ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Trials
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-15-2012, 03:42 PM   #1
Mike D OP
Corporate Cog
 
Mike D's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Location: Conifer, CO
Oddometer: 1,312
Disappearing Friction Zone

'08 GG TXT 280 Pro

When I first start the bike and the transmission is cold, the clutch feels great; smooth engagement and a nice big friction zone. As the transmission warms up, the friction zone gets smaller and smaller, until the clutch lever is like a light switch; fully engaged or fully disengaged, no friction zone at all.

I run Type F fluid, and I change it about every 8 hours (350cc). Didn't have this problem early in the season, but over the past couple weeks it has become very pronounced, to where it takes less than 1/2 hour for the friction zone to completely disappear.

Worn out clutch plates?
__________________
"There are dreams of love, life, and adventure in all of us. But we are also sadly filled with reasons why we shouldn't try. These reasons seem to protect us, but in truth they imprison us. They hold life at a distance. Life will be over sooner than we think. If we have bikes to ride and people to love, now is the time." -Elisabeth Kubler-Ross (1926-2004)

Help keep our trails open; join COHVCO
Mike D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2012, 06:02 PM   #2
lineaway
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Location: nm
Oddometer: 2,146
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
'08 GG TXT 280 Pro

When I first start the bike and the transmission is cold, the clutch feels great; smooth engagement and a nice big friction zone. As the transmission warms up, the friction zone gets smaller and smaller, until the clutch lever is like a light switch; fully engaged or fully disengaged, no friction zone at all.

I run Type F fluid, and I change it about every 8 hours (350cc). Didn't have this problem early in the season, but over the past couple weeks it has become very pronounced, to where it takes less than 1/2 hour for the friction zone to completely disappear.

Worn out clutch plates?
I would look at your adjustment at the master cylinder after it is hot! Warn plates should not be like a light switch.
lineaway is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 09:08 AM   #3
Sting32
Trials Evangelist
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Minneapolis, Ks
Oddometer: 1,251
Quote:
Originally Posted by lineaway View Post
I would look at your adjustment at the master cylinder after it is hot! Warn plates should not be like a light switch.
I think Lineaway is right, what is weird to me is, that plain old ATF IMHO makes the clutch a light switch, only in comparison I guess, to what I use (5w30).

For one thing: if you have no "free play" your clutch can and will change "where it engages" because the hydraulic/or if you will mineral oil, in the clutch expands slightly, and any air bubbles can expand when warmed up. if you have no free play at the lever (lever moves before the plunger (not the springed pre plunger) moves, you can have a situation that the pressure never bleeds off... Air that is trapped maybe also can cause the lever to have no FEEL, as well. But, usually if the clutches master cylinder can get a relief or a "sip" of fluid, but it can only happen when the plunger extends all the out to the circlip on the master cylinder. FWIW Dirt and stuff can cause this to happen if there is "mechanical" at the lever, free play. IMHO after a few years of lots of use, you might be due for a master cylinder kit as well... Change your fluid at least yearly, I think my mechanic buddy says I should do it more often.

there could be more things, you might need to find someone near you who knows what all to check right quick.

and, if you like different clutch engagement "feel" maybe do like I have, try use a different oil or brands?
Sting32 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 09:38 AM   #4
Mike D OP
Corporate Cog
 
Mike D's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Location: Conifer, CO
Oddometer: 1,312
Thanks for the direction guys - I'll check out the adjustment at the master cylinder, and well as change the fluid.

I did adjust the lever a month or so ago so that the engagement point was closer to the grip. I adjusted it by simply turning the screw that moves the lever, but didn't adjust the all-thread that connects with the plunger. So, the plunger never completely retracts. The clutch still fully disengaged, so I didn't think it was a big deal - - I think that might be my problem.
__________________
"There are dreams of love, life, and adventure in all of us. But we are also sadly filled with reasons why we shouldn't try. These reasons seem to protect us, but in truth they imprison us. They hold life at a distance. Life will be over sooner than we think. If we have bikes to ride and people to love, now is the time." -Elisabeth Kubler-Ross (1926-2004)

Help keep our trails open; join COHVCO
Mike D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2012, 01:17 PM   #5
Sting32
Trials Evangelist
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Minneapolis, Ks
Oddometer: 1,251
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
Thanks for the direction guys - I'll check out the adjustment at the master cylinder, and well as change the fluid.

I did adjust the lever a month or so ago so that the engagement point was closer to the grip. I adjusted it by simply turning the screw that moves the lever, but didn't adjust the all-thread that connects with the plunger. So, the plunger never completely retracts. The clutch still fully disengaged, so I didn't think it was a big deal - - I think that might be my problem.
Could be it . what I also notice is that you can and will probably need to adjust the "Adjuster bolt" that stops the lever travel, that makes it farther to reach the lever... I have mine out there a ways, but it is COMFY to me, bigger handed people might like it further, plus it makes it easier to get some free play, when all else is like you like it. We're talking millimeters so adjust at will... just make sure you have free play, that is the reason most have trouble with Hydraulic "anything" on our trials bikes...

Good luck.
Sting32 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 10:44 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014