How big of a waste of time was that?

TheOtherBart · 10-09-2012, 12:00 PM

So the hard brake lines going to the back of my truck just completely rusted away and had to be replaced. Instead of dicking around trying to snake lines I decided to go ahead and pull the bed, drop the tank, and replace everything. For being a 15 year old truck I was pleasantly surprised by the condition of the frame and everything, but there was some rust. Since I plan on keeping this truck forever, I decided to do something about it.

Of course since I wasn't stripping the frame bare there was only so much prep I could do. The rust I could get to I hit with a wire wheel, wiped everything down with mineral spirits, hit most of the bare metal with primer, then went nuts with satin black rattle cans.

I know that rust which isn't removed completely will just continue to grow right under the paint, and I know there was plenty that I couldn't or didn't remove, but I looked at it like the pullout method of rust abatement...it may not be all that effective, but it's got to be better than nothing. It's done now, but I'm curious to hear just how effective or helpful people think it might have been.

seuadr · 10-09-2012, 12:12 PM

why didn't you use etching primer and/or a rust encapsulator instead of regular paint?

Lee C · 10-09-2012, 12:25 PM

What make of truck

Sniper X · 10-09-2012, 12:46 PM

Yes, why not POR 15?

TheOtherBart · 10-09-2012, 01:00 PM

That might have been better, but I'm not completely convinced. The instructions say that it isn't to be applied over existing paint, and there's no way I could have gotten it on all the rusty spots without getting it on the paint, and stripping the paint wasn't an option for the same access reasons that grinding all of the rust out wasn't possible.

It would have cost a lot more too when you figure the POR and the required topcoat. Not really a dealbreaker, but it's something.

KSJeff · 10-09-2012, 01:07 PM

POR 15 only requires a topcoat when exposed to UV light (the sun). Has that changed? I've done several Chevelle frames with Por15 but that's been 10 years ago and they still look great.

discochris · 10-09-2012, 09:42 PM

I used Zero-Rust on the frame of my 66 Ford, and it's still holding up well 8 years later.

I painted a trailer this summer with POR 15. We'll see how it holds up. Personally I like the Zero-Rust product better, but I've only found it mail order, while you can get POR products at some retailers (though very few that I've found).

TheOtherBart · 10-10-2012, 07:04 AM

With POR what about the issue of existing paint?

And honestly, I know what I did was sub-optimal. I guess what I'm curious to see over time is on a scale of 1 (do nothing) to 10 (strip the truck to the bare frame, sandblast, powdercoat, live happily ever after) whether what I did is closer to a 1 or a 5. Wondered what the inmate experience has been.

Sniper X · 10-10-2012, 08:12 PM

everything depends on conditions as far as lasting goes. Here in the land of no water or moisture, where we have to look up rust in on the google to see what it looks like, you could paint a frame with water paint and go back ten years later and it would be rust free. I (since of where I live) paint frames and all suspension parts after a deep degreasing or cleaning with standard rustolium satin colors since it seems to keep grunge off better than flat or even gloss colours.

10-09-2012, 12:00 PM	#1
TheOtherBart ^OP Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jan 2006 Location: DeKalb County, Illinois Oddometer: 1,462	How big of a waste of time was that? So the hard brake lines going to the back of my truck just completely rusted away and had to be replaced. Instead of dicking around trying to snake lines I decided to go ahead and pull the bed, drop the tank, and replace everything. For being a 15 year old truck I was pleasantly surprised by the condition of the frame and everything, but there was some rust. Since I plan on keeping this truck forever, I decided to do something about it. Of course since I wasn't stripping the frame bare there was only so much prep I could do. The rust I could get to I hit with a wire wheel, wiped everything down with mineral spirits, hit most of the bare metal with primer, then went nuts with satin black rattle cans. I know that rust which isn't removed completely will just continue to grow right under the paint, and I know there was plenty that I couldn't or didn't remove, but I looked at it like the pullout method of rust abatement...it may not be all that effective, but it's got to be better than nothing. It's done now, but I'm curious to hear just how effective or helpful people think it might have been.

10-09-2012, 12:46 PM	#4
Sniper X De Oppresso Liber Joined: Jul 2006 Location: Central New Mexico, 7420ft above sea level Oddometer: 30,423	Yes, why not POR 15? __________________ "I claim to be frightened of horses but do so only to get out of attending parades. It's peculiar but ...it works. The Horses get it. RESISTANCE IS NOT FUTILE. IT'S VOLTAGE DIVIDED BY CURRENT

10-10-2012, 08:12 PM	#9
Sniper X De Oppresso Liber Joined: Jul 2006 Location: Central New Mexico, 7420ft above sea level Oddometer: 30,423	everything depends on conditions as far as lasting goes. Here in the land of no water or moisture, where we have to look up rust in on the google to see what it looks like, you could paint a frame with water paint and go back ten years later and it would be rust free. I (since of where I live) paint frames and all suspension parts after a deep degreasing or cleaning with standard rustolium satin colors since it seems to keep grunge off better than flat or even gloss colours. __________________ "I claim to be frightened of horses but do so only to get out of attending parades. It's peculiar but ...it works. The Horses get it. RESISTANCE IS NOT FUTILE. IT'S VOLTAGE DIVIDED BY CURRENT

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10-09-2012, 12:12 PM	#2
seuadr Wee-stromer Joined: Aug 2009 Location: Eaton Rapids,mi Oddometer: 273	why didn't you use etching primer and/or a rust encapsulator instead of regular paint?

10-09-2012, 12:25 PM	#3
Lee C Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Feb 2009 Location: Ontario Canada Oddometer: 443	What make of truck

10-09-2012, 01:00 PM	#5
TheOtherBart ^OP Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jan 2006 Location: DeKalb County, Illinois Oddometer: 1,462	That might have been better, but I'm not completely convinced. The instructions say that it isn't to be applied over existing paint, and there's no way I could have gotten it on all the rusty spots without getting it on the paint, and stripping the paint wasn't an option for the same access reasons that grinding all of the rust out wasn't possible. It would have cost a lot more too when you figure the POR and the required topcoat. Not really a dealbreaker, but it's something.

10-09-2012, 01:07 PM	#6
KSJeff Yea, I'll go Joined: Jun 2010 Location: Andover, Ks. Oddometer: 97	POR 15 only requires a topcoat when exposed to UV light (the sun). Has that changed? I've done several Chevelle frames with Por15 but that's been 10 years ago and they still look great.

10-09-2012, 09:42 PM	#7
discochris Studly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2007 Location: Sometimes the Twin Cities, Sometimes NW Wisconsin Oddometer: 941	I used Zero-Rust on the frame of my 66 Ford, and it's still holding up well 8 years later. I painted a trailer this summer with POR 15. We'll see how it holds up. Personally I like the Zero-Rust product better, but I've only found it mail order, while you can get POR products at some retailers (though very few that I've found).

10-10-2012, 07:04 AM	#8
TheOtherBart ^OP Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jan 2006 Location: DeKalb County, Illinois Oddometer: 1,462	With POR what about the issue of existing paint? And honestly, I know what I did was sub-optimal. I guess what I'm curious to see over time is on a scale of 1 (do nothing) to 10 (strip the truck to the bare frame, sandblast, powdercoat, live happily ever after) whether what I did is closer to a 1 or a 5. Wondered what the inmate experience has been.