Dr. Bean's 950 fuel pump kits

[dad2bike]

Payment sent for my 2 kits.

[canadasax]

I just finished the Dr. Bean fuel pump upgrade (nice kit, by the way)



I used a new pump I had sitting around for the upgrade and I was very curious to see what my points looked like in the original pump that has been on the bike for 51,000 kms.
I have never run out of fuel and I have never done any deep water crossings.
Lots of off road , so there would be lots of dust and dirt.

Used points.



New points from the new pump I had sitting around



To be honest, I thought they would look worse.

I will throw the new set of points in my tool kit on the bike just in case, as Dr. Bean says, my bike gets hit by lightning and fries my new solid state fuel pump upgrade.

[Patacca]

Thank drBean, the mod is arrived in a few days to Italy... Sample written on, very cheap shipping. Thank again some new order from Italy should arrive soon...

[Dr_Bean]

Originally Posted by canadasax

I just finished the Dr. Bean fuel pump upgrade (nice kit, by the way)

Used points.



To be honest, I thought they would look worse.

Some pumps have points that are well-aligned: They last longer. You can see the material on upper half is about 80% gone nevertheless: So you had a goodone, that would maybe have lasted 65k km.
Actually you can also see that the new points are worse quality: They are not properly aligned, and those will maybe last only 30k km.


Again: Don't send me mails, please just send me a PM here on the forum if you want info about the kit.

[dad2bike]

Found both my kits waiting for my at the PO on Friday.
Now to find the time to do the install.
Thanks Dr. Bean.

[canadasax]

Let us know how it goes and what you think of the upgrade.
I was impressed with the product and was very pleased when the bike started after I was done.

[ridewestKTM]

I noted this before but I did some repair on a pump and this issue is important.
When working with the pump: my kit, Dr Bean kit, FET or bone stock BE CAREFULL PULLING OFF TUBES!. If you bend the barbs even slightly it breaks the seal inside the pump head and performance will suffer to the point of no pressure and no flow. Bending the barbs back may recover some but it's not likely.

That said; if you want limp home via gravity flow, or pressure (in) the tank, and are to lazy to by-pass the pump and are willing to toss it then bend the barbs and the pump isn't there any longer. If you do this remove the fuse too.

[canadasax]

I am not sure what you are referring to.
The fuel lines?
Once you take the clamps off, the fuel lines come off the inlet and outlet barbs quite easily.
Maybe I am confused.
The hardest part of the whole job was getting the rubber mounting tube off of the fuelpump.

By the way, thanks for all the imput you have given in this whole fuelpump thing..
Your posts have always been very interesting and informative.

[Dr_Bean]

Originally Posted by canadasax

The hardest part of the whole job was getting the rubber mounting tube off of the fuelpump.

You don't have to take the mounting rubber off the pump: Just take the pump with the rubber off of the bracket. Then the black cap covering the contact breakers goes off without removing the mounting rubber.

I think RideWest is referring to the pump outlets: Indeed the pump housing is only quite thin metal, and bending it affects the pump performance.
It is a wise notice, but on the other hand: If you release the hose-clamps, there shoulde be no problem to do this without to much force.

1 side you just take off of the tank-tap. The other side you have to release since it goes to the carburator: Unless you have mounted a fuelfilter in this line (like I have), then you can just tale the line off of the filter.

[crazybrit]

Originally Posted by Dr_Bean

If you release the hose-clamps, there shoulde be no problem to do this without to much force.

On my pump the hose clamps were the crimp on type. So removing them would have meant replacing them, which I didn't want to do. Unless there is some clever way I'm missing?

[Dr_Bean]

Originally Posted by crazybrit

On my pump the hose clamps were the crimp on type. So removing them would have meant replacing them, which I didn't want to do. Unless there is some clever way I'm missing?

No you are correct: originally these clamps are crimp-on types.

Hence I suggest/advise: (950 only of course)
- leave the short hose from tank to pump ON the pump.
- remove the crimp type clamp from the outlet of the pump and replace by a proper fuelline-clamp (crew-type) available in every bike/car shop.

This allows
- easy removal of the pump
- easy bypassing of the pump of emergency purpose: Just swap the fuelline from the pump (to carb) by taking it off of the pump and connect it to the tank-tap.
ps.: If you bypass teh pump: UNplugg it !

just me 2ct.

[ridewestKTM]

Originally Posted by canadasax

I am not sure what you are referring to.
The fuel lines?
Once you take the clamps off, the fuel lines come off the inlet and outlet barbs quite easily.
Maybe I am confused.
The hardest part of the whole job was getting the rubber mounting tube off of the fuelpump.

By the way, thanks for all the imput you have given in this whole fuelpump thing..
Your posts have always been very interesting and informative.

It varies from bike to bike - Some come off easy some not so. I bent one once and receiently I got one which must have been very bad -barbs were bent 20degrees or so.

Thanks.
Yes geting the rubber off (when needed) is tough I use a piece of metel or plastic tubing that fits over the body and lifts the rubber above the crimpped rim of the the pump head. As Dr Bean said usually there's no need.

[TcRulz]

Another happy conversion done in Australia - thank you Dr Bean.

Raining here so nothing could be better than removing one more problem from a loved 950 Adv. Great conversion, easy to do and with good instructions. Took about 3 weeks to get here from the Netherlands.

My points were stuffed but will be good for spares. I resoldered a wire back on the points (the original is unsoldered and then resoldered to the circuit board that you get from Dr Bean) to make it easier to put back in, if the need arises, while I'm riding away from civilization out in the sticks. This way I can just 'twitch' the two wires back together.

Also put a little rubber grease on 'O' ring so it would go back together easier and help waterproofing.

[Patacca]

Originally Posted by canadasax

Why did you put the punp in a glass?!?!?

[canadasax]

Originally Posted by Patacca

Why did you put the punp in a glass?!?!?

I was trying to find something stable so I could take some close up pictures. A plastic jar filled with pennies worked pretty well.

I must have 300 pennies in that jar, whats that worth.......$3.00