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Old 08-23-2012, 03:23 PM   #31
Twin-shocker
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Bronze welds on Rickman made frames are neater than those, but I would guess the joint fit up on the real things would have been far better, so the welds could be much less obtrusive. Another wheel option for your bike would be from KTM twinshock MX bikes, and I seem to remember very early mono-shock bikes also had drum brake wheels?
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:22 PM   #32
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I don't remember them having ripples, bronze welding usually just goes on smooth. I have a Rickman/Zundapp frame at home, I'll have a look at the joints tonight to see if they are smooth. The Cheney frame must've been chrome moly, because it was beautifully TIG welded - I had both bikes at the same time, and the difference was striking.
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:29 PM   #33
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Cheney and Rickman frames are both brazed, neither ever used the TIG process for frame building. The ripple effect on brazed frame comes from dipping the rod, and while it would be possible to make this less noticeable it would be difficult to do.
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Old 09-26-2012, 04:46 AM   #34
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:04 PM   #35
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I remember a trip to Greenrose's Sports Center in Jeffersonville IN.during the late '60s and there was a new Rickman Triumph on the floor. I didn't know much about Rickmans then but I surely was impressed by the beautiful welds on the frame. I was just learning to weld then (still am) and noticed them right off !
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Old 09-29-2012, 02:31 AM   #36
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Your Honda MT250 forks may just be identical to the forks fitted to my 1969 Triumph Bonneville desert sled. Nice forks and will work both with CR wheels (or with a CB wheel if you want a big full width front brake).

I had some nice old Ossa 35mm alloy triple clamps already, so a local machinist modified them to fit my Triumph's frame neck. I then slipped in a spare set of 1973 Honda XL250 forks I had. A friend provided a 19" front wheel off a 1969 Honda CB450. With a chrome steel rim and 40 spokes it matched nicely my 650's rear wheel. A brake stay bolted right on. A longer axle and spacers were made up, because the Ossa trees are wider than the Honda ones. (You may not have this issue). That was another hundred bucks. Still, the whole front end cost me less than a set of used Ceriani triple clamps goes for on ebay. I did have to swap the XL250 springs for some stiffer ones, luckily I had those already too.

Your project is cool, and worth getting right. You really want a B50 "MX" rear hub, as the 650 BSA/Triumph rear hubs of that period weren't light. Or, any 70's-80's era open-class MX hub with the right chainwheel offset and axle diameter should be adaptable by a good machine shop that understands what you are building. You might consider treating yourself to a new matched set of Excel flanged alloy rims tho, built to fit whatever brake hubs you settle on.

Good luck!
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Old 10-25-2012, 05:52 AM   #37
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Look for a set of Betor or Ceriani T100 HD road forks for that period look. Speed and Sport can help you with some of the Rickman bits http://www.speedandsport.com/ including hubs/spokes/cables/etc. or go straight to Rickman themselves http://www.rickman-motorcycles.com/. Although not a Rickman here's my recent project.

http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...ySachs/004.jpg
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:03 PM   #38
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Thumb Nice link!

Quote:
Originally Posted by dfisher View Post
Look for a set of Betor or Ceriani T100 HD road forks for that period look. Speed and Sport can help you with some of the Rickman bits http://www.speedandsport.com/ including hubs/spokes/cables/etc. or go straight to Rickman themselves http://www.rickman-motorcycles.com/. Although not a Rickman here's my recent project.

http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...ySachs/004.jpg
Nice bike!
Cheney I believe?

I was unfamiliar with Speed and Sport, thanks for the link.
I bought the frame kit from Rickman and just received my latest parts order from them this week in fact.
(Tank mount rubbers, air filters, steering stops, and a custom fork stem bolt for the triple clamps I am using)

Sadly, after spending over $400 on fork parts to fit, I saw a set of 35mm Rickman Betor forks, with triple clamps, on eBay for $150. Only one bidder so he got them for $150. That was this week! I just couldn't bring myself to buy another set of forks even if they are the correct ones. Well, most used Cerriani but Betor was a popular choice.

I am trying to keep this an affordable budget build even though I shoot myself in the foot often.
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:45 PM   #39
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...looks like evreything Ceriani you neeed is right here: Ceriani
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:48 PM   #40
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I'd say those brazed welds look about par for the course. I think they are pretty. You get a 'pool' going with the heat and purposefully make that bead, the skill is keeping the bead even and the welder did a good job. I'd say they are part of the historical correctness.

Do yourself a solid and get the best correct forks you can and new rims. Borrani.

As Rolls Royce used to say...."the quality will linger on long after the cost is forgotten"

I was born in the UK in 1950. These bikes are my memories, my dreams as a teenager and beyond..even now.

Just add a couple of thousand to your budget, if it takes longer it takes longer...you are only going to do this once...do it right.

Put a shout out for wanted bits in the flea market here...you'd be surprised at what may show up, good folks and honest enthusiast's abound.

Good for you and the Mrs for making this dream come true.
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:11 AM   #41
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Cool2 Slow but steady progress

The custom made steering stem arrived and has been installed.

I am using the front end from a '76 Honda MR250 since it looks period correct to me and was available.
Unfortunately, the triple clamps use a welded in stem bolt so I bought a set of Honda XR500 clamps and had to have a new stem bolt made that would fit the Rickman bearings. That was an unexpected expense. I may have to buy a small hobby lathe/mill for my projects. Or find a better machine shop!










I also mounted the front tire using the Zip-Tie method. This was the first time I have used Zippys to mount a tire and I do agree with those who have tried it, that it is much easier this way than one bead at a time and trying to keep the tube in place. I used a small screwdriver to release the locking tab on the ties so I can reuse them again and again.





I plan to mount the rear tire this weekend and then put the forks in, wheels on, and have a roller!
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Old 11-11-2012, 09:21 PM   #42
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Eh? Roller! Sort of...

The plan was to slip in the '77 Husky rear wheel and the '76 Honda forks and wheel and have a roller.

First up, the rear wheel with new tire.
Hmmmm, I see that I should NOT have bought a 130 width tire...
They didn't have tires that wide in '65 so the frame is not designed for it.
The tire fits, barely if perfectly centered.
Except that I need to move the hub over so the chain & sprocket will clear the shocks.
So, new spokes at the least as the ones in it are bent and several are loose.
The first loose spoke I tried to tension snapped at the nipple.
I will need to get spacers made and bushings for the swingarm/axle difference.
Then there is the brake fit problem too. hmmm...
I will keep searching for a BSA B50 wheel.

Next, slip the forks into the clamps and fit the fender.
hmmmmm, I guess they didn't have side knobs on front tires in '76 either.
The tire just barely clears the forks seal covers.
That means the fender has to be cut for clearance.
And the tabs on the fork legs have to be cut off.

A jig saw and a sanding belt cut in half became my mill and lathe to cut and clean the legs.
And an angle grinder to shave the cut nubs down.

Then a drill and Dremel tool to cut the clearance holes in the fender.
The modified parts were ready and back upstairs to the living room for installation.

Finally......



It's a ROLLER!!!








Yes, I will be changing out those handlebars for more correct ones. I just happened to have these takeoffs from another bike.
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JagLite screwed with this post 11-12-2012 at 06:53 PM Reason: Can't spell...
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:17 AM   #43
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This is shaping up to be an amazing-looking bike. Great work so far.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:24 AM   #44
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Looking good! I'm following this, it's right up my alley. Just a lovely worthwhile build. Good on you and the Mrs, living room build
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:50 PM   #45
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Thumb Thanks to dfisher!

Quote:
Originally Posted by dfisher View Post
Look for a set of Betor or Ceriani T100 HD road forks for that period look. Speed and Sport can help you with some of the Rickman bits http://www.speedandsport.com/ including hubs/spokes/cables/etc. or go straight to Rickman themselves http://www.rickman-motorcycles.com/. Although not a Rickman here's my recent project.

http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/a...ySachs/004.jpg
I want to thank you again for the Speedandsport link.
I have already placed an order that is on its way and today I sent Matt an email with my progress report and problems asking for his suggestions.

Matt called me right away and is very helpful indeed!
He agrees that anything CAN be made to work, with enough money, but not everything should be done that way.
He is going to set me up with a proper rear wheel and perhaps a better front end too.

I told him I am taking a lesson from wasting too much money on the wrong stuff.
I can't afford more "education" by trying to save money...

I bought a set of Betor triple clamps on eBay yesterday for $30.
Where were they all the time I was searching for correct 35mm clamps????
Argh....
But I bought them just in case the Honda clamps don't prove to be ideal.
Which they aren't since they have the offset for a leading axle fork...

Anyway, Matt at Speed and Sport is great and I will most likely be sending him a lot of money as I can afford to.

Your bike is a beauty. I believe it is a Cheney? I seem to remember that the Rickman was quite common and the Cheney was a step up from there. Very limited numbers? Lighter weight? I have seen one in person but that was in the mid '70's. Do you race vintage?
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