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Old 01-10-2013, 11:11 AM   #2056
DirtyBlackIrish
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Originally Posted by Tnutt View Post
Hello, i have been reading on the crf for a while and was just able to get me the bike!!!
I was reading about the richochet skid plate and seems like the welds were not to professional!

Is there a better skid plate for sale? A link would be great!
I am also looking for handguards, radiator guard, rear rack! Any suggestions as to which is better would be great!

Thanks for your help
Trying to get my bike geared up for the TAT!

Welcome, there are a number of links in the forum. I suggest reading through. There is a ton of great info. CRF's Only is one sight that has skid plates. There are a number of others out there too now. I am waiting for the release of the AXP plastic plate. Lighter than all the aluminum ones and performs as well or better in most areas but not all. Trade offs right? The aluminum one I saw and liked was from like supreme racing or superior or something. Look through the older posts and you'll see much. I got the rack from CRF's Only and it is great. Light, fit right up, not to wide but wider than most. I got pics in here somewhere. Brembo I think.

http://www.soloracer.com/crf250lparts.html

Another place that sells gunk.
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:19 AM   #2057
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Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
It is my opinion that regular 87 octane, made appropriately with the full legal % of ethanol to keep prices down, to make low cost sub-regular low octane SWILL gasoline into a regular that american cars will find acceptable. American cars with EFI are very fuel tolerant. The 91 octane "mid grade" is often called a cheater fuel. Take regular, lace in a few more % ethanol, and get something that might be 91 octane, but sell it for 10 cents a gallon more. In most cases, even properly blended mid-grade fuels are a waste of money, as a fuel tolerant car, designed for regular, will suck it up, and give you nothing for it...but obviously can't tell you you are wasting money. HOWEVER, cars tuned for premium usually DEMAND it, and often will use a knock sensor to degrade power (retard the spark) to protect the engine....and this power degrade is often very apparent in terms of miles per gallon.

Now, having said all of that, premium in a motorcycle can help rideability. I have to admit I lug the daylights out of my XR400R Honda and KLR650 Kawasaki. On premium, if you are running a gear too high, and for some reason have to quickly whack the throttle for more power, there is less likelihood of the dreaded cough-and-stall, than if you had regular fuel. So...there are times when I fuel these bikes differently....and I would assume the tiny 250 is prone to cough-and-stall much more easily than the bigger engines.................and besides, you're getting 60 or so mpg out of the 250...so the $$$$ penalty for premium doesn't amount to much. And YES, I buy brand name premium...Sunoco, Shell, BP.
OK, since we are "off the beaten track" of the actual owner's forum, this is enlightening on the "gasoline" subject. I have the book by Bamford, not an easy read. The trip I took to Nova Scotia a few years back, 20/20 hindsight, I would have brought toluene to override the turd who pumped regular into my (not a CRFL) bike at the time which needed 91 octane. My bike ran like crap, and spoiled the Cabot Trail ride. http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc...explained.html

Oops, Bamsey: McLaren Honda Turbo - a technical appraisal
Ian Bamsey
ISBN 0-85429-840-1, published 1990

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Old 01-10-2013, 11:30 AM   #2058
DirtyBlackIrish
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Since octane is the fuels ability to resist detonation, then how the octane is provided is not of as much importance as what your engine needs octane wise to operate properly. Higher compression engines can predetonate fuel much easier than one of lower compression considering everything engine wise is as it should be. With a single cylinder engine it's more easily noticed if there is a problem because there is only one cylinder. Putting in higher octane fuel in an engine that doesn't require it for proper operation, as per design, won't hurt the engine. Not the same the other way around due to the predetonation. The benefit of having it fuel injected is that the temp of the exhaust is used to adjust the amount of fuel used to ensure efficient detonation. On carburated models this is set and requires manual adjustment set for a range.

I have used all three and have found that I have seen no noticeable difference in any riding condition. Fuel mileage is always consistent within range on all. This is just my observations on my bike. Others may differ.

Fuel additives that are used by any number of wholesalers can certainly change the quality of the fuel and potentially it's octane rating. What you see labeled on the pump may not always be accurate regardless of laws. I combat this as much as possible by getting my fuel at larger chain recognized fuel suppliers when ever realistic. Sometimes it's just not possible. I have only had one bad fuel experience so far on the bike and it was extremely noticeable. I stopped as soon as possible and siphoned it into a can bought at another fuel station and refilled. I was very thankful for the small tank at that point, hahahaha. I immediately noticed the difference when getting back underway.

Just my $0.02 on the topic.
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:38 AM   #2059
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Originally Posted by Ply318ci View Post
In case you guys are interested in new foot pegs the IMS Super stock and Pro-Series foot pegs for the CRF450R (02-08) will fit the 250L. They are part numbers 272219 for the Super Stock and 292220-4 (5/8" back) and 292219-4 (normal) for the Pro-Series. Just installed the Pro-series on a 250L and they look great and add more grip due to the larger teeth. The right side peg had thicker powder coating on the bolt hole so that had to be cleaned out but over all a nice fit. I will try to get pics up later.
Look nice. Pro series is an interesting idea. Might be more comfy with my shitty knees?
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:02 PM   #2060
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Originally Posted by stratus17 View Post
Hello everybody,

I am interested in riding a CRF250L and will try one as soon as possible. The reason for my interest is having a much lighter (and less powerful) bike than my current or previous bikes : VFR800, Sprint ST 955, BMW R1150R, But I am really short at 5'4'' and I would like to know if any of you is as short as myself but still can manage a CRF250L ? Thanks in advance.
There are also some things you can do to lower it more. Spendy of course but just an FYI.

http://japan.webike.net/products/20398952.html

http://japan.webike.net/products/20695715.html
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:29 PM   #2061
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Originally Posted by DirtyBlackIrish View Post
There are also some things you can do to lower it more. Spendy of course but just an FYI.

http://japan.webike.net/products/20398952.html

http://japan.webike.net/products/20695715.html
That is spendy, I think with the kouba link in mine it's low enough for me to manage it better. I could always get the seat "shaved" but I don't like the idea of ruining my OEM seat just in case I decide to sell it. The way it sits now after bob80 installed the lowering link and lowered the front forks, I wouldn't want to lose much more clearance. And I'm 5'4 on a good day
I think my biggest problem was I'm used to the street bike and when coming to a stop on the CRF I sometimes forgot how tall it was and dumped it a couple times. I just have to watch where I park lol
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:03 PM   #2062
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Originally Posted by DirtyBlackIrish View Post

Fuel additives that are used by any number of wholesalers can certainly change the quality of the fuel and potentially it's octane rating. What you see labeled on the pump may not always be accurate regardless of laws. I combat this as much as possible by getting my fuel at larger chain recognized fuel suppliers when ever realistic. Sometimes it's just not possible. I have only had one bad fuel experience so far on the bike and it was extremely noticeable. I stopped as soon as possible and siphoned it into a can bought at another fuel station and refilled. I was very thankful for the small tank at that point, hahahaha. I immediately noticed the difference when getting back underway.

Just my $0.02 on the topic.
Do you happen to remember the octane level/grade of the "bad" fuel you experienced? And could you explain the symptoms that you noticed?
Thx

Quote:
Originally Posted by SAPB View Post
. The trip I took to Nova Scotia a few years back, 20/20 hindsight, I would have brought toluene to override the turd who pumped regular into my (not a CRFL) bike at the time which needed 91 octane. My bike ran like crap, and spoiled the Cabot Trail ride.
Hummm........A visitor who noticed shitty gas in Nova Scotia??...this is kind of ironic, seeing that's where I'm from..It didn't happen to be Irving by any chance, I try to avoid it as much as possible (only by other peoples opinions, and bad experiences with it myself, in various different vehicles) They pretty much control the fuel distribution in these parts...Hope it didn't ruin your Cabot trail experience too bad
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:29 PM   #2063
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Originally Posted by Bob80 View Post
Do you happen to remember the octane level/grade of the "bad" fuel you experienced? And could you explain the symptoms that you noticed?
Thx


Hummm........A visitor who noticed shitty gas in Nova Scotia??...this is kind of ironic, seeing that's where I'm from..It didn't happen to be Irving by any chance, I try to avoid it as much as possible (only by other peoples opinions, and bad experiences with it myself, in various different vehicles) They pretty much control the fuel distribution in these parts...Hope it didn't ruin your Cabot trail experience too bad
Can't remember the name of it, the guy says, "Oh yeah, you need high test", and hands me the filler, my fault for not checking, I guess. Around the half way point, we asked if there was gas up ahead, and she said yes, turned out to be only regular (87 octane). Not a problem for my daughter's ER6-N, but mine needed 91. Beautiful riding place, my Grandfather grew up in NB, and my Grandmother grew up in PEI. We took the ferry over to the island on the way back, and came back on the bridge. I would love to get up there again, with the LRP, no problems with 87 then. Took a wrong turn in Cape Breton, and ended up at the ferry to Newfoundland. Isn't getting lost great!
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:53 PM   #2064
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CRf250L Problem

I got the CRF back today the problem was water in the ecu connector that shorted out the ignition circuit. The ignition barrel has been replaced under guarantee and all is good to go. I got my HDB handguards too so i will post a pic up when its all fitted.
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:53 PM   #2065
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Tnutt, I saw you asked about the skid plate, I ordered the Flatland Racing Skid Plate from CRF's Only. It's $91.15 plus shipping. Reason for buying this plate was I liked the looks and a buddy of mine has one on his WR250R and it looks very nice, that sold me. As far as handguards, I went with the Tusk D-Flex sold by Rocky Mountain ATV-MC, $54.95 plus shipping. I have used these handguards on several bikes, including KLR's and DRZ's and all fit well, on the CRF250L they were a perfect fit, the handlebar mount does swivel which makes the fit perfect and no bending of the bar is needed. I also got the 1" Tusk Handle Bar Risers that are priced at $19.75 if I remember correctly and they also fit the bike and no adjustment to the cables was needed, I did loosen the wires on the handlebars are relocated the nylon push clamps to give the wires more freedom. I got the rear rack made by Nomadic, it's the black tube type, $79.00 on eBay, looks and fit were very good, I have used their products before and no problems. I look and read about everyone bike here and buy what I like and works for me, we all have different ideas on what we want, so the forum helps me decide on what works for me.

John
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:58 PM   #2066
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Originally Posted by gregitt View Post
I contacted Dobeck and he suggested adjusting the controller. GREEN/BLUE MODE 4 TO #1 position.
That sounds logical after I looked at the Dobeck website and read up on the EJK a little more. Adjusting the GREEN/BLUE mode might help the stalling issue......at least that's something to think about and try later if needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gregitt View Post
I have not done this because now I have adjusted my throttle style coming to a stop and it rarely does it..
I can see how just giving the bike a few blips of the throttle with the clutch pulled in would help and how the stalling might be overcome this way also.
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:59 PM   #2067
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About stalling, i had my share too here

-but occasionally, once for 500km if i had to make statistics

-i always use the same known brand (Shell), regular unleaded 95 (not the V-Power98).
Octane grades are not same here in Europe, but i dont know how..

- with stock exhaust and later, after installed FMF Q4 line

-Those stalling always occured when almost at stop, after noticeable engine breaking.

-Got more of them after corcked the FMF w/ a dB killer

-so i leaned a bit via EJK (now 1.5/1.5/3/...) seems to have cured the problem, as far as i noticed.

All this makes me suspect it'is caused more by a glitch in the engine managment (ECU) rather than by fuel quality.

Bah .. i can live with

L
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:04 PM   #2068
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Originally Posted by trainman View Post
Tnutt, I saw you asked about the skid plate, I ordered the Flatland Racing Skid Plate from CRF's Only. It's $91.15 plus shipping. Reason for buying this plate was I liked the looks and a buddy of mine has one on his WR250R and it looks very nice, that sold me. As far as handguards, I went with the Tusk D-Flex sold by Rocky Mountain ATV-MC, $54.95 plus shipping. I have used these handguards on several bikes, including KLR's and DRZ's and all fit well, on the CRF250L they were a perfect fit, the handlebar mount does swivel which makes the fit perfect and no bending of the bar is needed. I also got the 1" Tusk Handle Bar Risers that are priced at $19.75 if I remember correctly and they also fit the bike and no adjustment to the cables was needed, I did loosen the wires on the handlebars are relocated the nylon push clamps to give the wires more freedom. I got the rear rack made by Nomadic, it's the black tube type, $79.00 on eBay, looks and fit were very good, I have used their products before and no problems. I look and read about everyone bike here and buy what I like and works for me, we all have different ideas on what we want, so the forum helps me decide on what works for me.

John
+1 on that John, lurked here for a while during the time waiting for my bike to get here. More and more things available for our bike all the time. I think that all the people who are waiting for a good deal on a used one shouldn't be holding their breath!
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:13 PM   #2069
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About stalling, i had my share too here

-Those stalling always occured when almost at stop, after noticeable engine breaking.
That pretty much sums up how mine occured also.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:18 PM   #2070
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Originally Posted by DirtyBlackIrish View Post
The aluminum one I saw and liked was from like supreme racing or superior or something.
I bet you are talking about the skid plate from Emperor Racing, (formerly Scorpion Racing). I like that plate also. Here is a link to it.

http://shopusa.emperorracing.com/p/h...-1?pp=24&pp=24
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