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Old 02-22-2014, 05:05 AM   #1
dentvet OP
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Location: hunt country virginia
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The good, the bad and the ugly

aaa iiii aaa iiii aaaah,

waa waa waahhhh


THE GOOD:

330 pounds!! (my dirt ninja 650 was 400#)

ex500 motor seems to run well

not obnoxiously loud

the sprockets line up well

the cradle is welded in solidly

the tach works

somebody else did the hard work



THE BAD:

somebody else did the hard work

drum brake 17 inch rear

no room for an airbox

KLR decal

very ugly, see below



THE UGLY:

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Old 02-22-2014, 05:47 AM   #2
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:26 AM   #3
Leo.G
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Don't know about the others, but I like it...

Was the frame of a KLX or of a KDX?
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Old 02-22-2014, 09:32 AM   #4
k-moe
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Looks beautiful to me, and the drum brake is a positive in my view ( ).
Pretty things are for looking at. That thing is for riding
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Old 02-23-2014, 06:38 AM   #5
lobolator
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Was it a KLR250?

If it were mine, I'd build some sort of air box, so I could ride it anywhere without worry. And build a better skid plate mounted to the down tubes to protect the pipes (and the oil filter) , my off road excursions on my EX left me with a crunched cross over pipe.
That EX500 motor will eat highway miles.
I bet it is buttery smooth off road.
I keep wondering about putting my 500 motor into something...
Ride the crap out of your GBU500 and have fun doing it!
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Old 02-23-2014, 07:00 AM   #6
dentvet OP
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It turns out to be an 85 KL600 chassis. I'm not sure what year the ex500 motor is but maybe they are all the same. Is there a way to tell by the motor ID number?

Old KX500 forks out front, the shock has a reservoir on it. If I change to a KTM shock that has the reservoir attached at an angle, or a shock without a reservoir, I'd have more space for an airbox.

The motor is really smooth but lacks much response right off idle. It really comes "on the pipe" at about 2500 rpm but that 1500-2500 rpm range is most important to me. It doesnt bog or miss, it's just soft. braaaaAAAAAAAAP, if you know what i mean

Its geared at 16/44 so that might be part of the snappiness problem, too

I'll start cleaning her up and decide where to go with it.
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Old 02-23-2014, 08:06 AM   #7
orangebear
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359 pounds is not a bad price to get the bike for.
[/QUOTE]
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Old 02-23-2014, 08:18 AM   #8
joexr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orangebear View Post
359 pounds is not a bad price to get the bike for.
[/QUOTE]

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Old 02-27-2014, 04:14 PM   #9
dentvet OP
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I'm in the process of tearing it apart to tidy it up.

EX500 question: is it possible to use one coil with twin sparkplug wires instead of the two coils with single wires? This would save some realestate under the tank.....
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Old 02-28-2014, 04:59 AM   #10
lobolator
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I think you need both coils or need a PhD in electronics

FYI - The EX had 2 motors, one had one magnet and two pick ups, the other had 2 magnets and one pick up on the flywheel. Other than that, I'm pretty sure they are the same.
IIRC the year is stamped into the engine number.
My EX was much snappier with a -1T CS, although I don't remember how many teeth that was...
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Old 03-02-2014, 10:36 AM   #11
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Here's some reading for you. I'll let you decide if it's worth doing or not.

http://ltd454.proboards.com/thread/3...nition-upgrade
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:32 PM   #12
dentvet OP
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I stuck with the separate coils.

Current issue is lack of airbox. there was a tiny one on there but was very crude, welded in place

I cut it out and fitted some shorter crab joints to give me a bit more room, still not enough, though. The CV carbs wont run without a box though. Here's what I have to work with



Here you can see where the stock carb boot used to come through, now blocked by the shock reservoir



My options are

1. Find a stock klr600 airbox and shock without reservoir. Hook up carbs into airbox

2. Switch carbs to non CV type and run pod filters. Throttle cable or linkage issues arise

3. Switch to Siamese intake and run a single carb
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=28708.0

4. Figure how to get the CV carbs to run with pods

5. Roll off cliff
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Old 03-10-2014, 07:43 PM   #13
16VGTIDave
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#4 is viable! Use Uni filters as they have smooth air flow and no lip on the rubber mounting flange to mess with the air flow into the carb ports. Additionally, you could get some PVC pipe the correct ID (or slightly smaller and turn it on a lathe to the correct ID) and make short stacks for the filters to mount on. Using stacks would also allow you to plumb in your crankcase vent so you can avoid smelling like a refinery at every traffic light.

I have done stacks with crankcase vents and Uni filters for my bike and a couple others with CV carbs and have had good results. Much better than having the filters on the carbs, but not as "fashionable" with the cafe crowd. I try to match the length of the stacks to the length of the stock air intake boots as best as possible for best results.
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Old 03-22-2014, 04:58 AM   #14
dentvet OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16VGTIDave View Post
#4 is viable! Use Uni filters as they have smooth air flow and no lip on the rubber mounting flange to mess with the air flow into the carb ports. Additionally, you could get some PVC pipe the correct ID (or slightly smaller and turn it on a lathe to the correct ID) and make short stacks for the filters to mount on. Using stacks would also allow you to plumb in your crankcase vent so you can avoid smelling like a refinery at every traffic light.

I have done stacks with crankcase vents and Uni filters for my bike and a couple others with CV carbs and have had good results. Much better than having the filters on the carbs, but not as "fashionable" with the cafe crowd. I try to match the length of the stacks to the length of the stock air intake boots as best as possible for best results.

Thank you! I bought some uni filters and stuffed them in there. I'll probably try to fashion some elbows so the filters aren't wadded up against the frame. Initial trials are positive, the motor starts pulling around 3000 rpm now but signs off pretty early. I'm going to play with the jetting now. I have stock jetting wich i think might be too lean.

Sanjoh sent me a headlight thru his pay it forward thread, looks way better, less ugly.




I'm playing with the shock preload now. The rear seems pretty jarring on washboards etc. It is a 1990 KX500 shock with a blue spring painted green, so I'm not sure what spring it actually is. The swingarm linkage looks unmolested so its probably standard KLR fare. Total travel should be less than 300mm but I don't know the actual spec for the klr600.

Initial race sag was 125mm. When I bump the preload rings down to achieve 95mm race sag, I have 40mm static sag. I've read that this indicates a spring too firm. Any suggestions for a frankenspring?

I'll ride it around to see if the extra preload has smoothed things out
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Old 03-23-2014, 08:39 PM   #15
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