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Old 09-11-2012, 02:52 PM   #1
moosnutz OP
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Exhaust install - Any tips?

Hey Gents - Getting ready to install some Leo Vince cans on the bike. Any tips I should be aware of beforehand for making it go smoothly? Also, can't seem to get the baffles out. Do I risk damage to them (or the cans) by sticking a dowel through the opposite end & giving a quick whack?


Should I use anti-seize on all fasteners?
Should I use hi-temp silicone gasket anywhere?
FWIW, I plan to loosen-up the subframe for easier access

I've read through all of the exhaust threads but most seem to focus on specific questions, not a general procedure (if that makes any sense).

Thnx in advance,
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Old 09-11-2012, 02:59 PM   #2
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Just bolt the thing on and check for airleaks.

The baffels should be easy to remove, take out the screws and grab them with needle nose pliers.
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Old 09-11-2012, 09:53 PM   #3
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A cheap slide hammer from harbor freight has just the right tip to stick into the baffle to catch the rear lip. If not fab up a big hook to get behind it then tap it out. Mine would have been destroyed with pliers but it poped right out with the right tool.
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:35 AM   #4
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Leo cans typically have a rubber grommet over the screw that needs to be removed prior to removing the baffles. Take rubber grommet out, then remove allen screw holding the baffles in place, next take a wooden broomhandle and gently tap the baffles out.
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Old 09-12-2012, 07:26 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DragonsTailR1 View Post
Leo cans typically have a rubber grommet over the screw that needs to be removed prior to removing the baffles. Take rubber grommet out, then remove allen screw holding the baffles in place, next take a wooden broomhandle and gently tap the baffles out.
Yep, got the grommet and set screw out but the baffle absolutely will NOT budge. I'll try the broomhandle trick,
thanks.

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Old 09-12-2012, 10:23 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Katoom72 View Post
Just bolt the thing on and check for airleaks.

The baffels should be easy to remove, take out the screws and grab them with needle nose pliers.
+1

Wait till you get everything bolted up tight, grab with a good pair of needlenose....and wiggle. If that doesn't work keep wiggling. If that doesn't work. Get em hot and then wiggle some more.
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Old 09-12-2012, 12:51 PM   #7
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Here was my install

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=295550

I have since put in the new version with the two piece mid pipe what a difference that made.

Using the pliers on the baffle were necessary to get them out, then I put anti seize on them before sticking them back in (actually put in the spark arrestors in their place).

Hope it helps.

Also loosening the sub-frame will get you that extra inch of space that may come in handy.
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Old 09-12-2012, 03:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moosnutz View Post
Yep, got the grommet and set screw out but the baffle absolutely will NOT budge. I'll try the broomhandle trick,
thanks.

Try rotating the baffle as you are pulling.
I reckon once you break it loose just a bit it'll come out easily.

I used a piece of leather under the needlenose jaws to get a better grip.
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Old 09-13-2012, 07:18 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSM8 View Post
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=295550

I have since put in the new version with the two piece mid pipe what a difference that made.

Using the pliers on the baffle were necessary to get them out, then I put anti seize on them before sticking them back in (actually put in the spark arrestors in their place).

Hope it helps.

Also loosening the sub-frame will get you that extra inch of space that may come in handy.
Excellent, thanks! Did you order the spark arrestors directly from LV?
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Old 09-13-2012, 08:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moosnutz View Post
Excellent, thanks! Did you order the spark arrestors directly from LV?
They came with the new cans and have the USFS Sticker too
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:54 PM   #11
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How about anti-seize? I was planning to lightly coat all fasteners. Also, should I use some hi-temp silicone gasket anywhere, or should I be good to go without? Just want to have all my bases covered BEFORE I dive in.

Thnx!
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:27 PM   #12
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tips

I use (Loctite or Permatex)copper-based anti-seize on all fasteners, esp the parts that are exposed and will swell with rust so when you gotta take it all apart later, problems...

Also, in all exhaust installs, I loosen everything from header to muffler clamps and wiggle & snug things bit by bit- many times something is rotated (easy with our front cylinder header) and things don't line up like they should.

By (pre-)relieving all the stress, your exhaust system won't develop cracks (also common on our front headers- any connection?) and will stay tight, longer.

They also don't "pink" as much as they cool down and contract- which to me means things aren't under stress trying to relieve themselves.
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:29 AM   #13
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Update

Got the exhaust on (finally). Install was a snap - took a little over 2 hours total (first exhaust install), including removing plastic/bits. Everything lined-up/fit perfectly & there was no hassle at all. Couldn't be happier. The LV One cans sound GREAT (running without the baffles) and look awesome! If I had one small complaint it would be that the carbon fiber exhaust hangers are ever-so-slightly rough on the edges, creating some splinters that like to find their way into the palm of your hand. No biggie, really. I was expecting not to like the polymer end caps too much but they actually look really good and compliment the system nicely. I would HIGHLY recommend Leo Vince. Less weight, better sound and they run much cooler. I can actually place (and leave) my hands on the cans after a 'spirited' 30-min ride!

I did the 15 min idle reset & everything seems to be good to go. I did notice, however, that there is a little popping/belching if I roll-off the throttle from about 6K RPMs. Not too bad, but enough to notice.

I'm going to rent some studio A/V equipment to get a proper sound byte. Stay tuned!
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