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Old 03-10-2013, 12:11 AM   #1
Trygstad OP
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: SOCAL
Oddometer: 19
Two beemers head to BC / a beemer and a Ural head to BC

Little late in writing up this Report... Took a 16 day trip in August from Los Angles to Nakusp BC and back.

The Riders and Bikes...

Cris on his 2003 BMW F650CS

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Cris on his 2008 Ural Gear Up

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and Me Dan on my 2009 F800GS

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In case you are wondering, there are not two guys named Cris with hi-vis jackets who made this trip, but more on that in a minute....

The planned route...

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Approximently 4000 miles...

Plan is to make up some miles the first few days heading out the I-15 though Vegas and Salt Lake City and then to take some time going though the Grand Tetons, Yellowstone NP, Glacier NP and in to Waterton Lakes AB. From Waterton head up to Nakusp BC for the BC Beemers annual Rally. From Nakusp the plan is to head to Port Townsend WA and then down the Coast towards home. Cris and I heard about the rally in Nakusp the year before at the BMW rally in John Day Oregon.

The John Day trip the year before had been a great trip for both Cris and I. Cris won a set of tires in a raffle at the rally and I had picked out my next motorcycle the F800GS.

During the past year Cris had been riding his CS sparingly to save those new tires he won. I purchased a set of Heidenau K60's because I had heard some wonderful things about the kind of mileage people were getting out of them and because I did not want to have to change a tire mid trip.
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:46 AM   #2
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Looks like a great trip...!

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Old 03-10-2013, 11:49 AM   #3
Trygstad OP
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: SOCAL
Oddometer: 19
Day 0 Los Angles to Acton CA and back.....

Cris and I decided to leave work around 11 am. He had been packed for weeks in excitement for the trip, we had both be over our bikes preparing for the trip...

New tires check
Oil change check
Valve adjustment check
Chain / belt adjustment check
New gas tank to replace the cracked on on the F800
New HID lights on both bikes (better to be seen!)

The bikes were primed and ready to go....or so we thought. About 45 minutes in to the trip we were rolling up the CA-14 almost to Acton when Cris' bike started to slow down. I zoomed passed him and once i realized that he just wasn't adjusting a mirror or tying his shoe I pulled over in front of him.

As he slowed down and pulled off the side of the road, his rear wheel locked up and he skidded to a stop! Granted it was only at 10 to 15 mph when the wheel locked up but he did an awesome job of keeping that bike rubber side down coming to a stop.

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The rear wheel bearing had seized in the hub!

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Cris reminded me as i was writing this..."Its a sealed unit" Not something you can grease. The guy is the king of maintenance and his cars and bikes are immaculate. With the mono swing arm you dont even feel the bearing when you replace tires. Cris had taken out towing on his bike a few days before in preparation for the trip...Good thing. He called the insurance company and they told us there would be a truck there in 45 minutes, good thing it was only 105 degrees out.

Waiting for the tow truck we called our local BMW shop to see if they had any bearings in stock, thinking that once we got the bike back home we could change them out and get back on the road. No such luck with the parts, apparently there were a few different bearings used in these years....great. The shop said they could look at the bike in about a week......thanks for the help guys.

Waiting for the tow truck turned in to a nightmare....they did not show up until 4 hours after we made the initial call, kept telling us they would be there in 20 minutes every time we called. We went though our water supplies on the bikes so I made a run down to a gas station to grab some more water. Made it home around 5 pm, I had some awesome heat rash bumps, drank about 2 gallons of water and tried to think about what we were going to do.

Odometer for the day: Dan 100 miles, Cris 100 miles (50 on the back of a flatbed)

[IMG] photo Day0.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 03-10-2013, 12:25 PM   #4
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Location: Alberta, Canada
Oddometer: 924
shitty luck, I would suggest Creston up the East side of Kootenay Lake and jumping on the ferry. Then New Denver to Kaslo is a must ride. My two favorite roads in the Kootenays right there.
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:19 PM   #5
Trygstad OP
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: SOCAL
Oddometer: 19
Day 1 Topanga to Tonopah

After our Epic fail on Day 0 we came home and had decisions to make. Luckily we had a few extra bikes in the shed to choose from, since the F650CS was out of commission (had to get a whole new eccentric shaft housing for the swing-arm.

Contents of the stable between Cris and I....

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So that is pretty representative of what we had at the time - the KLR and + a ninja 650R.

The Ninja was probably set up best for the trip but it needed a new front tire, defiantly would not have made the trip. It had givi cases all the way around. here is pic from the john day trip a year ago..

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Cris had just purchased the 2008 Ural about a month before and had purchased some new tires online and just got them in two days before. He decided he was going to give it a go on the three wheeler.

Cris got up at 4 am and started to move the luggage from his bmw over to the Ural. I got out of bed as soon as my Gf would let me and helped him change out two of the tires. This went a lot better than our first attempt at changing a tire on a CRF 150 where we pinched the tube 3 or 4 or 5 times but who's counting.

We were packed up and ready for the road around 10 am..

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As we passed that dread-full off ramp on the 14 where we spent 4 hours the day before we both shook our fist and were on our way

First stop was in the Mojave desert (Primo burgers) I got a lime slushy cause it was effin hot out again 105 +.

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We continued up the 395 towards Bishop again hot as a mother but we were on the road and our journey had started!

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It kept looking like we were going to run in to a thunderstorm, I could not wait , anything to get out of the heat for a bit.

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Just North and East of Bishop the clouds opened up and we got some rain, went from 106 to 68 degrees! Best goosebumps I have ever had!!!

Just past the rain we stopped for our first state line crossing, we try to get pictures at everyone but sometimes Cris (like his bike) is a little air-head so we missed a few.

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We continued heading NE on the Grand Army of the Republic Highway (6) all the way through Tonapah NV where we stopped and grabbed some dinner, Cris caught a rainbow

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The plan was to make it to Tonopah for the day, but we still had some daylight left so we decided to push on. It got dark before we knew it, we stopped a few times to check the map for a campground. What we found was a roadside rest where we set up camp for the night. We were exhausted, 500 miles at speeds no greater than 58 mph, going down hill, with a tail wind, make for long days. There were a few times where i had thought about pushing or pulling Cris up some of the hills.

Our camp

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Odometer: Day: 500 Miles....Trip Total: 500 Miles


[IMG] photo Day1.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 03-10-2013, 07:13 PM   #6
Trygstad OP
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: SOCAL
Oddometer: 19
Day 2 Tonopah to Bridger National Forest WY

Woke up early to the sounds of 18 wheelers passing by, I could not get Bob Seger's "turn the page" out of my head lol. Here is what our camp looked like in the daylight...

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And the long and lonesome highway..

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Just before Ely NV we found some abandoned buildings and had to check them out.

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We ate breakfast in Ely, and met a nice couple on a Harley who were on their way back from a coast to coast trip. I told Cris I need more time off. We also met a kid on a KLR who looked like he had been on the road for a year, chain was loose, bike was zip-tied together etc... We asked him how long he had been on the road for, his answer, "10 minutes" lol. But he was heading to do a loop around Utah. I remember Cris saying he would not take that thing out of town, amazing how much abuse those KLR's will take.

More long and lonesome highway...

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And since we had some Steel horses (staying with the Seger theme) we had to get a pic at the pony express crossing.

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We had lunch in West Wendover NV, there were lots of cars there for speed week so we decided to take a quick swing by the salt flats. But first we had to try and get a pic at the state line.

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Here is us at Bonneville

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Cris wanted to make a run at the Land speed record but i told him that he had to be-able to pass a semi first

We continued on through Salt Lake City and had dinner in Logan UT. Because we still had some light we decided to push on.....again...I think i should invest in a clear face shield when I go on trips with Cris and his Ural again.

The 89 in to Bear Lake was a really nice road and we hit it just as the sun went down. In the little town of Garden City there were 3 ice cream shops with over 100 people at each of them....not much to do in a small town I guess.

We didnt miss the Idaho crossing

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It was really getting dark and we finally found a campground just into Wyoming in the Bridger National Forest. It was one of the most interesting campground I have ever been in (and im from Michigan) lol. It looked like there was people living full time at one end of the campground. Cris found one site with a wadded up tent next to a creek and a lantern left on the table. We did not choose that site but one two down.

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So Cris says right before i fall asleep, "I am going to go and poke that wadded up tent in the morning and see if there is a dead body in it". WTF dude! why did you say that right before I [U]tried[U] to fall asleep. Needless to say I did not sleep that well at night lol. I did check the tent in the morning. No dead body thats a good thing.

Odometer: Day 520 miles Trip: 1020


[IMG] photo day2.jpg[/IMG]

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Old 03-10-2013, 07:36 PM   #7
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Great start guys......I'm in
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:43 PM   #8
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Joined: Jul 2011
Location: British Columbia Canada
Oddometer: 437
A must do.

Originally Posted by pne View Post
shitty luck, I would suggest Creston up the East side of Kootenay Lake and jumping on the ferry. Then New Denver to Kaslo is a must ride. My two favorite roads in the Kootenays right there.


Depending on the weather, this is a must do.

I was there last fall and did the Kaslo- New Denver route in both directions and back again, it's classic.

Enjoy your trip.
1995 R100 GSPD
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:11 PM   #9
Trygstad OP
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: SOCAL
Oddometer: 19
Day 3 Birdger NF to the north end of Yellowstone NP

So after I checked for the body (Thanks Cris) we got back on the road. Cris carried and extra 5 gallons of gas 2.5 in the ural's jerry can and another 2.5 gallons in a portable can. We tested the range of the Ural that morning when Cris ran out of gas rolling up a hill outside of Afton WY. We stopped in Afton and had the best steak and egg breakfast. Every car in the parking lot was a pickup truck and every truck had a dog in the back of kind of town. After breakfast Cris went to open the trunk on his side car and could not get it open. His clothes had shifted and got in the way of the lock. We tipped the bike up on its side to free up some room....That brought some funny looks hahahaha.

Had to take a picture in the center of Afton...

[IMG] photo IMG_1084.jpg[/IMG]

After breakfast we headed in to Jackson. Cris' bike was running a bit ruff and he wanted to look for some iridium plugs for his bike. We stopped at the hoback market and there was a U of M truck, GO BLUE!

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From Jackson our next stop was at Jackson Lake Lodge to see an old friend from back home. Trent is a great guy and a good friend. Best bartender @ the Blue Heron bar

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After visiting with Trent for awhile we headed on through the Tetons. There were some pretty big fires in Utah so the view was not to spectacular, oh well reason to go back :)

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We passed the Continental divide, I am going to do the divide trail one of these years!

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And made it to Yellowstone!

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Yellowstone Lodge blew me away...

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We took some time to see the ole faithful and some of the other thermal features :)

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We stopped in a few of the campgrounds in the park but all of them were full :( and it was starting to get dark. We ended up finding a campsite at the north end of the park, they put the campground full sign up just after we came in. It sure was nice to put the tent up while it was still light out.

[IMG] photo P8120072.jpg[/IMG]

Odometer: Day: 224 miles Trip: 1244 miles


[IMG] photo day3.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:47 PM   #10
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 2
This story is lookin awesome!
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Old 03-11-2013, 06:56 PM   #11
Dan Diego
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Joined: Dec 2010
Location: San Diego, CA
Oddometer: 1,085
Oh, boy....watching this one.
I have no interest in living a balanced life. I want a life of adventure.
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:10 AM   #12
Trygstad OP
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: SOCAL
Oddometer: 19
Day 4 Yellowstone NP to East Glacier

We got on the road as soon as the sun was coming up, we knew we had another long day ahead of us...

The sunrise was awesome due to all the smoke in the air from the fires.

[IMG] photo IMG_1098.jpg[/IMG]

The north end of Yellowstone was spectacular, I wish we would of had time to stop at Mammoth Hot springs they looked really cool as we were passing by.

We had to get a picture at the North entrance / exit to Yellowstone...

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After having breakfast just over the boarder in Gardiner MT we stopped for a picture. Just before the self timer on the camera took the picture, a deer walked right in front of the camera, almost got photo bombed hahaha.

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The ride to Livingston on the 89 was really nice. It follows pretty closely to the Yellowstone river. North of Livingston the road gets pretty strait and boring.

I remember being passed about 4 times by a group of bikes who would pull over and take pictures, have a sandwich and take a nap and then catch back up to us lol. Made me think about the story about the tortoise and the hair lol.

The Ural started to run a little ruff. Running pretty rich, it had been re-jetted by the previous owner for sea level conditions and I think that the altitude was starting to catch up to it. Cris and I pulled over next to a creek to take a look at the spark plugs.

Cris used some water from a near by creek to cool his air head before removing the spark plugs.

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Cris got really good at unloading and reloading the side car to get at his tool kit. BTW the stock tool kit that comes with the Ural is the best i have ever seen. Dont know if that is a good thing....or a bad

There must have been thousands of these butterflies / moths by the creek. This one has good taste choosing the GS gloves :)

[IMG] photo IMG_1111.jpg[/IMG]

Cris cleaned and re-installed the plugs and we were on our way again. We made it almost to Great Falls with the bike still not quite running right, when Cris ran out of gas on the side of the road, Luckily he carried two spare cans. After filling up the bike ran significantly better. Once in Great Falls MT where we tried again to find another set of Iridium plugs for is bike, checked 3 places with no luck. Had lunch and a fudge sunday at Dairy Queen, and Cris again checked the plugs and one side looked like it had cleared up...

Got gas and we were back on the road....for about two minutes. I was in the lead, got on the freeway and Cris was no where to be seen....where the heck was he? Did the bike break down? Did he get in an accident? I must have done 100 mph getting to the next exit and back to where we got on the freeway. Cris had forgotten to put the spout back on his spare gas can and lost it for a minute on the road.... phew everything was good but with all the stops during the day i was just waiting for something to happen.

Before we made it to Browning MT Cris had to stop and fill up from his jerry can....again. He was averaging under 21 MPG! I was getting over 70 mpg riding under 60 mph. I tried not to rub that in to Cris lol. It was starting to get pretty frustrating with the bike not running right.

We stopped again for gas in Browning. Very interesting place, lots of Native American poverty. Defiantly and eye opener for me.

Leaving Browning I had told Cris that his bike must be running rich. Rolling up a hill towards Glacier NP, Cris (while riding) pulled the air intake tubes off and took off! First time we went over 65 mph for the trip! Whooohooo!

Before I knew it we were pulling in to the Lodge at Glacier NP...

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Inside was awesome too!

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The lawn gave us a good work place to take a look at the air cleaner, we checked to see if it had gotten dirty or full of oil. It was pretty clean but we decided to swap it out for Cris' spare. Did not make much of a difference. The Air box on the Ural must weigh 10 lbs....effin nuts!

I wondering if the ride in this bike was kind of like the Ural.....hahaha

[IMG] photo P1010092.jpg[/IMG]

Nice sunset on the way to camp

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We headed to a KOA campground just outside of the entrance to Glacier.


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I was really surprised that there were no bear lockers in the campground, but they did have really nice hot showers (well over due!).

Had some dinner and crashed after a long day.

Odometer: Day: 403 ... Trip: 1647


[IMG] photo day4.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:25 AM   #13
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Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
Oddometer: 908
Great start, huh !?

You can keep all those scooters....give me the Airstream

Ged Schwartz
Kamloops , BC

Baja '05 , Baja 06/07 , Baja 08/09 , BC Alpine Single Track

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Old 03-12-2013, 12:52 AM   #14
Trygstad OP
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: SOCAL
Oddometer: 19
That is Cris' Avion. Pretty much his pride and joy, i dont think he would ever give that trailer up!
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:52 PM   #15
Trygstad OP
Joined: Aug 2012
Location: SOCAL
Oddometer: 19
Day 5 Glacier NP to Waterton AB

Woke up early this morning to the sounds of Cris tinkering with his bike. He was changing out the needles in his carbs (back to stock) to see if that would help with his bad gas mileage and poor performance. He wanted to change out the main jets as well but was a little nervous about messing the bowl seal up and not having a replacement.

After helping Cris get his bike back together, I grabbed my camera, hopped in the side car and we took a ride up the going to the sun road! What and great road, a must on everyone's bucket list.

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This guy was nuts!

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View at the Top

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The Ural ran a little better up the sun road but was not quite right yet. Riding in the side car is quite and interesting leap of faith. I think especially if you ride motorcycles. I had ridden monkey a few other times with Cris.

We headed back to the campground and I hopped out of the side car and back on to my bike. Soon we were heading towards the boarder. This is where we had our first close call of the trip. As we were looking for the turn to head north across the boarder, Cris chopped his throttle and I was daydreaming or something. I went zooming past him on the right. It was a good thing that we always ride staggered. Got my heart going that is for sure.

We made it to the boarder all in one piece :)

[IMG] photo P1010108.jpg[/IMG]

After we took the picture at the boarder Cris noticed that he was missing 200 bucks out of his zip lock bag where he had his passport. I told him it must have been in the passport when he handed to the guard, (why else would they have let us in to the country). Cris started to walk back to the boarder but just before he got there I found the money wedged between his caliper arm and the wheel. Good thing we found it, especially with the kind of gas mileage Cris was getting lol.

We could see our next stop! Waterton!

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When we saw the sign for deer in the road, i did not expect them to be this big!

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The places we saw on this trip just kept getting more and more spectacular!

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The Prince of Wales Lodge

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The view from inside......was breathtaking.

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After we did some sightseeing, we changed the oil on the Ural...Then Cris decided to pull the bowls off and change the main jets out (no guts no glory right). A few of the bowl screws were pretty hard to get out, we had to use vice grips to get them out. After the needle change in the morning and the main jet change in the evening the bike ran completely better!

[IMG] photo IMG_1408.jpg[/IMG]

We decided to take the new hot-rod out for another spin, up the red rock parkway for a little hike. It was nice to be off the bikes for an afternoon and walk around a bit.

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Just as we finished our hike a storm started to move in, and move in fast!

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We made it back to camp just as the rain started to come down. A really nice group of bicycle riders had covered Cris' tools and gear before we got back :) We waited out some heavy rain in the tents and when it started to let up we ran in to town for some pizza and beer It was time to celebrate our trip thus far and getting the Ural back in good running order.

Cris isn't much of a drinker so I had to finish most of the pitcher by myself....oh darn lol

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The pizza was really good especially compared to the dinty moore stew from the night before. On the way back from dinner it started raining buckets. We ran back to the tents and each grabbed a motorcycle magazine. After almost a pitcher of beer I fell asleep pretty fast :) It rained all night but our tents stayed dry.

Odometer: Day: 98 Miles.....Trip: 1745


[IMG] photo Day5.jpg[/IMG]
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