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Old 11-28-2012, 06:45 AM   #1171
taninthai
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goondock View Post
I paid $300 total, would have rather paid $225.
wow for the first service i paid 400 bht thats 8 gbp.......
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Old 11-28-2012, 06:58 AM   #1172
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Nice pictures, video and writeup Lost Rider.. good stuff. wish I had trails like that near me ha ha ha.
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:10 AM   #1173
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Originally Posted by MrFurious View Post
With that thought in mind, has anyone measured the outside diameter of their fork tubes directly where the tree's clamp onto them? I know the `05 CRF450's 47mm Showa forks are approximately 53mm at the top clamp and 58mm at the bottom clamp, and the clamps are spaced 18.5cm apart. I would imagine the newer 48mm KYB forks are right in the same ballpark. Just curious if the forks from any of the MX or more race oriented off-road models would be a direct fit to save on the expense of custom tree's.
It might be more appropriate to find shops that work on Kawasaki MX forks. Kawi seems to have the forks with valving in one leg and spring on the other like the CRF. I'm guessing a "gold-valve like" accessory or the Intiminator in the fork doesn't really care if they are working solo, or "with a buddy".
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:17 AM   #1174
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Why a Damper for the bike? What benefits will it add to this bike?
As far as a mod's list, how high of a priority would it be?
If so, which one?

Thanks

BTW: Thanks for the write up Lost Ride, great vid!
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:18 AM   #1175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrFurious View Post
.

With that thought in mind, has anyone measured the outside diameter of their fork tubes directly where the tree's clamp onto them? I know the `05 CRF450's 47mm Showa forks are approximately 53mm at the top clamp and 58mm at the bottom clamp, and the clamps are spaced 18.5cm apart. .
My measurements:
Upper = 54
Lower = 57

Yes, 1mm off (in opposite directions) on each from the forks on it's big brothers. Didn't measure the gap.
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:32 AM   #1176
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Originally Posted by gaw777 View Post
Why a Damper for the bike? What benefits will it add to this bike?
In general, for any fork made to a price (low in the case of CRF and my KLR650) a gold valve or an Intiminator are a massive improvement. I especially like the Intiminator in my KLR because it provides some anti dive....very nice on a bike with reasonably long front travel that is street ridden....and this bike appears to be a very nice street ride
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:42 AM   #1177
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With that thought in mind, has anyone measured the outside diameter of their fork tubes directly where the tree's clamp onto them? I know the `05 CRF450's 47mm Showa forks are approximately 53mm at the top clamp and 58mm at the bottom clamp, and the clamps are spaced 18.5cm apart.
See this page from Nov 7:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...823409&page=57
post #852.
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:43 AM   #1178
MrFurious
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Originally Posted by 'Flagger View Post
My measurements:
Upper = 54
Lower = 57

Yes, 1mm off (in opposite directions) on each from the forks on it's big brothers. Didn't measure the gap.
One could easily make shims for the upper clamp, but hard to say if the lower has enough meat to be bored out 1mm and still retain sufficient strength.
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:47 AM   #1179
roundtripping
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed@Ford View Post
In general, for any fork made to a price (low in the case of CRF and my KLR650) a gold valve or an Intiminator are a massive improvement. I especially like the Intiminator in my KLR because it provides some anti dive....very nice on a bike with reasonably long front travel that is street ridden....and this bike appears to be a very nice street ride
I think he's asking about the steering damper.
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Old 11-28-2012, 08:55 AM   #1180
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Originally Posted by ramz View Post
See this page from Nov 7:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...823409&page=57
post #852.
Wow, how'd I miss that chart?
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:01 AM   #1181
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Duplicate post - DB Error
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:13 AM   #1182
gaw777
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Originally Posted by roundtripping View Post
I think he's asking about the steering damper.
Yes I was, sorry about that
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:18 AM   #1183
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Deleted: Duplicate post - DB error
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:28 AM   #1184
Lost Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaw777 View Post
Why a Damper for the bike? What benefits will it add to this bike?
As far as a mod's list, how high of a priority would it be?
If so, which one?

Thanks

BTW: Thanks for the write up Lost Ride, great vid!


Thanks!

The video is supposed to be a little funny and referring to CRFL as the LRP is out of love. I've ridden a BRP ( well known as the Big Red Pig XR650R) in Baja and it is a Big Red Pig compared.

Anyways, glad you like.

As for steering damper, it's been my experience that all bikes, road and dirt, benefit from a steering damper, and getting one for the CRFL is high on my list. Top of the list after protection for the bike.
Kits are supposed to be available in 2-3 weeks, the CRFL kist will use a clamp on stem not a weld on and a top clamp damper mount. After talking with the guys at Scott's, it seems my ROX risers and HDB top clamp will be compatible with it.If it wasn't, the Scott's would get mounted and I'd work around everything else to have it there.
The nice thing about a steering damper is the main cost is the damper itself and once you have it, you can just take it with you to the next bike.

Here's what Scott's says in a more elegant way than I will about their damper, and I'd have to completely agree. It's the first place to start for me when wanting to improve overall handling in any situation, and mine have saved me from crashing countless times.



What is a Scotts Steering Stabilizer?
It is a compact, fully adjustable, hydraulic shock absorbing damper that mounts to your steering head area right above your handlebar mount. By helping to stabilize the front end of your motorcycle, the rear of the motorcycle will track straighter allowing the rest of your suspension to work the way it was designed to. In addition, the Scotts Steering Stabilizer eliminates that sudden "thrust" affect of having the handlebars pulled from your hands after unknowingly hitting something unforeseen like rocks, tree roots or rain ruts. It has also helps to minimize rider fatigue and the dreaded arm-pumping situation that occurs while wrestling the front end of your bike. Once mounted, it dramatically reduces the unwanted phenomenon known as "Head-shake" that is commonly found on ALL off-road production motorcycles. This is more predominant now a-days due to the steeper head angles you find on production bikes. It helps keep your motorcycle going straight in the whoops and smoothes out those rough sections by preventing those handlebar wrenching jolts.

How does it work?
Basically, it operates under the same principle as your front forks. Valving inside the unit reacts to the slightest of jolts that are transferred through the forks and crowns of your motorcycle. Internal circuitry and hydraulic valving readjusts the amount of shock that would have been received through your handlebars. The link arm, which connects the stabilizer to the frame, reacts instantaneously, absorbing any unwanted movement. Your suspension was designed to handle the vertical movement of your motorcycle, while the Scotts Stabilizer completes your suspension package by controlling the unwanted lateral movement.

Where does the Stabilizer work best?
Anywhere there are forces trying to push or pull the front end left to right. If you ride in the desert, our Stabilizer will soon become your best friend. You will find that it almost completely eliminates the head-shake and instability you get while riding on washboard fire-roads, rocky sections and in high speed sand washes. It helps keep your motorcycle straight in the whoops. In the woods, it's a dream come true. Sharp edged rocks and tree roots that send a shock all the way up to your jawbone are reduced to minor disturbances that allows your suspension to work the way it was intended to. Motocrossers will find the Scotts Steering Stabilizer definitely provides the winning edge by reducing rider fatigue and working with you near the end of long Moto. Your bike will track straighter through the stutter bumps, big rollers and sweeping turns while assuring secure landings at the end of big doubles or tabletops. Being infinitely adjustable, there is no reason not to use it. It has no disadvantages!




http://www.scottsonline.com/scotts.php
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Old 11-28-2012, 11:14 AM   #1185
Earthscape
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bake View Post
Stock piston. This engine has about 200 miles.

...

stock iron bore



Wow, from that picture I would have guessed that there isn't much room to grow the bore (thinking about the bore size increase on the KLX351). If Bill can get 300+cc from that, it would be great. (Tell him not to stop making the KLX351 kit though.) A big bore kit on a small bike is such a great way to go - more torque all over without adding any weight.

As for cooling capacity, I remember people were concerned with that on the KLX351 kit too. I never noticed any difference in running temperature on mine (kit #11). At some level, since you may be running at lower RPMs with the larger bore due to the increase in low-end power, there may be less heat generated (slower piston, valves, means less friction, less heat). Of course that doesn't apply if you're just holding the throttle wide open.
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