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Old 04-03-2013, 01:03 PM   #4171
SAPB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by topping View Post
And i had to post one with it dirty, Notice my Danish pastry waiting to be eaten on the seat

Thank goodness, no reason at all to keep the bike clean! What are those little blinkers in the rear?
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:00 PM   #4172
topping
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Quote:
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Thank goodness, no reason at all to keep the bike clean! What are those little blinkers in the rear?
The little blinkers are made from a hard rubber so they wont break when you drop the bike, I get them in the UK on ebay here is someone selling a pair. HERE
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topping screwed with this post 04-03-2013 at 02:06 PM
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:22 PM   #4173
Normsthename
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Topping
See you are located in the UK
Two questions, where did you buy the Exhaust and how loud is it for UK roads?
Any trouble from the Old Bill? (Police for our oversea friends)

Andy
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:25 PM   #4174
D-Real
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a little update

Well I passed my skills test to get my motorcycle license, still waiting on a midweek class for a rider saftey course and i went over 100 miles (138 currently).

I dropped off my bike at the local shop(not the honda dealer) to have it greased thoroughly. We got to talking about the eight thousand mile oil change that Honda suggests and he was surprised that they suggested such a long time between changes. I was too. He said that most people change their oil between one and three thousand miles.

I plan on having them do the oil change and valve check/adjustment at six hundred miles. He mentioned that ifi was planning on changing the oil more frequently that I could buy a steel oil filter instead of replacing it every time. He quoted it at fortey dollars and said it doesn't need to be replaced.

My questions are, how often should I change the oil and is the steel oil filter a good decision. I'm still at the bottom of the learning curve. Thanks for your educated opinions.
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:58 PM   #4175
kiwi5
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I have spoken with several mechanics who are not fans of the steel filters as they apperently cannot be properly cleaned after awhile. Why not just stick with a quality oil filter? They are not that expensive. As far as oil changes go- depends on the type of riding you do. If you do 80% Road with 20% casual off road I would change oil at no more than once yearly or 4-6 thousand k's. The manual says 12 thousand k's which defies logic to me. What is great is that changing the oil is only 1.5ltrs so this is not an expensive job. Personally I plan to change my oil every 4 thousand kms or once yearly, whichever comes first. If you ride off road all the time and really thrash it, then you should do oil changes much earlier, in fact you should buy a hour meter and do some research as to how many hours before oil change (look at some dirt bike forums or just google?).
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:35 AM   #4176
topping
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Normsthename View Post
Topping
See you are located in the UK
Two questions, where did you buy the Exhaust and how loud is it for UK roads?
Any trouble from the Old Bill? (Police for our oversea friends)

Andy
Hi Andy

I haven't had any problems form the police yet because its not stupidly loud like the powercore 4 that would be way too much. I got the kit form bestdualsportbikes.com it came in at about 500 quid including shipping and import duty. They even included a 13t front sprocket and a gear shifter although i haven't used the 13t sprocket yet because it will mess with my spedo clock.

I say got for it you will notice a difference in power especially if you do trail riding.

Cheers
Phil
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Old 04-04-2013, 04:00 AM   #4177
lloydpb
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Hi Phil,
Another UKite here.

I collect mine on Saturday - hoping for a dry day!
Did you get the HDB handguards and mount from the US or does anyone sell them in the UK?

Also what bash plate is that?
Thanks
Lloyd.
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Old 04-04-2013, 11:46 AM   #4178
topping
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lloydpb View Post
Hi Phil,
Another UKite here.

I collect mine on Saturday - hoping for a dry day!
Did you get the HDB handguards and mount from the US or does anyone sell them in the UK?

Also what bash plate is that?
Thanks
Lloyd.
Hi Lloyd

You can only get the HDB products from the USA direct from the manufacture.

Highway Dirtbikes
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Old 04-04-2013, 03:20 PM   #4179
kiwi5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by topping View Post
Hi Andy

I haven't had any problems form the police yet because its not stupidly loud like the powercore 4 that would be way too much. I got the kit form bestdualsportbikes.com it came in at about 500 quid including shipping and import duty. They even included a 13t front sprocket and a gear shifter although i haven't used the 13t sprocket yet because it will mess with my spedo clock.

I say got for it you will notice a difference in power especially if you do trail riding.

Cheers
Phil
Hi Phil - I highly recommend installing your 13T, I have checked with my GPS and the odomoter will read 8.4% high and the speedometer reads 117kph when it is actually doing 100kph. I plan to change my oil every 4,000kms so the additional 8.4% has no bearing (seeing as factory recommendation is every 12K!!) you will love the 13T- try it out!
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Old 04-04-2013, 04:38 PM   #4180
pandamanprod
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Crf250L Tall Riser Setup

First time pics of my CRFL, Loving this bike.

I did not find too many posts on max riser height, so I'm throwing this in the mix. I was able to use Rox 3.5 Inch Risers with Protaper EVO KX High 1 1/8 inch bars. The results are probably an effective 4 Inches of height added, plus I was able to reposition the bars about an inch and a half forward, which eases up the cockpit when I'm riding very far forward on the bike. I'm 6' 3" and this setup is perfect. The bars make it much easier for handlebar accessories, and the setup takes up all the slack (with just a little spare) of the cables, making everything really clean. I had to dremel off the Kill / Lamp control pegs, but other than that, everything went on nicely. See pics for how I routed the cables. Again this is (what I consider) to be the Max Riser height available, with stock throttle and clutch cables.







Other than that Mods are, Pro taper 1/18 inch bars, Rox Risers, Acerbis guards. Galfer Brake lines (huge improvement over stock) Garmin Montana + Mount, Best Dual Sport bikes Stage 01 Kit - (Exhaust + Programmer + Front Sprocket, Drastic improvement) Airbox mods. Speedo DRD Calibration Kit, Seat concepts Seat (best mod on the bike). Flatland racing Skit plate, Generic Rear Rack, Yoshimura Fender Eliminator Kit. New Folding Shift Lever.

I have a Full race tech suspension set up and the IMS 3.1 Tank on order. I love this thing. I'll swap to Either MT21 Dunlop 606 tires in the next 1k Miles.

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Old 04-04-2013, 05:43 PM   #4181
Okie03
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Question for you guys: I'm looking at upgrading my handlebars on my 250L. I actually just bought it last Friday. I was looking on Motorcycle Superstore last night, but they don't list our bikes on their website. Will the Pro Taper handlebars that fit the CRF250R fit our bikes? I was ready to order, but was afraid I'd get a handlebar that wouldn't work. Thanks for your help!
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:01 PM   #4182
Lost Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pandamanprod View Post
First time pics of my CRFL, Loving this bike.




Cool!

Nice bike.


Looks to me like the Scott's Damper will fit nicely under those risers, any chance you could measure the width of the bolt pattern for us to use to get the right HDB top clamp?




Okie,

Welcome to the forum and congrats on your new bike!

The LRP comes with 7/8" bars so in order to change bars you either need to get 7/8" bars or get a riser/adaptor so you can use 1 1/8" bars that are more common and stronger. I don't know for sure but I'd hope that the CRF250R comes with 1 1/8" bars...
For example ProTaper Contour KX High, the bars we have are 1 1/8 bars so an adaptor was needed. I like ROX since they are adjustable, but there's others here with various risers that work for them. Our 2 1/2" ROX risers the OEM cables worked just fine. Most people can benefit from having risers and bars with less rearward sweep to be comfortable in a standing position, where we should be when riding on dirt, and stronger bars wont bend when you fall like the OEM ones.
Pick your poison.

It's a big thread, but there's many examples of bars and risers being used on the CRF250L if you dig around.
There's my setup and what it will take to swap bars in this thread, plus instructions of how to really search this forum for CRF250L bits:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=859691

Good luck!
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:30 PM   #4183
Vzuke
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Handle bar question.

I was just wondering about handle bars also. I happen to have a Protaper Contour bar in the garage (from another project). It has Pastrana FMX/ATV Race on it. I got this particular bar because it was the tallest I could find at the time. I compared it to my Suzuki DRZ Fat bar and it looks similar.

To answer Okie03's question, If you want to get a FATBAR (1 1/8") you need to also get a mount adapter.



I found a sliver Moose racing one after a quick search. Pro Taper makes one but it is black. The cool thing about the Moose one is you can get different heights.

The bottom half bolts to the molded lower mount on the CRF250L triple tree and now you have a Fatbar mount. Slap the bar in and then put the top clamp on.

I was was wondering if I had enough cable slack to mount my handle bar but after seeing pandamanprod set up I think I'm safe! Those Rox risers look TALL. The bars look similar to the one I have.
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:05 PM   #4184
EEKAMOUSE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost Rider View Post
Cool!

Nice bike.


Looks to me like the Scott's Damper will fit nicely under those risers, any chance you could measure the width of the bolt pattern for us to use to get the right HDB top clamp?




Okie,

Welcome to the forum and congrats on your new bike!

The LRP comes with 7/8" bars so in order to change bars you either need to get 7/8" bars or get a riser/adaptor so you can use 1 1/8" bars that are more common and stronger. I don't know for sure but I'd hope that the CRF250R comes with 1 1/8" bars...
For example ProTaper Contour KX High, the bars we have are 1 1/8 bars so an adaptor was needed. I like ROX since they are adjustable, but there's others here with various risers that work for them. Our 2 1/2" ROX risers the OEM cables worked just fine. Most people can benefit from having risers and bars with less rearward sweep to be comfortable in a standing position, where we should be when riding on dirt, and stronger bars wont bend when you fall like the OEM ones.
Pick your poison.

It's a big thread, but there's many examples of bars and risers being used on the CRF250L if you dig around.
There's my setup and what it will take to swap bars in this thread, plus instructions of how to really search this forum for CRF250L bits:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=859691

Good luck!
Holy risers barman lol

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:09 PM   #4185
pandamanprod
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vzuke View Post
I was was wondering if I had enough cable slack to mount my handle bar but after seeing pandamanprod set up I think I'm safe! Those Rox risers look TALL. The bars look similar to the one I have.
Just wanted to point out your limiting factor are the electrical cables running from your Killswitch and turnsignal / horn controls. If you look at the profile pic of my rox's you'll see I swiveled them forward so they look vertical coming off the bike, If I did not do that, They would not fit. As long as you take that into account you should be okay. Next up is re-routing the clutch cable (in my route pattern it will appear to be super bunched up in a hard right turn, but it's fine) as well as routing the throttle so it comes off the bottom of your grip.
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