|04-18-2013, 07:40 PM||#1|
Joined: Mar 2013
Another Yamaha Super Tenere Cruise Control
Inspired by SuperCruise and using his instructions, I did my own installation but with some differences....
See his thread here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=622697&highlight=super+tenere+cruise
BTW, I started writing this before but did something and it disappeared. So here goes again......
1. position of main unit. I found a section of raised casting in the void above the crank case that had a 6mm threaded hole in it. Was able to use the supplied black bracket, bend it and bolt to that hole. Now unit is secure and above the surface of the crank case, without getting too hot.
2. Throttle Linkage. I fitted the cruise control cable loop to the throttle pull end instead of the return direction. Some comments:
- I filed a small groove around the throttle anchor so that the loop could sit in the groove while I fitted it back into the throttle body. A bit fiddly but looks very neat once done.
- to stop the cruise control falling out of the body when not under tension, I twisted it once around the throttle cable, and then put a little crimp around both cables in the space between the throttle body and the cable housing so that it didn't impact at either end of throttle travel.
- I used the supplied silver bracket to mount the flag nut to hold the cruise control cable. Put a 90 degree twist in the end so that the flag nut was aligned to the destination, and so I could bend the end of the bracket around the front of the frame and bolt it on using an existing hole. I'm talking about the part of the frame that you see when looking back and up from the front wheel.
- the brown and yellow wires are both in the small loom coming from the foot brake pedal - just follow it from the pedal and cut into the loom at an accessible point.
- rather than have lots of spare wires tucked in everywhere, I trimmed all the slack and rejoined where necessary, soldering and covering with heat shrink. a bit of mucking around, but a nicer result.
4. Control Pad
- I mounted the control pad on a small bracket I made myself from aluminium sheet, and secured it to the mirror mount. Easy to reach with thumb without leaving hand grip - sits just above other switch gear. Appropriate neutral cure silicon to seal etc.
5. Dip switches
- on the initial test ride, it was very slow to engage, so I changed switch 9 to ON to change the engine setup timer to 4 cylinder High. Worked much better.
- cable retracts much more quickly and gives almost instant engagement without surge.
- Works fine most of the time, but can 'porpoise' sometimes, especially at lower speeds. I can moderate or eliminate the surging by holding the throttle for a few seconds, but it can be a bit of a pain. At 90km/h or above, it works fine, but not below that - not that I use it much down there. It may be a cable slack issue, although I did measure it and extend to get the required 41mm slack. Ideas welcome here, and if the wisdom is that more slack would benefit, I can dismantle and adjust.
I understand that you can't post photos directly here, and have to link to a smugmug or other account. I haven't done it before, so help welcomed, and when I work out how to do it, I'll put some up.....
|04-18-2013, 11:03 PM||#2|
Joined: May 2006
Location: Illinois- land of straight, flat, boring roads.
Thanks for the info on your cruise installation. I look forward to some pics.
I use photobucket.com and when you upload pics to there and then click on one of them them you will see on the right side of the page where it says "Image Links". I click on the one that says Direct Link and it then says "copied" which puts that URL into memory. Then when posting to this forum you will see an icon above the text that looks like a yellow square with what looks like mountains. If you put the mouse on it, it will say Insert Image. Click on that and you will see a blank to paste the URL that just copied from photobucket.
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