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Old 09-28-2012, 02:27 PM   #16
GreaseMonkey
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I think Benesesso means that you should put the locktite on the shaft instead of the set screw if the shaft still slips after you replace the grub screws (love that term!) with bolts.
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Old 09-28-2012, 03:06 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey View Post
I think Benesesso means that you should put the locktite on the shaft instead of the set screw if the shaft still slips after you replace the grub screws (love that term!) with bolts.
Yup. While waiting for Dirty-Sanchez to provide the official recommendation, I'd make sure the shaft, cam and screws were real clean. Then use Loctite's high strength retaining compound and the red "Stud Lock" on the screws.

Either that or some high strength epoxy.
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Old 09-28-2012, 06:42 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAB View Post
There is a square key on it already with one of the set screws on top of it to clamp it.
Thought about drilling and tapping one more hole for a set screw and drilling a matching divot into the shaft for the screw to catch.
Keep it coming.
I think it's gib keys that have a slight taper. Knurled cup setscrews hold very well, drilling and tapping the end of the shaft for a washer works if you have room.
3 setscrews isn't unheard of, ran in and out until they dig in and stay tight, as mentioned loctite will help a sloppy fit.
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Old 09-28-2012, 10:54 PM   #19
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try the locklite, if that don't do it, what I wound do is drill a hole down between the shaft and the cam, tap it for something like a 1/4" or 5/16" bolt and then run a grade 8 bolt into the hole. the shaft and the cam each get half the bolt. obviously the cam needs to be in the right place.
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Old 09-29-2012, 05:18 PM   #20
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With the setscrew you have in there, you're torque limited because the hex socket isn't supported by the threaded hole and will break apart if too much torque is applied. Headless set screws should always be flush with the surface or below it. I'd be inclined to drill a deep dimple in the shaft and then use a hardened Unbrako or Allen brand hardened allen head capscrew with a point ground on it to match the dimple, using a locknut, red loctite and sufficient torque.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:47 PM   #21
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The verdict

First off, thanks to all for the ideas and support.
Did the repair on Monday and the cam has not moved. Original plan was to replace both set(grub)screws with grade 8 hex bolts and jamb nuts. Due to tight clearances I was only able to replace the larger bolt and left the screw on the key as it was. Also used some Loctite retaining goo on the shaft. The hex bolt made a big difference in the amount I was able to tighten it. Has a good bite on the shaft now. If it were to move again I would consider one of those pointed bolts with a divot drilled into the shaft. So we're back up and running and all is well in printing land once again.
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:46 PM   #22
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set screw

Look up dog point set screw for a simple fix.
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