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Old 08-19-2012, 08:46 PM   #106
richarddacat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemerphile View Post
http://nc700-forum.com

see you there?
Yep.

Where else can you get the everything you wanted to know about the NC story?
There's at least four threads started on here, maybe one day they'll be compiled or earn it's own category.
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Old 08-20-2012, 05:09 AM   #107
beemerphile
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richarddacat View Post
Yep.

Where else can you get the everything you wanted to know about the NC story?
There's at least four threads started on here, maybe one day they'll be compiled or earn it's own category.
I started an ADV group on the forum so we can ID ourselves. Join please if you go there.
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Old 08-20-2012, 09:13 AM   #108
ArmyMedic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nc700x View Post
i am a cyclist and runner so i dont have any fat on my ass :) that means longer rides hit me hard.After 2 hours of riding my ass feels like ronjerem pounded all night long :)
Bye the way my bike with 2 up riding and full lagguage gets 3.5 litre per 100 km and my average speed is 90 kms
Air Hawk seat cushion is your friend.
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Old 08-21-2012, 12:31 AM   #109
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So my first time riding two up ever this weekend, I noticed my head bobbing back and forth once I hit freeway speeds. What's up with that. Just the aero from the second rider I suppose?

It never happens when I'm solo. 3.5 hours hitting about 50% freeway and 50% mountain roads. 2 people, no problem. Handled great. Mileage great.

Def doesn't like being under 2k rpm with a load though. Haha.
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:20 AM   #110
670cc
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Progressive hiccup

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Originally Posted by Maytag Repairman View Post
Yeah, it is still wrong and I still can't correct it online. I sent them an email about the problem. I will probably call them again later today.
Ditto on the Progressive insurance VIN snafu. They kept switching a digit on my NC700X VIN and calling it a VTX 750 or something. I got a manager type to investigate. He says they get their VIN lists from Carfax or somewhere, and an updated list should be out at the end of August. Meanwhile they made me a manually generated insurance card with the correct VIN on it.

Greg
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:23 AM   #111
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Originally Posted by dduelin View Post


First was a ram ball for my Garmin then I fashioned a clip on the left handlebar for my iPod. The clip is bare aluminum and really isn't as shiny as the picture - the flash reflected brightly.



.
If you might be so kind as to save me some trouble, could you post the RAM part number for that ball mount you have there? Thanks

Greg
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:30 AM   #112
rowdymoose
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemerphile View Post
My first reading wasn't exactly correct last night. It looks to be as follows:

1) There is a tester called an "HDS Pocket Tester that can read the codes. It connects to a small DLC connector next to the positive battery terminal under the maintenance lid.

2) There is a jumper you can connect to the DLC connector that connects the brown and green wires (SCS Service Connector part number 070PZ-ZY30100). After connecting the jumper, you can read the first part of the code from the MIL light blink counts. The first part of the code gives the major area only. To get the second part of the code (the detail) you need the HDS pocket tester.

3) If the HDS is not available, the MIL will blink the current DTC (if one exists) when the ignition switch is on, the kill switch is set to run, and the sidestand is down. The MIL light will stay on if the engine speed is over 1,850 RPM or the sidestand is up. There are two type of blinks - long and short. For counting the MIL code, a long blink is (1.3 seconds) is equal to ten short (0.3 second) blinks. So a code of two longs and a short would be MIL code 21.

So, if there is a current problem, the DTC can be read by lowering the side stand with the engine idling in neutral. This will not show a stored but non-current DTC. That can only be done by the first two options. So, next time the MIL light comes on, pull over safely to the side of the road, hit neutral, and drop the sidestand. Read the code count.

BTW, if you can come up with a code, I can look it up for you and give you the major problem designation.
Finally got the light to come back on today during my morning commute. Pulled over, put in neutral, put kickstand down, and the CEL/MIL started flashing. It looked to do 1 long pulse followed by one short pulse, then off for a bit, then repeated one long pulse followed by one short pulse--guessing that constitutes an 11? Again--same symptoms...about 3-5 miles into my commute, and as soon as the key is turned off, the light clears itself.
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:42 AM   #113
670cc
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Originally Posted by dwa5591 View Post
What are you guys paying for insurance and were.I was quoted 595 per year from progressive for $ 500 deductible. sounds like a lot to me. All info will help.
Thanks
I pay under $300/yr total at Progressive for six motorcycles, including a GL1800 and the NC700X. You can reduce costs by eliminating collision. Simply don't crash your bike. Of course, if the bike is collateral on a loan, removing collision is probably not an option.
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Old 08-21-2012, 08:55 AM   #114
rowdymoose
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Originally Posted by beemerphile View Post
I started an ADV group on the forum so we can ID ourselves. Join please if you go there.
Do you mean you started a thread called ADV? Not sure I understand what you mean by a "group" on a forum. I just signed up, same user name.
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Old 08-21-2012, 09:56 AM   #115
670cc
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GIVI windscreen feedback

Quote:
Originally Posted by beemerphile View Post
OK gang, here's my mini-review...

(Main text omitted)

If your goal is quieter than stock, IMHO, save your money.
That is an awesome review of the Givi windscreen. My whole goal is quiet air, so that's just the feedback I needed.

I'm thinking of buying a piece of plastic, warming it in the oven and bending it, then making a mini summer screen that is smaller than stock. A screen that simply protects the instrument panel.

Clean air seems to come from having almost no windscreen, or having a tall enough one you can look through. Anything in between means noise. I noticed on a test ride of the ST1300 with electric windscreen, that the noise wasn't gone until the windscreen went above your eyes.

Thanks for the review.

Greg
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Old 08-21-2012, 10:35 AM   #116
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Originally Posted by 670cc View Post
If you might be so kind as to save me some trouble, could you post the RAM part number for that ball mount you have there? Thanks

Greg
I think it is a B-231. I bought it several years ago for another bike. It is a handlebar mount it just so happens the holes are just about the same distance apart as the riser bolt holes. I had to open the holes up a bit with a 5/16" drill bit and file flat the mount where the bolt heads contact the mount. I was going to use it clamped around the bar at first. That fits with no modification but I did not want to scratch the anodized bar.
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Old 08-21-2012, 11:10 AM   #117
Maytag Repairman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowdymoose View Post
Do you mean you started a thread called ADV? Not sure I understand what you mean by a "group" on a forum. I just signed up, same user name.
A "group" is just a collection of members that can do things that only other members of the group can see such as having their own threads and photos. I doubt much will happen in the group other than sharing what your identity is at each web site.

Go over there and log in. In the upper right row click on "My Profile". About half way or so down the left column is a link to "Join Groups" I think "ADV" is the only one available right now.
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Old 08-22-2012, 12:13 AM   #118
Cortez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 670cc View Post
That is an awesome review of the Givi windscreen. My whole goal is quiet air, so that's just the feedback I needed.

I'm thinking of buying a piece of plastic, warming it in the oven and bending it, then making a mini summer screen that is smaller than stock. A screen that simply protects the instrument panel.

Clean air seems to come from having almost no windscreen, or having a tall enough one you can look through.
Greg
+1

Any kind of taller screen then the stock will make more noise, no doubt
about that, since none are tall enough to make you look through it.

I've had a lot of issues with the windscreen on my kawasaki, tried a couple,
same with my scoots. Ended up with a huge one.

Long story short - I want a completely naked bike for some time now.
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Old 08-22-2012, 07:37 AM   #119
beemerphile
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowdymoose View Post
Finally got the light to come back on today during my morning commute. Pulled over, put in neutral, put kickstand down, and the CEL/MIL started flashing. It looked to do 1 long pulse followed by one short pulse, then off for a bit, then repeated one long pulse followed by one short pulse--guessing that constitutes an 11? Again--same symptoms...about 3-5 miles into my commute, and as soon as the key is turned off, the light clears itself.
the DTC 11 means:

VS sensor no signal. Loose or poor contact of the VS sensor connector.Open or short in the VS sensor wire. Faulty VS sensor. Engine should operate normally.

The VS Sensor is the Vehicle Speed Sensor. Check the wiring first. If the wiring is ok, check the VS sensor. If the VS Sensor is ok, the problem is the combination meter system (dash display panel). It looks like a magnetic reed switch that reads one of the transmission gears. There is a one bolt connection to the sensor. It is on the right hand side top of the transmission. It would take more disassembly than you probably want to do just to see it.
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Old 08-22-2012, 07:40 AM   #120
rowdymoose
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beemerphile View Post
the DTC 11 means:

VS sensor no signal. Loose or poor contact of the VS sensor connector.Open or short in the VS sensor wire. Faulty VS sensor. Engine should operate normally.

The VS Sensor is the Vehicle Speed Sensor. Check the wiring first. If the wiring is ok, check the VS sensor. If the VS Sensor is ok, the problem is the combination meter system (dash display panel). It looks like a magnetic reed switch that reads one of the transmission gears. There is a one bolt connection to the sensor. It is on the right hand side top of the transmission. It would take more disassembly than you probably want to do just to see it.
That would make perfect sense, because every time it comes on, my speedo goes blank. Looks like it's going into the shop.
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