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09-20-2012, 02:26 PM
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#16 |
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Devil's Advocate
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Central CT
Oddometer: 1,288
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My donor R is a 2000.
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Just remember, once you're over the hill, you begin to pick up speed. Devil's advocate. Hell conscientious and informed and downright argumentative dissenter. |
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09-20-2012, 02:35 PM
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#17 |
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Devil's Advocate
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Central CT
Oddometer: 1,288
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I'll measure tonight the one R stanchion I have tonight. I picked up a wrecked R1100R from a local dealer and s GS front from Ebay.
Also different is the lower fork brace and upper bridge. IMO the difference has minimal effect on front end geometry. gives a little more travel with longer stanchion and thr GS lower fork bridge.
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Just remember, once you're over the hill, you begin to pick up speed. Devil's advocate. Hell conscientious and informed and downright argumentative dissenter. |
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09-20-2012, 02:37 PM
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#18 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2011
Oddometer: 55
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Yea, I'll be detailing the build of the front end in the next post.
I'm curious to hear how your measurements come out. |
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09-21-2012, 03:50 PM
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#19 |
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Devil's Advocate
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Central CT
Oddometer: 1,288
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I measured the R1100R stanchion and its 634mm give or take 1mm since I was using a cloth tape. IMO different part numbers probably indicative of a different supplier.
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Just remember, once you're over the hill, you begin to pick up speed. Devil's advocate. Hell conscientious and informed and downright argumentative dissenter. |
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09-21-2012, 03:51 PM
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#20 | |
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"Cool" Aid!
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Alexandria, VA
Oddometer: 41,488
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Quote:
Jim
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09-21-2012, 07:56 PM
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#21 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2005
Location: the west
Oddometer: 1,726
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1100 GS rear wheel lugs 60mm
1150 GS rear wheel lugs 63mm (2001 model yr) Why are 63mm lugs used on 2001 1150 GS? Wheel hubs seem identical. Lots of old threads here on wheel swaps. Wheels for above appear to be the same as do the FD. On later 1150 GS there is a difference in ABS rotors with later 1150 using pressed steel instead of cast AL. Thought that Woody had told me that the later style wheels and rotors could still be used but maybe that was just on the front. The brake rotor depth may be diff but the caliper adjusts. |
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09-21-2012, 09:27 PM
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#22 | |
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"Cool" Aid!
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Alexandria, VA
Oddometer: 41,488
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Quote:
Jim
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09-24-2012, 07:46 AM
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#23 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2011
Oddometer: 55
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Front suspension
Changing over the front suspension is only slightly more difficult than the rear. You'll need to change the following parts:
1. Shock 2. Lower fork brace 3. Fender 4. Remove the R steering stabilizer The only nuance is the hard brake line that goes between the calipers, you'll need to reshape it to clear the GS fender, or replace it with a longer hard line or braided stainless line...your choice. Some ask why the lower fork brace needs changing. This is one of the parts that has a different shape/geometry which helps to raise the bike. It's very obvious when you see the GS and the R version side by side. The ball joint on the GS version sits much higher therefore moving the lower fork tubes down. Make sense? You can see the convex shape in the picture. ![]() Note to self: I thought I washed the bike after the last ride??? |
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09-24-2012, 03:33 PM
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#24 |
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Devil's Advocate
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Central CT
Oddometer: 1,288
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I replaced the original brake lines with speigler steel braided lines specific for the GS. I also replaced steering handlebar mount to use longer bars.
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Just remember, once you're over the hill, you begin to pick up speed. Devil's advocate. Hell conscientious and informed and downright argumentative dissenter. |
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09-24-2012, 05:57 PM
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#25 |
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the famous james
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA.
Oddometer: 8,031
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I have also messed with R/GS fitments.
The passenger peg loops on the R are shorter than on the GS. I found this out when I tried to mount Happy Trails rack for a GS on the R.....it was easily fixed though. All skid plates intended for GS will fit R. All crash bars intended for GS will fit R. I have some parts hanging around if anyone is doing a swap either way. Some shocks. Brake discs. 7/8" to Fat bar adapters. Maybe some torque arms. I just totaled my Rockster/GS and all the groovy parts are in Baja. Moto-Techniques torque arm, Braking wave rotors. Happy Trails side racks. Rox risers and adapters. Remus.. Acerbis hand guards....the list goes on. They are fun projects and R's and Rocksters are such a bargain.
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I am not intimidated by the DMV James and Colleen Tucker.Real Cafe Racers drink tea. Aut viam inveniam aut faciam |
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09-24-2012, 06:53 PM
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#26 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2011
Oddometer: 55
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Cockpit
Since we're heading toward the topic of controls, etc....
Anyone who owns an R knows that the two piece bars are the wrong geometry for any sort of off-road riding. Now, handlebar and windscreen preferences come in as many flavors as there are riders, so here's what "I" did... I wanted a wide dual sport type bar, so I picked a ProTaper "ATV High" bend in a 1 and 1/8" diameter. But, how to mount them to the top brace? I used some spacers from Moto Techniques and some clamps from an '02 KTM. To get the height right (to clear the switches on the dash) I lathed some aluminum spacers. This worked really well for "me"....the reach is good and I was still able to use the R front brake hose. I've put a couple hundred miles on with this set up, and so far, I like it. If I ever decide to move the bars up or back, I will have to change the front brake hose though. The windshield in the picture is the stock accessory windscreen that you see in the picture of the "donor" bike above, that I modified. I knew I wanted something shorter and sportier, so I cut down the original to a more modern shape and size. I must say, I was pretty lucky, it works really well (I'm 6"0"), pressure is off the chest and clean air over the helmet. My original plan was to use a Flyscreen from an 1150R (and may still do that down the road), but right now this is working and it was free. For this interim screen, I use the stock lower mounts and welded tabs to accommodate another set of bolts; very similar to the 1150R Flyscreen mount. ![]()
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09-24-2012, 07:02 PM
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#27 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Nov 2011
Oddometer: 55
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Other details
The 1100R was originally marketed as a "Roadster" with some retro styling cues; chrome mirrors, chrome headlight bucket and a chrome housing for the dash.
To get rid of that look and bring the bike up to date, I painted the headlight bucket to match the tank, painted the dash housing (Krylon "Dull Aluminum" is a great match for the silver paint used by the factory) and installed GS mirrors from Wunderlich. I also installed GS pegs, center stand and side stand. ![]() ![]() Overall, I'm very pleased with the end result, sort of a simple version of the GS. For travel, I have a set of the System panniers and large dry duffel from Wolfman. There may be some changes later on, but for now, the only change will be a new set of Heidenaus in about 1,000 miles. The bike that BMW should have built?? Maybe. |
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09-25-2012, 06:35 PM
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#28 |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Tropical Far East
Oddometer: 999
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Will the plastic GS tank sit on this bike?
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09-25-2012, 06:39 PM
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#29 |
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"Cool" Aid!
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Alexandria, VA
Oddometer: 41,488
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Not without replacing the oil cooler, fabbing mounts, and some other minor work.
It would look funny without the beak as well. Jim
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09-26-2012, 05:17 AM
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#30 |
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Adventurer
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Sunny Sunderland - UK
Oddometer: 71
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![]() That is very very nice, to my mind you've absolutely succeeded in making it look like factory bike - well done. |
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