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Old 01-26-2013, 08:22 AM   #2626
tilliejacques
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Location: northern New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride2live View Post
Any folks here at altitude? How is this bike performing, at say, 8,000 - 10,000'? I realize that the altitude folks in the northern half of the planet are mostly snowed in...
We live at 8300' and the FI is the big reason that I got the 250L. My 230L is jetted for this altitude but still bogged very badly above 9000'.

I've only had one ride so far from home up to 8500-8600 on a FS road so not too challenging but the bike was great, very snappy. The higher trails were all snowed in by then.

But in April we're going to Big Bend and no re-jetting yay!

Please note I don't ride "attack mode" so don't know how much I would notice the HP loss.

cheers
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:27 AM   #2627
trainman
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The chain when new didn't appear to have any additives on it other then the way the chain came new. The chain is now oily, so that's what makes me think that it's coming from behind the sprocket and throwing it on the chain, I will re-ride the bike as soon as the weather warms up again in two or three days.

John
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:39 AM   #2628
gnath9
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I think both the Corbin and the Seat Concepts are only wider when you sit back a little for road use and remain narrow towards the front for dirt riding. I would think you would have to scoot up in the seat when stopping as it is true the wider the saddle the less reach you will have. When I ordered the Corbin I had to tell them my height and weight. In my confirmation email they did state 34 inch seat height not sure what stock is. I have had experience with Mustang and Corbin seats on street bikes and they made all the difference in the world. I am not sure what the benefit will be if a person only rode dirt.
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:54 AM   #2629
toddol1971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krono View Post
Yes, but car drivers are pretty smart here, and let me always pass when they see me behind.

Only one tailgated me today


L
I dont know if its like it is in finland, but they teach driving dynamics as soon as you're old enough to look over the wheel.
I would imagine that makes for a better driver. Ultimately it comes down to driver ability. Here in the states, I dont think you'll find a worse bunch of drivers! Seems like everything but the driving and paying attention part is more important
I saw a person once eating bbq chicken while talking on the phone. Just lovely!
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:18 AM   #2630
Krono
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddol1971 View Post
I dont know if its like it is in finland, but they teach driving dynamics as soon as you're old enough to look over the wheel.
I would imagine that makes for a better driver. Ultimately it comes down to driver ability. Here in the states, I dont think you'll find a worse bunch of drivers! Seems like everything but the driving and paying attention part is more important
I saw a person once eating bbq chicken while talking on the phone. Just lovely!
I wouldn't say car drivers are so good here, but most are quite cooperative with motorbikes.

If i should complain, scooters are my target ... no traffic rules and so many and more and more powerful
... I fear mostly them

L
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:03 PM   #2631
Nevada
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never mind....
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:41 PM   #2632
foxbrook
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnath9 View Post
I think both the Corbin and the Seat Concepts are only wider when you sit back a little for road use and remain narrow towards the front for dirt riding. I would think you would have to scoot up in the seat when stopping as it is true the wider the saddle the less reach you will have..
Exactly what I was thinking, as long as it's narrow when I scoot up so I can still touch the ground then it will be ok. If it makes that narrow part higher I might have a issue with it. I'm just tippy toes on the bike before the lowering link and haven't got to ride it yet since the install. I live in Canada it's a bit chilly yet....

Quote:
Originally Posted by outdoornate65 View Post
I installed mine last week. Seems a "touch" lower. Like the black fabric.
I'm short too....5' 9" with 30" inseam. Balls of my feet are on the ground.
Thank you for the feedback, sounds like a go for me then
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Old 01-26-2013, 03:19 PM   #2633
Oldtimer
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Originally Posted by foxbrook View Post
Did anyone get the seat concepts low seat yet? I'm wondering if it actually makes it lower or does it push your legs out wider and actually makes the bike seem taller. I'm short lol
I have the lowered seat and it made just enough of a difference to make the CRF comfortably rideable (or should I say when I stop) with my 29 inch inseam.
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Old 01-26-2013, 03:54 PM   #2634
Telemarktumalo
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Location: Bend, Oregon
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Advice on Bar Change and Controls

I finally got all of my gear together to change my stock bar to the Easton EXP 1 3/8". I ordered a set of Cycra Pro Bend Handguards with the front mounts. I'm not sure what to expect when I start the swap. I've heard about "tabs" or "pins" on the controls that have to be removed or ground down. Are these part of the controls or are they on the OEM bar? Do I have to disconnect throttle cable, clutch cable and brake cable, or can I just slip these off of the ends? Thanks for any help or a link to any other postings for instructions.
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:31 PM   #2635
foxbrook
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldtimer View Post
I have the lowered seat and it made just enough of a difference to make the CRF comfortably rideable (or should I say when I stop) with my 29 inch inseam.
Thank you, I figured there must be a few people with this seat by now. With all the feedback, it will likely be next on my list.
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:50 PM   #2636
Spud Rider
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Location: Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Telemarktumalo View Post
I finally got all of my gear together to change my stock bar to the Easton EXP 1 3/8". I ordered a set of Cycra Pro Bend Handguards with the front mounts. I'm not sure what to expect when I start the swap. I've heard about "tabs" or "pins" on the controls that have to be removed or ground down. Are these part of the controls or are they on the OEM bar? Do I have to disconnect throttle cable, clutch cable and brake cable, or can I just slip these off of the ends? Thanks for any help or a link to any other postings for instructions.
If you have enough slack in the cables to remove the controls from the handlebars, don't remove the cables. However, you will probably at least need to disconnect the throttle cable.

If you don't wish to drill holes in the new handlebars, you will need to remove the nubs from the controls. I've done it both ways, and I prefer to remove the nubs from the controls with my dremel tool. If necessary, I wrap two layers of electrical tape around the handlebars to prevent slippage where the controls attach.

Spud
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Old 01-26-2013, 06:33 PM   #2637
MentalGuru
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
If you have enough slack in the cables to remove the controls from the handlebars, don't remove the cables. However, you will probably at least need to disconnect the throttle cable.

If you don't wish to drill holes in the new handlebars, you will need to remove the nubs from the controls. I've done it both ways, and I prefer to remove the nubs from the controls with my dremel tool. If necessary, I wrap two layers of electrical tape around the handlebars to prevent slippage where the controls attach.

Spud
I pull the grips, loosen the controls, remove the bars from the triple clamps and can normally just slide the controls off.

I use black tape trick too.


I cut the Easton 1 3/8" EXP bars to the first mark, about 5-7mm per side. I did it with a tubing cutter(I was about to get the saw out). It made it about half way in and the end snapped off clean.

It looks like it has 2 or 3 walls at the end. After I cut them I found out there is another wall in further inside.

My Acerbis x-strong inserts just fit inside the bar. When I went to put the inserts in after cutting the bar they were about 5mm too long. I shortened them to fit in about 2 minutes.

If I would have cut the bar anymore it the inserts would have need about 20- 30 minutes longer to rework the inserts as needed. About 3 marks is the maximum the bars could be cut before some serious reworking is needed to make the inserts fit.

The last wall on the end is harder then the outer walls. I didn't try to drill the inside wall deeper so I don't know how hard it is?

They fit and feel great now. I don't doubt the strength either.

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Old 01-26-2013, 06:51 PM   #2638
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MentalGuru View Post
I pull the grips, loosen the controls, remove the bars from the triple clamps and can normally just slide the controls off...
That's the way to do it, Guru! . The handlebars are coming off anyway.

Spud
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:31 PM   #2639
DirtyBlackIrish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itrack View Post
Just an FYI, the big gun eco does not fit the factory header. I modified the stock one (welding). It is nice quality and looks sharp. So if your ordering one get the header too. I will be contacting big gun tomorrow.

All the pictures show it with the heat shield and side plastic off. Did you have to do that or is it optional
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:03 AM   #2640
dangerdawg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trainman View Post
The chain when new didn't appear to have any additives on it other then the way the chain came new. The chain is now oily, so that's what makes me think that it's coming from behind the sprocket and throwing it on the chain, I will re-ride the bike as soon as the weather warms up again in two or three days.

John
I noticed this on my bike when it was new too. It went away after about 200 miles. I thought it was because it's an O ring chain, I figured excess chain lube between the O rings was slowly leaking out. On a different topic, after about 500 miles the motor started to loosen up, has 900 miles now and the difference in power from new is very noticeable.
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