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Old 02-15-2013, 01:25 PM   #3256
Larry Ferguson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNC View Post
The fender shape/design is a well debated issue. While most of our later bikes are watercooled, allegedly the fender design is still something that often contributes to engine cooling. Just something to be aware of. It can also be argued that a big cake of mud splattered on the engine doesn't do any favors for engine cooling either.
I wouldnt worry too much about mud getting on the engine. Now if it gets up into the radiator ......
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:56 PM   #3257
drtdino
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Hi, I bought my crf250l a month ago and have only be able to put the three miles from the dealer to my house on it (the long way) due to the rough Chicago winters. I look forward to riding the heck out of it this spring summer and fall. I also wanted to inform all of you that I talked to a guy in the bazzaz booth at the motorcycle show that informed me that they will have a tuning device out for it, and to look for it in the next month or so.


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Old 02-15-2013, 01:58 PM   #3258
drtdino
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Also, what does "lrp" mean or stand for?


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Old 02-15-2013, 02:10 PM   #3259
SAPB
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Originally Posted by drtdino View Post
Also, what does "lrp" mean or stand for?


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L ittle
R ed
P iggy
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:35 PM   #3260
drtdino
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L ittle
R ed
P iggy
LOL!!! That is awesome...
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:09 PM   #3261
drtdino
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Here is a trailer I am building so I can haul the LRP around...
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=863408
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:54 PM   #3262
gaan
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Anyone in the socal area that has removed their rear fender with the emissions label want to part with it for a day? I'm willing to pay to borrow it so I can register my bike. Honda doesn't sell the label. Here's my bike at the DMV failing the inspection. :(
They didn't seem to care about the exhaust, just the VIN and emissions label check.

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Old 02-15-2013, 09:27 PM   #3263
gaw777
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The bars look good!
Let me know about the mount, be interested in hearing about it.
Thanks for the update

Quote:
Originally Posted by Telemarktumalo View Post
I agree that the Easton pad is a dog. I'd rather use some foam pipe insulation and zip ties. I don't know about a GPS mount, but I'll take a look at my RAM mount and see if it will fit on the left bar in board of the mirror. Here are some pics of the set up. I really like the amount of rise that these have. I'll play around a bit this weekend. I had them set rotated forward to -1 position but put them at 0 yesterday. I'm going to try at +1 tomorrow.




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Old 02-16-2013, 12:34 AM   #3264
Lost Rider
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Originally Posted by tirebiter View Post
I know I don't own a 250l, but have been riding bikes since the 60's and if you don't mind would like to shed some light on proper bar position.
What your looking for is flat, equal pressure across your palm from index to outside.
Lightly clamp your bars down so they won't move by themselves.
Rotate the bars forward and you'll find the pressure is on the outside of your palm (Last knuckle, Pinkie finger).
Then rotate the bars back towards you and you'll find all the contact pressure is on your index and thumb (Like making an OK sign, or choking a chicken)
Keep rotating forward and back till you feel the contact pressure of the bars is evenly distributed across your entire palm from index to pinky.
When you finally achieve that spot, it's time to ask yourself if your arms feel comfortable with that position.
If not and your arms are all akimbo, you got the wrong bend-
That's the rub, and the reason for so many different bends.

This of course might be accurate, if your main goal is comfort when in the seated position. For us comfort and stability is most important when in the standing position, where anyone should be most of the time when riding a DS bike off Tarmac. This procedure also could be subjective based on how fast a given rider is going and therefore how leaned forward to achieve perfect balance for where is most comfortable for them. Then you have different helmets and so on with more variables.
There is no one all process to finding the perfect position for everyone, mostly perfect balance and comfort cannot be achieved with anything less than personal experience thru trial and error IMO. MC riding is all about balance, once you learn that, then you know where your controls need to be for you, something not done in your garage, methinks.






Quote:
Originally Posted by gaan View Post
Anyone in the socal area that has removed their rear fender with the emissions label want to part with it for a day? I'm willing to pay to borrow it so I can register my bike. Honda doesn't sell the label. Here's my bike at the DMV failing the inspection. :(
They didn't seem to care about the exhaust, just the VIN and emissions label check.
Send me a PM, we live in Ventura and can work out you borrowing our fender, glad to help out. Going to be riding in the Malibu canyons this weekend...


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Old 02-16-2013, 01:21 AM   #3265
cat
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Yes, so most people pick a CR-Hi handlebar, rotate it forward enough to suit them for standing, and get used to whatever pull-back it has. If you use the adaptors to convert to fat bars, that adds more height than any of the typical bends other than the trials bars.

With a road bike, you need to avoid the bars that are much wider than stock, to avoid problems with the length of the clutch and throttle cables and wiring.

Getting the pull-back to suit you...the usual idea is to sit on the and hold out your arms to a sort of natural position and see how your wrists are, how straight or angled your wrists are. If they're quite angled, you want more pullback (many people do) then you have to look at that when comparing the handlebar specs.
When you look at the specs, comparing the different pull-backs, you see...trials bars typically very straight, less pull-back, because straighter better for standing, with more forward balance; then MX bars, then enduro bars and supermoto bars, more pull-back.

ZETA website has handlebar "simulator" that illustrates it very nicely. You select the bike (and they have the CRF250L), it displays a diagram showing the standard bar, then you select one of the ZETA bars and it superimposes the diagram for that one so you can compare.
You can see that the CRF250L bars would be quite good for most people - medium high, more pull-back than most.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:40 AM   #3266
TNC
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Originally Posted by drtdino View Post
Here is a trailer I am building so I can haul the LRP around...
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=863408
Depending on how you intend to use the trailer, you can add some options that will expand your hauling capabilities and make camping while you're out with your bike a lot more comfortable. I have a 5X8 homebuilt trailer I made in the 80's. I have the motorcycle offset to the left side and have two diamondplate truck boxes attached to the trailer on the right side in an end-to-end configuration. I call it a kind of "adventure" trailer. I strap a propane bottle to the front end of the trailer and cook off of a Coleman stove on the truck boxes. You can carry a good deal of gear and equipment in the boxes, and it's pretty darned secure in those locked boxes. I camp out in BLM and forest lands for free with my minivan, trailer, solar shower, and portapot in relative comfort. Bring along one of the more modern, efficient ice chests, and you can set up a base camp for 3-5 days and ride out an area on the bike and then move on when complete. Camping is great when you can bring enough stuff, not sleep on the ground, and cook decent food for your meals. These little trailers can make life much nicer out in the boondocks.

On the 12" tires that are available for these trailers, they basically suck. They don't last long at highway speeds. On my trailer, I found a used 13" car wheel with the same 4-bolt pattern...and if you have a 5-bolt pattern you can do the same. I then got a pair of the smallest 13" radial car tires that were a 1.55 or such. This wheel/tire is only slightly taller and fits under the fender of most 12" trailers with no issue. You can run a lower pressure of around 32psi for a better ride, and you get a tire that might rot off the wheel way before you wear it out. If you can, get rid of the 12" setup.
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Old 02-16-2013, 09:08 AM   #3267
bdolnik
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Hi everyone, first time posting on the board. Have had the CRF250L for a couple weeks now and first thing I bought for it was the Fender Eliminator Kit from Yoshimura. Just got it installed today and thought I would post a couple pics, it was pretty easy to put on, and I really like the way it looks.



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Old 02-16-2013, 09:28 AM   #3268
Lost Rider
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Originally Posted by bdolnik View Post
Hi everyone, first time posting on the board. Have had the CRF250L for a couple weeks now and first thing I bought for it was the Fender Eliminator Kit from Yoshimura. Just got it installed today and thought I would post a couple pics, it was pretty easy to put on, and I really like the way it looks.



That's a clean looking tail, and very nice photos bdolnik!

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Old 02-16-2013, 10:18 AM   #3269
trainman
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Bdolnik, your LED rear lamp kit looks great on the bike, did the holes match up on the mounting bracket, or did you have to re-drill the bracket or the bike frame to make the fit. The turn signals look like they clear the stock exhaust ok and no heat or exhausted gas should affect the turn signal. I've used the DRC LED tail lamp kit sold be Wheeling Supply on my DRZ400, but was not totally happy with the way the turn signal brackets mounded to the bracket, your bracket looks like the turn signal ears are made on the bracket. Heads up on any of the above would be appreciated, thanks, John
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:43 AM   #3270
bdolnik
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Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
and very nice photos bdolnik!
Wow, any compliment from you on photos Lost is pretty special, I'm constantly drooling over yours!

Trainman, there was no drilling, everything matched up perfectly. Simply unbolt the old one and bolt on the new one. The hardest part was cutting the existing wires, just because cutting is scary :)

The directions that come with it are very good also, step by step... was really easy to do. Here is what the factory bracket looks like when you get the fender off.


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