The CRF250L Owners thread

[Tnutt]

Originally Posted by 'Flagger

Spoke to IMS at the beginning of the month .... they had first molds available at that time but hadn't done a test fits yet. "Happy Flow" thru the testing process would make them available to us towards the end of Feb or in March.

That said, I encourage you to call them and get an update for us all. Doesn't hurt to remind them that we're waiting, either.

Emailed ims and this was their response:

**** We are finishing up a fuel tank for this bike, slated for a release sometime in February. I do not have any information regarding capacity or pricing as of yet.

[Willwilkins]

Originally Posted by 'Flagger

Spoke to IMS at the beginning of the month .... they had first molds available at that time but hadn't done a test fits yet. "Happy Flow" thru the testing process would make them available to us towards the end of Feb or in March.

That said, I encourage you to call them and get an update for us all. Doesn't hurt to remind them that we're waiting, either.

Cool, thanks for the quick reply

[trainman]

For you out there that want parts for your CRF250L, here is a web page that will help. I use it at times just to see how thing go together so I can get them apart. Just click on Honda Parts, Year, Model, you will get there, John

http://www.hondapartsnation.com/oemp...f250l-ac-parts

[MentalGuru]

Originally Posted by Krono

To clear the DTC, you must short the DLC

All that .. to say you should be at least a rocket scientist just to set the idle speed on one of these technichally up-to-date bike

All thou i also have an idling problem and i got the service manual, im still shy to go into that. Cant neither copy the entire manual to describe procedures.

Maybe i will eventually try the Lost's screw

btw, SAS is secondary Air System, TP sensor is Throttle Position, DTC is Diagnostic Trouble Code, IACV Idle Air Control Valve and MIL is Malfunction Indicator Lamp, DLC is Data Link Connector

L

Why not explain that the screw is a picture of the minimum air flow screw? A baseline of sorts. The IAC valve is what controls the extra airflow need to reach the correct idle speed.

It is set below idle speed to reduce emissions and conserve fuel on decel.

As the engine rpm gets close to the idle rpm the IAC adds air as needed.

The reason the adjuster has white paint on it is because adjusting it is an federal emissions violation and may cause grief at the dealer too.

Adjusting the screw slightly should help solve the stalling problem, but may set a code if the IAC has to close too far. I'm not sure what parameters they use to set a DTC and how much/close everything is monitered..

It seems to be a software problem of sorts. An update to the programing would also fix it. But who know if Honda will make one...

It is a simple system. I would like to find out how many memory cells it uses and if it has a EEPROM. I'm also curious about the amount of short term and long term adaptive memory it has.

[NJ-Brett]

I would be interested in knowing more about how the system works on the CRF if anyone knows.
You can get very detailed info on car systems, but not much about what they put on bikes.
My FI TU250 seems to have a good system, and its got an engine temp sensor, an air intake temp sensor, a manifold pressure sensor, dual throttles, one cable operated, one stepper motor driven, both with position sensors, and the stepper motor throttle has a cam on it that does fast idle on cold start, and it seems to bump that throttle open if you snap the throttle closed, but it does NOT adjust the idle speed otherwise.
After break in, the TU can tend to flame out when the motor is cold.
Adjusting the throttle stop a bit prevents that, and adjusting it more open then that seems to stop the over run back fires as the ecu never sees the throttle closed all the way causing the ecu to not do whatever it does on over run.
And its not the air injection, as you can plug that up and it would still back fire.
The bike runs fine, and sets no codes if you adjust the stop a little or a lot.
Increasing the idle speed using the bypass port screw increases the idle speed, but does not stop the flame outs unless you turn it way up.

It would seem a real ISCV (Idle Speed Control Valve) would be nice, just like a car has. Does the CRF have one?

There is little or no info as to why Suzuki uses two throttles, or what the system actually does when.
There are FI systems on every brand bike these days, and I would like to learn the differences between them.

[gnath9]

Just in case anyone is wondering how the Corbin seat order went, here is my email from them ....

Hi ~

Thank you for your interest in our products and for ordering with Corbin!

Attached you will find a PDF of your order that shows a description of your order including prices and freight charges. Please look over this order to make sure we have understood your requests and are producing the product as you have requested. If everything is correct, there is no need to reply to this e-mail.

Our products are custom made for you, therefore once an order has gone to production, the order cannot be modified or cancelled.

Current production lead time is approximately 2 -3 weeks for seats and 2 weeks for backrests and glass is 4-6 weeks from the sales order date shown on this PDF.

A tracking number will be e-mailed to you once your order has shipped, and signature required for delivery.

Your credit card will be charged before the order is sent to production. All seats are built to order and are non-refundable.

Thanks again for ordering with Corbin!

[Krono]

Originally Posted by MentalGuru

Why not explain that the screw is a picture of the minimum air flow screw? A baseline of sorts. The IAC valve is what controls the extra airflow need to reach the correct idle speed.

It is set below idle speed to reduce emissions and conserve fuel on decel.

As the engine rpm gets close to the idle rpm the IAC adds air as needed.

The reason the adjuster has white paint on it is because adjusting it is an federal emissions violation and may cause grief at the dealer too.

Adjusting the screw slightly should help solve the stalling problem, but may set a code if the IAC has to close too far. I'm not sure what parameters they use to set a DTC and how much/close everything is monitered..

It seems to be a software problem of sorts. An update to the programing would also fix it. But who know if Honda will make one...

It is a simple system. I would like to find out how many memory cells it uses and if it has a EEPROM. I'm also curious about the amount of short term and long term adaptive memory it has.

Thanks Mental & Brett too for the explanations

The idle hold well on itself, but goes too low on deccel/throttle cut, and sometimes goes to stalling before reaching its normal rpms again (1450).

Must be as you say because the throttle close too much before the IACV reacts (its a step motor one).

Ed@Ford said it maybe clogged by residues coming fron cranckase vent, what i should check before adjusting the throttle stop screw or anything else.

I will try all this step by step this WE, and keep you in touch w/ results

L

[SAPB]

Originally Posted by trainman

For you out there that want parts for your CRF250L, here is a web page that will help. I use it at times just to see how thing go together so I can get them apart. Just click on Honda Parts, Year, Model, you will get there, John

http://www.hondapartsnation.com/oemp...f250l-ac-parts

John, thanks for that link, other bikes I've had I use Bike Bandit, but our bike isn't listed there yet.

Eric

[MentalGuru]

Originally Posted by Krono

Thanks Mental & Brett too for the explanations

The idle hold well on itself, but goes too low on deccel/throttle cut, and sometimes goes to stalling before reaching its normal rpms again (1450).

Must be as you say because the throttle close too much before the IACV reacts (its a step motor one).

Ed@Ford said it maybe clogged by residues coming fron cranckase vent, what i should check before adjusting the throttle stop screw or anything else.

I will try all this step by step this WE, and keep you in touch w/ results

L

Remove then clean the IAC and the chamber the valve runs in. This is to make sure the valve isn't sticking and to allow more air to flow. This probably isn't the issue since the bikes have low mileage. You'll have to see how much residue there is to know for sure.

Also clean any residue off of the throttle plate edges and bore. This will increase the airflow when the throttle is fully closed.

If you do adjust the thottle stop screw you may have to adjust the TPS.
This will depend on how much change you make and the allowed acceptable TPS reading at closed throttle. It could set a TPS voltage high code. Readjusting the TPS will correct it if it is a problem.

I would probe the TPS sensor before making any adjustments so it can be readjusted to that value if needed.

The injection system is a speed density type system just like cars are using. This is due to the 2013 motorcycle emissions requirement changes.

This is why fuel controllers came out so fast. They just tune the MAP sensor readings just like on a car...

I would like to find out more about the system and it's abilitys...

Just as a note again, adjusting that screw is concidered a no-no by the feds and some dealers.

I'm not telling thou...

I would have chimed in days ago, but i was on a "vacation"....

[SAPB]

And for those of us who have more time to be online, because we can't ride due to weather issues, there's this thread: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=453338

[MentalGuru]

Originally Posted by SAPB

And for those of us who have more time to be online, because we can't ride due to weather issues, there's this thread: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=453338

Well that would include me...

I'm out of here Boss man...

[Ed@Ford]

Has anyone looked at the CRF throttle to see if there is a cable adjust like on carbureted bikes for taking up slack caused by cable stretch? If so, one could always fiddle with that to create the same effect as adjusting the throttle stop that appears to be a "no-no" to adjust. I'm too frikkin' lazy to go out in the cold garage and look at mine!

[outdoornate65]

Since this thread is moving along so fast now, I'm posting this question rather than wade through all the previous posts trying to glean the info I'm after regarding a rear rack for the LRP.

I'm wondering what feedback folks have regarding rear racks for the bike....good or bad.

My plan is to use the rack as a platform to mount a medium size Pelican case so I can have a little lockable storage for stuff like tools, raingear, ect. No worries on how I will mount the case to the rack, just want a well-built, sturdy rear rack.

So what are my options?

Thanks,

Nate

[MentalGuru]

Originally Posted by outdoornate65

Since this thread is moving along so fast now, I'm posting this question rather than wade through all the previous posts trying to glean the info I'm after regarding a rear rack for the LRP.

I'm wondering what feedback folks have regarding rear racks for the bike....good or bad.

My plan is to use the rack as a platform to mount a medium size Pelican case so I can have a little lockable storage for stuff like tools, raingear, ect. No worries on how I will mount the case to the rack, just want a well-built, sturdy rear rack.

So what are my options?

Thanks,

Nate

Set your posts per thread to 100 and don't be lazy....

I spent 30 seconds to find this post... 1 page back...

Originally Posted by Spud Rider

I've been doing some research on the luggage racks currently available for the CRF250L. Here are the racks I have been able to find. If I missed any racks, please let me know.

Most of the current luggage racks mount to the subframe in the front at the saddle bolts, and mount in the rear at the fender bolts. These racks distribute the weight nicely to the subframe, and also provide a grip for lifting the bike after it "takes a dirt nap."

Manracks is making several luggage racks for the CRF250L. The RotoPax Rack facilitates carrying extra fuel until a larger, aftermarket fuel tank becomes available. The Marracks racks also include lower rails to which you can conveniently attach your bungee cords, straps, et cetera.

http://www.manracks.com/#!honda-crf250l/cjhw







The Nomadic luggage rack is very similar to the Manracks rack. However, the Nomadic rack does lack the lower side rails for attaching bungee cords, straps, et cetera.

http://nomadic-racks.com/index.php?o...080&id=4113616



TurboCity also makes a luggage rack for the CRF250L. The Borrego Rack can be supplemented with additional side racks and luggage.

https://tciproductsusa.com/index.php...th=144_150_199







Bikerzbits is selling a luggage rack manufactured in Thailand.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=825294





However, at least one customer has complained about the fitment of this Thai luggage rack. This rack also lacks convenient rails to which you can attach your bungee cords.

Pro Moto Billet is making a luggage rack which uses different mounting points. This rack secures to four mounting points on the top of the subframe at the very rear of the bike.

http://www.promotobillet.com/catalog...n8r9ljl9ggk0t4





You can easily remove the saddle without affecting any of the mounting bolts for this luggage rack. However, I don't think this luggage rack will distribute heavy loads to the subframe as well as the racks which utilize the seat bolts. I don't think I would grab this luggage rack to help lift the motorcycle. Also, this luggage rack doesn't provide convenient, lower rails for attaching bungee cords, straps, et cetera.

Spud

[outdoornate65]

Disregard my above post....I'm a dumbass.

Thanks to Spud for putting together the post about all the avail rear racks.

Nate