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Old 02-11-2013, 05:00 AM   #3121
Ed@Ford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 'Flagger View Post
'Morning, Ed.
Here's a couple photos, one a close-up of the top of the shock, the others showing my homemade spring compressor.
No Cogent spamming intended. Clever little spring compressor. Are those modified muffler flanges or something? SOOOOO...the shock clevis is too fat to slide up thru the ID of the spring eh? Maybe it could be trimmed a tad. Doesn't look like any little split rings to ease assembly. Yup....an "economy" model. Don't see any hints that it could be rebuildable....like my KLR shock that Kawasaki said was "not rebuildable" but actually was.
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:50 AM   #3122
'Flagger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
No Cogent spamming intended. Clever little spring compressor. Are those modified muffler flanges or something? SOOOOO...the shock clevis is too fat to slide up thru the ID of the spring eh? Maybe it could be trimmed a tad. Doesn't look like any little split rings to ease assembly. Yup....an "economy" model. Don't see any hints that it could be rebuildable....like my KLR shock that Kawasaki said was "not rebuildable" but actually was.
Yep... exhaust flanges. One had to be carved on with a dremel tool to fit.

Edit: found another pic of the shock w/o spring. You can see that the bottom is pressfit and according to Rick at CD can be separated in order to rebuild/revalve.

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Old 02-11-2013, 07:04 AM   #3123
Ed@Ford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 'Flagger View Post
Yep... exhaust flanges. One had to be carved on with a dremel tool to fit.
Edit: found another pic of the shock w/o spring. You can see that the bottom is pressfit and according to Rick at CD can be separated in order to rebuild/revalve.
Damn clever! Good to know rebuild might be possible
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:50 AM   #3124
gnath9
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Scotts Damper

I just got off the phone with Scotts about getting a Damper.

The kit will NOT support Rox risers. Also to use the kit they make for the LRP you would also need to be using 7/8 bars without cross bar.
It also would NOT work with HDB's top bar mount as the Damper kit comes with the top clamp.

I have Rox risers with 1 1/8 protaper HDB set up.

They were very helpful and listened to my needs and are going to see what they can do for me using the universal set up ... just some FYI for ya.

I can update later if anybody wants.
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:35 AM   #3125
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Someone asked the other day about 17" wheels for their bike, this add is on Craigslist for CBR250 wheels, http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/mcy/3582797224.html

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Old 02-11-2013, 12:06 PM   #3126
Bob80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
Those Tractionator knobs are SERIOUS!
Very SERIOUS...look well priced too. Wonder how they fair on pavement and muddy/woods conditions?
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Old 02-11-2013, 12:19 PM   #3127
Ed@Ford
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Originally Posted by Bob80 View Post
Very SERIOUS...look well priced too. Wonder how they fair on pavement and muddy/woods conditions?
One would guess seriously squirmy on dry pavement, serious FUN in muddy/woods...and a serious ticket to have a 1:1 encounter with God on wet pavement
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:06 PM   #3128
goondock
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LED blinker wiring???

I bought a DRC led tail light and some 602DRC LED flashers http://www.wheelingc...2/24/1406.shtml
along with 2 DRC IC Relays http://www.wheelingc.../36/24/62.shtml one for the front and one for the rear. i was a bit confuesd when i ordered the lights apparently i only need resistor wires for the front and the relay for the rear.. the parts came with little to know instructions..

Electrical is not my strong suit but it cant be that hard to install this stuff. Wiring up the tail light isnt a problem but i need to make the blinkers blink at the stock tempo for inspection around here hence buying the DRC IC Relay.. I guess my question is do i just replact the stock Flasher Relay with the one i bought or do i have to wire it inline somewhere along with the stock flasher relay? also being that i have two relays where would i wire the front one in. Sorry if this is a dumb question, like i said electrical is not my strongest suit. Any help or insight would be great.

i have downloaded the Wiring diagram for the crf and highlghted the lines i will be working with just basically need to knwo where and how to install the relays?

Thanks in advance
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:15 PM   #3129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
Sure, the 13T C/S sprocket will provide performance, but at the price of buzzyness at higher speeds. If in the flatness of Nebraska you're happy with it, leave it alone. For Colorado....absolutely spend the $25 for the sprocket...AND they are easy to change. Your speedo will be off with the 13T....but save the $75 for the electronic doodad to fix it. Just go out with a friend ...or a GPS and get to know what ACTUAL 60mph is, and what indicated on the CRF speedo that equals.

Ordered the EJK from Dobek with my Veteran discount...3 days...in my mail box...done!!
Checked mine the other day and it was off 10%. That's close enought and easy to compute.
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:32 PM   #3130
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[QUOTE=bigbluecreek;20676782]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post

I broke down yesterday and ordered a new rear shock from Racetech. I liked the fact the spring and shock are fully adjustable.
By changing to the lowering link, did you have to modify the sidestand?
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:52 PM   #3131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnath9 View Post
I just got off the phone with Scotts about getting a Damper.

The kit will NOT support Rox risers. Also to use the kit they make for the LRP you would also need to be using 7/8 bars without cross bar.
It also would NOT work with HDB's top bar mount as the Damper kit comes with the top clamp.

I have Rox risers with 1 1/8 protaper HDB set up.

They were very helpful and listened to my needs and are going to see what they can do for me using the universal set up ... just some FYI for ya.

I can update later if anybody wants.



Interesting, that's exactly the opposite they told me, maybe things changed once they went into production.


I just went and did some measuring.

The Damper itself is 1 1/4 inch at the part the bars go over.

With 2" ROK risers, that leaves only 3/4" when you combine the scotts top clamp and damper, so depending on how thick the Scotts top clamp is would depend on if it will work. There's no measurement available on their site though. Maybe once someone here gets a kit they can post up how thick it is.

The other option I do believe would work would be to go to a 3" ROX ATV riser, and maybe get a flatter bar if you don't want it to go that high, personally another inch wouldn't make much of a difference to me and might even be more comfortable for dirt riding. Might look a bit like a HD with ape hangers.

http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/ca...parts_id=10013




The way it works with a HDB clamp will be that the ROK risers will be in place of the bars, lifting the bars above the Scotts top clamp and Damper mounted to it, up from the outside of the damper, then the HDB clamp goes right on top of the handlebars, mounted to the ROX riser.
It will work, just might need to use a 3" riser instead of the normal 2", depending on the thickness of the scotts top clamp. I will need a different BHD top clamp, since the one I have isn't quite wide enough, coming off a GS, but that's an easy fix.


I will not being going to a 7/8 renthal bar no matter what and when I can buy a damper I will figure it out, if nobody has already.
Where there a will, there's a way, no matter what Scott's said, since I doubt they have actually been motivated to setup a bike not their own with product they don't sell. Good, smart guys over there, I stop in now and then to buy other bits from them, but I think it still can be done, if not with a 2" riser, then a 3" one.
This is also not taking into account that you can rotate the ROX and bars back to they are not directly above the damper, so it's really unknown if it will work 2" IMO.


















goondock, there should only be one relay, replacing it with the LED relay should make both front and rear flash correctly, you will probably lose the running light function of the front with led's, but I haven't actually changed the light on our LRP and am not familiar with your products.
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:09 PM   #3132
Lost Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob80 View Post
Very SERIOUS...look well priced too. Wonder how they fair on pavement and muddy/woods conditions?


Well, in my experience they handle about the same as a D606 on pavement, wet and dry. On dry pavement I can still haul ass in the twisties just the same as on a 606, when it's wet in the mountains some extra care is needed of course.

They are not designed for mud or wet conditions be any means, supposed to be terrible in mud, they are dry desert tires. I've only been in a little slop once with them, didn't seem horrible, but I would not buy them if I didn't live/ride where I do in SoCal most often, and surely not to travel on. Pretty specific tires IMO, great for what they are made for.

They do make other types of tires though, I have the Enduro I/T (intermediate terrain) rear on now. Awesome traction, not lasting as long though since it's a softer compound. The Desert H/T Tractionator will be going back on soon my Husa, and then the LRP to see how they work.

Check out their site for their range of tires.

http://www.motoz.com.au


And for a visual reference as to riding on 606's in the twisties, here's on a loaded GS in Colorado on them, I can only imagine they performing better on a much lighter bike like the LRP.


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Old 02-11-2013, 02:34 PM   #3133
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Finally

I've read or skimmed over all 3174 posts and marked down a wealth of info on two pages listing the posts and page that I may want to refer back to some day. In the mean time, I've put on the lowered Seat Concept, Manrack and 13 tooth CS, ordered a Ricochet skidplate, new 7/8 CR highbars and grips, on the waiting list for a Service Manual and considering the Scott Stabilizer. Really enjoyed Lost Riders video in Death Valley and realized from that that for me, the bike is fine in it's stock form as I'll never ride like that.
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Old 02-11-2013, 02:58 PM   #3134
gnath9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
Interesting, that's exactly the opposite they told me, maybe things changed once they went into production.

I just went and did some measuring.

The Damper itself is 1 1/4 inch at the part the bars go over.

With 2" ROK risers, that leaves only 3/4" when you combine the scotts top clamp and damper, so depending on how thick the Scotts top clamp is would depend on if it will work. There's no measurement available on their site though. Maybe once someone here gets a kit they can post up how thick it is.

The other option I do believe would work would be to go to a 3" ROX ATV riser, and maybe get a flatter bar if you don't want it to go that high, personally another inch wouldn't make much of a difference to me and might even be more comfortable for dirt riding. Might look a bit like a HD with ape hangers.

The way it works with a HDB clamp will be that the ROK risers will be in place of the bars, lifting the bars above the Scotts top clamp and Damper mounted to it, up from the outside of the damper, then the HDB clamp goes right on top of the handlebars, mounted to the ROX riser.
It will work, just might need to use a 3" riser instead of the normal 2", depending on the thickness of the scotts top clamp. I will need a different BHD top clamp, since the one I have isn't quite wide enough, coming off a GS, but that's an easy fix.

I will not being going to a 7/8 renthal bar no matter what and when I can buy a damper I will figure it out, if nobody has already.
Where there a will, there's a way, no matter what Scott's said, since I doubt they have actually been motivated to setup a bike not their own with product they don't sell. Good, smart guys over there, I stop in now and then to buy other bits from them, but I think it still can be done, if not with a 2" riser, then a 3" one.
This is also not taking into account that you can rotate the ROX and bars back to they are not directly above the damper, so it's really unknown if it will work 2" IMO.
I remember you talking to them and basically I just called to confirm that it would in fact just bolt on. I would like the look better if the damper sat down like the sub mounts shown on other bikes. But, I did go with a low bend bar (Carmichael Bend width 31.50" height 3.00" pull back 2.17") because of the risers and most of my riding will be woods and mild MX track with my son. So a 3 inch riser would still be an option. I was also trying to stay away from needing longer cables.

It will be interesting to see what they come back with for my set up and I will be sure to share that information.
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:14 PM   #3135
Lost Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnath9 View Post
I remember you talking to them and basically I just called to confirm that it would in fact just bolt on. I would like the look better if the damper sat down like the sub mounts shown on other bikes. But, I did go with a low bend bar (Carmichael Bend width 31.50" height 3.00" pull back 2.17") because of the risers and most of my riding will be woods and mild MX track with my son. So a 3 inch riser would still be an option. I was also trying to stay away from needing longer cables.

It will be interesting to see what they come back with for my set up and I will be sure to share that information.

Right on, I'm sure with the help of the community we can figure it out.

All I really need is a Scotts top clamp because I already have the ROX and a Damper on my Husa I could test with... might just buy the mount to see, or would love it if anyone was willing to send me their for a quick test that could benefit us all...

While some of us might have differing views on some things, we're all in the CRF250L community together.
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