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Old 08-24-2012, 06:59 PM   #1
AdvGa OP
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Voltage Regulator_Furukawa/Mosfet_Dual Connector Install

Here is my FH020AA Mosfet Voltage Regulator Install with the Furukawa waterproof Connectors... but done with the OEM Connectors in Place.

This way if the Regulator ever goes out (they don't make appointments), I can use this Universal Mosfet Regulator or use the OEM type.

My Original Regulater w/18k miles is Fine and will keep as a spare.

Bought this kit from here:

http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%...rade%20kit.htm




I did buy the following from NAPA:
1- #785604 - 12 GA Wire/Yellow - for Stator - 3 @ 13"
2-#785602 - 12 GA Wire/Red - for R/W wires to Starter Relay Connector - 2 @ 13"
3- #785505 - 14 GA Wire/Green - Ground - 2 @ 11"
4- #784474 - 10-12 GA Male Spade Connectors - for Stator/Relay Connections - 5 and cut off their plastic shoulders
5- #784437 - 18-20 GA Ring Terminal - For Ground

Tools - Soldering Iron, Cut/Crimp Tool, Dialectric Grease

Did not use included 30 AMP Breaker (Lower Left Corner) or 10 GA Red/Black Wire (36") since I did not wire directly to Battery Terminals.


OEM Voltage Regulator and Connectors.


New Shindengen Voltage Regulator All Wired up and Ready to Install.



Used the Spaded End of Regulator Wires to OEM Stator Connector & Wire Tied to keep in place with DiElectric Grease ib both sides of Terminal to waterproof.


Used the Spaded End of Regulator Wires to OEM Red/White Starter Relay Connector & with DiElectric Grease ib both sides of Terminal to waterproof.


Ring Terminal in place for the Ground Wire from Voltage Regulator.


Only problem was with the OEM Skidplate, it's ridge at the Bottom hit against the Yellow Stator wires from the bottom of the Regulator. So had to not use the current screw holes and wired it in place to get the higher clearance to close the skidplate.

It started up with Voltages at Idle at 14.3 - 14.4 Volts and it did NOT get Hot like the OEM regulator would.

Hope this helps those who may be interested in this process and wanted to do this since there was not any How To pictorials on this process to follow.

AdvGa screwed with this post 09-14-2012 at 08:12 AM Reason: Corrected Item Name
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:05 PM   #2
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thanks!

Thanks for posting this! Great reference material for future projects!
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:08 PM   #3
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Why did you ditch the breaker? I know the connectors get corroded but what are the reasons to do this mod? Thanks for posting it!
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:30 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzybraza View Post
Thanks for posting this! Great reference material for future projects!
You are welcome... it was a fun project to do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stumpalump View Post
Why did you ditch the breaker? I know the connectors get corroded but what are the reasons to do this mod? Thanks for posting it!
I did not use the one in the Kit.... this method uses the OEM Breaker/Fuse at the Sterter Relay.

One method was to use the Supplied Breaker with the 10 GA wire straight to the Battery... this way I could use Either the OEM or the Mosfet type without any additional difficulty or mods.
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Old 08-24-2012, 08:43 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdvGa View Post
...
2-#785602 - 12 GA Wire/Red - for R/W wires to Starter Relay Connector - 2 @ 13"



....
The other change I would do is to Change this Wire's length to
about 16" for each wire so I could Loop it over the top for additional security like it was done on the Stator Wires. Then tie it down with some ZipTies.

2-#785602 - 12 GA Wire/Red - for R/W wires to Starter Relay Connector - 2 @ 16"
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Old 08-24-2012, 10:20 PM   #6
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nice How-To. Guess i'll be doing this shortly...

thanks again
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Old 08-26-2012, 09:29 AM   #7
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...Only problem was with the OEM Skidplate, it's ridge at the Bottom hit against the Yellow Stator wires from the bottom of the Regulator. ..
To help ease the clearance between the VR & the OEM Skidplate, did the following:

1-Used the only the Left Voltage Regulator mounting Bolt and rotated VR about 10 degrees Counter Clockwise as seen below.



2- Shaved some Plastic Material & the Aluminum Lip off the OEM Skidplate to assist with the clearance.

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Old 08-26-2012, 10:37 AM   #8
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How is this one working ?

I am considering upgrading mine because it seems like my wattage output is getting weak
I cant run two Osram HIDs , after firing one 35 watt HID , the second does not have enough initial voltage to fire anymore
then the badboy horn does not have enough watts to honk either

seems like my electrical output is weak
wattage output is almost impossible to measure except by usage

a voltage increase might help
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Old 08-26-2012, 12:07 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Dustodust View Post
How is this one working ?

...
It works well and runs cooler. The Non-Mosfet types run at about 200-300 degrees F. This one is barely warm and according to my Escort Solo S2 output... it stays a constant 14.3 - 14.4 V, however my OEM one was about 14.2 V.

Found this link info that may help:
http://www.rc51forums.com/forums/sho...2&postcount=27
"The Shindengen upgrade is certainly worth doing if you have uprated lights or other gagdets on the bike that draw power. The upgrade works and it is so simple to do. It looks a lot more complicated than it really is to somebody who is not so confident with a spanner and screwdriver. Some basic soldering and wire stripping and crimping and its done.

...After running the bike for 5 minutes or so the Rectifier/Regulator still felt cool!! "

Hope this helps...

AdvGa screwed with this post 08-26-2012 at 12:37 PM
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Old 08-26-2012, 01:58 PM   #10
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I wonder if this unit should be carried along on an extended trip like fuel/water pump kits?
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:47 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by jimmex View Post
I wonder if this unit should be carried along on an extended trip like fuel/water pump kits?
That is why I did this... Voltage Regulators don't make appointments when they decide to go out.

This way of installing the Mosfet/Shindegren type Voltage Regulator (more universal type) and using the OEM Wiring Connections, one can go either way. The Shindegren type Voltage Regulators are more Easily Found and used on many other type motorcycles, including my other cycle.

But you if you decide to go with the Mosfet Type connections, you would have to Make an Electrical Harness up to go with your Mosfit Type Voltage Regular if you decide to carry one as a spare.
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Old 08-26-2012, 08:19 PM   #12
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I'm all for this solution, just as an FYI I believe Ricks Motorsports sells this as a complete product. Not sure how the cost measures up.

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=10-013H&pmc=MDRLVE05NTBBZHZlbnR1cmU=
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Old 08-26-2012, 08:30 PM   #13
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So Ricks is plug and play??? Much easier to carry as a spare if your on a longer trip...
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Old 08-27-2012, 08:03 PM   #14
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So Ricks is plug and play??? ...
Yes, but I wanted to put together an install with a Shindengen (an OEM Manufacturer w/many cycle types) Mosfet Regulator w/ Furukawa Waterproof Connectors.

Cycle models that use them are Yamaha FJR, 07+ Yamaha R1 among others.

Now that I have the Furukawa Waterproof Connectors with this installation, I can use either the OEM type of Voltage Regulator or the more widely available Shindengen FH012 which is now the upgraded FH020.

Below is the reasoning for using the Mosfet type of Voltage Regulator taken from this link below:

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html

"- as aforementioned this is a good preventive upgrade measure with a better component, not necessarily limited to replacement on failure. Either way, process is the same.

Best widely available R/R on the market today is the
Shindengen FH012AA used on the late (06+) Yamaha FJR, 07+ Yamaha R1 among others.
What makes it better is that is a MOSFET controlled device rather than the crude SCR shunt type that is on most bikes until recently and also is a 50A rated device.
MUCH better voltage regulation and runs cooler too due to more efficient devices and control circuitry.

The SCR shunt type consumes more energy in the Regulator itself than the bike is using and dumps a ton of current into the heatsink (feel yours & just see how hot those things run!!!! - don't touch it - you'll burn yourself - seriously!) The problem is exacerbated because their efficiency goes even lower when they get HOT so it's a vicious circle. Heat is the number 1 killer of these devices.
Incidentally its a misconception that shunt type work harder with increased load i.e. higher-wattage lights, heated vests etc - actually, the higher the load on the output, the less work the shunt regulator does in dumping that excess energy and will actually run cooler!!

The FET has extremely low resistance in conducting state and this results in a lower dissipated power from the device while conducting load current, as opposed to the SCR which shunts the maximum current across a significant volt drop, resulting in a higher dissipated power - and resulting temperature, much more so than the FET device. "
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:55 PM   #15
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awe man the 950 has a 3 phase shunt regulator ? !!!

Dude thats LAME
no wonder these systems are kinda weak
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