ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 08-11-2012, 07:19 PM   #16
JonnyCash
turd polisher
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Midcoast, Maine
Oddometer: 1,420
Well, did you make progress?
__________________
I wouldn't bring her home to Mama, but Mama ain't home tonight.
JonnyCash is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2012, 08:31 PM   #17
mattsz OP
moto-gurdyist
 
mattsz's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Coastal Maine
Oddometer: 134
Still waiting on further input. I'd like some idea of whether that needle jet's shiny seat is enough of an indication of wear that I should replace it. Can't see or feel any ridges or scoring...

Also, I guess I'll have to replace that broken spring, but somebody modified it and re-used it, which is known to happen from time to time. I'd like to know if this is one of those acceptable times, or whether I should get a new one...

Plus, I have joined another thread about cleaning carbs with Pine-Sol, and am getting mixed results there - looking for clarification on whether I've killed my carbs (I doubt it) and what to do, if anything, about their now dulled appearance.

Oh well, it is Saturday night, after all!
mattsz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2012, 12:31 AM   #18
disston
ShadeTreeExpert
 
disston's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Location: Silver Spring, Md
Oddometer: 8,387
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsz View Post
Still waiting on further input. I'd like some idea of whether that needle jet's shiny seat is enough of an indication of wear that I should replace it. Can't see or feel any ridges or scoring...
I'm more prone to replace than not to replace. The shiny part is an indication of wear, not much by some standards but it is wear. So it ain't going to fix itself. I replace.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsz View Post
Also, I guess I'll have to replace that broken spring, but somebody modified it and re-used it, which is known to happen from time to time. I'd like to know if this is one of those acceptable times, or whether I should get a new one...
I would replace any spring that is broken, deformed or stretched. You have a spring that is all three. It is broken, deformed and stretched. Replace the spring.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsz View Post
Plus, I have joined another thread about cleaning carbs with Pine-Sol, and am getting mixed results there - looking for clarification on whether I've killed my carbs (I doubt it) and what to do, if anything, about their now dulled appearance.

Oh well, it is Saturday night, after all!
__________________
.
Never memorize something you can look up.
---Albert Einstein

Pay your debt, piratejohn.http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=949341
disston is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2012, 06:30 PM   #19
mattsz OP
moto-gurdyist
 
mattsz's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Coastal Maine
Oddometer: 134
Carbs are back together - I replaced the bad springs and the two float needles (I see that I've been confusing my part names throughout my posts). Still have to make some adjustments, but I started the bike up tonight and it ran ok with the choke on about halfway, quite roughly without any choke but I only ran it for a couple of minutes - not enough to really warm things up.

I'm pretty sure I don't really know how to properly warm this thing up using the choke. Before now, it never ran well with the choke, and I never needed it to start the bike, even on cool Maine summer mornings (55 deg F). My downloaded copy of the original manual isn't at all clear on the process. It mentions a full position and a warm-up position - what are they? Can anyone talk me through a proper cold start and warm-up procedure assuming everything is working properly?
mattsz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2012, 06:36 PM   #20
Hedge36
Chasing parts.
 
Hedge36's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Anacortes, WA
Oddometer: 44,181
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsz View Post
Carbs are back together - I replaced the bad springs and the two float needles (I see that I've been confusing my part names throughout my posts). Still have to make some adjustments, but I started the bike up tonight and it ran ok with the choke on about halfway, quite roughly without any choke but I only ran it for a couple of minutes - not enough to really warm things up.

I'm pretty sure I don't really know how to properly warm this thing up using the choke. Before now, it never ran well with the choke, and I never needed it to start the bike, even on cool Maine summer mornings (55 deg F). My downloaded copy of the original manual isn't at all clear on the process. It mentions a full position and a warm-up position - what are they? Can anyone talk me through a proper cold start and warm-up procedure assuming everything is working properly?
Choke it, fire it up, back the choke off a bit as it warms up
Hedge36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2012, 06:42 PM   #21
mattsz OP
moto-gurdyist
 
mattsz's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Coastal Maine
Oddometer: 134
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hedge36 View Post
Choke it, fire it up, back the choke off a bit as it warms up
yeah, I get it! But what's warm? Idling for a certain length of time (not too long, I guess!)? Riding for a certain length of time? Ride and keep backing off the choke and know it's warm when it runs ok without?

My problem is, it seems that since the carb cleaning, the norm I've gotten used to is out the window. And I have no other experience to draw from...
mattsz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2012, 06:59 PM   #22
Hedge36
Chasing parts.
 
Hedge36's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Anacortes, WA
Oddometer: 44,181
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsz View Post
yeah, I get it! But what's warm? Idling for a certain length of time (not too long, I guess!)? Riding for a certain length of time? Ride and keep backing off the choke and know it's warm when it runs ok without?

My problem is, it seems that since the carb cleaning, the norm I've gotten used to is out the window. And I have no other experience to draw from...
They're all distinct personalities. Basically, run it with the choke on all the way until the RPM is higher than you'd like or it's starting to bog a bit, then back it off a bit and see how it's doing as you ride it.

Experimentation, really. You'll figure it out after you futz with it for a while. There's definitely no single answer on this one.
Hedge36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2012, 07:49 PM   #23
crazydrummerdude
Wacky Bongo Boy
 
crazydrummerdude's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: St Louis, MO
Oddometer: 7,513
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsz View Post
Carb cleaning day!

No problems, except I cannot figure out how to remove the insulating bushing (and washer beneath) at the head inlet side. Is it some kind of plastic or fiber? Any ideas for removing without destroying it and reusing it?
Yeah, those are a bitch. On my R60/6, the previous owner started to take them apart. He got one buggered up and left the other. I was able to replace the boogered one, but man..

Also, I would have ran those float needles. I don't know if it's "ok" in the beemer world, but I'd even use fine sandpaper or scotchbrite to polish the mating surface smooth if they get a ridge.

But, you're beyond all that..
__________________

crazydrummerdude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2012, 02:16 AM   #24
mattsz OP
moto-gurdyist
 
mattsz's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Coastal Maine
Oddometer: 134
Thanks Hedge-

Like I mentioned earlier, I have no experience to go on... it's my first bike, and before now, I never needed any choke - in fact, any choke only caused it to bobble and bog, even at its coldest...

Just so I have an idea... what would you think should be a reasonable amount of time before it should run "unchoked"? 5 minutes? 20 minutes? In other words, your individual results may vary, but if it's not running smoothly unchoked after XX minutes, something is probably not right...
mattsz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2012, 03:43 AM   #25
JonnyCash
turd polisher
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Midcoast, Maine
Oddometer: 1,420
My carbs are totally different, but I don't think I've ever ridden mine with the chokes on. If it's colder out, the chokes stay on for 30-60 seconds, easing them off all the while to keep a smooth idle. In warm weather like we're having, they're not on for even ten seconds, but I do need them to get it started. If you need the choke to keep it running for a long time, I'd say your mixture screws need to be richened up. Or your cleaning efforts caused some kind of blockage in the pilot circuit. Did you ever, in your dismantling of the carbs, determine which position you needles are in? If they are wrong, the bike won't run worth beans. I know you don't have much of a base to which you can compare, and I don't know how to help you there, but I will say that you can't expect it to start and warm up like a modern car. BTW, I don't think we ever talked about this before, but when you replace head gaskets, it is good practice to re-torque head bolts and check valve clearances once the bike has heat cycled a few times.
__________________
I wouldn't bring her home to Mama, but Mama ain't home tonight.

JonnyCash screwed with this post 08-16-2012 at 03:50 AM
JonnyCash is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 03:13 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014