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Old 05-14-2013, 09:20 AM   #4756
lloydpb
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Joined: Feb 2007
Location: UK
Oddometer: 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by SAPB View Post
http://www.hondapartsnation.com/oemp...38/turn-signal

Could take the one off the other side to a hardware store.
Thanks but the fixing screw is not shown on that fiche, although you can see it in the back of the light assembly.

I just went to a fastener store who have never failed me in the past, with a screw of another turnlight but they dont have anything like it - it has a collar at the end. I can see a bodge comimg on...!

Lloyd.
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:52 AM   #4757
Auto-X Fil
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Location: Montrose, PA.
Oddometer: 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by sundey_rider View Post
Hmm, any hints for a noob how to recognise those rpms from the engine noise alone, without a tach?
Here are the road speeds for each gear at 9,000 rpm, assuming stock tire and gearing. These make great shift points for max acceleration. For more relaxed driving you'll usually feel like shifting well before that point. I would say that I usually shift at around 6-7k.

Code:
1	2	3	4	5
25.6	40.3	54.3	65.4	76.5
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Old 05-14-2013, 11:10 AM   #4758
sundey_rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Auto-X Fil View Post
Here are the road speeds for each gear at 9,000 rpm, assuming stock tire and gearing. These make great shift points for max acceleration. For more relaxed driving you'll usually feel like shifting well before that point. I would say that I usually shift at around 6-7k.

Code:
1	2	3	4	5
25.6	40.3	54.3	65.4	76.5
Thank you very much! I assume those are in km/h?
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:42 PM   #4759
Ultima
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This works great, easy installation

http://www.crfsonly.com/catalog/prod...oducts_id/3713

Did it like Ramz http://rickramsey.net/CRF250Lmods.htm#hourtachmeter

Good to see, even in the sun

Idle is at 1440 rpm, shifting at ~ 8500 is ok.
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:44 PM   #4760
Willwilkins
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Location: Was Oz, now London
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Fuel tank

Hi chaps

No sign of that big fuel tank yet then?

Cheers
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So I didn't worry and it did get worse!

My biggest ride yet. Oz to UK. Read all about it here
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Old 05-14-2013, 03:03 PM   #4761
Harcomo
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Throttle tube/new grip installation



I'm getting prepared for a new bar/grip installation later in the week and have remove the grip from the throttle tube. The original grip came right off, no glue to be found. I'm installing Pro Taper Pillow Top grips and am wondering if I need to remove the nubs from the face of the tube and I'm assuming I need to remove the flange at the top in the pic above so the new grip will fit on all the way against the switchgear. For those of you who have replaced grips, what was your method putting them on the stock throttle tube? A dremel would probably work fine but it seems that removing the tube and taking it to a bench grinder might be better. If that's the case, somebody needs to guide me in the easiest way to remove the throttle cables from the tube so I can do it that way. The cables don't have much slack and I'm not sure how the best way is to remove them from the slots that hold them in. Just looking for a little guidance before I butcher something that I don't need to.
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Old 05-14-2013, 03:16 PM   #4762
Auto-X Fil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sundey_rider View Post
Thank you very much! I assume those are in km/h?
Nope, those are mph. Here is 9,000 rpm in the first five gears in kmph:

Code:
1	2 	3	4	5
41.2	64.8	87.4	105.3	123.1
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Old 05-14-2013, 04:21 PM   #4763
sundey_rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Auto-X Fil View Post
Nope, those are mph. Here is 9,000 rpm in the first five gears in kmph:

Code:
1	2 	3	4	5
41.2	64.8	87.4	105.3	123.1
Ok, I will have to try this out... the highest speed I ever shifted from 1st gear was around 27km/h, and at that point the bike already sounds like a jet plane. If what you say is correct, it means that it can be revved much higher then I ever tried. And I never did it because the engine gets simply unbearably loud compared to 'normal' (e.g. while cruising at 50 km/h in 5th gear). Is the extreme noise level expected or is there something wrong with my bike?

Edit: or maybe your calculations are not taking the weight of the rider into account?

sundey_rider screwed with this post 05-14-2013 at 04:29 PM
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Old 05-14-2013, 07:41 PM   #4764
Auto-X Fil
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Location: Montrose, PA.
Oddometer: 595
The weight of the rider doesn't have anything to do with it. The ideal shift points are the same for all riders, as everyone wants to maximize the power to the wheel.

Note that these are numbers for max acceleration. It's an academic exercise for the most part. If you're happy shifting lower, then shift lower!

If you want to see how high the engine can go, just rev it out. Grab second gear, and hold the thing to redline (60kmph+). Eventually it will just stop accelerating, as there is a rev limiter to protect the engine. You can hold it wide-open against the limiter for as long as you want with no worry about damaging the engine, although I'm sure your ears and butt will have you back off soon.
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:34 PM   #4765
Charleston
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Location: Charleston, SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harcomo View Post

I'm getting prepared for a new bar/grip installation later in the week and have remove the grip from the throttle tube. The original grip came right off, no glue to be found. I'm installing Pro Taper Pillow Top grips and am wondering if I need to remove the nubs from the face of the tube and I'm assuming I need to remove the flange at the top in the pic above so the new grip will fit on all the way against the switchgear. For those of you who have replaced grips, what was your method putting them on the stock throttle tube? A dremel would probably work fine but it seems that removing the tube and taking it to a bench grinder might be better. If that's the case, somebody needs to guide me in the easiest way to remove the throttle cables from the tube so I can do it that way. The cables don't have much slack and I'm not sure how the best way is to remove them from the slots that hold them in. Just looking for a little guidance before I butcher something that I don't need to.

I installed those grips and used a dremel with a small sanding drum to remove the nubs. I didn’t remove the flange but that’s probably a good idea. At that time I installed hand guards and had to cut the ends off the grips and the throttle tube so I just pushed the grip up to the flange.
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Old 05-14-2013, 08:53 PM   #4766
Charleston
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Location: Charleston, SC
Oddometer: 86
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon805 View Post
uh oh. This has happened to me 3 times now. I'm in fifth gear, around 2/3 throttle, and out of nowhere the bike starts skipping in gear. The revs will jump up and then catch, jump up and then catch . Does it about 3 times... I haven't done anything crazy on the bike, nothing of note to warrant the behavior. Any tips on what to look at?? I'm going to the BMW rally in mariposa next week accompanied by some day rides to yosemite and hetch hetchy, and I surely do not want to find myself dead on the road. I'll say again, UH OH.

It's only occurred a few times now, but I'm about ready to go back to the dealer and start ripping heads off.

I've only got 3340 miles, and have been very regular with maintenance.
You might check the clutch freeplay. The clutch has a judder spring and one undersized friction plate and can slip pretty easily. Mine clutch cable came too tight and caused the clutch to slip and the engine to rev up under load until I adjusted the cable freeplay.
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Old 05-15-2013, 05:12 AM   #4767
SAPB
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Location: Rhode Island
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Hyperpro

A while ago, someone in Europe (Holland maybe?) posted about this, and I sent an inquiry to the US distributor, which is in NJ. I kind of forgot about it, and it went into my "junk", and I almost deleted it. I thought it looked slick, because they had the adjustable thing sticking out the left side next to the throttle body. You have to give them a bunch of info such as weight, and % of time with gear, passenger, off road, ect. Not sure what's up with ship cost to Israel, I told him the zip code where it was going.

Hi Eric,

I am sorry for the late reply, but Hyperpro did not have all the data ready to offer the shock for sale, but here it is now.



Thank you for your interest in the Hyperpro shocks for the CRF 250.

Yes, we can supply you with a new set of shocks for the CRF 250 of 2013. The shocks will be build to your specs. and weights. Please see detailed quote below.



The shocks come as either emulsion shock, with remote reservoir or

fixed or articulated piggy back reservoir.

The shock is called the " 3 D " model.

The available features are rebound damping, high and low speed

compression damping, ride height or length adjuster and remote pre-load

adjuster.



Please check our web site for more details, models and other

available products at www.epmperf.com



The Hyperpro shock has some advantages over other products

on the marketplace today.



--- It has a 16 mm shaft which is not only sturdier, but also displaces

more oil in the compression stroke so that you can regulate the compression

and rebound damping better.



--- The shocks have a new seal design which has been proven in tough

MOTO-cross competition use and showed that it is far better than others when

it comes to leakers.



--- The Hyperpro " 3 D " shock utilizes the "Bladder" technology when it

comes to separate the oil from nitrogen gas. Other manufacturers utilize a

floating piston. A floating piston always has to overcome stiction first

before it begins to move. A rubber bladder does not "know" what friction or

stiction is and therefore reacts smoother and quicker to pressure changes.



--- The Hyperpro shocks come with a progressive spring to ensure a compliant

ride and to prevent bottoming out under load.



The shocks do come with a purple spring.

A black spring is an alternative at +$10.00/spring.



Front:

Hyperpro progressive = rising rate fork springs with fork oil at $ 159.00





Rear shock: Model 460 = $ 619.00

with adjustable rebound damping



Rear shock: Model 461 = $ 959.00

with adjustable rebound damping, with remote reservoir

and high and low speed compression damping.



Optional for all rear shocks:

HPA = Hydraulic Pre-Load adjuster (remote) = $ 269.00



Warranty = 5 years

All new shock purchases come with a “FREE” 1st service coupon.

The service is recommended between 25-30,000 miles.

The coupon is issued with the shock serial number and it is transferable to a new owner.



Delivery time : approx. 2 weeks to us from the factory plus shipping time to Israel.

S&H to Israel via Priority Mail trough the postal mail service at approx. $ 100.00



Please call the office in NJ at 732-786-9777 with your questions and/or order.



Thank you for the support of our business, we are looking forward serving

you.



Regards



Klaus Huenecke

EPM Performance Imports

Email: info@epmperf.com

Phone/ Fax: 732-786-9777

www.epmperf.com
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SAPB screwed with this post 05-15-2013 at 05:22 AM
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:51 AM   #4768
goldham
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Joined: Mar 2013
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Oddometer: 18
RDC Tail Light With Turn Signal Mounts

Does anyone have some info on where to buy this tail light set up?

http://www.drcproducts.com/elect/d45...ndex_crfl.html

I've searched high and low on here and google trying to find it but only come up with the integrated turn signal/brake light kit that removes the stock turn signals. I am a safety nut and would like to keep the stock signals and then upgrade to LEDs once the stockers break off.

Thanks for the help guys! This thread is what made me buy the LRP.
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:32 AM   #4769
trainman
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Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Oddometer: 392
Wheeling Cycle Supply

https://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/.../13/1368.shtml

Excellent people to deal with, have purchased several items from them, I did look on their website and did not see it as pictured, they are a DRC dealer and I would call them, I would think they would have it, just not on the website yet.

John

trainman screwed with this post 05-16-2013 at 11:38 AM
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:43 AM   #4770
goldham
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Location: Bakersfield, CA
Oddometer: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by trainman View Post
Wheeling Cycle Supply

https://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/.../13/1368.shtml

Excellent people to deal with, have purchased several items from them, I did look on their website and did not see it as pictured, they are a DRC dealer and I would call them, I would think they would have it, just not on the website yet.

John
Thanks trainman! Found it on their website.

https://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/...ht-from-drc/17

Looks like I'm out of luck for the time being. I'm going to give them a call and see if they have an ETA on it.
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