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Old 02-06-2013, 05:39 PM   #166
pvangel OP
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I got the rest of the cabinet fronts on tonight, maybe a bit much but hopefully they don't look like kitchen cabinets anymore.



I still have the base of the beds to do in diamond plate so when they are folded up you will see them, still not sure if the beds will be tubular steel or wood....we'll see.

Not sure what I am going to do for a counter top either, was thinking steel or a home depot stock top, maybe black formica? other thought was to use the flooring with a aluminum trim around the edge?

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Old 02-06-2013, 05:50 PM   #167
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For a counter, have you thought about a piece of 3/4 plywood with some steel or alum on top?

What will be the main duty of the counter? Cooking or rebuilding carbs?
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:15 PM   #168
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The countertop will have a sink in it so somewhat of a clean space, I have this for carb builds.



Might look for some carbon fiber Formica...
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Old 02-07-2013, 04:45 PM   #169
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My power converter got delivered today,



Because electrical work is not one of my strong points, I read the manual and then re- read it.



It's actually pretty simple and self explanatory,





Only thing I can't figure out is what type of 120 breakers it takes? Manual doesn't say anything, housing doesn't either? I googled it and nothing...I'll show an electrician friend and he'll know but you would think they would say???

Seems like we have a Noreaster heading our way so might have a snow day tomorrow, should get alot done!
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:39 AM   #170
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Snow day!

So i did a pre wire on the bench to make sure I knew what I was doing (I kinda do now)



Checked for DC output, good!



Checked AC output, good!



And a 12v light test and I am good to go, going to mount the base cabinet first but should have lights soon.

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Old 02-08-2013, 11:33 AM   #171
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Any pics of how you fixed the 1 1/2" plywood gap in the nose?
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Old 02-08-2013, 03:26 PM   #172
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Any pics of how you fixed the 1 1/2" plywood gap in the nose?
I just foamed everything in, there really was no way to fix it correctly but the foam should do the job. After insulating with the High-R board I foamed every crack I could see, seems pretty tight now.
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:23 PM   #173
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I was just thinking that you could run E-track down the floor. It would give you 100 places to tie bikes down and it's low profile, so it won't be in the way when not in use.
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Old 02-08-2013, 06:30 PM   #174
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I was just thinking that you could run E-track down the floor. It would give you 100 places to tie bikes down and it's low profile, so it won't be in the way when not in use.
I have etrack sections ready to go, went with 8 smaller pieces which I have a plan for...coming soon
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Old 02-08-2013, 06:31 PM   #175
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Finally got to straighten out my spider web of wires, yes that one box is crooked...I'll fix it I promise.



Marked the cabinet out for the converter and 120 plug,



Got the converter in place.



Cabinet is secured and converter is ready to go,



And.....LIGHTS!!!!



Kitchen under cabinet lights,



Reading lights,



Everything is on! till the fuse blew..



Have to get more fuses and the fan is blowing fuses right away... but got a lot done today for a snow day!
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:15 PM   #176
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Nicely done mate. Good progress.
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Old 02-09-2013, 01:52 PM   #177
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Wink Jacked up toy box

Now this is my kinda thread! Im always looking for stuff to do to my toyhauler. Its a 2000 SPCNS? 16' bumper pull toyhauler. Has a full kitchen, bathroom with shower, massive fridge/freezer, and an olympia gas mat heater that heats it up nicely (and uses very little propane) I paid $2800 for it and this is the night I took it home!




Heres my cree led lights that I mounted to my subwoofer box on the roof (Theres two 12's up there) they point in when i need to work on my bikes at night, then they swivel down and point out the back of the rv to help with loading and unload bikes at night


Ive since been fixing and modifying everything on this rv. It weighs 4100lbs empty and is very stout. I put in a 7k dexter straight axle and did the axle flip for ground clearance, 24" from bumper to ground to be exact. I was able to squeeze in my 1968 MG Midget and tow it from olympia, wa to richmond, va without any real issues (other than the tire bubbling where it met the rim by the time we made it to michigan). Theres roughly 20 tie down points in the toy box. I have 3 10k tie down points for the car (I use the winch on the other corner)

I Also bolted a kennedy tool box to the floor to hold all my necessary tools for when bad things happen at moto's. In the bottom theres a pancake air compressor for airing up, I run that off either my generator or my 700 watt power inverter. On the opposite wall theres a paper towel rack that holds blue shop towels and any spray cans or oil that i may need.



To make loading my car (and when my three wheeler would decide not to start in the rain) in the toy box easier I installed a warn 8k winch under the stove. I took the winch channel and cut it down. butted it up against the fake wood so the roller flair lead would be the only thing that you would see. and welded up plate to the frame rail and gusseted them to the frame. It was one of the best things I put in my trailer. In a pinch I might be able to use it if I get stuck while towing





Since my sweet half ton was having trouble dragging this up hills when there was 5 bikes in the back I made the switch to a 05 dodge 3500 with the h.o. cummins TD. The dodge doesnt even know the trailer is back there when towing and still gets good fuel economy.


Ive reciently redone the floors with a "wood" laminate. my dirtbike fell over on a 5 hour haul and spilled 2 gallons of gas, which lifted a bunch of the tiles.
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MrSandman818 screwed with this post 02-09-2013 at 01:57 PM
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Old 02-09-2013, 02:02 PM   #178
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In Bed toy hauler

Heres my second camping option. I got it at an auction at work for $25...yes $25. Its a 2009 leanord leer insulated camping shell thats over 5 feet tall. My dirt bike makes it through the back door and my ktm 950 adventure makes it when i remove the mirrors and windscreen. It has a sliding window on the right, vent on the roof, 110v wireing ran throughout with a dimmable lamp. i wired in 20 feet of 20 amp power cord. It has 2 cabinates up front and stronge aluminum frame.

It also has a air shield on the front since it is soo tall. Between the air shield and the total height of the shell it actually breaks the air up nicely for my toyhauler.


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Old 02-09-2013, 02:07 PM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pvangel View Post
I just foamed everything in, there really was no way to fix it correctly but the foam should do the job. After insulating with the High-R board I foamed every crack I could see, seems pretty tight now.

How about a pic from the outside/underside?
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Old 02-09-2013, 02:13 PM   #180
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How bout a pic showing an overview of the living area?



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