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Old 06-23-2013, 02:21 PM   #3436
oldhippie1
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$439.39 for a valve adjustment.

OK, here's what you do. Take $15 out of each paycheck for a year and you have $780 in a year. That will pay for a valve adjustment (check) and a new set of tires. How many of you will ride 8000 in a year? Not many. If you cannot displine yourself to do that then you have NO BUSINESS buying any new bike.
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Old 06-23-2013, 03:12 PM   #3437
desmoface
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Diggin' the lower bars:



Steve
05 st3

desmoface screwed with this post 06-23-2013 at 03:44 PM
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Old 06-23-2013, 06:58 PM   #3438
dirtdreamer50
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Man I loved Freddie. he was a mad man on the track...Cool find on the video. tomp dd50
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:44 PM   #3439
RedRocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desmoface View Post
Diggin' the lower bars:


Steve
05 st3


They make it look easier to control.
Or maybe that was just Freddie.
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:37 PM   #3440
Guth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldRoadToad View Post
I thought I saw a picture of a new CB1100 in here somewhere with guards on it so I will try and find it.
You'll find info and images over on the CB1100 Forum.
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:04 AM   #3441
Eddy Alvarez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldhippie1 View Post
How many of you will ride 8000 in a year? Not many. If you cannot displine yourself to do that then you have NO BUSINESS buying any new bike.
$600+ for a service on this bike is total BS! (Yes, I am still pissed that is doesn't have hydraulic valves like the 90's CB750 Nighthawk, LOL!) I save as much money as possible by doing my own basic servicing. For the harder stuff of things that require fancier tools, I go to my local mechanic (ADV:Guy Young) who I trust and he charges less than half of what the dealer charges.
As far as miles go, I put 12,000 miles on my BMW GS last year and about 1,000 HARD miles on my DRZ400.

Expensive servicing is the reason I unloaded my Ducati Monster. Even though my GS was expensive, I can do 85% of all required maintenance at home in my garage. Guy takes care of the of the 15%.
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:16 AM   #3442
Starkmojo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddy Alvarez View Post
$600+ for a service on this bike is total BS! (Yes, I am still pissed that is doesn't have hydraulic valves like the 90's CB750 Nighthawk, LOL!) I save as much money as possible by doing my own basic servicing. For the harder stuff of things that require fancier tools, I go to my local mechanic (ADV:Guy Young) who I trust and he charges less than half of what the dealer charges.
As far as miles go, I put 12,000 miles on my BMW GS last year and about 1,000 HARD miles on my DRZ400.

Expensive servicing is the reason I unloaded my Ducati Monster. Even though my GS was expensive, I can do 85% of all required maintenance at home in my garage. Guy takes care of the of the 15%.
I have never gone to a dealer for service... But the again I have never bought a bike from one either.
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:36 AM   #3443
kraven
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldhippie1 View Post
OK, here's what you do. Take $15 out of each paycheck for a year and you have $780 in a year. That will pay for a valve adjustment (check) and a new set of tires. How many of you will ride 8000 in a year? Not many. If you cannot displine yourself to do that then you have NO BUSINESS buying any new bike.
Darn good advice, sir.
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:56 AM   #3444
Dave in Wi
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I may have missed this, if so my bad. Do the cams need to come out to swap shims? I assume it doesn't have VVT so that shouldn't add a complication.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:05 AM   #3445
RedRocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave in Wi View Post
I may have missed this, if so my bad. Do the cams need to come out to swap shims? I assume it doesn't have VVT so that shouldn't add a complication.
No vtec on the CB. I had a vtec VFR and a valve check was $400.
I had it done once at 36,000, and based on the other ones he had opened up he felt 30k+ was really fine for an interval. Knowing honda quality I wouldn't worry myself about it.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:25 AM   #3446
markjenn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave in Wi View Post
I may have missed this, if so my bad. Do the cams need to come out to swap shims?
Discussion about this earlier in the thread. I think the conclusion was that it was standard shim-under-bucket (cam removal required to swap shims) at 8K-mile check intervals.

- Mark
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:47 AM   #3447
NJ-Brett
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I thought many Honda's (and other Japannese bikes) almost never need an actual adjustment of the valves when its done with shims.

I read one story that some suzuki was never even checked for 40,000 miles and ran fine.

Seems like it would not be too hard to check them.
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:27 AM   #3448
markjenn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ-Brett View Post
I thought many Honda's (and other Japannese bikes) almost never need an actual adjustment of the valves when its done with shims.

I read one story that some suzuki was never even checked for 40,000 miles and ran fine.
No one really has any hard data on how many bikes need adjustment and how many don't. And data from any single bike is too anecdotal to draw any conclusions.

My data (I'd guess I've checked 50 or so bikes over the years) is that about 1/3 of the shim-adjusted bikes I've checked have required some adjustment. IMO, the idea that valves "almost never need adjustment" is wishful thinking, but by the same token, the risk of failure or accelerated wear if you want to let it slide is probably not great.

Another confounding factor is that dealer mechanics will often look the other way if one is "close enough", especially if they don't charge more if adjustment is required. (There is another thread on this on this forum.)

Lacking better hard data, I think following the mfg's recommendation is the best course, especially early in a bike's life before wear trends are established. But I certainly don't lose any sleep if, for whatever reason, I let it go longer now and then.

- Mark
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:59 AM   #3449
Eddy Alvarez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldhippie1 View Post
Take $15 out of each paycheck for a year and you have $780 in a year.
Only if you get paid every week, better save $30 per paycheck using this method.
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Old 07-05-2013, 09:49 AM   #3450
Cruisin'Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AzBob2112 View Post
OK, so, I joined the forum so I could post this...

I picked up my CB1100 last Friday (April 5th). My bike is #0071. I am 6'0", ~220lbs, with 32" inseam. I've been riding on-road for the past three years. My other bike is a 2008 Honda CBR1000RR. I am 38 years old.

With that out of the way, lemme give my ride report:

I picked up my bike with exactly 0.3 miles on it and road it home, approximately 26 miles. Unfortunately, I was not able to test ride one before I could buy one because my dealer doesn't do demo's (I also purchased my CBR from them, without a test ride). I got my bike for several hundred under MSRP, including a $100 on the rear carrier, when it comes in.

On the ride home, I liked the seating position: no more bent over like on the CBR. The pegs are in a great place for me to have a nice knee bend, and stay on the balls of my feet, like I'm used to. I did not find they hinder my ability to put my feet down; I can flat-foot no problem, being six feet tall.

After I got home, I basically immediately went right out and rode around for about a half an hour with my girlfriend on the back. I adjusted the rear preload to position 4 (one from hardest) and adjusted the front preload three turns toward hard from stock. For two-up, this was fine. (I have since dropped the front preload back a half turn and it seems to be perfect for just me) Together we weigh approximately 380lbs., which is RIGHT at the load limit. Those thinking of doing two-up touring on this bike are going to be over the load limit (379 lbs.).

The default placement of the adjustable levers is too close for me, and the default slack in the throttle cable was way too high for me. I have since adjusted the levers to position 4 and adjusted the throttle cable to 1mm slack (just like I have my CBR) -- I find I can control the throttle MUCH better this way.

The wind blast is about the same as my CBR (with double-bubble screen) up to about 70mph. At 80mph, it becomes a bit of a thing to deal with, but not impossible. I wouldn't want to ride at 80+mph for any kind of time, though (the speed limit on the section of highway near where I live is 75), as it does take some effort to keep one's body in the position one wants.

The bike handles very well. The wide bars make slow turns very easy, and fast sweepers are just as easily handled. You will run out of rear tire before you get into the peg feelers, however, as the tire is skinny -- I have no chicken strips already. One thing I would like, though, is a steering damper. The front-end gets a bit nervous at 80+mph when you move around on the bike in a straight line.

The transmission is, in a word, sublime. As good as the race-ready one on my CBR, clutchless upshifts after second are easy. I tried clutchless upshifting 1-2, but it gets stuck sometimes, so I stopped doing it. Similarly, rev-matched downshifts are a breeze, though second gear is a bit tall (comparatively), so a bit of conscious effort is required. I am somewhat spoiled by the slipper clutch on my CBR.

The fuel gauge. Ah, the fuel gauge. My CBR doesn't have a fuel gauge. Instead, it has an ingenious fuel usage count-up thing in tenths of a gallon once it hits a certain point that goes to .9, and after that, the engine quits. 100% accurate 100% of the time. The CB, not so much. At this point, I am inclined to consider the fuel gauge a mild reminder that I may need fuel and instead rely on the trip meter. On my last fill up, I rode with the red/black bar flashing wildly for at least ten miles and still put slightly more than 3 gallons in the tank. Oh, also, the fuel tank makes it insanely easy to spill gas all over the beautiful paint. I've done it a couple of times now.

Other things I can think of: the mirrors are large and well-placed. I set my left one to see behind me and my right to see the right lanes (I'm usually to everyone's left, so this works for me 99% of the time) and I can see everything (head checks are still important though!). The grips are a bit hard and have what I consider a strange pattern -- after riding for two hours straight, they began to hurt my hands a little. The seat is comfortable, but after that two hour ride, my butt was a bit sore. The engine/exhaust is very quiet. I notice that the engine makes quite a bit different noise depending on whether it is hot or not (not cold vs. operating temperature, but rather at operating temperature but cool [e.g. riding around at a steady pace] and operating temperature but hot [e.g. stopping at lots of traffic lights/stop signs]). And I do hear the fins twang when it cools down.

I did a charity ride on Saturday with it for several hours with stops in between. The ride was mostly Harley riders. As I pulled into the registration at the start of the ride, I was somewhat surprised to see several of the hardened Harley riders gather around and take a look. Some even mentioned how they liked the throwback look. Although someone did quip about how do I tell it's running, since the engine is so quiet (which is how I prefer it).

Besides the charity ride, and the two hour ride I did the first night, I have commuted back and forth to work on it this week. It handles great in traffic. The big, well-placed mirrors and nice balance make it very easy to sling around on both the highway and local streets. I did have two people attempt to occupy my lane the first two days, which almost never happens on my CBR, which I attribute to riding with my yellow high beam on at all times, so I will be riding with the high beam on from now on. I appreciate that Honda included the euro switch gear on the American version -- something we don't usually get (the flash-to-pass switch and the hazard light switch). Oh, and the horn is nice and loud.

One last thing: the brakes. One my initial ride, the brakes seemed to be sub-par. That could be because I was riding two-up, or because I'm used to the stainless steel lines with street/race pads I have on my CBR. However, now that I have nearly 500 miles on the bike, the brakes seem to be where I would expect them to be for this bike, which is to say they provide all the stopping power I would think I can make use of.

I waited for several years for this bike. I answered the initial customer survey from Honda about two years ago, asking current Honda owners about an air-cooled inline four cylinder standard bike, and if I would buy one if it was available in the United States. I guess I did everyone a favor by saying yes to that survey.

Zero miles on ODO:



0.3 miles on trip ODO:



In the driveway:







With big brother:






-Bob
Awesome report.. My first post in this thread. I've been eyeing this one long before it was announced it was coming....I just sold my starter TU250x.........having.a.hard.time.not.going.to.the .dealer.right.now. ;)
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