empty, but pre-wired "OP" fuse slot, and "OP" relay spot. I wasn't sure if they were for the OEM accessory outlet option, or the heated grips. Apparently it's for the grips. :P
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Old 08-18-2012, 11:55 PM   #100
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i am a cyclist and runner so i dont have any fat on my ass :) that means longer rides hit me hard.After 2 hours of riding my ass feels like ronjerem pounded all night long :)
Bye the way my bike with 2 up riding and full lagguage gets 3.5 litre per 100 km and my average speed is 90 kms
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Old 08-19-2012, 09:39 AM   #101
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I can see that I will want to do a lot of the upgrades that beemerphile is doing.(When time/money permits)
I think a Russell Day Long seat will be money well spent.
I too am disappointed with Honda having to cut the plastic for their luggage.
I may go with the Givi E41 Keyless instead of the V35, because the E45 has more room but is also thinner.
Also I like the idea of being able to open the case without a key.(I could keep a spare set of keys locked up in case I lost the primary set.)
I wonder if the length and height will be too much for the NC?
I'm still waiting for the Honda Shop manual, the dealers can't seem to get anything around here.
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Old 08-19-2012, 05:45 PM   #102
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I have located an NC700X specific forum and plan to do my future 700x postings exclusively over there. It's a pain to try to follow the action in two places. I will still frequent ADV for the rest of the banter.
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Old 08-19-2012, 06:14 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemerphile View Post
I have located an NC700X specific forum and plan to do my future 700x postings exclusively over there. It's a pain to try to follow the action in two places. I will still frequent ADV for the rest of the banter.
Provide a link if you don't mind.
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Old 08-19-2012, 06:18 PM   #104
beemerphile
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Provide a link if you don't mind.
http://nc700-forum.com

see you there?
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Old 08-19-2012, 07:05 PM   #105
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Quote:
So, if there is a current problem, the DTC can be read by lowering the side stand with the engine idling in neutral. This will not show a stored but non-current DTC. That can only be done by the first two options. So, next time the MIL light comes on, pull over safely to the side of the road, hit neutral, and drop the sidestand. Read the code count.

BTW, if you can come up with a code, I can look it up for you and give you the major problem designation.
Ha wish I had known that...when I drove to the dealer the light was on, and when I pulled up I put the kickstand down and it started flashing...made me think it was a loose connection :

Funny thing is that now it's not coming on anymore. But now I know what to do. So thanks.
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